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  1. A brief introduction - This is not my first kit but, the first attempt I feel confident in showing to others. As mentioned in other posts on this Forum there is a lot of plywood and coarse grained timber planking supplied. Also some good quality fittings so overall I am happy with materials and plans supplied (I also have plenty of research material and, a well stuffed spares box). Assembled keel. Very slight warp which will ease into position later.Supplied stem, rudder and stern (poor plywood) being replaced with 5mm lime sheet from spares box. I intend fixing these pieces to keel before ribs and lower deck are fitted.
  2. Hello, I found this little cutie and decided to build her as escape from big and complicated ships. She looks like isn't popular kit and I wonder why? I realized that I very like look of lateen rigged vessels and she was smaller from Chebec which will be definitely a few months build. Here I will add to the San Juan probably 2 swivel guns as this ship wasn't big and maybe I'll paint her. I have big urge to made single plank with mathematic calculations - this seems as very big challenge and as San Juan has lenght of biggest frame about 70mm it will not require many 5mm width planks to fit. So far I've made skeleton and planked deck. During previous months I made such frigate - Nuestra Senora de las Mercedes.
  3. Hey everyone, so it seems like there are several HMS Beagle build logs all of a sudden. I had planned on writing up my own once the hull was completed and we are pretty close now (been building for 5 months, just need to finish up the deadeyes), so I thought I'd start to write up some of the earlier stages as well as outline what I'm going for with this build. So, I am currently a third year uni student studying Biochemistry and Biology and as a result, Charles Darwin and the HMS Beagle are very close to my heart and is partly what got me into this hobby. I've done a build log on my first ship, HMS Bounty's Launch, which I started with my Dad in around 2011 before leaving it on a shelf for 9 years. I've also built the USS Albatros to try and familiarise myself with OcCre kits and develop my skills for the big one (the Beagle). I'm going to try to build the ship as accurately as I can with a few exceptions. I have managed to obtain a copy of the Anatomy of the Ship book for the Beagle and will be making some modifications to the model accordingly. Some parts are out of scale (deck planks and a few others), but I'll just have to live with that. The biggest modifications I will be making include coppering the hull, folding actual fabric hammocks and scratch building 3 additional small boats (A yawl and two 28 ft whaleboats) to better reflect the real ship. Also I'll try to make my own sails when I get there, but I have a feeling that is still a little way off. For the colour scheme, I have been inspired by this particular build on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYRfDE8_1vM&t=526s I really like the darker colours on the wooden parts even if it may not be accurate. There is also the replica in Chile and a virtual tour on youtube as well https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTo1X9EzFDQ. It seems like the internal bulwarks would have been painted white. I will not be doing this purely for aesthetic reasons. So far I've been enjoying the build even if it has been quite challenging. The hardest part by far was the coppering, I'll go into more detail later, but I've given it a patina and it took some trial and error to get that right. It was also a bit tricky to lay all the tiles without disturbing the patina too much. There have been a few major instances where I've had to redo things, but I feel that it has always been for the better. So anyway, here goes, these are the first couple of pictures I have. I've been taking lots of photos (597 is the current count) and should be able to outline the process pretty well, even if it was a while ago now.
  4. Hello, and welcome to my second build log in the MSW forums. The Ship The ARM Cuauhtémoc BE-01 is the Mexican Navy’s sail training ship. Her keel was laid in 1981, and she is still in service, sailing around the world every year in cruceros de instrucción—the last phase of the cadet training program which requires at least 20,000 nautical miles on board. She is also known as the Ambassador of the Seas and the Knight of the Ocean, and in her many years of service she has frequently participated in sailing races and other international events. Her mission and motto is “the exaltation of seamanship spirit”. The ARM Cuauhtémoc is named after the last emperor of the Mexícatl Empire (otherwise known as the Aztecs) of central Mexico, tortured and murdered by the Spaniards after the fall of his nation. To this day, he is honored and recognized and Cuauhtémoc is still a popular baby name in Mexico. Cuauhtémoc is a steel-hulled tall ship with a single-propeller auxiliary engine. Her sail plan is that of a bric-barca (three-masted barque). Her crew is comprised of 186 including officers, and up to 90 cadets. The Man I have extensively researched for this project. My sources range from informal chats with the ship’s crew and officers all the way to the Veracruz Naval Museum and the Secretariat of the Navy. All photographs in this log are my own, be it the real ship or the model. Over the last five years I have had the pleasure and honor to be on board the Cuauhtémoc several times, and I have witnessed various official events and ceremonies. On my seventh time aboard I got this coin from the crew. The Plan This is a 1:100 scale model kit of limited edition sold by Salvat and designed and manufactured by OcCre. It is based on the design and plans of the Deutsche Marine Gorch Foch. Like the real-life counterpart, both ships share the same heritage and blueprints. Among their notable relatives are the USCGC Eagle and the NE Sagres III. ARM Cuauhtémoc’s sister ships are ARC Gloria, BAE Guayas and ARBV Simón Bolívar. I am following the provided instructions around 50% of the time. The kit is really lacking in some aspects, and the instructions themselves are sometimes vague or ambiguous, sometimes inconvenient and sometimes outright wrong. It appears as if it was not thoroughly researched. In this respect, the similarities to the Gorch Foch show up and are not welcome. In order to keep this project as authentic as possible, a fair amount of kitbashing and adapting might be necessary.
  5. Boa noite a todos, Hello everyone, i'm starting the Polaris, the first model ship in this hobby. I made my presentation some months ago and todat i decided to start working on this project. Step by step. There are many Polaris sailing in this forum and this one is going to be part of it hehe. I already made the first progress. In the last picture, nothing is glued. Only for the photo. 😎
  6. Hello everyone, This will be my second build log on MSW, now for the Occre Corsair! I saw this kit selling for a very good price and decided to snag one while I could. This will be my first actual ship, since the other kits I have built have been much smaller boats. I think this kit will be a good intermediate level build, since it only has two masts and the build does not seem overly complicated. Looks like a good opportunity to try planking and rigging for a larger and more complex subject. Plus, as far as I can tell, it is a fictional ship so I do not have to worry about being accurate with every detail. Plus, it's a pirate ship! So let's get started.... First up was to unbox the kit and sort/inventory everything. The blocks and deadeyes are made of plastic, but I think they will look quite good in the end. The metal castings look well done and it does not seem that there will be all that much cleanup required. I am less thrilled about the rigging thread, it seems to have quite a lot of fuzz and I do not really like the color of the lighter line. That will be simple enough to replace when I get to the rigging later down the road. I marked the laser-cut pieces with their numbers as suggested by the instructions.. Next all the wood strips were sorted (there sure are a lot): Next I removed all the bulkheads and cleaned off the char from gluing surfaces as best I could. The larger laser-cut pieces are just plywood and the charred edges are very rough so this took quite a bit of filing but I think I have removed enough for glue to hold well enough. After dry-fitting everything a few times, I glued the bulkheads onto the spine one at a time, using the deck to hold them in place while the glue set to make sure they are lined up correctly. The deck is already sort of warped in the correct direction along the spine, but it is also curving upwards athwartships. It does not seem so stiff that it will need to be soaked to flatten it; I think the curve is small enough that if I glue it to the tops of the bulkheads strategically it will be fine. However that also means I will want to glue it to the ship before doing the deck planking so that it will be flat... I do not think I will have major problems with that strategy but we will see how it goes. While all that set, I decided to try planking the poop deck. Using this link for reference: http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Deck_PlankingIIbuttshifts.pdf I chose the "Every 5" strategy which means the plank ends are staggered like this: I picked a 120mm plank length (scaled up that's about 31.5 ft, for us Yanks). The edges of the planks are marked with pencil to darken the joints. Cutting, marking the edges, and gluing was surprisingly time-consuming for such a small part. Once they were all glued on I used a razor saw and files to trim the edges. I like the result. I am not sure whether to sand it to even out the seams, I am worried that sanding would remove some of the pencil shading as it is mostly on the corners of the pieces. In any case I am thinking I should put on a single light coat of Wipe-On Poly so that I can lightly knock down the grain after the first coat, since that will probably be much more difficult once it is on the model and more assembly is done.
  7. while i am still working on my HMS Terror i could not resist buying/ starting this one. Have had an interest in Endurance since first reading about Shackletons exploits and seeing the footage of the ships destruction in the pack ice. There is an excellent review of the kit on this forum and as it mentions some upgrading will be needed to make it more accurate. so far have got her as far as the first planking stage (i planked from the midship ply former down tapering planks right from the start at the bow then planked upwards) . I must admit what a joy planking this hull after occres Terror! i also did not plank the decks yet as opposed to instructions , i will drill and dowel the decks formers in place and sand down before decking is added for extra strength in the hull. Keith
  8. Well, having finished Occre's Polaris I had already decided to make the Golden Hind next. Looking at the available kits I eventually chose the Occre as I had found the Polaris kit and instructions easy to follow and I preferred the lack of guns on the main deck as I don't see how they could have recoiled in the available space. On opening the box the first thing that struck me was the ship's boat which is cast metal. I decided that it should be clinker built so set about improving it. I put rough floor planking in it and then decided that it would be more logical to have it on the deck upside down to keep the water out of it so turned it over and started planking... It's time consuming but hopefully the finished product will justify the work. I'll probably paint it white and put the thwarts in even though they won't be visible. The other things that I'm not happy with are the windows and doors. I've managed to get some imitation Tudor glass; although the scale is different (1:72) I think it will be close enough, and the doors will have to be scratch built. Fortunately I bought some spare wood during the Polaris build and I've got some left over brass wire. Work will be a bit patchy over the next few weeks but I hope to be finished before Christmas and I'll post at least any points of possible interest that I come across as I go
  9. So this is my first build of a legit model ship. I bought a Chinese knock off to make sure I would be into making a wooden model ship because I have done lots of car models as a kid but it's been 15 years since I did one. Either way looking forward to getting into this new hobby because I want a better outlet then video games and youtube because it's a waste of mental health. Either way hope everyone enjoys my log as much as I will and looking forward to sharing my experience with everyone!! P.S. props to OcCre for an amazing model kit with such detail in the instructions.
  10. Hi Guys, here goes, my first build log for what seems like a decades. Unfortunately I had already started the kit before coming home to M.S.W. The hull is almost completed with a bit more planking to be done, that is so different to what i'm used to, the first planking is really thick, I suppose because there's a lot of sanding to be done, the second planking is so different, it's almost like paper its that thin, so that was my first shock, my second was that all Blocks, Dead eyes are all made of plastic, they are all one size as well 4 mm so all will need replacing. The ropes are quite poor quality and so again all will need replacing, so a rope walk is on the menu ans also a rope server. With regard to the white metal parts again all will require a lot of working on or replacing, on a plus note the stand is nice. I went quiet on the Forum for a week or so because I was attempting to build a rope walk and server, I did end making them but they are of such a poor quality that I cant use them, while testing them I had to make so many running repairs it turned out to be a complete waste of time and money, one good thing is that I learned to duck quickly in order to miss the flying plates, not doing that again. So I will show a few photos so you can see my progress so far. Any and all comments good or bad are more than welcome. mobbsie
  11. Hello all, I'm working on my first build. I'm about half way through. I had been surfing the forums for advice, suggestions and to take a look at what others have built. I finally decided to join. First of all, I want to thank everyone here for sharing their knowledge and experience. I've found this site to be a great resource. Below are some pictures showing my journey. to attach, or choose files... Other Media I decided to bend the bulwark before lining them and gluing them to the hull. I had seen some videos and pictures where the bulwark cracks. I wanted to avoid that if I could. I then sanded the reinforcing chocks and frames. Below, I've attached the bulwarks. Like many other builds I've seen, they don't quite meet. However, in the pictures included in the instructions they meet perfectly. I'm not sure where I went wrong but I decided to continue and will fill it in with wood putty. Afterwards I lined the hull. I wasn't happy with how it was looking. I wasn't sure if it's supposed to be this rough. But I figured, I could always sand and fill, so I went ahead. I was concerned about how all the other parts would fit since even after sanding, it still looked really rough. a After more sanding and creating the 4mm flat surface for the keel, it started to look ok. From here, I lined the hull and glued the keel. I'm not completely happy with the lining, you can see some gaps. The varnish helps hide a lot of my mistakes and makes is look better. I deviated from the instructions. The instructions have you attaching the rails and deadeyes before all of the other structures on the deck. I decided not to. I saw the following picture from another post. I noticed that in some pictures, of the ship, they were incorrect. So I glued the rails but will hold off on the deadeyes and chain plates until I have the masts up and can line them up properly. I ended up breaking some rails. Very frustrating. I have an issue with OcCre's belaying pins. They tell you to drill a 1mm hole and, according to my caliper, the pins are >1.2mm. I tried to make the holes wider and I also shaved the pins so they were narrower. I finally got them to fit but, I had another issue. They are 8mm long. They were too short for the bow deck. Luckily, I was able to find some that were longer. Below is a picture of the bow. You can barely see the longer pins, at the bottom, that I replaced the 8mm pins with. I don't know how OcCre expects you to tie the ropes to the belaying pins when the 8mm ones they provide are way too short. Anyway, I went ahead and finished the structures on the deck. Next step is to do the masts. And, that is where I'm at now. You may notice that there are a few items missing. I'm waiting for paint and more belaying pins. I had just ordered 1 package to see if they worked. Now that I know they work, I've ordered a bunch more. 02MAY2021 I finished the Bousprit this morning. Since this was my first boat and all, I was so proud of myself. I was showing it off to my wife, again, so proud. I then placed it down and looked at the pictures in the instructions, then I saw it. You NUMB SKULL, you used the wrong thread! After another hour, I finished the Bousprit again. But, this time with the correct thread.
  12. The time has come to start a new project, while building Robert E Lee i've purchased the Santissima Trinidad from Occre, Occre sells the full kit and the kit divided in 6 packs, wich is what i have aqquired. I also got the Santissima Trinidad cross section kit that i intend to display together at the end and that i will include on this build log. At the moment the idea/goal is to make it heavy weathered, painted, and copper the hull, although plans are always subject to change, and i did considered several other approaches, this is at the moment the plan. As for the kit itself, the quality of the materials is overall good, but we all know that it is lacking in certain aspects, particularly the stern is really quite bad, and overall, it lacks details/decorations, as i go i'll try to adress some of this and hopefully improve on the kit a bit I've also decided to try something new, and i will try to make videos of the construction, here is my 1st attempt Unboxing packs 1 and 2 Hope you enjoy and give me some time to improve my video editing skills Hope you join me on this journey (loooooong journey)
  13. after seeing the hms terror build logs on here especially keith s build i made a start. have always had a fascination with the story of the north west passage and when occre released this it was a must despite the compromises with the kit. frames glued in place but deck still loose. also glued in the filling pieces between frames at bow and stern building slip to help keep the keel straight while planking don't know when next update will be as Victory taking priority at the mo! Take care all keith
  14. With the Santisima trinidad build finished It's time to start on the cross section, also a kit from occre I will be building it in the same style i've done the full ship, matching the weathering and overall look Kit will be bashed and several additions to hopefully improve it, many of those additions inspired on the @md1400cs build
  15. Hello my friends,i start today to build the kit of OCCRE "SAN ILDEFONSO" I have read the topic of another user that make the same and i am ready to proceed me too.. I upload fotos with the progress First open the box then preparing the tools The two parts of the keel..i put my phone near to realise the length of the kiel... final i glue the two parts of the keel... To be continued...
  16. Hi everyone, I'm building the OCCRE HMS Terror model. This is my first ship model, and I described the reasons for wanting to build her in my "new member" introduction. I'm actually a fair ways along with this model, but have reached the point where I have questions about details and Royal Navy standard practice from that era, in an attempt to make my model as accurate as I can. Also I see other people are building this model, and I hope to trade notes with them as I go along. I guess I'll make a series of posts to start off, to show the various stages I went through to get the model to the point she's currently at. I am trying to make some improvements to the basic kit: to this end I have done a bit of research and also received a bit of help from a friend who is very knowledgeable about ships, the Franklin ships in particular, and is very generous with his advice. My model will incorporate some of the things I've learned from photographs of the real ship as she lies today, the kit itself, and also the advice of my friend. Also I have read and re-read the excellent blog by a member of this forum on the subject of HMS Terror, which I will study closely and try to make modifications to the kit to try and emulate.
  17. Hi, I'm beginning to build the HMS Endeavour from OcCre. After preparing the bulkheads, the decks were planked. I tried the toothpick method for the trenails. Here ist my Progress so far: Fitting the decks to the framework: Meanwhile preparing the Lifeboat, which was actually quite challenging for me because I was trying to let all the planks run from stern to bow. Didn't work out perfect, but the finished thing still looks ok... Beginning of the first planking using paper strips for each bulkhead and planking fans to try and plan the tapering. Also using Chucks planking method. After a little learning curve, it worked quite well for me.
  18. Day 1 of my first build! Still have some cleaning up to do and sanding. I've seen quite a few others who started with the Albatros so I feel I'm in good company. This will be slow going as I'm facing a bust spring and summer, but I'm looking forward to getting into it. Thanks! Kramer
  19. ***OcCre - Cazador Jabeque / Xebec 1750*** Hello my friends, it's been a while since my last buildlog of Santa Maria Buildlog. Today I would like to present my new log of the Xebec Cazador of OcCre. As a child I was fan of the Redbeard comics, maybe known by some of you. Anyway, one of the titles was "Fight With The Moors" (1973) and describes a story of Moorish pirates who looted merchant ships in the Mediterranean sea. The ships they used were fast, agile and armed to the teeth Xebecs! In the story, ships were plundered, crew were killed, the ship burned to the ground and women were kidnapped and sold on the black market as slaves. It intrigued me because regular ships, even well armed were not capable to cope with these dangerous circumstances and the Xebec's with their ruthless crew were winning most of the fights. Ofcourse this Redbeard story was fiction but based on true events in that timeperiod. A different and dark time compare with today so to say. The Spanish Crown built Cazador mid 18th century to fight the Moors in the Mediteranean Sea. To me, this was the conclusion to take on this ship and build her myself. A beautifull representation of a Spanish Xebec in combat with the Moors is shown below. It's a picture of Ángel Cortellini Sánchez! Source: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:DonAntonioBarcelóConSuJabequeCorreoRindeADosGaleotasArgelinas.jpg OcCre - Ocio Creativo made a beautiful kitmodel but compare to reality it has some shortcomings. I'm not sure if I have the possibilities to change a couple of things, but we will see on the way. My workplace is the dining table in the dining room with only my handtools and hopefully a lot of creativity! ☺️ Some specifications of the kitmodel Ref: 14002 Scale: 1:60 Length: 860mm / 33.9 inches Height: 630mm / 24.8 inches Width: 160mm / 6.3 inches Chapter 1 - The Box and parts The boxart is pretty basic but neat and tidy. It looks like OcCre use the box design for almost all their models kits. A picture of the ship makes the difference and is a piece of paper which sticks to the box. It's the contents of the box that has my interest. Wel about the contents inside the box. All things are neatly packed and the milled wood looks all right. Not perfect or of the highest quality, but just fine. What bothers me are the plywood parts. Even the keel, transom parts are made of plywood and stained into a walnut color. I prefer walnut parts instead of stained plywood. Chapter 2 - A new beginning To me the scale of the ship and the less complexity of the model is ideal for the dining table situation. After modeling I can easily clean up the table and put the box, tools and the ship away for the next moment. After inspecting the parts, I start with numbering the plywood parts. After numbering the parts, I'll cut the parts out of the frame and dryfit the bulkheads. The plywood it very thin and brittle. The bulkhead fits nicely on the main plate of the ship. After putting some glue on the bulkheads, it's time to cut out the main deckplate. Hopefully this give the structure some rigidity and strength. Time to plank the deck. I choose a pattern and start laying the strips. Unfortunately the strips a not consistent in thickness and varies widely between 1 - 1,3mm. After a while... Job's done. Time to scrape the deck flush. Also the upper part of a bulkhead needs to be covered with the same strips but placed verticaly. At the aft of the ship, strips of veneer are placed horizontally. I bend the veneer with an iron so it follows the curve of the bulkhead. It's hard to do, but to me it looks a bit nicer instead of straight strips. Time to put another deck plate on the ship. Also this needs to be covered with some strips of wood...it's the same process as on the main deck. Well, it's a start so to say. I'll try to update once a week if possible. If you like to leave a comment, I'll appreciate it and please feel free to ask me any questions. See yah later! Peter
  20. Thought I'd throw my hat in to the growing number of logs for this ship - I guess the more the merrier! I'm a little late to start a log - I started building in late February doing 2-3hrs work most days. I would guess I've put in the best part of 100hrs so far. This is my very first wood model ship. I've done a lot of Metal Earth type models over the past year or so, including a few ships such as PieceCool's very decorative Wind Breaker and Black Pearl This has given me a lot of experience at working at a small scale so I hoped this skill-set would help with building a wooden ship. So decided to opt for an ambitious first build of the Beagle. The scientific significance of ship was also very appealing to me. This choice was also heavily swayed by the availability of OcCre's YouTube step by step build videos. And these have indeed turned out to be an invaluable resource. Here's another excellent online resource I found for visualizing the ship: https://www.cloudtour.tv/beagle/. There are some differences in the OcCre ship compared to the virtual model in the details - but the general layout out of both versions are very similar. I only have a few pics from early in the build, just after the first planking. As you can see in these pics I was concerned about being able to remove the pins after the glue had dried. So I made myself a whole bunch of small rectangular washers from cereal box cardboard. These worked really well - you could push the pins in all the way with a pin-pusher so it holds the wood down securely. Then when dry, the pins could be easily removed by sliding a flush cutter under the cardboard washer and pulling out. You'll also see in these pics I opted to go for the more traditional way of tapering the planks along the whole length rather than the way OcCre suggest of using full width planks then inserting triangular sections to fill the gaps. I'm not sure there is any advantage to my way over OcCre's way other than it may have given me more useful experience for future builds. For bending the planks I used one of these: https://www.agesofsail.com/ecommerce/amati-form-a-strip-am7381.html. In my research I've seen many people say not to use these - but I found them really useful and made bending the planks easy and quick. The only thing is you can't use them if the inside of the bend is going to end up visible as you end up with a bunch of indentations on the inside. For the deck planking and second hull planking I highly recommend the way they do it in the OcCre videos using contact cement. I was a bit nervous about using that method as I was afraid that as soon as I attached the plank it would adhere and would not be moveable to adjust and close gaps. But this is not the case - it does not adhere properly until you apply firm pressure, so it is easy to adjust just right, then when a section is complete just apply firm pressure with a rounded wooden object and everything will stick firmly. I used DAP Weldwood Contact Cement which worked great for this application. I did manage to put quite a major slice in my thumb with an Xacto knife due to a plank splitting when I was trimming the top edge flush with the deck - certainly learned my lesson to be more careful when making cuts like that. Fortunately didn't cut through any tendons so it's all good now other than a numb section due to cutting through a nerve. So skip forward a month and I'm now just before building the dinghies and long boats. I'm very pleased with how it has progressed. There were a few mistakes along the way which required some effort to rectify - but that's how you learn right? I did have an issue with my set in that it is short probably two lengths of the 1mm brass wire. I had to start substituting the 0.5mm and 1.5mm wire for some things, and some 1mm steel wire I had laying around for some parts that get painted. Talking of paint - I used Historic Ships brand Black and White paint for the hull. This gives a semi gloss finish which looks really nice. It does take about 3 or 4 coats to get a consistent finish, but it dries pretty fast. I also used Historic Ships Clear Satin varnish for everything that needs varnishing. This dries fast and is very quick to clean off brushes with water. For stain I used Minwax Dark Walnut and Red Mahogony, and more recently got some Red Chestnut which I prefer and used for later parts of the build (e.g. the deck house roofs). In hindsight I wish I had treated all the interior sapelli wood with the Red Chestnut as that would have given a nicer contrast. For all the black fittings I used matte acrylic paint, firstly because it only needs one coat to get a good finish, and second my understanding is that on small objects gloss does not look very realistic. For the cannons and figurehead I used a mix of matte black acrylic and Liquid Leaf Classic Gold. I actually mixed the paints together in various proportions to get the desired patina rather than using the black then gold method shown in OcCre's video. Then I used a very small amount of the semi gloss black dry brushed on top to get relief around the nooks. In the next pic you can see I had to substitute 1.5mm instead of 1mm brass wire for the axle on the central pin rail due to there not being enough 1mm in the set. Looks OK though I think. In the next pic you can see an issue with the foremast belaying pins. I spaced each set of three pins exactly as shown in the scale drawings in the instructions. But this makes them too close and each set of three pins will not insert all the way due to interference. I almost remade the whole piece but in the end just decided to put up with it. If you are building this ship I would suggest spacing these pins out slightly more than shown on the drawings. There a small gap between the keel and the hull that can be seen in the next pic. I should have spent more time test fitting and shaping the keel here. I was happy with how the wire bending went for the transom decorations, I think my Metal Earth experience helped here as you have to do a lot of careful forming and shaping of metal sheets. You can see here I did not sand down the internal support blocks at the stern on the starboard side enough. It wasn't clear in the instructions that they basically need to be sanded down to the width of the keel at the very back. Here you can see another mistake I made. The anchor wale on the port side shown here is correct. But compare it to the first pic, you'll see on the starboard side I accidently made it slope the other way, towards the back as you go down. It's one of those errors that no one viewing the model would ever spot as you never see both at the same time - but I know it's there, grrr! Another mistake I used the wrong thickness of wire for some of the wires that make up the bow (this is not why I am short on the 1mm wire though). Well that's it for now. I'll post further updates as progress is made.
  21. To quote one of my favourite movies:"Here we go again.." After building HMS Terror, I was completely hooked, and as Corona is still roaming the streets, I managed to get my hands on Frigate Diana, also by Occre. Here's some history I picked from the Occre site: "The frigate Diana was launched on the 10th of March 1792. It formed part of the series of frigates known as "Mahonesas", as they had been built in the city of Mahón.Thanks to its design, it could sail faster than its predecessors. It took part in the war against France along the Catalan coast although, during the war of Independence, its base was in Cadiz. As a member of the naval forces of Havana, it took part in battles against the corsairs in the Antilles and made various trips across the Atlantic. It was broken up in 1833 in the naval shipyard of Cartagena." Apologies, I did not make an unboxing video 🙂 , but I was a bit stunned at the amount of stuff in there, from the hull planking strips (long enough to cover the hull this time😄 )to dowels 10mm in diameter (Terror's thickest dowel was 6mm), to a 1:1 profile drawing of the entire ship, causing the Admiral to comment:"And where do you intend to put that?" Studying the plans, I luckily found a lot of techniques also used in Terror, but plenty of new stuff here as well: no hull paint to cover any second planking mistakes, much more detailed work on the bow and the deck. Pretty challenging for a newbie like me (again). So I took a deep breath, cleaned up the shipyard and got unpacking: Lesson learned from Terror, part 1: sand the deadwood before glueing the bulkheads: then dry fitting all bulkheads and check for issues. Nothing major, just bulkhead 2 misbehaving a bit, nothing some sanding couldn't fix. Then tried fitting both decks: Again, no major issues here, fits were spot on or close, no burn marks on the wood. And then, after second inspection, glue half of the bulkheads: And that's where we are today. Tomorrow the other bulkheads, and then on to deck planking 🙂 . Thnx for dropping by!
  22. I ordered my kit from Cornwall boats on Sunday, received a email yesterday from Fedex saying would be delivered on Thursday, received one today saying it was out for delivery. When it arrived I opened it up to check that all was ok to find I had 6 panels of wooden parts but 2 were the same and so one was missing. so have sent message to Occre.. Just realised that the photos I took are on the other pc so will add in a while. Currant build: Mississippi OcCre part built: London type B tram OcCre
  23. Hi everyone Been off forum for awhile as I hit a mental block with my Agamemnon build. Got to rigging stage and lost my get up and go. It will come back eventually. Meanwhile for a significant birthday (I can now get a bus pass) my family gave me vouchers for Cornwall Boats from which I bought the Occre Kit for the Spirit of Mississippi. A nice kit but with a few issues. A lot of the supplied metal parts required some work to fit (or the wood parts to make fit) like the window frames. The paddle hubs in particular needed drilled out to 6mm (supplied 4.5mm!!) see photo. Annoying. I also didn't like the pins to be used for railing supports. Hasn't taken too long to get to nearly complete (awaiting better looking rail supports). A few errors made such as assuming the precut slots for structure and deck were accurate but they were off by a couple of mm so later on in the build the external stiffening ribbing on the port (display) side had to be finessed. Enjoyable few weeks doing this and has resulted in getting some of my mojo back. Moving onto Occre cross section of Santimisa Trinidad next and then hopefully back to Aggie. As said nice kit but not sure about the historical accuracy (if any) of the model. Perhaps the title "Spirit.." gives that away. I installed some left over Christmas lights to provide internal illumination. It should display well. More photos later once paddle wheel and rigging complete. Day 1. Moving along nicely. Hull complete. Iplanked under the overhang deck rather than just painting it as given in the instructions. Getting gtehre but didn't notice that upper decks were ever so slightly off to one side. Built my own lower deck ladders as not enough metal parts provided. Also upper deck ladders finished with wood to covers the metal joins. Nearly there. Christmas lights working well. I also used eyelets in removable sections to give me something to grip with but will probably display with the interior exposed all the time. Very carefully drilling out paddle wheels to 6mm.
  24. ENDURANCE by OcCre 1/70 scale MSRP €159.95 Image courtesy of OcCre All images by author except where noted. Sir Ernest Shackleton’s Endurance scarcely needs an introduction to nautical history enthusiasts. Launched in 1912, two years later she set sail for Antarctica with Shackleton and 27 others aboard for what was intended to be a transcontinental crossing of Antarctica via the South Pole. Instead, Endurance became stuck in pack ice in January of 1915 and eventually sank the following November. In April of 1916, Shackleton and several crew members set off for South Georgia in one of Endurance’s boats. They reached the island two weeks later and crossed a mountain range to reach the island’s whaling station. A rescue party was sent to fetch Shackleton’s remaining crew. Miraculously, everyone survived. Endurance trapped in the ice. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia (public domain). Over the years, this forum has seen numerous folks pine for a kit of Endurance, and now OcCre has responded. The kit is in 1/70 scale and carries an MSRP of €159.95, which in today’s market has to be considered a bargain. I was very interested in doing this review because of the striking look of the prototype model, the fame of the subject, and the fact that the ship is not a man-of-war (hence no tedious cannon to rig) and carries a barkentine rig, which is one of my favorites. Let’s dive in, shall we? First Impressions Endurance was shipped by FedEx Economy and made the trip from Spain to South Carolina in one week. I was a bit alarmed to see that the exterior shipping box had one corner completely stove in – it had obviously been dropped from some height and landed directly on that corner. Opening the box revealed that the kit had been shipped sans packing material, which is not the greatest way to do business, IMO. However, the kit box was not damaged during transit, despite the smashed corner. I’ve never built an OcCre kit before, nor even seen one in person, but I liked the look of the kit box, with a nice shot of the prototype model and a window through which one can see the fittings box. On closer inspection, I discovered that the “box art” is actually a printed sheet that is glued to a generic box cover. I suspect that this is why OcCre kits aren’t built to any standard scale; like the old “yellow box” kits from Model Shipways, OcCre kits are probably built to whatever scale will allow the kit to fit into a standard-sized box – 1/70 scale in this case. Opening the box revealed that although some of the contents could slide around a bit, they had been taped, shrink-wrapped, and compartmentalized in such a way that any potential for damage was really rather slight. Paper Stuff: Plans and Instructions Someone unfamiliar with OcCre might initially be alarmed upon reading the instructions – there essentially aren’t any, at least not in written form. Apart from a single paragraph about what to do before starting assembly, the written instructions consist of one sheet (in a choice of languages). (Apologies for the purplish tint -- I'm limited by the capabilities of my photography equipment.) But have no fear! What the kit lacks in written instructions, it more than makes up for in photo instructions. And in addition, OcCre provides a series of online video tutorials for the kit, which you can preview here. Let’s look at some examples from the photo instructions. BTW, the instructions, as well as the drawings, are bound with only a couple of staples. It’s not high-quality binding, but it does allow everything to easily be laid flat by simply removing the staples. Here you can see that the photo instructions are very detailed; no step is left uncovered. You can also see that the construction method is typical plank-on-bulkhead, but there are some nice touches. The deck is planked in such a way that small slots are left on the underside; these fit over the ears on each bulkhead, so that the entire structure is strengthened and locked in place. The directions for planking present a Mastini-like simplified method, which can be forgiven considering that the hull is intended to be painted. Of note on this sheet is the kit’s method for dealing with the ship’s round stern; it is built up bread-and-butter style and sanded to the correct shape. Apart from decking and planking, nearly all of the ship’s upper works are built from laser-cut parts, rather like a large jigsaw puzzle. I believe that this, along with the simple rig and lack of armament, makes the kit doable for an intermediate builder. A last shot of the hull instructions, mainly to show the construction of the chainplates, which, surprisingly, are made from brown rigging cord. Drawings The kit includes a complete set of 1:1 masting and spar drawings, as well as a 1:1 set of sail drawings. The instructions for rigging consist of a separate set of drawings. Fine points of mast and spar construction are covered, with different drawings depicting standing rigging, running rigging, and belaying plan. Finally, the paper bits include a parts list, a key to the parts billets, and a color code for use with Vallejo paints and OcCre stains. Parts The various parts billets come in a shrink-wrapped bundle and consist of parts cut from walnut, plywood, or MDF. All of the billets arrived perfectly flat, the wood is of good quality, and the laser-cutting is very well done, with fine, sharp lines and minimal reverse-side charring. The walnut sheet includes parts for a display cradle. The shrink-wrapped bundle includes an etched brass sheet that includes ladders, recessed door panels, trailboards, and ship’s name. Two bundles of good-quality strip wood and one of strip wood and dowels are included; the strips are nicely dimensioned and free of fuzzy edges, and the dowels are straight. Fittings A single, compartmented plastic box contains the fittings. The box was taped to prevent its contents from spilling during shipment. The largest compartment contains a fret of PE brass parts, three spools of 0.50 mm brown cord, various diameters of brass wire, a flag, a sheet of acetate for glazing windows, and cast metal davits, anchors, and stocks. The castings are free of flash. Other wood or metal fittings include cast metal bollards, fairleads, cowl vents, rudder hardware, binnacles, ship’s wheel, propeller, wood and metal capstan and windlass parts, and brass chain. Again, the castings are of good quality. The rest of the fittings box is filled with garden-variety wood and metal parts: blocks, deadeyes, mast hoops, belaying pins, eyebolts, nails, etc. Finally, a sealed envelope contains the remaining seven spools of rigging cord (one brown, six tan), which I was surprised to discover were all of the same diameter (0.15 mm), and a full suit of pre-sewn sails. The sails have the usual sort of heavy seam stitching typically found on such items. I don’t particularly like them and would probably opt to replace them, but for someone not inclined to put in that sort of effort, they will certainly suffice. Overall Impressions The new OcCre Endurance is not what one would call a great kit, but it is by no means a bad kit either. OcCre have economized here and there, as evidenced by such things as off-the-shelf fittings, providing only two diameters of rigging cord, and supplying less-than-convincing pre-sewn sails. Cost-cutting measures such as these succeed in making the kit affordable -- after all, top-end kits usually fetch top dollar – or Euro – don’t they? In other respects the kit is quite good, e.g. the thorough photo instructions, good quality wood, and excellent laser cutting. As I said earlier, I believe this kit can be built by an intermediate builder, and it will undoubtedly produce a nice-looking model right out of the box. However, with a bit of extra research and some kit-bashing, I have no doubt that the kit could form the basis for quite an excellent model. For the price and for the generally good quality (not to mention the unique subject), if not for the level of detail, the OcCre Endurance can be recommended to any interested builder. Image courtesy of OcCre Image courtesy of OcCre Thanks go to OcCre for sending out this review example. Endurance may be purchased directly from OcCre or from one of their regional distributors.
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