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Found 16 results

  1. Hi and welcome to my build log for the Oseberg ship. This will be my first ship build so progress may be a bit slow 😅 Why the Oseberg ship? Simply because in spare time I do living history displays from the early medieval and have made replicas from the Oseberg burial so why not the ship. I've been looking at other build logs from Jack Panzeca , Von-Kossa and Jason Builder and I'm in awe of their work. Along the way I'll be making a few changes (such as the sail. Will be making one from wool as per the original) and hope they'll enhance the project.
  2. I just opened a box with a new kit from the Ukrainian manufacturer "Ships of Pavel Nikitin". And just delighted with it. The whole ship is made of different types of wood (alder, beech, walnut) and no plywood or MDF...
  3. 1:25 Drakkar ‘Oseberg’ Ships of Pavel Nikitin Catalogue # DROS002 Available direct for approximately £160 (7400 ₴) at time of writing History It is believed that the word “drakkar” originates from the Old Norse words “dreki” and “kar,” which mean “dragon” and “ship,” respectively. The warship acquired this name because the head of a dragon or another mythical creature (like Jormungandr) usually adorned the ship’s bow. The shape of the ship was also long and narrow, resembling a sea serpent. The Vikings constructed drakkars out of pine, oak, or ash wood. They used a special technique for splitting trees along the grain. They then watered the planks and held them above a fire to make them more flexible. The shipbuilders put the parts of the ship together with iron rivets and nails and bound them with cords and ropes. After that, they tarred the whole structure and caulked it by plugging holes and gaps and making the seams watertight. The sail was rectangular or square. It was made of sheep’s wool and covered with grease so that it didn’t get drenched. If there wasn’t a fair wind, the Vikings used oars – 20 to 35 pairs of them. In the Viking age, few ships could compete with a drakkar in terms of sheer speed, but drakkars were also very nimble. Thanks to the drakkar’s shallow draft, the Northmen could easily sail along rivers and fjords. They could land in places that were very difficult to access and attack their enemies unexpectedly. These warships were also barely visible between the waves because of their low sides. This helped the Vikings catch their enemies unawares, even in the open sea. Drakkars were created for more than just war, however. They were solid and capacious, so the Vikings sometimes used them for trade and to transport goods, but more often these ships were used for sailing long distances. How far did the Vikings travel? They reached the shores of Iceland, Greenland, and North America, to name but a few destinations. (Abridged from Vikings: War of Clans) The kit We’ve not exactly been awash with good kits of what we would call a typical Viking drakkar, or ‘longship’ as it’s more commonly known, despite the actual ancient translation. The Amati and Dusek are the kits which most come to mind. Pavel Nikitin’s new kit is also the largest in scale of this iconic vessel, weighing in at a whopping 1:25 scale! That equates to the following sizes: Length: 865mm Width: 430mm Height: 480mm Like the San Bartolome kit I recently looked at, the Drakkar is a second reworking, bringing a number of improvements over the original release, such as laser engraved ‘carved’ details on the bow and stern, including the ‘curls’ at each of those points. On other kits, this is where you would normally see such things as a dragon’s head, but this ship does not carry them, as per the actual recovered ship. I think in some respects, this was perhaps not as per a normal drakkar, but I could be wrong. The kit itself is packed into a slender but heavy corrugated box with a flap-opening lid depicting the finished model in all her glory, fitted with striped sail and 28 shields of varying décor. Inside the box, the various sheets are grouped into packages that are wrapped in cellophane, or ‘clingfilm’ as we know it in the UK. This keeps the sheets very tightly together. There are around 40 sheets of materials to build the drakkar. But that’s not all. Included with the ship is a very sturdy MDF jig which will most certainly aid those tasks that would otherwise be difficult, such as adding those clinker planks. As with other Pavel kits, this one also includes a homemade MDF and acrylic parts box, with the part numbers clearly engraved on the sliding lid. This box includes different sizes of high-quality rope in differing sizes (no fuzz!), 3d-printed boss heads for the many shields, cleats etc. The first task for the builder is to assemble the jig before then embarking on building the bulkheads. The bulkheads consist of a lower half into which a dovetailed upper half is fitted. The most outboard parts of each bulkhead are also separate parts. On the sheet, these are shown adjacent to their position on the uppers, with arrows depicting the location. This will add a little strength to the outer bulkheads, plus that change in grain direction at that point, will also help. There are also engravings on the completed bulkheads which denote where you need to pre-bevel the bulkheads prior to installation on the keel. The keel itself is a multipart assembly, with dovetail connection points. The bulkheads will be installed to the keel, inverted upon the building jig, and here is where the hull will sit until fully planked. A drakkar has a single mast and spar. These are provided as laser-cut/tapered parts that you will need to round off. Looking at the shape of these parts, then this is a welcome touch. Strips of dowel are also provided for the numerous oars. The paddles for these are pre-cut. For display purposes, a stand is also included, as is an engraved plate with a serial number. The kit is 00009. I am informed that the timber for this kit is a combination of walnut, cherry, alder, and beech. The instruction book is 28-page spiralbound A4 production with a protective plastic cover. The first part of the manual is text which relates to the numerous stages. Those stages are presented in drawing form in the second half of the manual. The drawings do appear to be nice and clear, and construction takes place over 68 stages. Inside the sleeve of the manual is a piece of laser-cut paper which contains three profiles which are designed to lay against the laminates that form the ‘fish’ or mast base. These are laid on at various stages and shaped to them. One plastic sleeve contains three nicely printed plan sheets which show the drakkar in various profiles, and in rig etc. The second wallet contains a single printed piece of material for the sail. You will obviously need to cut and stitch this yourself. The photos show this brightly painted, but I’d read that these were usually quite dark as protected with tar due to the expense of the sails back in days of yore. I do admit that the painted sail looks beautiful, and I’d probably go with that. The size of the sail is really quite an indicator at the size of this model in a large 1:25. Conclusion From both appearance and materials, this kit stands head and shoulders above other contemporary kits of Viking drakkar, by a very wide margin. Being based on the Oseberg remains, she also appears to be the most accurate of all of them too. The timbers used in the kit are stated as imitating those of the real vessel, which may have been the case, but the ships themselves were coated in tar and would’ve been quite dark. I suppose the final choice would be for the modeller. I would probably go for the tarred look. In all, I’m seriously impressed with this kit and Pavel’s determination to improve what already looked like the best kit available for this subject. All the small touches like the 3D shield bosses and the highly detailed laser carvings instead of the usual white metal fayre, really sets this apart. If you’ve ever had a thing about Viking ships or just want to build something a little different, then I really recommend this new release. *It was found that the kit had planks which were slightly too narrow to overlap properly. Pavel is now sending over replacement plank sets so I can eventually have a shot at building this lovely model kit. My sincere thanks to Pavel Nikitin for sending this kit out for review on MSW. To buy directly, click the link at the top of this article.
  4. Hello Fellow Model Ship Builders! I am excited to be embarking on the construction of a model of the Oseberg Viking Ship! This ship was a ceremonial burial ship built around 800-834 AD and was excavated in Oseberg , Norway in 1904-1905. My great grand parents came from Sweden and my wife has significant Norwegian heritage, so with our bit of connection to Scandinavia, I thought this would be a fun model to build.....I also love the lines on these fast-looking Viking boats. I saw the actual Oseberg as a young teenager in the '80s in the museum in Norway, post cards (and entry ticket) from my scrapbook are posted below. I'm going to take my time, and as always I am not the fastest builder due to work and family commitments, but here goes! Wikipedia page on the Oseberg: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oseberg_Ship
  5. Since other members have posted extensive build reports of this boat kit I will focus primarily on the choices I have made. The main issue of the kit is the scroll parts for the bow and stern which are far too thick. This is the solution I opted for : Some modifications to turn the model into a working rc one : I have also added some 1/24 figures (I will order or make some more in the future): I have finally finished the shields and now I'm going to tackle the oars (also a rather boring and repetitive job). I think that the oars should all have a different length (the midships ones should be shorter than those closer to the bow and stern), although BB do not refer to this in their instructions. Regards, Arjan
  6. Early last year, a good friend gave me a bottle of Kraken rum thinking I could use it for a future SIB project. I’d consider him a great friend had there still been rum in the bottle, but since it was empty he’s only a good friend. It’s the thought that counts though, right? So after finishing up the Adventure Galley SIB, I decided it was time to do something with the Kraken bottle. But what exactly? I wasn’t real familiar with what the Kraken was, so I started googling. Most pictures I found showed a huge octopus-looking thing wrapping its tentacles around a sailing ship. Hmmmm. For some weird reason, it made me think of the 80’s and something that you’d find in just about every honky-tonk bar and high-class living room in Texas back then - an armadillo on it’s back holding up a bottle of Lone Star beer like it was fixing to drink it. Then the dim light bulb in my head flickered on. Why not try to make a SIB where the Kraken is acting like the armadillo, holding the SIB above the water like it’s trying to drink the ship out of the bottle? The bad news was sculpting a Kraken creature would take skills way beyond my abilities. The good news was that the friend who gave me the Kraken bottle also happens to be an incredibly talented artist who does amazing carvings and sculptings. So I threw out the idea of a collaborative effort on this project. Unfortunately, the timing was not good for my friend so he declined. Which means I’m gonna try to do this whole project myself. Lord have mercy!
  7. Hi everyone, This is my first try at building a wooden ship from a kit. I have been slowly working on it since the first of the year. I have been looking at the build logs of Von Kossa and Jack Panzeca. They have done such a nice job and I can only hope to come close to their work.
  8. Hi everyone! It's been a while since I posted in these forums, but I'm starting my first wooden ship model so I figured it was time to start a build log thread. For this first project, I decided to build the Oseberg Viking longship. So far the best plans I've found are here: http://oseberg.narod.ru/pages/Oseberg_Schiff_Spiegazioni_Pag_01.htm If anyone knows of any other publicly accessible plans that are better, I'd love to hear about them. This appears to be from a kit model but I think that might make it easier for a first build. I'll post pics as I make progress. Edit: I've updated the title to reflect the plans I've settled on, which have changed multiple times since I started this thread. I'm now working from the plans by Vibeke Bischoff that were used to build the Saga Oseberg 1:1 replica, from the book, "Saga Oseberg: rekonstruktion af et vikingeskib" by Thomas Søes Finderup, master boat builder of the Saga Oseberg replica.
  9. First model ship kit build: First build log on MSW. Be still my beating heart! The Kit: Billings large model of the Oseberg Ship (1/25). This turned out to be Billings part number 720 and has plywood laser-cut shields, and laser-scored scrollwork in ply (More on the laser and ply later as the build commences) The kit was a Christmas present (2018) from my lovely Admiral, and was ordered and obtained from our local model boat shop Float-a-Boat. It took about 6 months to arrive but this was not a worry, as we both had plenty to do since we had just moved house. By the way, "Oseberg" in Australia is pronounced "Osssburg" I'm sure I could have obtained it cheaper and faster, but the end cost would be huge, as real model shops will not be there unless we use them I failed to take the ceremonial unboxing and layout on the carpet pictures. Sorry Not much in the box, as longships do a LOT with a little material. Some dowels, stripwood - all obechi as far as I can see, sail material, build instructions (which make IKEA instructions look encyclopaedic by comparison) and a double sided full size plan, which includes (some) dimensions for the build Jig Why a Longship? I love them! I went to see the Sutton Hoo museum in Suffolk, UK and was smockraffled by the model of the reconstructed boat in the entrance. It's about 1.5m long and I remember seeing it's bow from water level and realising that I want to make one of them. So since that I have been reading about the construction - actual and model. I have learned of the wide range of boats in this style of construction then and now. I can remember walking round Stavanger harbour in the 1980s and seeing small boats whose construction and fastenings are clearly cousins of the Oseberg ship Confession. I have Previous Form In the early part of this century I raced Footy Radio-control (sometimes) yachts and progressed from state-of-the-art carbon masterpieces designed by Angus Richardson (he designed the 507 Footy still sold by Melbourne's RadioSailingShop) to satisfying scale gaff-riggers such as Presto (https://www.woodenboat.com/boat-plans-kits/presto-footy) I was asked by Angus to make him a Drakkar to the Footy rules to act as his Admiral's barge on ceremonial occasions, so I made one, learned a LOT and made him the requested Drakkar called Rodolm with an Angus-designed pattern on the sail (photos follow if anyone is interested) The lower hull was carved blue foam (to the sections of the Gokstad ship) with about 3 strakes above the foam to make the hull. The keel allowed a removable polycarbonate keel with lead ballast to be inserted. Mast was exactly in the centre of everything and sail was fixed to the mast. Both rotated up to 180 degrees to allow close-hauled sailing on either tack. Now regrettably Angus had poor sight, and Rodolm had low and symmetrical prow and stern (as it had to comply with the Footy rules) and sailing her turned out to be a challenge for him. I added a staff and mylar streamer to the stern to help him with orientation and wind direction. Info: "Footy" yachts have to fit in a Box 12 inches long x 6 inches wide x 12 inches deep. (Rodolm did) I am aware of venturing into a huge forum of skilled experts with diverse knowledge. Please feel entirely free to dive in and comment, help, suggest solutions and/or request more (or less) information To come in next post: The build so far Mine is a Friday Kit Decisions about Floor levels There will be no Ply edge visible! The Giants on whose shoulders I an planning to stand andrew
  10. Good evening all, This is my first build log and first model build in close to 30 years. When I bought the Oseberg I bought it with all intentions of building it as the museum ship. Best laid plans right. I'm going to be cremated when it's time. I thought hmmmm... a Viking funeral, (yes I know there really weren't any ship burnings but what the heck). I also bought the Billing since it didn't NOT have the dragon head & tail, again the best laid plans. I actually bought and started the model in August. I read in another post that it isn't bad taste to start a build log as long as there aren't just pictures. And I might just help other newbies pointing out the 5,741 mistakes I've made already. Mistake #1, thinking the kit would actually have instructions, not. I guess Model Shipways & Bluejacket got me spoiled with their superb instruction booklets. I am not able to have the open box ceremony as I didn't realize that was proper manners. Next will. I will say the kit itself isn't to bad. But maybe not the kit for a fella that hasn't modeled in 30 years to get back into the hobby. I shall overcome! (Especially with the build logs here that I've scoured over countless times. Setting the frames was pretty straight forward. Here are a couple pictures to get started.
  11. Greetings Everyone, This is my first build log and I missed the ritual box opening. I was already putting things together before I realized I should have photographed it first. The plans and directions are pretty sparse but it is a fairly straight forward ship. The keel had a slight bow in it but I used a little warm water and bent it a little past straight and it dried nice and flat. This is the kit version with the plywood scrollwork and shields. The keel and bulk heads leave a lot of exposed plywood edges and my plan is to cover them with oak veneer. The deck planking is Obechi which is soft, brittle and in my eye a little ugly. I have already ripped a few oak planks and they should work fine. I am happy to be here and doing this. More soon.
  12. I have just received my Oseberg purchased on ebay from from rc-multistore_de. Impressed by the very fast delivery to the UK from Germany. I do not plan to cover every step of the construction which has been done so eloquently by others including Jack and Kossa. However I will describe any variations as I make them. Firstly I noticed a tiny sketch in the instruction book showing that the stem and stern keel pieces #10a and #10b need to be faired. As described by Jack these pieces will be removed and replaced by the scroll pieces so they will not be faired. Instead I have faired the keel pieces #10 almost to a knife edge. I will decide whether to shave off a layer of the scroll pieces in due course. Like Antti I plan to fill between the bulkheads with softwood to stiffen the structure and to form a firm base for planking. I did the same with a Friesland model with good effect.
  13. Hi! This will be a build log about my ongoing project to build a scale 1:25 wooden version of the Oseberg Ship. I will try to reconstruct this build log after the crash.
  14. So, as I said, I´ll begin some new projects while still building the Chinese Junk. This is the first of two, the Osberg by Amati. Before any sawdust comes through, I have to thank my friend Jack Panzeca for his gift. Yep, he was a sweety and sent me this kit he wouldn´t build for he already was building the Billing´s Oseberg - As I was always telling how nice it was and let it clear I would build one if I had, Jack surprised me with offering this one. Jack, here I am, building the ship - Thank you. A review of the box - In comparison to the other 2 ships I built till now, the Amati Oseberg kit is a little sparse on material. Truth be told, that´s because the ship itself isn´t that material consumer - viking ships are fantastic ships considering the small use of wood and their sailing capabilities. The false keel and bulkheads are laser cut, as the wood for hull planking - at first I thought it strange for they´re strangely shaped, but that's explainable by the planking of a so characteristic hull. Some pictures follow: Fittings may be a problem to those who, as I do, like the wood everywhere. Shields are metal cast, oars are plastic as the mast step. All of those are already marked on my plans as scratchbuild fittings. I have to say, though, that Amati Oseberg isn´t really the Oseberg. I measured the ship´s keell and middle bulkead to find she doesn´t fit on the true Oseberg dimensions - False keel should have 43,16cm, and it has 43,9cm, width should be 5,20cm, it´s 5,7cm. Also, Amati´s bring a strange dragon head instead of the engraved details Oseberg has, as a central oar holder that shouldn´t be there. My plans on bashing/modifying goes for removing the central oar holder, engraving the stem/stern as the Oseberg (well, the closest I can get, at least), adding the big barrel the museum ship exposes and chests before the oar holes. I´ll scratch the oars, shields, mast step and rudder. I begun by building a stand. It´s a 6mm mdf board with two 6mm planks held together by butterfly bolts. I would install metal trails for a bulkead aligner, but changed my mind. Instead, I traced lines on the board and made a 90° angled piece gluing 2 mdf pieces (sanded and measured). (To be continued)
  15. Ahoy shipmates (and all that blarney!) I am back!!! After a pause and change of model I have returned to the watery kind. I got the Amati Oseberg on ebay at a reasonable price most of which was probably accounted for by the pretty box! The Viking boats required surprisingly little wood which is exactly what Amati provide. There are instructions dubiously translated into English, a good sheet of 1/1 plans, a little box of bits and pieces. Lots of small dowel to make oars with, a wee bit of deck planking veneer and some well cut laser pieces including the pre-shaped strakes, the false keel and bulkheads and that is about it. Would you believe you even have to add your own glue!!! Anyway, I appreciate this is not an accurate representation of the real Oseberg and it is interesting to note that Amati now seem to sell exactly the same kit named the 'Drakkar'. I don't intent to modify it very much but I can see that the plywood edges will need to be covered and the deck planking done completely differently from the destructions. I have looked up a couple of other builds to get me up to speed. So here goes, a couple of pictures of the box and contents to start with and I just couldn't resist posting a couple of pictures of my interim model (with apologies to MSW).
  16. Hi everyone !! I'm really excited to be starting this today, though I'm really nervous too lol. If my ship turns out even a tiny bit as good as Jack Panzeca's or Von_Kossa's or any of the others here for that matter then I'll be happy! This will be my first model ship build, although I do have a small background in architectual modeling and of course like many of us here I built plastic models and balsa planes as a kid. I've always had a interest in wooden ship models and I love viking and viking longships so the Oseberg was the logical start for me. I bought this kit about five years ago however life kept me from having the time or place to start building until now. I've spent the last several days reading lots of build logs for this ship and now its time for me to start though I'll need lots of advice tips and help I'm sure. I also want to mention that like Jack P. and von_Kossa I plan on remaking lots of the parts myself and covering all the plywood edges in oak veneer. (I may also do an oak deck like Jack P.) Ok here we go the unboxing pics!!!
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