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  1. Hermione now sits in my library on a nice furniture covered with glass. Coronivirus lock-down continuous though things look much better. In the last days Cyprus marks single digit numbers. Actually I wasnt planning to start a new model so soon, but lock-down drove my hand to the cupboard where the R.Caroline kit was stored. A kit in a scale that I really desire to build... where details can be seen, I hope. Its my second ship of the 18th century. After Hermione I though the scale and the rich decoration of this ship, it can become a much enjoyable build. So am sailing again.
  2. Well folks I've been sitting on this one for a few years now. I had always planned to build it for my daughter, Caroline. Before I got anywhere near buying the kit I lost my beautiful girl in a horse riding accident, that was in 2005 and she was 13. I've had the kit now for about 6 years but haven't been in the right place (on a lot of levels) to do it but the time has come. There will be a few special little things done during the build and eventually my son will get the model. This is the first kit I've done in a while as I prefer scratch builds but we'll see how it goes. Bear with me, this may take a while. The keel was laid on 13/1/2021
  3. Welcome to my ongoing log of my build of HMS Victory by Panart. Although I have modelled in the past, this is my first model ship, working in wood and metal rather than plastics. Having taken on the project with zero knowledge of model shipbuilding and working with wood at such a small scale it has been a great challenge building this ship to the high standard I wanted. I've built up my skills throughout, learning a lot from fellow modellers on this website, and can say this is my favourite project I've ever worked on. At this current stage I'm really happy with the results and would like to share the images of the build as it progresses.
  4. I bought this new on Ebay a couple of weeks ago for a very good price. This is my 5th model. 1. Model Expo 18 Century Long Boat, 2. AL 1805 Swift Boat (that I completely screwed up), 3. AL Hermione, 4. Model Expo Chaperon. It is always disappointing to see a new log that gets abandoned. I hope this doesn't happen here. Since I have finished five models before, I don't think this will happen. Also, I would like to keep the log clean meaning not a lot of "back patting". I don't need the gratification. A simple "Like" is good enough. If you have helpful suggestions or constructive criticism, I want to hear it. Box that it came in. I finished the final layer of planks and I lay bare my planking sins at the altar of Model Ship World. ☺️ Before sanding and filling. I would've liked to not have to paint it but I fear that I got sloppy with the CA. I can get a little bit of CA on my fingers and the next thing I know it is on the bare wood.☹️ That's it for now. RussR
  5. Hi, so I've just started this kit as my first build - not only do I lack previous experience, I lack many handy tools and anything more than than a kitchen table to build on, but here we go! Keel and veneering seems fine, and just starting on the bow and stern faring blocks. One thing I can't quite understand (from the instructions 'translated' from Italian) is how the bulkheads can be glued to the keel, have the planking glued to them, but still be removed later, to get the open hull result. Should they just be pinned to the keel? special glue to use that's easily dissolved? My current range of available glues is from PVA to...PVA I'll keep posting photos, if just to show the pitfalls of a beginner buying an intermediate kit!
  6. Hi, This is a build log of Panart’s 1/16 scale, Armed Pinnace, though as I commenced this model quite a number of years ago, the log actually starts from where I finished back then. If I’d known then what I know now about model ship/boat building, I would have approached the build of this kit somewhat differently. I would have planked the hull using scale lengths, for instance. Also I would have thought ahead about the colour scheme and painted/stained various parts before assembling. I’d finished the basic triple-planked hull construction and done a reasonable amount of work on the interior. I was however not happy with the wood supplied for the outer planking as I thought the grain was too obvious for my liking. The instructions say that this wood is walnut, but it looks as if it might be beech with a very pronounced flecked grain. I did use this for the hull below the waterline as this is to be painted and the grain won’t be a problem. Above the waterline I used walnut strips which I had available. The two different types of wood can be clearly seen in the photos. Several drop planks can be seen at the bow in the photo below. Other build logs mention a problem with the foredeck being undersized, but I cannot remember if I had that particular problem, though the appearance of the deck as I’ve built it, does not quite match the drawing on the plan. This may affect the installation of the gun slide, so we’ll see. As well as the hull planking, I’d finished installing the ribs, the stringers, the decks, planking at the stern and bow and fashioned and glued in place the bow hatch. The instructions actually say to fit the cap rail (that goes on top of the planking and the ribs) before putting the ribs in place, but this would have been extremely awkward as the ribs would have had to butt up against both the deck and the cap rail. Very fiddly indeed. Instead the ribs were installed and easily trimmed at the top ready for the cap rail at a later date. Then the next thing to do was to reacquaint myself with the plans and the instructions, the latter not being the greatest. The infill blocks between the ribs at deck level were installed and the decorative nails at the rib/stringer junctions were pushed home after drilling pilot holes. The supplied nails were shortened as they were not meant to penetrate all the way through the planking. The stern hatch cover was made and glued in place. The shuttering was then made. This was actually the very last of the instructions, which doesn’t make sense as these need to be fitted before the interior of the boat, including the cannon carriage and slide, is completed. I also didn’t follow the instructions anyway, but simply fitted and glued the transverse planks directly to the deck. The cutouts from the deck that I should have used, gluing the planks to these before putting the shutter in place, had gone missing anyway. The shutters completely installed but not yet sanded. The anti-slip strips were cut to size and glued onto the shutters. A strip of wood was taped to the shutters to allow the strips to be aligned. The partly assembled gratings, which will cover the four remaining holes in the deck, are also visible in the above photo. These will be the subject of the next post. Cheers. Richard
  7. Started the HMS Victory the other night and already caught my first mistake with the bulkheads. Bulkheads number 4 and 5 were in each others position. They look very simular with the exception to the very top. Ended up cutting the the false deck plates (no:15 & 16), chiseling the glue join very carefully and as a unit rotated the unit into the proper position. Very lucky! Now re-glue and add some additional bracing under the false deck plates.
  8. Hey all, I have to admit honestly I have cheated and already begun this build. Truth be told, I wasn't even going to post a build log. However, early on I began running into problems and questions based from the plans (if you can call them that) and I thought I should at least let you guys know what my thought process was in resolving them. I have built another Panart kit (gundeck cutaway) and overall the experience was OK. There were many occasions where the instructions totally contradicted the drawings and the drawings totally contradicted what few pix there were. Fortunately, there were more than a few MSW members that helped me along with that build. It turned out quite nice and I have to say working with the large scale was a lot of fun. Sadly, this kit does not have the same appealas the gundeck. I have found a few old build logs, but honestly have gained little insight to the problems that I see. Lancia Armata is not much more than an armed ships boat, but at 1:16 scale even a small boat has lots of detail. This is one those builds where you plank the frames then knock out the frames and there are some issues around that. The biggest one is the lower part of the frame is supposed to remain fixed so basically you are breaking off the top 2/3 of the frame. There is a horizontal slice at the breakpoint but I doubt it extends far enough to give a clean break. I am definitely considering extending that slice before I cover the frames with planks. Then my biggest nitemare, the planking diagram (insulting to even give it that much credit) shows some bizarre pattern for planking. Keep in mind this build is supposed to have 3 plank layers. Yup, you heard me right. Here's the only drawing they show: Looks like what a 5 year old might turn out as their first planking attempt. I mean honestly, this is pathetic. And it is the only drawing that shows any planking at all. Is this how all 3 plank layers are supposed to be laid? Is there supposed to be a garboard? How about a rabbet? Are they truly suggesting that I lay these 5 planks and then carve fillers for all the gaps? This lack of detail is inexcusable. I apologize, I am still on a rampage due to the lack of details. Fortunately, I have enough builds under my belt to realize the deficiencies in the drawings/instructions. Someone that took this kit as their first build would be totally hosed. I will try to be more positive in the future. I am already making my own adjustments to get me thru this BS. I have decided to plank this just like every other build I have done. If you are familiar with any of my other builds you know that means marking off bands and breaking out the proportional dividers. I will have some pix and an explanation forthcoming. Sorry for starting out so negative, but it will get better.....
  9. Hi everyone, I posted a few pictures and started a poll a few weeks ago regarding getting back into building. I have several kits in different stages and was just bouncing around without getting anything finished. I decided to go with the Royal Caroline because it had significant work done and because I love that ship. I have been encouraged to start a build log by a couple of people so here it is. I was hesitant to make a log because when I started taking pictures, it was already in progress as you will see with the first pictures. I will add more pics as I progress. The best part of all, is that I am back building and it feels good. Hopefully I will stick with it and complete this beautiful kit. Thanks to those that are interested. The first 4 pictures are from the current state when I picked it back up. I hadn't even installed the wales and nothing had been added to the deck. None of the bow brass work had been installed. I did mess around with installing drapes, and though it's very hard to see, I tried adding some "stained glass" to some of the windows. I have always used the wood strips that come with kits to do the deck planking. This time I bought some Midwest architectural grade basswood and it worked out very well. It's precisely cut and after adding some oil, it really came alive and made the "caulking" very nice and visible and most of all nice and even. Caulking done with a pencil. Here I started adding stuff to the deck, such as the capstan and the winding staircases. And then I added the channels and deadeyes as well as the small steps on the side of the hull. The scupper holes too. Here is where I added all of the brass work to the bow. This was no fun at all. Those brass "rails" had to be bent to shape from some very hard brass. I had to modify a pair of needle nose pliers in order to keep a firm grip on the brass. I hated the process. And finally the gallery. This was also a real pain due to the brass parts. For the windows, I decided to go with mylar. I had never used it but I didn't want to cut out the areas behind the windows just to look at a dark empty hole through some acetate. My daughter didn't like the mylar at all, but my wife loved it. I like it too. I also placed the lanterns, but only for this pic. I will remove them temporarily so they don't get damaged during all the handling. I'll be posting more pics as I progress.
  10. Hello all! I have discovered a long time ago that I cannot simply build one ship at a time. As I am only working on Royal Louis right now, and am nearing the halfway point, I found myself with the itch to start a new build. I do enjoy doing things this way as it allows me to switch back and forth between builds when I get to a point where I need more research or am simply bored with what I am currently doing. I was originally going to build Sovereign of the Seas, but every store I checked was currently sold out with no expected date of restock due to global shipping conditions. The one I found was priced far higher than normal and so I passed. Thanks particularly to Doris' breathtaking build of Royal Caroline, this beautiful yacht had been at the top of my wish list for some time and so I decided to go for it. As usual for me, I intend to heavily bash this kit, particularly to build out the interior cabins and provide lighting to illuminate those details. Working with a far larger scale than I am usually accustomed to, 1:48 compared to my other current build of 1:90, means that I will have ample opportunity for showing those details with clarity, and far less excuses for shoddy work... 😬 So please, pull up a chair and join me if you like. I build slow, so get a big bucket of popcorn and settle in. I hope you enjoy the journey. First off, the unboxing. I will not go into too much detail here as these are all largely the same. What is inside is typical for a Mantua brand kit. Decent laser cut parts, clean wood and fair castings, fittings and some line for rigging. Nothing spectacular but the components will make a fine model out of the box. Some stuff I use, some I do not and will be explained as the build goes on.
  11. Hi All, I started this model last Christmas, sorry I have been so long in starting a log , but I was alsostill building the 'Norfolk'. Then the kit went back on the shelf while I finished the 'Norfolk' and I contemplated a problem I was having with the planking, that lasted for about 5 months!! I finally got her out of storage a couple of weeks ago and have been slowly building again in between house renovations. I have taken heaps of photos so please be patient while I upload them to catch up to where I am currently with the build. I would like to make a few comments about the kit. The timber and laser cut parts are all of good quality, however all of the planks including the deck planks are walnut this makes for a very dark interior on an open model. I think they should have supplied a lighter timber for the deck planks as a contrast. all of the fittings are of high quality material although the bow figuere head does seem a bit large and akward. There were a few parts missing which I have replaced. I also have brought some extra blocks and eye pins so I can fully rig the guns and some heart blocks to replace the 3 hole blocks they supplied for the forestay. I intend to fully rig the guns on the middle and upper gun deck and to rig at least the breeching ropes on the lower gun deck. My plan is to fit the middle and upper gun deck after the hull has been completed so I can rig the cannons on each deck before fitting the deck above. We will see how that plan works out Here are some pic's of the kit I will post some more pics later Enjoy
  12. Time to re-construct my build log of Panart's Amerigo Vespucci 1:84. I still have all the photos I've taken during the build so far but unfortunately I do not have all the text I had written for the old build log. So this log will start with a summary of the build until present stage. All my photos can be found here: Photo album It all started around 3 years ago. I began with some of the small boats as I didn't had room to start on the main hull. However, here I will start with the main hull. Internal framework To be continued... /Lars Peter
  13. HI ALL and thank you for visiting these pages. This will be just my second attempt at building a wooden boat kit, my first one being the BILLING BOATS ST.ROCH which took me forever to complete, lol. I kept putting the kit away for months at a time, but this time, I'll be able to commit much more readily. I always fancied building this Venice Passenger boat since first seeing one on a trip to Venice (I took the photos below). I have no idea what attracted me to them - it just happened and then I became a little fixated after following Steve Gogs' amazing Build-Log (which has now very sadly been lost). Amazingly, just as this model arrived, I also stumbled upon an old BENTLEY Airfix kit which I built as a schoolboy in the early 1970's. I spotted it on Facebook's MarketPlace and couldn't believe my eyes - a totally "Brand New In Box", unopened kit with the original price tag of £4.65p from Toy Town in Leamington Spa. WOW!!! I just might build the Bentley first and try to get my grandson interested in the hobby. I should imagine the car-kit will get him hooked quicker than a long, drawn out boat build. Anyway, it's good to be back on here and I very much look forward to chatting with you all and benefiting from your knowledge and experience. Regards, Tom.
  14. After long period of no model building due to moving to new house and renovations I decided to restart with a standard kit. In the mean time build some RC kits (Hovercraft and DF65 Sailing boat) fo use within the Modelclub Selection was made for this small Battle station from Panart. Once this is finished I will restart with the Wasa I need no to check how I can share pictures. Log will follow shortly
  15. Another Very Different Model (for me, anyway) My wife gave me another ship model this Christmas. Of course I gave her strong hints what I wanted. What I wanted was a working vessel with clean lines, a planked hull, and no rigging. After a long search I found the Anteo harbour tug by Panart, which seems to be a part of Mantua models in Italy. Please let me know if I am wrong about this. I ordered the kit from Cornwall Model Boats in the UK. Even with shipping to the US their price was significantly cheaper than anyone else. I ordered the kit on a Sunday and had it in my hands the following Thursday. Amazing service. I gave the box to my wife and opened it on Christmas morning. What's In The Box. First of all, the box measures 37x11x4 inches and weighs a whopping 12.5 pounds! It is packed with quality parts. There are two packages of fittings including funnels, the wheel, tires, the prop, line, portholes, lights, and the anchor. Planking for a double-planked hull , heavy PVC stack. Vacuformed lifeboat shells, rubber bumper material, brass prop shaft. 6 sheets of 1/4" laser-cut ply. 4 sheets of thin veneer ply. A large sheet of photo-etched brass. Instructions in 4 languages plus 2 catalogues. The English instructions are short and pretty rough. 4 pages of plans, 2-sided, 27x39 inches.
  16. I started my build on the Amerigo Vespucci in March 2019. Here are photos as I progressed thru the build. Still a way to go. Progress up to the end of Manual # 5 I decided to add LED's to the build and here I have wired it up with 70 LED's.
  17. Greetings All, Where to begin...? I had intended to start posting my progress, but life got in the way. However I first must acknowledge all other building blogs for the Lynx - they did help steer me in the right direction. Shortly after I started, I had the bulkheads aligned with the keel; and had begun planking:
  18. Hi, I have recently started the Amerigo Vespucci, 1:84 scale from a Panart kit. I quite enjoyed the interaction I got from members on my Royal William log so I’ll again share my build with you. I bought the kit off Ebay for a good price, it is an early version about 20 – 25 years old and differs quite a bit from their current version, I think for the better. Lime for first planking, not balsa, etched sheet brass for the plating not ply, planked deck instead of printed ply and 12 sheets of plans many 1:1, but poor badly translated instructions instead of the step by step guide. Although old everything was in very good condition, straight keel and bulwarks, which were very well laser cut, matching the plans perfectly, the strip wood is very nice, straight cleanly cut and still flexible enough although has hardened quite a bit. There are hundreds of castings and machined brass fittings all nicely bagged, these will need a serious cleaning as they have become badly tarnished. A very comprehensive and well presented kit. I admire many of the builders on this site for their skill, painstaking dedication to detail and accuracy but I’m afraid that’s not me. My build will be as simple as I can make it, mostly straight from the box with just enough detail to make it a nice looking well made model that will not take me years, with the chance of getting fed up and quitting. I wanted to start the build by first preparing the mounting. I want to mount it on brass pedestals on a large mahogany plinth so needed to do the preparation for this prior to planking rather than risk damaging the model at a later stage by turning it upside down. My first problem is that due to the lack of availability of stuff due to the Covid restrictions I can’t get anything, the wood yards are closed and even popular online modelling suppliers have run out of anything I want, glues, sealers wood strip and my columns. I started by joining together the three sections of keel, I reinforced the joins then beefed up the area where the pedestals will be fixed with rods, I drilled them out and hope that they line up later. I dry fitted the bulkheads, they only needed the lightest of sanding before becoming a perfect fit. I made up a keel support out of scrap, not very neat looking but works well enough.. I glued all the bulkheads into place, I added extra support on the outer edge of the front three and stern bulkheads. I usually infill these areas with balsa but the lines of the hull are so friendly that I didn’t think that it would be needed. I spent quite a bit of time fairing the frames making sure that they were as perfect as I could make them. I have now started the first layer with the 6 x 1.5 lime planks provided, so far so good. That’s me starting my journey please feel free to join me. Ken
  19. Hello all! Here we go again! After finishing Le Renard, I have decided to start the build of Panart's kit of the Lynx. I really like the lines of this ship with it's huge rig and raked masts. I will be continuing my Bluenose build, but have found out that I like to have two (or more?) projects at different stages going at the same time. This will be my first model with double planking, so we'll see how that goes! So here is a few photos of the box and it's contents. The quality of the lasercuts look great, with no burn marks, and no warping. The rest of the materials also look good. There is two sheets with plans printed on both sides and a pamphlet of written instructions. Upon starting to look things through and planning the point of attack, I realised that even though the lasercuts look great, they are not numbered in any way.. There is however a full scale drawing of most of the pieces on the plans, so I cut loose the bulkheads and layed them on the plan to figure out which was which. The drawing (or the lasercuts) seems to be inaccurate as none of the bulkheads fit perfectly on the plan. A little bit of guesswork is needed here.. Bulkhead no. 6 and 7 is very similar, but I think I got it figured out. The keel is in one piece, but the plans and instructions say that it is three pieces that need to be joined together. Maybe they have updated the kit and not the instructions? I decided to cut a rabbet in the keel to take the planking. No mention of this in instructions. This is where I am now, more updates to come as work progress. Stay safe! Gaffrig.
  20. I'm starting the Bruma, which I chose to give me something hopefully less complex and long than the Cutty Sark. Here are some "What's In the Box" Pics. It's wood, laser cut sheets, some fittings, and plan sheets. The instructions are printed on the back of one of the plan sheets (in several languages). The English instructions are about one column length, including the parts list. What I'm going to do is scan them so I can print them out and still be able to use the other side of the plan sheet. Regards, David
  21. Begun my Panart HMS VICTORY. This is the kit with the boats and copper tiles. First reactions that the kit contents are high quality with straight ,unblemished wood. The instructions and plans are minimal. If I cut out the English instructions and glued them on to sheets would only just about cover two A4 sheets. This us my fourth wooden build and although sellers say beginners could attempt this kit I would doubt it. I have had to stare at the simple plans (only two sheets cover the whole hull build) for days to try to understand what to do. However ,eventually could figure it out(only because I'm not a novice. Downloaded Caldecraft's instructions which help a little .Moving on to bevelling the bulwarks before thinking about initial planking. My instructions say virtually nothing and don't mention bevelling etc as does Caldecraft's but my initial look suggests that the bulwarks don't need excessive shaping but will spend as much time as needed to get this crucial stage as perfect as possible.
  22. After many years, several models, and in health and in sickness, I have decided to resume the HMS Victory. This log is based on the practicum by Bob Hunt. For those of you not familiar with Bob's work, this is a total kit bash involving completely finishing the main gun deck and aft cabins and replacing kit supplied wood with exotic wood which I mill myself. The primary source is the AOS HMS Victory by John McKay. And thanks to my wonderful First Lord of the Admiralty, I am also the proud owner of Arthur Bugler's HMS Victory, Building, Restoration and Repair. as well as books by Alan McGowen, and Neppon Longridge. To make a long story short, I worked up to planking the starboard side down to the waterline where the copper plates began. Not being very happy with the result, I ripped everything out back down to the bulkheads and center keel. And, then I did it again. Needless to say the bulkheads' profiles were pretty well shot by now, and beyond salvage. Very discouraged, to say the least. My skills were just not ready to tackle this monster build. So, the Vicki went on the shelf. Along the way, I found I was hypersensitive to Ebony. This was more discouragement as all of the Victory blacking that was black was to be installed with ebony as were the rudder sternpost and stem. Ebony can be toxic both as a topical and respiratory allergen. With ebony out of the question, I tried several ways to "ebonize" wood, but, until a few days ago, nothing came out very satisfactory. I was reading on one of the wood workers' forums about using India ink, which I had previously tried with poor results. The solution- no pun intended- is to use an archival grade, acid free India ink. So I bought a jug. I took some boxwood strips, which is what I am planking with, and put two coats on with a paint brush. Let them dry, wiped them down with a t-shirt and then applied a coat of solvent based Wipe-on-Poly. This looks like it may be the solution. I will know more when I try to do the paint with wood using a glued-up split color plank tomorrow. More on this to follow. In the interim, I asked to purchase a complete set of the laser cut plywood hull pieces from Mantua in Italy. I am waiting to hear from them on Monday. If they don't want to sell me the set, I will just suck it up and cut them myself on the band saw and scroll saw and finish them on the oscillating sander. The good news is the hoarder that I am, I have all of the templates needed through Chapter 5 cut out of copies made on manila file folders. Regards to all
  23. ***Royal Caroline 1749 - Panart / Mantua Models*** Hello my friends!! It has been a while, a few months actually after completing my Santa Maria project. It was a joy to build and a honour to receive all those warm responses! I hope not to let you guys / galls down with this new project! During my absense I moved to a new house and I have been busy to make it a home. My last house was a temp. rental and the place had limited space. Due to the limited space I had to build my SM in the kitchen at the kitchentable. Our new house has enough space to have my own buildingplace, but I desided not to move to a seperate room. I liked working in the kitchen which is close to my family members in the house and so I'm not so isolated. Having small kids, this suits my family best. I do not use powertools, so I can easily clean up my workplace after working on the ship. What to choose... So, I had some difficulties to make a choice of a model for my next project. I narrowed my search to go for an Italian manufacturer like Amati, Corel or Mantua / Sergal / Panart, Euromodel. I had a specific budget for my next model as well, so that narrowed my search again. At last I desided to go for a English, Dutch or French 17th or 18th century. By this a few model ships were left on the list and I choose Royal Caroline of Panart, which is part of Mantua Models. The history of HMY Royal Caroline 1750 HMY Royal Caroline was a ship-rigged royal yacht. She was ordered in 1749 to replace HMY Carolina as Britain's principal royal yacht. She was built at Deptford Dockyard under the supervision of Master Shipwright John Hollond to a design by Surveyor of the Navy Joseph Allin. She was launched on 29 January 1750 and was broken up 70 years later, in 1820. Service Royal Caroline was first commissioned under Captain Sir Charles Molloy, who commanded her until 1753. Captain Sir Piercy Brett took over in 1754, and in August 1761 she became the flagship of Admiral of the Fleet Lord Anson, with Captain Peter Denis as his flag-captain. Anson had orders to convey Duchess Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Strelitz from Cuxhaven, Kiel to marry George III. Accompanying the yacht, renamed HMY Royal Charlotte in honour of the occasion, was a squadron of warships and four other royal yachts, HMY Mary, Katherine, Augusta and Fubbs. During the return voyage the squadron was three times blown over to the Norwegian coast by westerly gales and took ten days to reach Harwich, which it did on 6 September 1761. Royal Charlotte was commissioned under Peter Denis in December 1763, and remained under his command until 1770. Denis was succeeded by Captain John Campbell that year, and Campbell remained in command until his promotion to rear-admiral in 1777.[1] Royal Charlotte was recommissioned under Captain William Cornwallis in March 1783, and he was succeeded in turn by Captain Sir Hyde Parker in 1788. The yacht was briefly recommissioned in December 1792, but was paid off the following year. French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars She continued to be used for official occasions during the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars, with King George III making frequent trips in his yachts to welcome returning fleets and to conduct fleet reviews. The King embarked on Royal Charlotte in 1797 to visit the fleet at the Nore after the Battle of Camperdown, in order to honour Admiral Adam Duncan. Contrary winds however prevented the ship from reaching the mouth of the Thames, and instead the King was blown back up river to Greenwich. Royal Charlotte recommissioned again in May 1801 under Captain Sir Harry Neale, though by February 1804 Captain George Grey was in command. Grey was succeeded later in 1804 by Captain George Henry Towry, and he in turn in 1805 by Captain Edward Foote. By this time Royal Charlotte had been succeeded as the principal royal yacht by the introduction of the slightly larger HMY Royal Sovereign in 1804. Captain Foote commanded the yacht until 1812, when Captain Thomas Eyles took over command, and in June 1814 Captain George Scott became her commander. Royal Charlotte continued in service until July 1820, when she was finally broken up. source: Wikipedia The ins and outs of the box The box itself is made of cardboard. The typical standard in boxland. Shape of the box is long and narrow to hold wooden and metal parts. The boxart and artistic layout of colorfull images on the box scream "buy me and build me" Also a common standard in boxland! Everthing is neatly organized and sealed. The small ornaments and metal parts does look very good. After a look at the drawings however I recognize the Italian "style" of organized "chaos".... I will have a handfull on the poor drawings and poor instructions.... So, the wood looks nice doh... The pre-cut laser parts look good as well....just make sure I'll sand off the burn of the laser for a good fix between the wooden parts.... In a nutshell does the kit look very promising and a joy to build for sure. I'm not sure about some details, alternations and colorscheme yet, but this will become clear during my log of this build. Technical specifications and size Lengte: 830 mm Hoogte: 600 mm Schaal: 1:47 Part no: MM750 The build begins! Sheet 1 figure 1: it begins, bulkheads and "false" keel To start the build, first I have to number all the bulkhead parts and also the false keel. Preperation is everything they say... After numbering the parts, It's time to release them from their imprisonment! To clean up the parts, I use a 80grid sandpaper to sand off the burn of the laser. It's time to try a dry-fit of the parts. And I was very impressed with the overall fit of the parts. It didn't need to much adjustment at all and all fitted nicely. After this I will glue the parts into place, but that will be for the next update. The log and build has started and I hope you guys will follow me allong the way. See yah! Peter
  24. Hi all, New to this forum so please bare with me. I have just started building this Panart 1/78 scale version of HMS Victory and thought I would share my experiences here. I’m retired and live on a Scottish island and needed a new hobby, wooden ship building. Experienced I’m not I would call myself average. This the third kit I have made the previous two both being Caldercraft, HMS Sherborne and HMAV Bounty. Caldercraft kits are great but wanted to build a decent size Victory that didn’t require a bank loan to purchase. Anyway, let’s see where this goes.
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