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Found 5 results

  1. After a short break from the shipyard I have decided to start my next project which is another Modellers Shipyard kit of the Brig Perseverance. The Brig was built for Robert Campbell a Sydney merchant a few short years after the colony of New South Wales was established. She mainly sailed off the coast of south east Australia and southern New Zealand in search of seals for their fur and oil. The Captain of the Perseverance discovered Campbell Island (named after his employer) as well as Macquarie Island (after the then Governor of the Colony of New South Wales). As I have an interest in early Australian colonial history and can still see the old sandstone Campbell Stores building in the Rocks in Sydney I was keen to have a go at this build. First a few obligatory pics of the packaging as well as my very clean shipyard desk! The contents of the box are as expected and other than one sheet of the laser cut ply showing a lot of burn marks (which I'm not too fussed about as I will be painting or covering these parts with mahogany strips) it all looks like good quality fittings. I did order some new rigging rope from Syren as I have not been too happy with the quality provided in previous kit s from Modellers Central....the rope arrived very promptly (thank you Chuck!) and looks fantastic! The instruction booklet is, as usual, very detailed (57 pages) with plenty of photos (129 photos!). More pics to follow....a word of warning to those who want to follow the build progress.......it will be a slow one! Cheers................Fernando
  2. Hello every-one I'm nearly halfway through my build of the Colonial Brig Perseverance but i thought i would try to put up a rough log up to where i am now . This is a slow build as i have been building it now for close to 2 and a half years . I chose this model because i really liked the look of it and not being very experienced thought i shouldn't have to jump to many hurdles . The kit contents .Not to much to add here . The normal cast parts and laser cut ply pieces . The kit normally comes with mahogany for the second planking but i was able to get the mohogany swapped with Tanganika (the timber used for the prototype) after speaking to Modelers shipyard , the supplier of the kit . I will just add that i found i was some parts short last week and e-mail Modelers Shipyard about this so i could order more and they replaced them at no charge . I know the cost was minimal but to replace the parts after nearly 2 and a half years from purchasing the kit was very pleasing . Thumbs up guys . I have replaced a lot of the ply parts to where i am now but i will mention where as the log progresses . Instructions and plans are pretty straight forward although nothing is to scale on the plans . The deck arrangement says it's to scale but i wouldn't rely on it as i found mine to be out . I have no problem with the supplied timber or the fittings , very happy . Although i am disappointed in the ships boats . Not to sure what I'll do there . The plans very detailed except for the rigging configuration . Looks a bit confusing to me . Next up I'll get into the start of the build . David
  3. New member in Washington state. Received my first model for Xmas after many years of hints. I’m working on the Perseverance and finished laying the keel a few days ago. Starting the process of hull fairing this evening....
  4. This is my second attempt at a wooden model ship after failing miserably several years ago - basically as I had no idea what I was doing and the kit I attempted had very poor instructions. I chose the Colonial Brig Perseverance for two reasons: According to the guys at Modellers Shipyard, it's not too complex and ideal for a beginner, and It comes with a 3 DVD set showing a "master model maker" construction the model from start to finish. This really appealed to me as at the time I began, I had not discovered Model Ship World and really needed some guidance. Here is the DVD cover and a photo of the completed model (not mine!) As I am a new modeler its difficult for me to comment on the quality of the kit although the timber certainly does not seem to be as high quality as the timber in the Corel Unicorn kit that I started some time ago. The limewood planking varied considerably in thickness meaning a lot of sanding on the first layer of planking but I don't know if this the norm or not. Also, the silver ash deck planking varied considerably in width with some pieces 3mm, some 4mm and some 5mm wide. Again, is this generally normal or not for a kit???? Unfortunately I started the model before I discovered MSW and therefore I don't have any photos of the early stages of construction. I bought myself an Amati keel holder which has been very helpful. The bulkheads all fitted nicely to the keel and the fairing process although it seemed to take forever went smoothly. Fitting the false deck also was a breeze. As I am sure most beginners find, the first four or five planks went on very easily and I thought to myself, "this isn't hard at all", but soon I was needing to taper planks and to bend them laterally which I found rather challenging especially around the transom and onto the deadwood area. I only needed a couple of stealers and made them (like wedges) as per the DVD instructions but I have since learned that tapering them to a sharp point is not really authentic. I guess it won't matter for the first planking. I used one of those Amati plank benders which crimp the planks to illicit the bend and it worked just fine but I found that later when I came to sanding the planking that the crimps showed through. Perhaps I am not using it properly and squeezing to hard??? Anyway, after several nights, I finished the planking. Overall I was fairly happy with the result as there weren't many hollows or gaps to fill although I did need to fill a little where the planks transitioned from the hull to the deadwood as I was getting a bit of "clinker" effect. Not sure how I should overcome this??? I made a big mistake of using a mixture of undiluted white glue and sawdust from the sanding to fill this area however when it dried it was so hard that I had to sand it for ages and ages to get it down to a smooth finish. I also sanded too heavily on one side where the planks bend around the tuck to the transom. I realize now that this was because in the DVD, the instructor crimps the timber to make the bend but then files it to about 1/2 its original thickness. I didn't take this into account when I started sanding and before I realized, made a nice little hole in the planking. I still need to give the whole hull another sanding but will wait to do this until I finish the deck planking and a few other little jobs. I really enjoyed planking the deck apart from having to color in all the deck edges using a 6B pencil. Because the deck planking is only 0.6mm thick I found that it kept cutting the pencil lead off. Although the instructions call for laying the decking in one long length, I decided to cut them into 100mm lengths to get a more authentic look. I came unstuck because all the planks were of various widths and therefore I had to try plank after plank until I found one that matched the already glued plank perfectly in width. Next time I will keep each cut plank together with the others that come from the same length to avoid this problem. Another thing that seemed odd was that the instructions called for installing mahogany strips to the inside of the bulwark which I duly performed and then the installation of the deck. I had to cut and sand all of the edge planks very accurately so that there were no gaps between these planks and the lining of the bulwark. I would have thought that it would be easier to install the lining to the inside of the bulwark after the deck planking has been laid as it will cover up any small gaps. Is this generally the correct order to do these two tasks??? One thing that is troubling me is that the instructions state that I should epoxy the stern post, stem post and keel to the hull after I finish the second layer of planking. I note that in many of the build logs on MSW these items are fixed after the first layer and then the second layer of planking is butted up against them. This makes more sense to me. Any advice greatly appreciated??? So this is where I am up to and where I will commence adding photos and no doubt asking lots more questions. I have included some photos of my model below. Its a bit rough but I am hoping that my second layer of planking will be much better and hide all of the mistakes I made in the first. Thanks in advance for any hints and advice.
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