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  1. Hello again! I have started second planking but am undecided how to proceed beyond this point. Photos show that midships I need 10 more planks @5mm or a fraction less. At the stern post I have 70mm to fill. I'm minded to put in four stealers, probably half stealers so I don't cut into two adjacent planks. These would be quite short not going much further than frame 13 as marked. The only alternative I can see is to narrow the planks at midships and fan them out towards the stern to gain width. I would need to get more material to do this. I've already got one stealer above the g
  2. Building Arkit Uncle Sam Tug. Fairly simple hull lines, but kit offers only minimal instruction on planking.( which I have never tried before) Have looked at tutorials here and the job seem quite complex. Test fitting of planks gives me pause about results I can achieve. would it be foolish to employ monocoque construction technique regularly used by model aircraft builders? . This would involve roughly fitting various size balsa plates to the forms, filling gaps and easily sanding to desired form — and then laying covering material ( in the case of the tug, mahogany planks)
  3. Hello! I am seeking help with my second planking having made a few errors on the first which I managed to get away with. It was touch and go trying to avoid crowding at the bow. I'm lining the hull with strakes to work out the best runs this time. I've read and think I understand the tutorials but still have a doubt at the bow section. Between the front tip of the garboard strake and the marking strake is 36mm (along the rabbet) but between the tip and red push pin is only 30mm. Should I fit a drop strake around this point I wonder? I tried wetting and bending a previous marker strake but
  4. Well, I'm almost ready to start planking below the waterline on the Great Harry. I've only ever done one previous pair of garboard strakes, and they weren't all that successful. I've read the tutorials and looked at various builds but I just can't figure out - I know the garboard strake is different widths at different points along its run; but is it the same as the widths of the adjoining planks, (the only difference being that the garboard has one edge that is straight)? For example, if there are (say) 15 strakes between the keel and the other reference point you're measuring to
  5. I ordered this kit as soon as it was released but I wanted to finish my Sharpie before diving in. Of course my father found a small boxcar kit that I was hoping to put together first, but since that kit was incomplete I plan on starting this half-hull in the meantime and learning how to plank (hopefully that will set me up well for my next full ship the Alert). So far all I have done is setup my build board: The instructions suggest using 1/4" foam board, I had a sheet of 1/8" so I cut it in half and glued it together (hopefully all my issues are this easily solved 🙂). I trimmed the
  6. This will be my first attempt at planking “correctly”. I did complete AL Bounty Jolly which was planked, but in a strange way (I followed the instructions). I have quite a few projects in the shipyard that are POB and POF so I’d rather start with a less expensive kit and fail then ruin the kits I have already purchased in hopes of learning this hobby. I will be taking this build slow as I have other logs going on, as well as a stressful job and a four year old that I chase around on the weekends. My plan will be to finish this half hull with a stained hull...I’m also
  7. Any ideas how i should cover that cap? In the picture you can see that my lover planks are ending too soon. Can you come up with somekind solution. Frame, copper plates or somethin what covers that part in the end. 😅 Im going to do the rest like it should but i dont know what would be best choice to cover that mistake Kit is from korabel so all planks are precut, if all hope is lost then the last choice is to order new set of planks from korabel span widget
  8. New member in Washington state. Received my first model for Xmas after many years of hints. I’m working on the Perseverance and finished laying the keel a few days ago. Starting the process of hull fairing this evening....
  9. Here's a link to a really neat youtube channel called Tips from a Shipwright. One of the things I particularly enjoy about model shipmaking is the extent to which many aspects of the modelling process resemble actual ship building. Planking in particular. I wonder if any aspects of the techniques shown above can be adapted to the modeller's scale...
  10. Just out of curiosity, I was wondering how kit makers are able to provide pre-spiled planking. I have just received one such Russian kit for a longboat in card, and have seen others (such as Chuck's longboat) with laser-cut pre-spiled planks. Is this done with some computer software, or is it that when making a pre-production model the spiled planks are carefully traced, or that paper is laid on the frames or shell to achieve the same outlines? Tony
  11. Hello to this great group. I am new to ship modelling, and I have been doing some online research before tackling my first model. I have looked at several tutorials and forums, trying to get as much information as I can before I tackle my next few steps. I would like to start by thanking you all for your contributions, pictures and videos. It certainly helps. I have started on my first build, a Billings Norden 603, plank on bulkhead construction. I am about to start the framing, and have a bunch of questions and some comments, so I thought I would ask them all in one posting. Pla
  12. I am a relative newcomer to the Forum and hope that this topic hasn't been discussed to death. In the time that I have been on the Forum, I have searched hundreds of threads, but have not seen this particular question discussed. First, I have seen and appreciated all of the opinions about preferred woods, like boxwood, pear, apple and others. But some discussion about why, and discussions of preferred attributes would really be appreciated. However, what I would like to get everyone's opinion on is this: Are there preferred woods for 1. Keel and framin
  13. I realize that this question cannot be answered with absolute uniformity, but I am curious how long you cut your planks for the outer layer of the hull. Looking at photos it seems like many who are working in the common scales, 1:48/1:64/1:80 have planks that are about 6 inches in length, with the width about 3/8 inch and the thickness about 1/16 inch; close to 1 x 5 x 150mm. Is this close to what some of you use?
  14. Hi there folks Does any one know what kind of wood is best for the outer skin of planking if I want a slightly exaggerated (raised) surface grain. I intend painting my model (Lynx) black above the water but don't want it too smooth. The Lynx was hiding in the Chesapeake waterways when she was captured and I doubt she was done up like a show boat. Perhaps there might be ways of raising the grain a little after sanding??? Thanking you all in anticipation Don
  15. Probably a dumb question but how do you use this tool? http://shop.excelblades.com/p/nail-setter Wife and I are still trying to figure out how to use this in getting nails in planks. More accurately, into planks and then frame.
  16. My Tugboat is Developing Leaks! I planked my Anteo tug boat in February of 2015 and completed the model in August. Here's the build log: Anteo Harbour Tug (Panart) This was my first double planked hull, and I was pretty proud of it. And now, less than two years later, the planking is separating at the glue joints due to seasonal movement of the wood. Of course I soaked the basswood planks before gluing them down to make them pliable, so they would have swelled to their maximum width when installed. Now it's winter, the air is dry, and the wood has shrunk. Is this a
  17. Now that I am largely retired, I have the time and inclination to get back to my long-neglected in-progress models. I am working on the Victory Models' Lady Nelson. I am nearly done fairing the hull but have encounterd a problem I could use some advice on. The LN is double-planked and the kit includes 1 mm X 4 mm limewood strips for the first layer and 1 mm X 4 mm walnut strips for the second. I am at the point in the fairing for drawing a bearding line at the stern and tapering the false keel to create a rebate (correct term?) for the plank ends to rest in. The problem is that the false
  18. Hello, everyone! I've been taking some time to read up on all the planking tutorials offered here, and I'm trying to conceptually apply the techniques that I'm learning to my first build, which will begin in a week or two. I believe I understand the planking process in theory, but I've noticed that, with the exception of the "Hull Planking Techniques for Beginners" guide (http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/plankingprojectbeginners.pdf), most of the guides seem to describe a technique in which each individual plank is spiled to fit the lined-off sections on the bulk
  19. I'm about to start planking the hull of the Amati/Victory Models Lady Nelson, and I was hoping to get some feedback on the lines of my proposed planking bands. I basically just divided up the plank widths on my tick strips for each bulkhead by 3 (4 top planks, 5 middle planks, and 4 bottom planks), then tweaked the lines at the bow to be a little more aesthetically pleasing. I'm still considering lowering both lines at the bow to give me a little more space for the upper planks and tighten up the area around the garboard strake. Any and all comments are appreciated! Tha
  20. In all the tutorials that I have read on planking, there is much talk of marking the widths of the planks on the bulkheads to guide you when you start laying your battens. However, there is generally very little discussion of what to do at the bow and stern deadwood. When taking the measurements of each bulkhead, do we also include the deadwood area, following the line of the bulkhead down into this area? Should we mark the widths of the planks at the stem and on the deadwood area, as well? It makes sense to me that this would the correct way to proceed. Is that right?
  21. So, I've made the decision to spile all the planks for my upcoming build, as I love the look and fit of spiled planks. I'll basically be cutting each plank from a piece of sheetwood, by hand. While I will be using masking tape to trace the curve of the last plank in order to trace out my spiled plank, I'm still going to need a way to smoothly connect the dots that mark the widths of the proposed plank at each bulkhead on the other side, to complete the outline of the plank. Many people use's a set of ship's curves for this purpose, but I've been looking at the ACU-ARC adjustable curve ruler
  22. I just finished the first and only layer of planking on my Fair American. This being my first attempt at hull planking, I am very happy with the outcome. I used the 3/16" x 1/16" basswood strips supplied with the kit. The results can be seen here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10334-fair-american-by-captainjerry-model-shipways/page-3 This hull has a lot of sheer and a fair amount of drag. The distance from the keel to the wales is much greater at the stern than it is at the stem so it is clear that the planking will need to taper toward the bow, There are a few rules t
  23. Hi, Im what I describe as a Re-Newbie, as it's been so long since my last kit model. I'm about to start on the Heller 1/100 HMS Victory. While this is plastic I'd like to add a set of wood decks. Simply because. Working with wood is no problem as I've been making scratch models of furniture for years. Usually 1/1 scale :-). I was a cabinetmaker until illness. But enough of that. I'm struggling to find any idea of how the planks were laid out, what size they should be, width and length, how far the treenails should be placed. Anything really. I'm not after über accurate just looks good
  24. Hi, Am new to this forum but have been making model boat kits for around a year now. To practice planking techniques I started with the kits which had to be smoothed and painted as the full size ships / boats were steel hulled. I'm now moving on to older ships which have timber hulls and have been trying to do some research on the web I'm part way through a build for the HMS Halifax - originally built in Nova Scotia in 1768 and have been studying other builds - both kit and scratch. The kit comes supplied with mahogany, but I see from many images that above the water line, mos
  25. Greetings to all from northern NSW In 2006, I commenced building the Artesania Latina H. M. S. Endeavour before work, family and moving house interfered. Eight years later, I'd like to continue. This is my first build. Looking at the model, I think the decking is OK but the planking needs attention before continuing. Photos are attached for your scrutiny! I would imagine experienced modelers would probably say the first planking isn't too bad but the flaring of the bulkheads wasn't done well. They might also say that the second planking is totally wrong. The reason for this po
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