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Found 39 results

  1. This will be my first attempt at planking “correctly”. I did complete AL Bounty Jolly which was planked, but in a strange way (I followed the instructions). I have quite a few projects in the shipyard that are POB and POF so I’d rather start with a less expensive kit and fail then ruin the kits I have already purchased in hopes of learning this hobby. I will be taking this build slow as I have other logs going on, as well as a stressful job and a four year old that I chase around on the weekends. My plan will be to finish this half hull with a stained hull...I’m also contemplating coppering the hull as a learning experience as well.
  2. Any ideas how i should cover that cap? In the picture you can see that my lover planks are ending too soon. Can you come up with somekind solution. Frame, copper plates or somethin what covers that part in the end. 😅 Im going to do the rest like it should but i dont know what would be best choice to cover that mistake Kit is from korabel so all planks are precut, if all hope is lost then the last choice is to order new set of planks from korabel span widget
  3. Good Evening All This is not the most positive way to start a build log but I guess it was to be expected for a newbie like myself. So I have finally received my HMS Pegasus from Amati. The box is barely open and I already have problems. This would be a great point to recommend a build log or other resource for this build. I have found many but Im struggling on that covers the finer details that a rookie like myself needs. The instructions make no reference to a rabbet or bearding line, I have however come across reference to this in virtually every single build log that I have read on the vessel. My extreme lack of experience has lead me to several questions regarding these two subjects. 1. Rabbet line: - Am I correct in saying that they should be cut from the very bow to the very stern(excluding the vertical portion of the stern as indicated between the red arrows) -Should this line be cut 1.5mm "tall" and 1.25mm "deep" on either side of the false keel? -Do I need to sand the true keel down from 5mm to 2.5mm to match the width of the false keel after being cut down for the rabbet line?(this doesn's seem to make a hue amount of sense but it seems like this is what some people have done on some of the photos that I have seen. 2. Bearding line: - how do I determine where to draw the bearding line? - should the false keel be tapered evenly from the bearding line down to the rabbet line? - the instructions say "the stern area of the false keel to which the rudder post will be glued is to be sanded to roughly half the original width" does this essentially mean that I should sand from the bearding line to the vertical portion of the stern as well as the rabbet line(so that it tapers to the edge of the keel both vertically and horizontally?) Thanks a million in advance!
  4. New member in Washington state. Received my first model for Xmas after many years of hints. I’m working on the Perseverance and finished laying the keel a few days ago. Starting the process of hull fairing this evening....
  5. Here's a link to a really neat youtube channel called Tips from a Shipwright. One of the things I particularly enjoy about model shipmaking is the extent to which many aspects of the modelling process resemble actual ship building. Planking in particular. I wonder if any aspects of the techniques shown above can be adapted to the modeller's scale...
  6. Just out of curiosity, I was wondering how kit makers are able to provide pre-spiled planking. I have just received one such Russian kit for a longboat in card, and have seen others (such as Chuck's longboat) with laser-cut pre-spiled planks. Is this done with some computer software, or is it that when making a pre-production model the spiled planks are carefully traced, or that paper is laid on the frames or shell to achieve the same outlines? Tony
  7. Hello to this great group. I am new to ship modelling, and I have been doing some online research before tackling my first model. I have looked at several tutorials and forums, trying to get as much information as I can before I tackle my next few steps. I would like to start by thanking you all for your contributions, pictures and videos. It certainly helps. I have started on my first build, a Billings Norden 603, plank on bulkhead construction. I am about to start the framing, and have a bunch of questions and some comments, so I thought I would ask them all in one posting. Planking Gluing . I have decided to use CA type glue (medium or thick). Hopefully this will avoid pins or clamps but I will have to work fairly fast. I will practise a bit before working on the model. Plank Bending. I have a Hot Shot Steam Cleaner and tried bending some planks. It seems to work fairly well, but will have to experiment a bit more. Broke one board already, and I notice some separation of the wood fibres in the ones that did bend. Maybe I am trying to bend it too quickly. Plank Cutting. I can cut planks to rough length before mounting, using a scalpel or Exacto type knife. But how do you trim planks once they are installed? Let’s say that you need to trim 1/8” at the stern after installing a plank. What is the best way to do that? I imagine using a knife would be difficult. Is there a fine saw that you use? Dremmel? Keel Gluing. This particular ship comes with the keel split in 2 halves. Instructions say to plank first, then glue the keel together. However some people have posted that they glue the keel halves together first, then plank. I think the latter would be more difficult, but planking each half individually might lead to warping. Comments? Hull Finishing. The hull will be a single layer of planking, and will be painted, so I will need to fill in the cracks. I have seen various methods including wood filler and glue & sawdust. Has anyone used gyproc (sheet rock) filler? This works great for nail holes, baseboard joints, etc. so why not for a model? I want to get the hull as smooth as possible – this model scale is 1:30, so a scratch of 1/32” (0.8 mm) equals a gouge of almost 1” (2.5 cm). Ouch. Decking Glue. I have seen several tutorials on how to lay out the wood decking strips. But I haven’t seen anything that tells me what sort of glue to use, or how to fasten the decking in place. I plan to stain this decking to look like a teak deck, so I don’t want any glue residue which will not absorb stain or finish. How do you guys fasten the decking? Scuppers. I plan to add scuppers to this boat. A real boat would have provisions for quick drainage of water from nets, rain, or spray in rough weather. So I will endeavour to cut some scuppers in the perimeter bulwarks. Sorry for all the long winded questions, but I thought it easier to post once vs a whole bunch of individual posts. Thank you in advance for any help and suggestions. Cheers, Gary
  8. I am a relative newcomer to the Forum and hope that this topic hasn't been discussed to death. In the time that I have been on the Forum, I have searched hundreds of threads, but have not seen this particular question discussed. First, I have seen and appreciated all of the opinions about preferred woods, like boxwood, pear, apple and others. But some discussion about why, and discussions of preferred attributes would really be appreciated. However, what I would like to get everyone's opinion on is this: Are there preferred woods for 1. Keel and framing 2 Planking 3. Masts and yards 4. Decoration and ornamentation 5. Carriages and other structures It is apparent that woods with natural colors are often used to highlight particular parts or sections as appropriate. Especially important are opinions about what qualities certain woods have that make each type stand out in exception to another.
  9. I realize that this question cannot be answered with absolute uniformity, but I am curious how long you cut your planks for the outer layer of the hull. Looking at photos it seems like many who are working in the common scales, 1:48/1:64/1:80 have planks that are about 6 inches in length, with the width about 3/8 inch and the thickness about 1/16 inch; close to 1 x 5 x 150mm. Is this close to what some of you use?
  10. Hi there folks Does any one know what kind of wood is best for the outer skin of planking if I want a slightly exaggerated (raised) surface grain. I intend painting my model (Lynx) black above the water but don't want it too smooth. The Lynx was hiding in the Chesapeake waterways when she was captured and I doubt she was done up like a show boat. Perhaps there might be ways of raising the grain a little after sanding??? Thanking you all in anticipation Don
  11. Hi. I have finally begun building wooden ship models after years of gathering tools, resources, watching and learning, practicing on plastic aircraft models etc. I have many models in my collection but opted to build the most expensive one to begin with. Crazy I know, but hear my reason why. My choice is the weekly part Endeavour from magazines from Newsagents. Because it came in weekly parts, it ended up being a very expensive model. BUT...It had comprehensive, step-by-step, fully illustrated build instructions. Because it was published weekly, some parts of the build required waiting for the next week's issue to continue, and therein lay my problem. The deck comes in several sections, and the instructions required you to place deck planks on that section, and have some overlay awaiting the next deck section. Now, I did wait till I had ALL the weekly parts, and COULD have continued on immediately, but I chose to compartmentalise the build into weekly build sessions for personal reasons. So the overhanging deck planks interspaced with empty decking areas that will have deck planks placed in the next issue or build session got a bit dry I suppose, and when gluing the next section of planks, the planks tended to "rise" up a bit and not sit flat. I hope the attached photo illustrates the planks sitting off the deck, and not quite glued down correctly. So that's my problem...how do I fix this? I thought perhaps I'd water down some white glue until it was very watery, suck it up into a syringe with a needle, then try to carefully squirt it under the lifting planks and place some kind of weight on it to help it "sit down" properly. Does any experienced ship builder have any other ideas? Any help will be gratefully received. I am really at a loss, and that solution seems like it might work, but I don't want to mess it up. Sure, I have enough planking (and better good quality stuff too) but I want to build this first model out of the box, no scratch building. Can anyone provide a solution? Any suggestions for a better way? Or helpful suggestions for my method. What sort of weight can I use that will not stick to the deck without damaging it? Can I just squirt on a thin layer of white glue and hope it will seep in under the planks? As I said, any help at all will be gratefully accepted. Thanks in advance Steve
  12. Hi everyone - I am relatively new to ship building and have run into a problem/question. I am building Artesania Latina HMS Bounty Jolly Boat and am confused how to incorporate the Keel. I've attached some pictures of my progress. I have already decided that I will do a second layer of planking and therefore decided to use some putty to fill in some gaps in the planking rather than additional small pieces of wood. As I was sanding down the bow, I decided to test the fit of the keel piece and noticed that the inner curve of the keel does not match the curve of the hull-- at all! Since I already was going to second plank, should i fill this huge gap with putty? should I do something else? I am really confused and would love some guidance. Thanks, Erin
  13. Probably a dumb question but how do you use this tool? http://shop.excelblades.com/p/nail-setter Wife and I are still trying to figure out how to use this in getting nails in planks. More accurately, into planks and then frame.
  14. My Tugboat is Developing Leaks! I planked my Anteo tug boat in February of 2015 and completed the model in August. Here's the build log: Anteo Harbour Tug (Panart) This was my first double planked hull, and I was pretty proud of it. And now, less than two years later, the planking is separating at the glue joints due to seasonal movement of the wood. Of course I soaked the basswood planks before gluing them down to make them pliable, so they would have swelled to their maximum width when installed. Now it's winter, the air is dry, and the wood has shrunk. Is this a common problem? Is there any way to avoid it?
  15. Now that I am largely retired, I have the time and inclination to get back to my long-neglected in-progress models. I am working on the Victory Models' Lady Nelson. I am nearly done fairing the hull but have encounterd a problem I could use some advice on. The LN is double-planked and the kit includes 1 mm X 4 mm limewood strips for the first layer and 1 mm X 4 mm walnut strips for the second. I am at the point in the fairing for drawing a bearding line at the stern and tapering the false keel to create a rebate (correct term?) for the plank ends to rest in. The problem is that the false keel and the sternpost are both 3 mm thick, but the thickness of two layers of planking is 2 mm on each side. Obviously, 2 mm of rebate on both sides is not possible. The sketch shown below illustrates the problem. I'm a bit stymied on what to do. I do intend to replace the kit's 2nd plank walnut strips with boxwood which I wll cut myself. One possible solution would be to replace both the limewood and walnut with thinner strips, say 0.5 mm. That would allow me to carve a proper rebate and still leave 1 mm of thickness in the false keep (and have the added benefit of making the strips easier to bend). My concern with this is, would losing 1 mm of planking thickness on each side of the hull degrade the accuracy of the hull shape? (Assuming the kit was designed with such accuracy.) Has anyone else encountered this problem? Suggested solutions for addressing it would be most welcome.
  16. Hello, everyone! I've been taking some time to read up on all the planking tutorials offered here, and I'm trying to conceptually apply the techniques that I'm learning to my first build, which will begin in a week or two. I believe I understand the planking process in theory, but I've noticed that, with the exception of the "Hull Planking Techniques for Beginners" guide (http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/plankingprojectbeginners.pdf), most of the guides seem to describe a technique in which each individual plank is spiled to fit the lined-off sections on the bulkheads. While this method seems easy to understand and certainly appears to provide a beautiful fit and a great-looking hull in the end, it requires you to use your own wood, as the spiled planks you cut out require stock that is wider than the planks that are included with the kit. This method seems ideal to me, as it puts less stress on the planks, and seems to make for an easier planking process, as long as you take your time cutting out each plank as perfectly as possible. However, I'd like to strengthen my understanding of the process used if one were to plank using the strips of wood included with the kit itself (for the sake of clarity, I've written my questions in bold). Based on the guide, it would appear that, in this case, you are to use the measurements of your lined-off bulkheads to plot a curve along the top side of each plank (i.e., the upper edge of the plank when the model is upright, with the keel on the bottom, as if the ship were sitting in the water). The top edge of the plank is then tapered along this curve (without ever tapering the bottom edge of the plank), minor adjustments are made, and the plank is moistened and heated, then bent over the bulkheads and clamped, where it is allowed to dry in order to take the shape of the hull. Once dry, the plank can be adhered to the bulkheads. Is this correct? From what I have read, the only plank to which this method does not apply is the garboard strake, which is tapered along its bottom edge to match the curve formed by the bottom edges of the bulkhead where they meet the keel. The top edge of the garboard strake (when the hull is positioned upright) is not tapered. Do I have that right? Finally, I'm curious about the wale. Is this where most people start planking, working down to the keel? Is this plank tapered at all? If so, which edge is tapered -- top or bottom? While I had originally assumed that I would simply plank my hull using the strips that come with the kit, I've become quite interested in the spiling technique, as the hulls I've seen that result from the use of this technique look amazing. My kit has not arrived yet, so I do not yet know the thickness of the planks that are included with it. If I were to acquire some 1/16"-thick sheets of basswood, would this thickness be comparable to the thickness of most first-layer planks that come with these kits, or is 1/16" too thick? I appreciate the help, guys!
  17. I'm about to start planking the hull of the Amati/Victory Models Lady Nelson, and I was hoping to get some feedback on the lines of my proposed planking bands. I basically just divided up the plank widths on my tick strips for each bulkhead by 3 (4 top planks, 5 middle planks, and 4 bottom planks), then tweaked the lines at the bow to be a little more aesthetically pleasing. I'm still considering lowering both lines at the bow to give me a little more space for the upper planks and tighten up the area around the garboard strake. Any and all comments are appreciated! Thanks!
  18. In all the tutorials that I have read on planking, there is much talk of marking the widths of the planks on the bulkheads to guide you when you start laying your battens. However, there is generally very little discussion of what to do at the bow and stern deadwood. When taking the measurements of each bulkhead, do we also include the deadwood area, following the line of the bulkhead down into this area? Should we mark the widths of the planks at the stem and on the deadwood area, as well? It makes sense to me that this would the correct way to proceed. Is that right?
  19. So, I've made the decision to spile all the planks for my upcoming build, as I love the look and fit of spiled planks. I'll basically be cutting each plank from a piece of sheetwood, by hand. While I will be using masking tape to trace the curve of the last plank in order to trace out my spiled plank, I'm still going to need a way to smoothly connect the dots that mark the widths of the proposed plank at each bulkhead on the other side, to complete the outline of the plank. Many people use's a set of ship's curves for this purpose, but I've been looking at the ACU-ARC adjustable curve ruler as an alternative. It looks like this: Basically, it consists of a number of flexible plastic strips bunched together. You can flex the ruler to meet the points you've marked and it will hold its shape due to the friction between the strips. You then simply trace along the flat edge to make your line. I'm wondering if this might be a better choice, since it will provide a nice smooth curve from start to finish, rather than using the traditional method of finding the best fit for a portion of the points with a ship's curve and repeating the process until the line is complete. What do you guys think? Also, one of the things I'm worried about is not currently owning a scroll saw... As it is, my only option seems to be cutting the rough shape of each plank out of the thin sheetwood using an X-Acto blade, then filing/sanding to the final shape. How easy do you think this will be with basswood and walnut sheetwood ranging from 1/32" to 1/16" thick? If I do decide to purchase a scroll saw, what type of blade should I get to smoothly cut sheetwood in this thickness range? I'm assuming I'd be looking for one with a high number of teeth-per-inch. Do you guys have any suggestions for the proper TPI range? My last question refers to the method of laying the tape in order to trace the correct curve of the last plank. I've read some descriptions of this process (and seen a few pictures), but I want to make sure I have this right. The correct method, as I understand it, is to lay the tape so that the portion of the tape that is laying on the existing plank is smooth, with no wrinkles or bends. The other edge of the tape (i.e., the portion that's hanging over the edge of the existing plank) can be a little wrinkled without affecting the accuracy of the curve you're tracing. Is that right? I've tested this method on the rim of a glass that is wider at the mouth than at the base, and I ended up with a nice curved strip that wrapped around the glass and was perfectly parallel to the rim of the glass, so it seems to be a good way of doing it. What do you guys think? As always, thanks for your advice, opinions, and assistance!
  20. I just finished the first and only layer of planking on my Fair American. This being my first attempt at hull planking, I am very happy with the outcome. I used the 3/16" x 1/16" basswood strips supplied with the kit. The results can be seen here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10334-fair-american-by-captainjerry-model-shipways/page-3 This hull has a lot of sheer and a fair amount of drag. The distance from the keel to the wales is much greater at the stern than it is at the stem so it is clear that the planking will need to taper toward the bow, There are a few rules to follow. Too my eye, one of the most important is that a plank should not taper to less than half of it's maximum width. Pointy little planks at the bow look funny. My personal opinion is that while a plank may taper towards both ends, it should not then flair out at the end. To do so seems to indicate a narrowing of the hull in a kind of wasp waist shape. That might be done in modern high speed vessels but not on an 18th century vessel. Such a recurve line might also indicate an improperly tapered adjoining plank. I used steelers ( 2 at the stern ), and drop planks ( 2 at the bow ). I have always admired a well fitted steeler or drop plank and while my efforts are just that, a first effort, and not an example of the best, I don't understand the may posts that seem to indicate that a steeler is evidence of poor planning. Were steelers and drops not used on real ships? Was it a sign of poor design or a sloppy shipyard? Jerry (edit note) Link corrected, Try again if you got redirected to the wrong thread.
  21. Hi, Im what I describe as a Re-Newbie, as it's been so long since my last kit model. I'm about to start on the Heller 1/100 HMS Victory. While this is plastic I'd like to add a set of wood decks. Simply because. Working with wood is no problem as I've been making scratch models of furniture for years. Usually 1/1 scale :-). I was a cabinetmaker until illness. But enough of that. I'm struggling to find any idea of how the planks were laid out, what size they should be, width and length, how far the treenails should be placed. Anything really. I'm not after über accurate just looks good. Can anyone help, with anything even just a link or decent image. Thanks Izzy
  22. Hi, Am new to this forum but have been making model boat kits for around a year now. To practice planking techniques I started with the kits which had to be smoothed and painted as the full size ships / boats were steel hulled. I'm now moving on to older ships which have timber hulls and have been trying to do some research on the web I'm part way through a build for the HMS Halifax - originally built in Nova Scotia in 1768 and have been studying other builds - both kit and scratch. The kit comes supplied with mahogany, but I see from many images that above the water line, most modellers have chosen different wood for the planking. I understand that most ships of the time would have been painted in one form or another, but I think the models look good using natural wood finish as it shows the planking workmanship off - for better or worse! What I'm unable to find during my research for this and a couple of future builds is what the full size ship was actually planked in. I've found reference to type of timber harvested in the 1800's from Nova Scotia as this would be the logical timber used for ship building in this area but there is a large variety of tree's being harvested and suspect many would be unsuitable for ship building. What I'm also unable to determine is if they would have imported hardwoods even though they had a ready supply of other timbers grown locally. Also complicating things is once the ship was transferred to the British - was it refurbished with native woods, or possibly even imported hardwoods such as from India etc. For a ship that is apparently very well documented I'm really struggling to find the answer - I suppose at the end of the day, most would think it unimportant and to finish as I see pleasing but would like to try and at least be true to the original ship. I'm also ignoring using nails supplied with the kit and intend to use 'tree nails' (apologies if this is not correct term as all these shipping terminology is sometimes confusing to a newbee landlubber!) - so I'll be reducing some dowel wood or other to suitable dimension to represent the original fixings and same issue applies - were these made from the same timber as the planks or were they different (other kits I've used this technique on were basewood planking so the use of toothpicks passed through a tremel achieved a result that was pleasing as the 2 woods were close in colour but different enough that you could see the actual dowel heads) - if the same wood not sure if the fixings would stand out sufficiently to make the extra effort worthwhile but using a different wood completely would look a bit wrong. Any advise or help would be greatly welcome. Next builds in no particular order will be the Thermopylae, Cutty Sark and Norske Love so same issue again, though I plan on copper sheathing the Cutty Sark at least. Regards
  23. We all know the Vikings had a number of different types of ships, and they used iron bolts in their planking and general construction, but were they the first to use iron bolts? Did Greece use these methods centuries before A. D.? Here's a link showing a couple planking techniques of the Viking vessels: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CB4QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.viking.ucla.edu%2Fzori%2Fzori_nails_rivets_and_clench_bolts.pdf&ei=c7GNVYfpNo-pogTHhYGoBw&usg=AFQjCNGHVsBtwRlkHUV1Edpmwjkpt3VLIA Here's a couple pics of a couple Viking ship's planking using these bolts.
  24. In 2010 I started a blog on this first build. The blog continued for perhaps 6 months when model ended up behind cupboard doors next to the Christmas tree decorations and a pile of books on boat building and rigging. Last week the hull found its way back to the building board for final stage of planking. . After three years of abstinence I had to get it all back in my fingers again; wood bending and cutting, doing all the checks before application of glue, getting it right My old MSW account and blog are gone, but I still got the pictures: Purchased by my dad somewhere in the eighties The instruction drawing, the big white area pretty much sums up the Corel planking instructions; must have left my dad with a huge question mark above his head and perhaps explains why it took a next generation to muster the courage to add glue to the various components - with inspiration derived from internet, especially MSW. I suppose Corel must have taken note of the work of Frederick af Chapman. Fredrik Henrik af Chapman http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fredrik_Henrik_af_Chapman the Ketch, no. 3 in Chapmans' Architectura Navalis Mercatoria, published in 1768. The book contained 62 illustrations of ships and smaller vessels, both Swedish and foreign designs. Some of these were Chapman's own designs, but many were also types that he had seen during visits to foreign countries. Everything from large warships to small fishing vessels were represented (Source: wikipedia). Set up of frames Solid Surinam hardwood handle keeping everything in check [ Many planking instructions suggest you should divide the space over the frames evenly according to the number of planks and then taper and hang the planks accordingly,thats what I did with the first layer of planking. Its wrong. With 5 mm planks the planks decide how they run, they are too narrow to allow for spiling, only with wide enough planks (planks which allow for spiling) the planker may devide the space according to his will looks like its made of match sticks But add filler and sand it all down, and youre ok.. with first layer, that is addition of false stems and keel (not included in kit), made from oak Problem: the instructed planking scheme for the second layer does not match the dimensions of the first layer as defined by the frames, I therefore find it necessary to heighten the bull warks therewith altering the the side profile / the run of the gunwale. And commence planking of second layer, I then find this picture on the internet... A revelation: planks do not necessary end at the bow but may turn upward and form "saddlebags" underneath the whales. Saddlebag After completion of the saddlebags (the segments which require dropplanks) I commenced at the keel with the lower concave sections (the sections which require stealers). . I let the first planks envelop the stem The two sections meet at the one plank which connects straight and free from bow to stern Another important find is that all you need for woodbending is a glass of water and a candle Stick the end of the wood in the glass, and let it soak until its wet about 3 cm above the water, then you know its soaked enough...then hold it above the candle and bend it, you will feel the wood give in. Dont overbend it, you cant bend it back. If the wood burns easily it probably means you did not soak long enough. If the wood dries up on the outside while heating use a brush to keep the wood wet on the outside of the bend. Do not only bend the wood but give it the right twist at the same time.. to ensure stress free gluing... for each and every plank.. [to be continued]
  25. In 1988, at the age of 35, I bought the cross-section model kit of the Constitution from Mamoli, (which is still available). During a long illness at that time, I built the bulkhead, easily planked the 70mm length surface and carved the multi-deck furniture. I put it away at that stage, having returned to health and work. Admittedly, I was also intimidated by the rigging and mast/spar construction ahead. Over the years, I made sure to preserve the model, though not very delicately. I must have used good glue as I lost no parts or furniture. Now I'm 61 and returned to this Constitution about 8 months ago. I thoroughly enjoyed finishing up all the fittings and furniture. I then tackled the rigging. Other than some basic work, I left it without finishing the mast, spars, shrouds or sails. I am pleased and proud of it anyway as this was my first build. My second build was just finished - the Gretel by Mamoli. It is an 18th Dutch pleasure yacht, which was the early era of such vessels. The whole construction took me about 8 weeks. I now realize how rushed that time frame was. The planking was difficult but I pushed ahead without reading up on this skill. The finished product was flawed, with gaps and razor thin splines. But the decking, mast, spars, gaffs and wood fittings went very well. And this time I completed the rigging! Mamoli makes challenging models in my opinion, with skimpy supplies and inaccurate plans. I had to make a lot of emergency alterations because of some misleading illustrations and quality issues. I do have to say the wood was top quality (except one warped delaminated plywood deck). Now, on to my third build, which I share here. I'll need support and advice on this project! Pilar made by Constructo. I ordered the Pilar because it will require a lot of planking. I didn't do even a good job on the Gretel, so I now have an eighteen inch long model to be completely planked, top to bottom. Great practice! The romance of the Pilar being Ernest Hemingway's yacht also makes it even more interesting to build. The original boat still resides in a Hemingway museum in Cuba. I received the kit via UPS from Florida to Boston today in great condition. I opened the box and saw that all the plastic bags of parts had shifted out of their compartments. The attached pictures depict the contents that I had to reorganized by part number / step. Mamoli had a hard, transparent lid that sealed each compartment, so that parts were less likely to get lost. The first problem I am encountering was evident when I removed the timber. Other than the thicker lime for the first planking, the wood is a mystery. There is one bundle of a single species, which is encouraging if I can figure out what species it is and where it will go. The other two bundles contain a variety of unmarked wood in different shapes, thicknesses and species. These woods are exotic, not the standard walnut or mahogany. Very confusing and irritating. Signing off for now from this first post. Thanks for reading. I promise to be less wordy in the future as the build progresses. First thing is for me to read the instruction booklet and plans, then read it again, and then it read for the third time. No rushing!

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