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Found 33 results

  1. Well, I'm almost ready to start planking below the waterline on the Great Harry. I've only ever done one previous pair of garboard strakes, and they weren't all that successful. I've read the tutorials and looked at various builds but I just can't figure out - I know the garboard strake is different widths at different points along its run; but is it the same as the widths of the adjoining planks, (the only difference being that the garboard has one edge that is straight)? For example, if there are (say) 15 strakes between the keel and the other reference point you're measuring to, is the width of the garboard at any given frame 1/15th of the distance measured along that frame ? This has always been a puzzle to me , and I don't want to start planking before I'm sure I know what I'm doing. Thanks, Steven
  2. I ordered this kit as soon as it was released but I wanted to finish my Sharpie before diving in. Of course my father found a small boxcar kit that I was hoping to put together first, but since that kit was incomplete I plan on starting this half-hull in the meantime and learning how to plank (hopefully that will set me up well for my next full ship the Alert). So far all I have done is setup my build board: The instructions suggest using 1/4" foam board, I had a sheet of 1/8" so I cut it in half and glued it together (hopefully all my issues are this easily solved 🙂). I trimmed the board down to the plan sheet and applied tape around the edge to stop bits of foam from following me everywhere and to make certain that the plan was firmly secured to the board (I did first glue it with Elmer's craft bond spray adhesive). Currently I'm sanding the edges of the keel, keelson, stem, deadwood and stern pieces to remove the laser char.
  3. This will be my first attempt at planking “correctly”. I did complete AL Bounty Jolly which was planked, but in a strange way (I followed the instructions). I have quite a few projects in the shipyard that are POB and POF so I’d rather start with a less expensive kit and fail then ruin the kits I have already purchased in hopes of learning this hobby. I will be taking this build slow as I have other logs going on, as well as a stressful job and a four year old that I chase around on the weekends. My plan will be to finish this half hull with a stained hull...I’m also contemplating coppering the hull as a learning experience as well.
  4. Any ideas how i should cover that cap? In the picture you can see that my lover planks are ending too soon. Can you come up with somekind solution. Frame, copper plates or somethin what covers that part in the end. 😅 Im going to do the rest like it should but i dont know what would be best choice to cover that mistake Kit is from korabel so all planks are precut, if all hope is lost then the last choice is to order new set of planks from korabel span widget
  5. New member in Washington state. Received my first model for Xmas after many years of hints. I’m working on the Perseverance and finished laying the keel a few days ago. Starting the process of hull fairing this evening....
  6. Here's a link to a really neat youtube channel called Tips from a Shipwright. One of the things I particularly enjoy about model shipmaking is the extent to which many aspects of the modelling process resemble actual ship building. Planking in particular. I wonder if any aspects of the techniques shown above can be adapted to the modeller's scale...
  7. Just out of curiosity, I was wondering how kit makers are able to provide pre-spiled planking. I have just received one such Russian kit for a longboat in card, and have seen others (such as Chuck's longboat) with laser-cut pre-spiled planks. Is this done with some computer software, or is it that when making a pre-production model the spiled planks are carefully traced, or that paper is laid on the frames or shell to achieve the same outlines? Tony
  8. Hello to this great group. I am new to ship modelling, and I have been doing some online research before tackling my first model. I have looked at several tutorials and forums, trying to get as much information as I can before I tackle my next few steps. I would like to start by thanking you all for your contributions, pictures and videos. It certainly helps. I have started on my first build, a Billings Norden 603, plank on bulkhead construction. I am about to start the framing, and have a bunch of questions and some comments, so I thought I would ask them all in one posting. Planking Gluing . I have decided to use CA type glue (medium or thick). Hopefully this will avoid pins or clamps but I will have to work fairly fast. I will practise a bit before working on the model. Plank Bending. I have a Hot Shot Steam Cleaner and tried bending some planks. It seems to work fairly well, but will have to experiment a bit more. Broke one board already, and I notice some separation of the wood fibres in the ones that did bend. Maybe I am trying to bend it too quickly. Plank Cutting. I can cut planks to rough length before mounting, using a scalpel or Exacto type knife. But how do you trim planks once they are installed? Let’s say that you need to trim 1/8” at the stern after installing a plank. What is the best way to do that? I imagine using a knife would be difficult. Is there a fine saw that you use? Dremmel? Keel Gluing. This particular ship comes with the keel split in 2 halves. Instructions say to plank first, then glue the keel together. However some people have posted that they glue the keel halves together first, then plank. I think the latter would be more difficult, but planking each half individually might lead to warping. Comments? Hull Finishing. The hull will be a single layer of planking, and will be painted, so I will need to fill in the cracks. I have seen various methods including wood filler and glue & sawdust. Has anyone used gyproc (sheet rock) filler? This works great for nail holes, baseboard joints, etc. so why not for a model? I want to get the hull as smooth as possible – this model scale is 1:30, so a scratch of 1/32” (0.8 mm) equals a gouge of almost 1” (2.5 cm). Ouch. Decking Glue. I have seen several tutorials on how to lay out the wood decking strips. But I haven’t seen anything that tells me what sort of glue to use, or how to fasten the decking in place. I plan to stain this decking to look like a teak deck, so I don’t want any glue residue which will not absorb stain or finish. How do you guys fasten the decking? Scuppers. I plan to add scuppers to this boat. A real boat would have provisions for quick drainage of water from nets, rain, or spray in rough weather. So I will endeavour to cut some scuppers in the perimeter bulwarks. Sorry for all the long winded questions, but I thought it easier to post once vs a whole bunch of individual posts. Thank you in advance for any help and suggestions. Cheers, Gary
  9. I am a relative newcomer to the Forum and hope that this topic hasn't been discussed to death. In the time that I have been on the Forum, I have searched hundreds of threads, but have not seen this particular question discussed. First, I have seen and appreciated all of the opinions about preferred woods, like boxwood, pear, apple and others. But some discussion about why, and discussions of preferred attributes would really be appreciated. However, what I would like to get everyone's opinion on is this: Are there preferred woods for 1. Keel and framing 2 Planking 3. Masts and yards 4. Decoration and ornamentation 5. Carriages and other structures It is apparent that woods with natural colors are often used to highlight particular parts or sections as appropriate. Especially important are opinions about what qualities certain woods have that make each type stand out in exception to another.
  10. I realize that this question cannot be answered with absolute uniformity, but I am curious how long you cut your planks for the outer layer of the hull. Looking at photos it seems like many who are working in the common scales, 1:48/1:64/1:80 have planks that are about 6 inches in length, with the width about 3/8 inch and the thickness about 1/16 inch; close to 1 x 5 x 150mm. Is this close to what some of you use?
  11. Hi there folks Does any one know what kind of wood is best for the outer skin of planking if I want a slightly exaggerated (raised) surface grain. I intend painting my model (Lynx) black above the water but don't want it too smooth. The Lynx was hiding in the Chesapeake waterways when she was captured and I doubt she was done up like a show boat. Perhaps there might be ways of raising the grain a little after sanding??? Thanking you all in anticipation Don
  12. Probably a dumb question but how do you use this tool? http://shop.excelblades.com/p/nail-setter Wife and I are still trying to figure out how to use this in getting nails in planks. More accurately, into planks and then frame.
  13. My Tugboat is Developing Leaks! I planked my Anteo tug boat in February of 2015 and completed the model in August. Here's the build log: Anteo Harbour Tug (Panart) This was my first double planked hull, and I was pretty proud of it. And now, less than two years later, the planking is separating at the glue joints due to seasonal movement of the wood. Of course I soaked the basswood planks before gluing them down to make them pliable, so they would have swelled to their maximum width when installed. Now it's winter, the air is dry, and the wood has shrunk. Is this a common problem? Is there any way to avoid it?
  14. Now that I am largely retired, I have the time and inclination to get back to my long-neglected in-progress models. I am working on the Victory Models' Lady Nelson. I am nearly done fairing the hull but have encounterd a problem I could use some advice on. The LN is double-planked and the kit includes 1 mm X 4 mm limewood strips for the first layer and 1 mm X 4 mm walnut strips for the second. I am at the point in the fairing for drawing a bearding line at the stern and tapering the false keel to create a rebate (correct term?) for the plank ends to rest in. The problem is that the false keel and the sternpost are both 3 mm thick, but the thickness of two layers of planking is 2 mm on each side. Obviously, 2 mm of rebate on both sides is not possible. The sketch shown below illustrates the problem. I'm a bit stymied on what to do. I do intend to replace the kit's 2nd plank walnut strips with boxwood which I wll cut myself. One possible solution would be to replace both the limewood and walnut with thinner strips, say 0.5 mm. That would allow me to carve a proper rebate and still leave 1 mm of thickness in the false keep (and have the added benefit of making the strips easier to bend). My concern with this is, would losing 1 mm of planking thickness on each side of the hull degrade the accuracy of the hull shape? (Assuming the kit was designed with such accuracy.) Has anyone else encountered this problem? Suggested solutions for addressing it would be most welcome.
  15. Hello, everyone! I've been taking some time to read up on all the planking tutorials offered here, and I'm trying to conceptually apply the techniques that I'm learning to my first build, which will begin in a week or two. I believe I understand the planking process in theory, but I've noticed that, with the exception of the "Hull Planking Techniques for Beginners" guide (http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/plankingprojectbeginners.pdf), most of the guides seem to describe a technique in which each individual plank is spiled to fit the lined-off sections on the bulkheads. While this method seems easy to understand and certainly appears to provide a beautiful fit and a great-looking hull in the end, it requires you to use your own wood, as the spiled planks you cut out require stock that is wider than the planks that are included with the kit. This method seems ideal to me, as it puts less stress on the planks, and seems to make for an easier planking process, as long as you take your time cutting out each plank as perfectly as possible. However, I'd like to strengthen my understanding of the process used if one were to plank using the strips of wood included with the kit itself (for the sake of clarity, I've written my questions in bold). Based on the guide, it would appear that, in this case, you are to use the measurements of your lined-off bulkheads to plot a curve along the top side of each plank (i.e., the upper edge of the plank when the model is upright, with the keel on the bottom, as if the ship were sitting in the water). The top edge of the plank is then tapered along this curve (without ever tapering the bottom edge of the plank), minor adjustments are made, and the plank is moistened and heated, then bent over the bulkheads and clamped, where it is allowed to dry in order to take the shape of the hull. Once dry, the plank can be adhered to the bulkheads. Is this correct? From what I have read, the only plank to which this method does not apply is the garboard strake, which is tapered along its bottom edge to match the curve formed by the bottom edges of the bulkhead where they meet the keel. The top edge of the garboard strake (when the hull is positioned upright) is not tapered. Do I have that right? Finally, I'm curious about the wale. Is this where most people start planking, working down to the keel? Is this plank tapered at all? If so, which edge is tapered -- top or bottom? While I had originally assumed that I would simply plank my hull using the strips that come with the kit, I've become quite interested in the spiling technique, as the hulls I've seen that result from the use of this technique look amazing. My kit has not arrived yet, so I do not yet know the thickness of the planks that are included with it. If I were to acquire some 1/16"-thick sheets of basswood, would this thickness be comparable to the thickness of most first-layer planks that come with these kits, or is 1/16" too thick? I appreciate the help, guys!
  16. I'm about to start planking the hull of the Amati/Victory Models Lady Nelson, and I was hoping to get some feedback on the lines of my proposed planking bands. I basically just divided up the plank widths on my tick strips for each bulkhead by 3 (4 top planks, 5 middle planks, and 4 bottom planks), then tweaked the lines at the bow to be a little more aesthetically pleasing. I'm still considering lowering both lines at the bow to give me a little more space for the upper planks and tighten up the area around the garboard strake. Any and all comments are appreciated! Thanks!
  17. In all the tutorials that I have read on planking, there is much talk of marking the widths of the planks on the bulkheads to guide you when you start laying your battens. However, there is generally very little discussion of what to do at the bow and stern deadwood. When taking the measurements of each bulkhead, do we also include the deadwood area, following the line of the bulkhead down into this area? Should we mark the widths of the planks at the stem and on the deadwood area, as well? It makes sense to me that this would the correct way to proceed. Is that right?
  18. So, I've made the decision to spile all the planks for my upcoming build, as I love the look and fit of spiled planks. I'll basically be cutting each plank from a piece of sheetwood, by hand. While I will be using masking tape to trace the curve of the last plank in order to trace out my spiled plank, I'm still going to need a way to smoothly connect the dots that mark the widths of the proposed plank at each bulkhead on the other side, to complete the outline of the plank. Many people use's a set of ship's curves for this purpose, but I've been looking at the ACU-ARC adjustable curve ruler as an alternative. It looks like this: Basically, it consists of a number of flexible plastic strips bunched together. You can flex the ruler to meet the points you've marked and it will hold its shape due to the friction between the strips. You then simply trace along the flat edge to make your line. I'm wondering if this might be a better choice, since it will provide a nice smooth curve from start to finish, rather than using the traditional method of finding the best fit for a portion of the points with a ship's curve and repeating the process until the line is complete. What do you guys think? Also, one of the things I'm worried about is not currently owning a scroll saw... As it is, my only option seems to be cutting the rough shape of each plank out of the thin sheetwood using an X-Acto blade, then filing/sanding to the final shape. How easy do you think this will be with basswood and walnut sheetwood ranging from 1/32" to 1/16" thick? If I do decide to purchase a scroll saw, what type of blade should I get to smoothly cut sheetwood in this thickness range? I'm assuming I'd be looking for one with a high number of teeth-per-inch. Do you guys have any suggestions for the proper TPI range? My last question refers to the method of laying the tape in order to trace the correct curve of the last plank. I've read some descriptions of this process (and seen a few pictures), but I want to make sure I have this right. The correct method, as I understand it, is to lay the tape so that the portion of the tape that is laying on the existing plank is smooth, with no wrinkles or bends. The other edge of the tape (i.e., the portion that's hanging over the edge of the existing plank) can be a little wrinkled without affecting the accuracy of the curve you're tracing. Is that right? I've tested this method on the rim of a glass that is wider at the mouth than at the base, and I ended up with a nice curved strip that wrapped around the glass and was perfectly parallel to the rim of the glass, so it seems to be a good way of doing it. What do you guys think? As always, thanks for your advice, opinions, and assistance!
  19. I just finished the first and only layer of planking on my Fair American. This being my first attempt at hull planking, I am very happy with the outcome. I used the 3/16" x 1/16" basswood strips supplied with the kit. The results can be seen here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10334-fair-american-by-captainjerry-model-shipways/page-3 This hull has a lot of sheer and a fair amount of drag. The distance from the keel to the wales is much greater at the stern than it is at the stem so it is clear that the planking will need to taper toward the bow, There are a few rules to follow. Too my eye, one of the most important is that a plank should not taper to less than half of it's maximum width. Pointy little planks at the bow look funny. My personal opinion is that while a plank may taper towards both ends, it should not then flair out at the end. To do so seems to indicate a narrowing of the hull in a kind of wasp waist shape. That might be done in modern high speed vessels but not on an 18th century vessel. Such a recurve line might also indicate an improperly tapered adjoining plank. I used steelers ( 2 at the stern ), and drop planks ( 2 at the bow ). I have always admired a well fitted steeler or drop plank and while my efforts are just that, a first effort, and not an example of the best, I don't understand the may posts that seem to indicate that a steeler is evidence of poor planning. Were steelers and drops not used on real ships? Was it a sign of poor design or a sloppy shipyard? Jerry (edit note) Link corrected, Try again if you got redirected to the wrong thread.
  20. Hi, Im what I describe as a Re-Newbie, as it's been so long since my last kit model. I'm about to start on the Heller 1/100 HMS Victory. While this is plastic I'd like to add a set of wood decks. Simply because. Working with wood is no problem as I've been making scratch models of furniture for years. Usually 1/1 scale :-). I was a cabinetmaker until illness. But enough of that. I'm struggling to find any idea of how the planks were laid out, what size they should be, width and length, how far the treenails should be placed. Anything really. I'm not after über accurate just looks good. Can anyone help, with anything even just a link or decent image. Thanks Izzy
  21. Hi, Am new to this forum but have been making model boat kits for around a year now. To practice planking techniques I started with the kits which had to be smoothed and painted as the full size ships / boats were steel hulled. I'm now moving on to older ships which have timber hulls and have been trying to do some research on the web I'm part way through a build for the HMS Halifax - originally built in Nova Scotia in 1768 and have been studying other builds - both kit and scratch. The kit comes supplied with mahogany, but I see from many images that above the water line, most modellers have chosen different wood for the planking. I understand that most ships of the time would have been painted in one form or another, but I think the models look good using natural wood finish as it shows the planking workmanship off - for better or worse! What I'm unable to find during my research for this and a couple of future builds is what the full size ship was actually planked in. I've found reference to type of timber harvested in the 1800's from Nova Scotia as this would be the logical timber used for ship building in this area but there is a large variety of tree's being harvested and suspect many would be unsuitable for ship building. What I'm also unable to determine is if they would have imported hardwoods even though they had a ready supply of other timbers grown locally. Also complicating things is once the ship was transferred to the British - was it refurbished with native woods, or possibly even imported hardwoods such as from India etc. For a ship that is apparently very well documented I'm really struggling to find the answer - I suppose at the end of the day, most would think it unimportant and to finish as I see pleasing but would like to try and at least be true to the original ship. I'm also ignoring using nails supplied with the kit and intend to use 'tree nails' (apologies if this is not correct term as all these shipping terminology is sometimes confusing to a newbee landlubber!) - so I'll be reducing some dowel wood or other to suitable dimension to represent the original fixings and same issue applies - were these made from the same timber as the planks or were they different (other kits I've used this technique on were basewood planking so the use of toothpicks passed through a tremel achieved a result that was pleasing as the 2 woods were close in colour but different enough that you could see the actual dowel heads) - if the same wood not sure if the fixings would stand out sufficiently to make the extra effort worthwhile but using a different wood completely would look a bit wrong. Any advise or help would be greatly welcome. Next builds in no particular order will be the Thermopylae, Cutty Sark and Norske Love so same issue again, though I plan on copper sheathing the Cutty Sark at least. Regards
  22. Greetings to all from northern NSW In 2006, I commenced building the Artesania Latina H. M. S. Endeavour before work, family and moving house interfered. Eight years later, I'd like to continue. This is my first build. Looking at the model, I think the decking is OK but the planking needs attention before continuing. Photos are attached for your scrutiny! I would imagine experienced modelers would probably say the first planking isn't too bad but the flaring of the bulkheads wasn't done well. They might also say that the second planking is totally wrong. The reason for this post is to seek a little advice if the following thinking is incorrect. I'm thinking about removing the second planking entirely. After that, using filler to better round out the bulkhead issues and then to do do the second planking. To avoid repeating the same mistakes I have downloaded well written planking guides and am rereading Mastini's Ship Modelling Simplified book as well as consulting relevent posts on this forum. If this thinking is wrong or if there is a better way, I'd appreciate any advice that members may give. Thanking you Graham
  23. Ahoy Mates I would like to share with you a trick I have recently found. I take no credit for the discovery of this method but am only posting it as i have found it to be very useful Bending planks around the stern or bow of a ship can be difficult and after kinking many planks I have found that if you "work" the plank first you will be less likely to put a kink in it on your hull All I do is soak the plank in warm water for 10 to 15 minutes. Then I bend it around a 2" PVC connector. Slowly at first and once I get it to bend around this 2.5" circle; I flip the wood and bend it the opposite way. I repeat this, flipping the plank each time until it becomes soft and forms easily around this size circle. It will get more and more pliable with each pass. Then I switch to a large prescription bottle (smaller diameter circle) and repeat the bending process flipping the plank and bending it both ways. Again slowly at first. You will find that after working the plank in this way it will bend much easier on your ship and make the turns needed in the bow or stern without kinking. If I am not mistaken, as I am no expert in this field; all your are doing is softening up the lignin bonds in the wood. For harder or thicker wood; I will sometimes repeat the entire process, I have soaked wood up to three times, working it around my jigs each time and then bending it easily and successfully on my ship where as before it would have kinked.
  24. I'm trying to absorb the tutorials about planking, and having trouble wrapping my head around of couple of the concepts. For starters - With a kit, you're probably given planking material - let's say it's a narrow width of about 1/4 inch. If you're working a hull where almost every plank needs to be curved in order to lay flat on the bulkheads, doesn't that render much, if not all, that material useless? I can't really believe that's the case, yet it seems to me that you'd have to cut most planks by hand out of a much wider sheet of lumber. What am I missing? I'm certainly not arguing with experienced builders; I'm just having a hard time understanding it. Does anyone know of a YouTube video where these concepts are demonstrated? I've seen a couple that "talk" about spiling, but don't show much of value. Also - what, exactly, is the point of lining out the hull (dividing it into 4 or 5 bands to be worked). Some authors go into, after this, a discussion of calculating the number of planks, for a given plank-width, in each band, but to what purpose? Isn't it just going to be whatever it's going to be? Is there a reason to have each band have the same number of planks? There must be more to this than just divide-and-conquer, but I'm not seeing it. Thanks, Mark
  25. Hello A few words on how I use a set of proportional dividers during planking, I hope some of you can find it useful I´m planking HMS Victory and in doing so I´m putting my set of proportional dividers to good use. This tool is not by any meens absolutely nessecary to have if your starting out on your first few kits, but as one gets further in to the hobby one finds that this Little engenious tool has many uses around the ship, one beeing aiding in those precarious tapering jobs during planking. When I first started to look for a set of dividers I noticed that they where not that easy to come by in Sweden and that turned out to be a story in it self. I cant remember how, but I got in contact with a violin builder in germany by the age of 80-something. He apparently also made proportional dividers of different sizes. Now I had little knowledge about theese thingies and what size I needed for my models. This man simply sent me a few samples of his dividers in different sizes stating. - Pay for the one you want and send the rest back !!! So I did just that. You don´t find that kind of confidence and trust in people often theese days, in the years to come I recieved a christmastcard from him every year as probably most of his violincostumers. So what does the dividers do, originaly designed to divide circles in equal parts this tool serves by dividing a sertain distance into equal parts depending on how you set them. I have set the dividers in the Picture to 3 meaning that the smaller pointers will show exactly 1/3 of the distance between the larger ones. Lets get ito it

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