Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'plastic'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • The Captain's Cabin
    • New member Introductions
  • Member's Build Logs
    • Build logs for Ship Model Kits - by era - launch date
    • Build logs for Scratch Builds - by era - launch date
  • Group Projects on MSW
    • Group Projects on Model Ship World
  • Shop Notes, Ship Modeling Tips, Techniques and Research
    • Nautical/Naval History
    • Discussions for Ships plans and Project Research. General research on specific vessels and ship types..
    • Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
    • Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
    • Masting, rigging and sails
    • Model Tips and Tricks and Making Jigs
    • Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
    • Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
    • Wood discussion...Where to use it? Where to get it? What types are best? How to Finish it?
    • Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
    • CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
  • Ship Modeling News And Reviews.....Traders and Dealers...Ship Model Clubs
    • General Ship Model Kit Discussions - NOT build logs
    • Reviews
    • Book, Monograph and Magazine reviews and Downloads. Questions and Discussions for Books and Pubs
    • Traders, Dealers, Buying or Selling anything? - Discuss New Products and Ship Model Goodies here as well!!
    • NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
    • Important Ship Model Club News, Links to ship modelling resources and museums
  • The Crew's Lounge
    • Shore Leave
  • Medway Longboat Group Project's Medway Longboat Build Logs
  • Medway Longboat Group Project's Plans and Instructions/Downloads
  • Medway Longboat Group Project's General discussions/How to join
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Ropewalk Plans/Downloads
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Discussions about Rope Making
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Rope Materials and parts resources
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Commercial sources for ropewalk machines
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's Build Logs for the Carving Group Project
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's Tutorials and Discussion for the Carving Group
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's How to join this Carving Group
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's Cross Section Build Logs for HMS TRITON
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's Build Logs for the Full Hull Version of HMS TRITON
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's How to Join The HMS TRITON Group Build
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's Member Build logs for the HMS Winchelsea
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's General project discussions on planking, fittings and monograph chapters
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's How to join this group project???
  • Planking Techniques's Click Here for Topics dedicated to planking!!!!
  • Planking Techniques's Planking Downloads and Tutorials and Videos

Calendars

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.


Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


NRG Membership Number

Found 31 results

  1. This is my first build log here in Model Ship World, but it is about a plastic ship model that I have already been working on for about three and a half years. I may have have many years to go on the project, because I am only working on it here and there and I am doing some modifications as well, which add time. First, some background information. As a child and teenager, I built a number of plastic models. Some of my favorites were plastic sailing ships, and I still have a couple of them that I built over 30 years ago: I also tried to build the Monogram 1:120 USS United States at the time, but never completed it. My interests changed, and I left the hobby until December 2016. Then, I began to build the Revell of Germany 1:96 Spanish Galleon (which, I understand from my research on the internet, is more like a 1:64 or 1:65 scale). It's not a model that depicts an actual ship that once sailed, but more like a general idea of a type of ship from a bygone era (Armada era in the late 1500s). We have a replica ship of a Spanish Galleon here in San Diego at the Maritime Museum of San Diego. I saw it being built, and completed, and I have been on it under sail, and am excited about building a Spanish Galleon of my own. This model has some features in its shape that some may say are not very accurate for a Spanish Galleon from that period. Well, in my modifications, mainly with masts and spars, I hope to change some of that, but I would like to think of this more as a "fantasy" version of a Spanish Galleon -- embodying some of the "romance" of the ship type. Here's what the box looks like: And what was inside it, minus the sails: I originally was thinking of building it out of the box, but decided to do modifications when I realized that I wasn't going to use the plastic sails, because one of them was wrinkled, so it wouldn't convincingly "billow":
  2. This is my first attempt at model ship building... I plan to move on to wooden ships but thought I'd try my hand at a plastic ship first to ease into the hobby. The kit requires quite a bit of time spent removing the excess flashing. I tried my hand at acrylic paints initially but decided to stick to Humbrol enamel paints (hand painted) as recommended in the manual. Instead of Humbrol 81 Matt Pale Yellow, I opted for 63 Sand Matt as I felt it didn't look as bright and had a more muted tone. Got a sore throat while painting the hull and wondered if it was due to the solvents in the enamel paint. Cured it with some whiskey but will be sure to wear a face mask moving forward... I painted the sections first before glueing them thinking it would be easier to paint them this way. I used Tamiya Extra Thin Cement to glue the hull and bottom deck to start and noticed some slight dissolving of the enamel paint. Will touch them up later but maybe glueing them first would have been wiser... Glued on the deck posts first but now starting to regret it as I foresee some issues aligning the upper deck above this (could knock them over). Hopefully these decisions won't come back to bite my behind later in the build. I am however enjoying the build process immensely. As a total newbie, I have a few questions to ask: 1. I used a fine handheld drill to reopen the holes in the hatches but in the process, the holes became round and lost its original square shape. Is there a better way to do this? 2. Any advice on painting the stern? Was thinking of painting the lighter colours on first then filling the windows with either a light blue or grey colour. Or is it better to do the opposite and dry brush the window frames with yellow? Thanks again for sharing your thoughts. Cheers,
  3. I've finally found the time to reconstruct my build log after the great crash of 2013 Some of the pictures are lost so the log does not start at the beginning. This is my first serious foray into ship modeling. I say first serious attempt because 30+ years ago I built a Revell USS Constitution. But I was still in High School and not very concerned with accuracy or craftsmanship. I just wanted to finish the kit and display it. This kit of Soleil Royal was given to me as a gift way back then and I am just getting around to continuing building it. I am very much looking forward to a build that I can be proud of. Even though I know that my skills are not up to par with some of you I am trying to incorporate as much research and accuracy as I can muster in a plastic kit. Here are some of the pictures of what has been done. I'll try to summarize what I've done so far to catch everyone up. I decided to display the ship with all gunports closed to starboard and opened on the port side. Eventually I plan on setting just the fighting sails (topsails, mizzen, and perhaps the spritsail topsail) with the courses clewed up. I did not like the look of the eyebolts supplied with the kit so I replaced them with brass. The holes for them were drilled and the eyebolts pass completely through the upper wale. The ends will be trimmed and bent over to lay alongside the inner bulkhead. The ends will lay inside the gap between the hull and the upper bulwarks, in an area that needs to be filled anyway. Doing the eyebolts this way should also prevent any pullout cause by strain from rigging. I am leaving the lower hull unpainted for now until a proper cradle/base is finished. I don't want to ruin the paint job. It will be painted a dirty white to represent white stuff. I also drilled a hole through the bottom of the keel, roughly amidships, and fastened a threaded nut inside the hull over it prior to fitting the decks. This will take a bolt from the base to fasten the model down to it. I don't know how other people secure their models to the display bases so I just improvised with what I had on hand. The head grating in the bow has been noted by others to be a problem with this kit. It has no supporting structure to it and seems to be just floating there. I do not know how this would have looked with respect to ornamentations and design, so I have not decided what to do with this area yet. [/size] The decks went in easily. The kit has a series of stanchions along the centerline of the first battery deck to support the 2nd battery deck. There are none for between the 2nd and 3rd battery. As a result there is a lot of flex in the 3rd battery deck. Since there will be quite a bit of rigging fastened here that will produce an upward strain on the deck I added some extra support. I trimmed some sprue to length to make stanchions for the centerline to hold the deck up. And I added a boot (coat?) to the base of the mainmast to hold the deck down. The mast coat was fashioned from sheet styrene and quarter round molding. The masts are dry fit at this point. I do not think I will cement them to the step. I'm going to let the rigging hold them in. I added some shims beneath the hatch gratings to raise the gratings above the deck level to give the appearance of a coaming. All of the eyebolts for the decks were replaced with brass. .
  4. I needed a change of scenery after a 10 year build on my Endeavour. I couldn't face another long term challange. Months ago I found the Artwox Varyag on the net on an overseas site and liked it a lot, but shipping to Oz is usually a nightmare. I found the kit at BNA Models at a reasonable price and thought that itn would be a nice change as I have not done a plastic model this century. I suppose the advantage of a late 1800's early 1900's kit has the advantage of real photos. Also the aftermarket range of goodies for plastic kits is great, as plastic is a lot more unforgiving than wood. The Artwox kit only has the original Zvesda hull, with their own false deck, wooden deck, resin, photoetch and barrels. The instructions are fairly good but without other references I would be lost. After having done a tall ship model, I now know how important the rigging plans are (the kit has none) and I have orderd the Kagero book. There are some things missing from the Artwox photoetch fret which are included in the Eduard kit and vice versa, so I also got that.
  5. My third build will be the SMS Emden. It has a history for us Aussies I suppose. I won't go into the history as there is the whole of the internet for that. Revell brought out a twin kit recently which will be good if I stuff up something, as I don't intend on building both it and the Dresden. There are a lot of open source builds on the net for this kit, most of which seem to be strait out of the box. I managed to purchase the last set of draughts in 1/200 on the internet for Peter Huff's 1995 publication. I had a look at the Kagero book and yet again, their research leaves a bit to be desired, as the even the photos don't match. The kit will need a LOT of bashing. Thus more internet shopping for bits and pieces. Heaps of work, but that's the joy of it. I got the Eduard Emden photo etch set for a start. A lot of the sprues look like they have been put in an oven as they just look blurry with very little detail. There will be very little of the original kit used but the hull is nice. I'm thinking six or more months, given my Varyag has a lot more detail but also a lot more commercially available extras. This era is not well represented for after market.
  6. Greatings to everyone, I am very happy to be back in this forum again! All these years I have been admiring the magnificent work of the members. Here I'll post the built log of this old airfix kit which I was given by very good friend. The box is very old, 1970s packaging. Some paint traces on the hull from an old painting attempt, and some pieces of the original masts bend broken or missing. I know, a rather rough start. I'll attempt to built the kit and correct some of its problems while I am at it. I really love 17th century ships, and I really look forward for this built. Thank you!
  7. For my 3rd plastic kit build, I've chosen the 1:350 Trumpeter USS England (DE-635) Destroyer Escort kit. Background: USS England DE-635 Length : 93.2 m (305.77 ft) Beam : 11.2 m (36.7 ft) Displacement : 1400K (1.377 Long tons) The USS England was one of 142 turbo-electric (TE) series destroyer escorts commissioned between April 1943 and March 1944. Named after Ensign Charles England who was killed onboard the Oklahoma (BB-37) on 7 December 1941 attack on Pearl Harbor. She was commissioned on 10 December 1943, arrived at Espiritu Santo on 12 March 1944, from where she was engaged in escort duties. Between 19 May and 31 May 1944, England, in company with George (DE-657), Raby (DE-698), and Spangler (DE-696), stalked and sank six Japanese submarines. with MK-10 "Hedgehog" Projector and Depth Charges. Following the successes against the six submarines, England continued to operate as convoy escort and was involved with operations against Leyte, Iwo Jima, and Okinawa. In the end of the war, England was decomissioned on 10 December 1945. The kit includes PE Brass depth charge racks, and I've also purchase the Tom's ModelWorks PE kit for this model. I will be painting it with the WWII "razzle-dazzle" camouflage, using as a reference the actual museum ship, Destroyer Escort USS Slater (DE-766), which is on display just north of me in Albany, NY. Obligatory box photos: Included PE Tom's ModelWorks PE alongside the kit supplied PE The "razzle-dazzle" camo scheme: Photos from the USS Slater website
  8. So I found a King George V on a local buy and sell site, came with a wooden deck and metal barrels at a good price. I know it's been done, Mr Rabbit and Kpnuts, and there are basically three iterations of HMS King George's Career, when she fought the Bismarck in '41, the '43 fit out then the '44 fit out. I want to do the '43 fit out as it hardly ever been done, the references are very obscure and I get to do camouflage and not strait grey. The Tamiya Kit is set for the 1945 fit out, having removed the aircraft and placed the ships boats amidships, but the Aftermarket Pontos is retrofitted for 1941. The thing is, the Pontos set gives you the ability to have an aircraft deck but the kit gives you no aircraft. Thus one has to buy a Walrus. The Tamiya kit has the stern square hatches omitted which need to be after - after market as Pontos ignored this gem. I got the new Infini Models RN Doors (he bloke who is Infini models designed this set when he worked for Pontos) as they are just magnificent. I also got some individual RN stanchions as I'm over one piece railings are I like to torture myself. I've ordered new Carley Floats (i'll have to scratch build the Flota nets) and an extra set of 20mm guns as there should be 38 of them all up. The Chap I bought the kit from had a Artwox deck which is suitable but the Pontos one is fairly clean which means I can add whatever configuration I want. I've spent a few weeks researching tis and the internet is just full of people who just do not check their references, as about 70% of the photos pro porting to be KGV are usually a sister ship. The Imperial War Museum has lovely photos which are correctly labeled and allow me to feel comfortable in my 1943 configuration. Welcome to build number 10 in 1/350.
  9. Cog and I discussed doing a group build, then I read the instructions and you need 8 people, so unless anyone else wishes to join, we are going to do a Northern Hemisphere and Southern Hemisphere build of the HMAS Vendetta by Showcase models. A quick google search will reveal the ships history as a V&W Class destroyer of WW1 vintage. She lasted from 1917 to 1945, but we intend to build it strait from the box.
  10. Greetings, I'm from Hungary, and until now, I built mainly WW2 ships and planes from plastic kits. Now I decided to build a tall ship, and I ended up with two kits, but I can't decide which to buy. One is the 1/96 plastic model of the Cutty Sark from Revell (Nr. 5422), and the other one is from wood, the 1/124 Thermopylae model of Sergal. Which of do you recommend to a beginner in sailing ships, and why? If you know alternatives for a maximum of €80-100, in the category of XIX. century ships, I would appreciate it too. Thanks in advance.
  11. Got the kit for Christmas, convinced my wife to let me into it early. Been going on it for about a week now. Kinda crazy all the additional little purchases you need to make to aid in the build. This image is from a few days ago. I had seen different recommendations on how to paint (I'm REALLY new to this) as far as priming, thinning, enamel vs acrylic. I decided to go with enamel, no priming or thinning so that I wouldn't have to paint the whole hull black, but I'm regretting that a little now and I'll probably have to go back through and paint all the black to get rid of the little mistakes I made with the white. I taped off the waterline to get a nice clean line, but there was some seepage in places, more drastic in others as well... I cleaned that by taking a Q-tip soaked in thinner and rubbed it off, same as I did with the white, which you can tell it kinda left smears, a few more wipes with a clean Q-tip and it mostly went away. You also can't really tell in the picture, but there are obvious brushstrokes in the copper plating below the waterline and I don't really know how to get rid of them. I'm thinking I just need to paint another coat with some thinned paint. From here on out, I'm going to be priming any large part that I need to paint (decks, mast, etc.), and thinning at a paint to thinner ratio of 15:1. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. -Galen
  12. My next build is the Hybrid battleship Ise. Converted in 1943/44 to a carrier ship, and half sunk in 1945 in Kure Harbour, Japan. The class after the Fuso so there are a lot of similarities which will allow me to use the AOTS Fuso for reference. During the build of Isuzu, I decided to do something much more complicated, lots more features. I would like to do an Aircraft Carrier and I like all the underlying lattice of beams, but you pay a lot of money for a flat top. The Fujimi Ise offers the best of both worlds. Flight deck and cannons plus pagoda tower. The prices and additions vary widely on this kit. You can get it for nearly $900 on Ebay!! I ended up getting it from Japan for $200 and arrived in OZ in a couple of days. Included were two separate photo etch sheets from Fujimi which seem to sell for around $100 each so I'm ahead. The Fujimi wooden deck is a bargain at $600 just for the deck. I went for the thrifty Artwox version. I got the flyhawk upgrade, which mainly focuses on support struts, barrels and 12.7mm guns and 2D 25mm's. The rear deck needs rails and turntables (not in any of the PE), the decks need lots of vents and other dandyfunk, and around 30 triple 25mms. Opening the box it's fairly strait forward, but It's going to suck up a LOT of aftermarket to bring it up to a decent standard. There are some video's of her on Utube.
  13. Hello everyone! I have been stalking this site for a while now (when one looks at every post every day you can begin to call it stalking I guess) and I actually fell in love with sailingships, especially naval vessels from mid 18th to late 18th century. I'm currently building (as the title of this topic already says it:) Le superbe from heller. The instructions are pretty unclear and in french so for my first ship of this kind, that's quite a setback. But nothing is forlorn! My deepest grattitude is extended to Blue Ensign for letting me base my model on his Le Praetorian. When I'm stuck with my model I spy a little bit off his buildlog since there are no buildlogs of this ship that has that level of detail and extensiveness. So more about the build itself. I started the build in march 2013, almost a year further and not that much progression, because of a very big learning curve to overcome. I take my time to do and redo things when necessary. And a building break of 5 months also has something to do with it. Too much schoolwork and so on. I have added some detail to the longboat because I don't like the look of an empty boat, and the setting of the shipsboats doesn't satisfy me. Other boats will be built later on to be incorporated in a diorama. I will try to add as much detail to the cannons as possible, which in this scale is pretty hard. I painted the cannons flat black but I also overdrawn them with pencil to add a metallic look. At the moment only the 30 32pndrs are painted and eyeletes have been attached to the trucks. As you will notice in my pictures, the ship is seaworthy, at least it can float like a real ship. I also built my previous models, Bismarck and Prinz Eugen this way, because it adds some realism. Nothing worse like a ship on dry land in my opinion... But with models it's harder said than done of course. The foremast is a bit warped but this is already fixed. I am planning to pick up the build again starting from june, because school will be over and I have a whole summerholiday to get some work done. I know that I will never reach the quality and finesse all the models on this forum have but I am passionate about it and my goal is to make a ship that I like/love and will be proud of. My deepest respect for all you experienced shipbuilders on this forum, wood and plastic. Every time I look at a build I am symply awe-struck! Enjoy and any comment/help is welcome! greetings.
  14. Hello all, as promised I'd like to show my actual project: USS United States. First I have to mention that this is a really worse kit by means of historical and technical correctness. So let's have a close look at the kit and the ship itself: USS United States has been one of the "Original Six" frigates authorized 1794 by the Congress. They've been built under supervision of Joshua Humphreys. Her service history is shown on threedecks.org and Wikipedia. There's very few evidence about her appearance. It IS evident that she had a raised quarterdeck purchased by her first CO, Cpt. John Barry, shown in Chapelle's "History Of The American Sailing Navy": In these times she also had a figurehead showing the Goddess Of Liberty. Lloyd McCaffery shows us how it may have looked like: According to Osprey's "American Heavy Frigates" the figurehead disappeared around 1808 and scrollwork took place at the bow. The raised quarterdeck influenced the ship's behaviour so it has also been removed. I think this happened about 1810 during refit. Here we have another nice picture of USS United States with quarterdeck, figurehead and 2 rows of stern windows (??): Please note that there are no portholes shown... OK, that's what we have by research. Now let's have a look at the kit. HERE (Link) you'll find a very good description and some pictures (German language). Following topics have to be criticized: Scale: obviously NOT 1/150 but very close to 1/220 Outboard: portholes, closed bow, lids of gunports are parted, no hammock nettings Stern: clearly the stern of USS Constitution in the 1870s until today Inboard: no fiferails along the breastwork, gratings too simple, round skylight over Captain's cabin Equipment: only one cutter on the main grating, no clamps or ringbolts Rigging: all masts are molded as one part including yards that are molded in 90 degrees to the ship's direction, double dolphin striker In fact, you get a simplified "Constitution" kit which is miles away from USS United States. So you've got the choice either to build USS Constitution or have fun with a nearly correct USS United States... guess my choice I further decided to build her in a kind of 1842 configuration. Advantage is, the closed bow, bulwarks, gunlids and portholes can remain. I think these features have been added somewhere in the 1820s or 1830, maybe 1828 during her extensive repairs at Philadelphia Navy Yard. So let's have a walk-around: I sheathed the kit's stern with a self designed one made of cardboard, choosing a simple 5-window configuration: All gratings were replaced by self made ones. I used paper strips. Also the skylight was replaced, fiferails were made out of cardstock and wire, bitts out of cardstock, wire and parts of toothpicks. The boats were another challenge. I also made them entirely from card and paper. I also added hammock nettings and hammoks from tissue, wire and thread and put some crew members and US Marines into place. The paintwork is entirely made with acrylics, note that the bow decorations are not guilded and the white gunport belt is painted to the bows. This can be seen on older pictures of USS Constitution and USS Constellation. Now let's have a look at the pictures: I built the masts completely new, the following pictures are showing the kit's condition right now. The tops are parts of the original kit. OK, that's it for today. Looking forward to your comments. Regards Alex
  15. Good evening everyone The kit is ordered, the Deluxe PE kits is not available in the UK at present, should be another couple of weeks The Victory is safe and secure for a while, and will be finished The Workroom has had a bit of a make over as well, i put a window in at the weekend, at last i have some natural light in there and a different carpet as the one i had, it was impossible to find anything when dropped onto it, research http://www.ipmsstockholm.se/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2250&start=30 http://www.kbismarck.com/models/ http://3dhistory.de/wordpress/3d-models/dkm-bismarck/bismarck-high-res http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=144178 http://www.bismarck-class.dk/shipmodels/shipmodels_menu.html https://www.facebook.com/BismaarckModell148Scale/photos_stream http://www.bismarck-class.dk/shipmodels/shipmodels_menu.html
  16. I was originally going to try and build a pob model of the Bluenose. After pricing out the model, paints, tools, shipping, taxes etc I came out with a price of around $400Cdn. I passed it by the Admiral and got the 100 yard death stare, then she asked is there something a little less in cost to start out with first to make sure it's something you'll enjoy. So I'm looking at plastic now instead of wood for my first build. Was looking at Revell's Constitution in 1/96 scale. Your thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bruce
  17. This build log will cover my building of the 1:72 Revell plastic kit of the Gato class submarine. The decals that come with the kit are for the USS Drum and USS Albacore. However, the fairwater, or conning tower, does not match either boat. But it does match that of the USS Cobia, which is what I will model here. Besides the kit itself which is 52 inches in length when completed, I have also purchased the complete "Big Ed" set of brass photo-etched parts for this kit from Eduard. Where I will display it I haven't decided yet, but it will be on the work bench for quite some time. Painting will mostly be done by airbrush, which I am quite the novice at using. But it should be fun to build. While not needing the skills to build like the wooden kits, I wanted to add this particular model to the log entries due mostly to the size of the model itself. (From Wikipedia:) The United States Navy Gato-class submarines were launched 1941–43 and were the first mass-production US submarine class of World War II. Together with their near-sisters the Balao and Tench classes, their design formed the majority of the United States Navy's World War II submarine fleet. Named after the first vessel of the class, USS Gato, the Gato class and its successors formed the core of the submarine service that was largely responsible for the destruction of the Japanese merchant marine and a large portion of the Imperial Japanese Navy in World War II. Gato's name comes from a species of small catshark. Like most other U.S. Navy submarines of the period, boats of the Gato class were given the names of marine creatures. USS Cobia (SS/AGSS-245) is a Gato-class submarine, formerly of the United States Navy, named for the cobia. Cobia (SS-245) was laid down on 17 March 1943 by Manitowoc Shipbuilding Company, Manitowoc, Wisconsin. She was launched on 28 November 1943 (sponsored by Mrs. C. W. Magruder), and commissioned on 29 March 1944, Lieutenant Commander Albert L. Becker in command. On 1 July 1970, the Navy struck Cobia from the Naval Register, and she was towed to Manitowoc, Wisconsin to serve as an international memorial to submariners. In 1986, Cobia was incorporated as a part of the Wisconsin Maritime Museum, declared a National Historic Landmark, and placed on the National Register of Historic Places. Cobia is permanently docked at the Manitowoc River's mouth at Lake Michigan.
  18. Hi everyone - as I mentioned in my "New Member Introduction" post, this is my first time truly building a model ship. I normally build figure kits, sci-fi, fantasy, super heroes, dinosaurs, monsters, etc. And my only experience with rigging was the Wright Brothers' model plane. But I was at a garage sale and picked this kit up for an amazing $5! And it was 100% complete. I felt like a thief. But I took it home. So here is my build log. I'm super excited to be embarking on this voyage but slightly intimidated by the rigging. Note: As this is my first kit, I will likely build it pretty much out-of-the-box without a lot of modifications. (Unless I get inspired to do some customizing). I hope to gain a lot of wisdom from this community during this process. Anyway, here is the kit in these photos. Thanks, George
  19. For my first build, I thought I would start with a plastic kit and see how it goes from here. After a couple trips to my local hobby shop I purchased an 896-piece model called Pirate Ship. 896 parts may seem a bit ambitious, but I wanted a fair amount of detail. Perhaps a bit of back-story is in order. My basement's decor is loosely based on the period of Age of Sails. It started with my wife's and I love of the sea, but being landlocked, we thought we'd bring a small window of the sea into the home. A 180-gallon salt-water aquarium was set-up in the basement and we were well on our way. From there it seemed only natural to go with a nautical theme. I also enjoy woodworking and built an aquarium tank stand with two mermaids holding up a portion of the stand. From there an interest in historical accounts of pirates evolved, which lead to the purchase of the Revell Kit. Here is a photo of the boxed kit, as I am still working up the nerve to opening it. What's a ship without a crew?
  20. I received this kit for Christmas from my admiral......she was so bummed out, that it wasn't the Billing's Titanic. I have never built an academy kit before......I was impressed with how the kit looks. there is quite a bit of detail to it, and I really like the size......the hull is 26 1/2 inches long. I have to be brief....I am to grill supper. it has been an off the wall busy day! I will start with an overall view of the parts......there are so many small parts.......I really have been away from plastic for quite a while. I had to do this on the dining room table, so there may be some bad lighting issues. the instructions don't look too bad, but since I plan to do some painting, I think it best to hold off on the rigging until the painting is done. {I'm sure they mean well} I'm not too keen on the chrome....a few of the parts pertain to the stand, but the name plaque, props, and anchors will need to be stripped. I use brake fluid for the process and a good stiff brush. there are a few water slide decals.......jury's still out on the flags.......they are peel and stick. I neglected to mention that the parts are done in colored plastic. for those who don't do much painting, this kit would be ideal........reminds me of the larger scale Revell kit from the past. here are all the white sprues. the deck parts and sprue is done in a tan color....the deck areas will need to be painted a flat tan. sorry.....I have the sprue panel upside down. there is a black sprue panel, a couple brown sprue panels, and the funnel parts are done in an orange / yellow color. there is a pack of rigging thread tucked in the sleeve of the stand base. there are plastic ratlines in the kit as well....I may do away with them, as well as throw another size rigging thread in the mix. I'm pretty sure that not all the rigging is the same size. the hull is an interesting part........the bottom paint has already been done. I'll go into it more in my next post. as the build progresses, you'll see the detail that is molded into this kit. it is a pretty nice kit......but it's going to be a nightmare to paint the detail on the bow and stern panels. personally, they might have done better to increase the part count, instead of molding the detail into these parts. that of course would alter the skill level.......and the market span as well. I just hope I haven't lost my knack in painting small detail
  21. I hope I have this topic in the right place if not moderators please correct me. I figured scratch because it's a scratch project on an already built kit. I'll explain. My first ship model ever I got when I was 17. It's a Lindberg Jolly Roger plastic kit. I was used to building airplanes at that time so I built it in a similar way with just the pieces provided and some paint. At that time I didn't add rigging. It had the back stays but that was about it. As I got more into ship in bottle building I added some rigging. I guess you can say it was ship in bottle rigged since it was just the lines with no blocks. The lines them selves weren't even totally correct they just looked ...about right. In our last move the ship got really banged up. Broken bowsprit, broken plastic sails, bent masts all sorts of problems. I've decided to restore it using wood parts all scratch built. I've always had a problem building bigger ship models. I don't know what it is. It's probably that I find them intimidating. There's a lot of parts and pieces and a lot that I have a general idea about but not a thorough knowledge of. Since I enjoy rigging and how rigging looks and works I thought this might be a good project to get my feet wet so to speak. I decided I might as well post this since I feel like I'm getting stuck and I've made some good progress so far so I'd like to continue. Here's what I've got. This is me a few years ago....7 or 8 years I think. I post it because it's one of the few pictures I have of the model as I originally built it. This was preship in bottle building. This is what I've built so far. I have the masts in place and tapered and one cross tree in place. This is the cross tree I built. I think my spacing between the lower and upper mast might be to wide. I'm open to thoughts. Still got quiet a few more to do. Also on the original model there was an additional piece to the bowsprit. In small models I glue the pieces together and tie some string around but I want this one to look right. How were those two pieces held together? I'm also open to books I should read. I tried The Rigging of Ships by R.C. Anderson but I got very lost in the, "it was built this way with a lot of exceptions" style the author used. Let me know what you think.
  22. I started my Revel 1/96 Constitution when my youngest was 4. It was slow going and I used to joke that I'll have it done in time to give it to her as a wedding present. I eventually just put it away as it was a little overwhelming. Well she's 23, and while she doesn't have a serious boyfriend, I'd like to fulfill my committment when the time comes. So it's unpacked and I'm sitting here and I'm stuck exactly where I was before. Except now there's the Internet. :-) So in brief, I can't figure out how to get the string through the tiny cannon door holes. Do you just drill very carefully? Use a hot needle? Something else? I'm sure there's some technique. Any ideas are gladly accepted! Thanks!
  23. Several members over the last few months have inquired about some fiber optic lanterns I incorporated in my U.S.S. Constitution build and how to make them. Although some trial and error will occur for you (as with any new applied technique) I will highlight some of the details of the process I used to hopefully allow you to avoid some pitfalls. Let me start with tools you will need. Although this lantern process may seem tedious it is actually a lot of fun working with them and the rewards of lighting previously unseen areas of your build can't be beat. They do get easier as you do more of them. The tools I used are as follows: 1. Calipers (used to gauge the size of the plastic while it is being turned and shaped) These are EKG calipers that were given to me long ago. 2. Double end pin vise from Micromark tools: http://www.micromark.com/double-end-pin-vise,6729.html item #21104. I took mine apart and only used the large chuck (beneath the hand grip in the photo) to secure the plastic stock. 3. A slightly curved and cut paint stirring stick with blue painters tape applied. This is used to clamp the fiber optic into the ships bulwark and protects the model from the bite of the clamp. I added felt (not pictured) between the clamp as well for the same reason. 4. A plastic jig made from extra 1/8" plastic stock. More on this later... 5. Fine modelers sanding stick (or simply spray glue fine sand paper to another paint stick). 6. Micro brush - I believe this is a Microbrush product (http://www.microbrush.com/hobby/howtobuy/area.asp). 7. 1/8" Square clear plastic stock. This one is acrylic. I got mine from US Plastics item 44135 (http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=24195&catid=440&clickid=searchresults) BUT they only come in 6 foot sections! Shipping was more than the product...but there was plenty of it to experiment. Pictured is a 16" section. 8. Miniature drill bits. Any will do...mine are Micromark (http://www.micromark.com/20-piece-micro-size-drill-bit-set-with-index-61-80,6758.html) 9. 3" or 4" grip clamp to compress the fiber optic into the bulwark. 10. Leather punch for cutting out lantern reflectors. 11. Medium file with sharp fine teeth. Dull files will increase friction and thus heat, melting your stock. 12. An accurate ruler for setting the calipers. 13. A hand mini drill (Mine: Micromark http://www.micromark.com/micro-hand-drill,7045.html) NOT pictured: 14. Drill Press 15. Fiber OPtic cable (I bought plastic cable on Ebay - 0.75mm) 16. Dremel tool with a 1/32" engraving bit. 17. Beader's snips or tree snips. 18. Emory board 19. Flat Black Paint Next I'll describe how I used them.
  24. This model has a very questionable pedigree. While visually based on the R.C. Anderson design, it really has detail and design more in common with the old Megow wooden kit from the 1930's-40's. This is my attempt to make it more like the Anderson version, which still exists at the Addison Gallery of the Phillip's Academy. It is also another step as I try to rehabilitate and rebuild my skills as a model builder. To start, I needed to find a scale for the model. Like so many of the plastic sailing ship kits from the 1960's, it has no real stated scale (indeed, the box art even depicts another version of the Mayflower!). Based upon Anderson's stated dimensions in "A Mayflower Model" (Mariner's Mirror, vol. 12, 1926), 64' keel, 26' beam, a scale of approximately 1/250 was determined. Construction began in earnest on 24th October, 2015. Initial construction consisted of making "timbers" from sheet styrene (an old garage sale sign). The two gunports were blanked as well.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
×
×
  • Create New...