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Found 40 results

  1. Have you ever browsed through your favorite build to see what the full build looks like at the present time? Have you ever wondered what else is being built on MSW 2.0, it may be a kit, scratch, R/C, card or plastic, or any other material, including digital reconstruction. I am inviting all members to post one latest photo of their build (side elevation)and a link to that build, so everyone can see what it looks like, and give others an idea of what else is going on. I am not trying to create a multitude of build logs under one topic, just photo’s so we can all see what is going on. Please delete any other photo's you may have posted in this thread, This will possibly help others in deciding on what to build next Anyone interested?
  2. I needed a change of scenery after a 10 year build on my Endeavour. I couldn't face another long term challange. Months ago I found the Artwox Varyag on the net on an overseas site and liked it a lot, but shipping to Oz is usually a nightmare. I found the kit at BNA Models at a reasonable price and thought that itn would be a nice change as I have not done a plastic model this century. I suppose the advantage of a late 1800's early 1900's kit has the advantage of real photos. Also the aftermarket range of goodies for plastic kits is great, as plastic is a lot more unforgiving than wood. The Artwox kit only has the original Zvesda hull, with their own false deck, wooden deck, resin, photoetch and barrels. The instructions are fairly good but without other references I would be lost. After having done a tall ship model, I now know how important the rigging plans are (the kit has none) and I have orderd the Kagero book. There are some things missing from the Artwox photoetch fret which are included in the Eduard kit and vice versa, so I also got that.
  3. For my encore performance I am going to build the 2nd Italeri car kit of the 1936-1939 Mercedes Benz 540K in 1:24 scale. The Mercedes Benz 540 was built between 1936 and 1939. It had an 8 cylinder, 5.4 liter engine, vehicle weight was not less than 2300 kg (5070 lbs) , max speed was 170 km/h (105.6 mph) and fuel consumption was 28 to 30 liters per 100 km or 8.4 to 7.8 mpg (US). The box art show a paint scheme of cream with brown fenders but the kit sprues are yellow with black fenders; I will be changing that to something closer to the box art representation. Looked on the Internet forc pictures of this car in different paint schemes and there are not many to be found. Found more photos of the 1934 Rolls Royce Phantom I just completed than of this Mercedes. The obligatory box contents photos follow: And of course the instructions are again in the picture book form: Stay tuned !
  4. For my next non-ship build I am going to build this 1934 Rolls-Royce Phantom II 1:24 scale kit by Italeri. All the parts came in pre-colored sprues to match the box art. I plan to paint some parts and Clear Gloss coat others rather than try to match the colors. The bright yellow sides I will Clear Coat with a Gloss. The fenders, hood and some other parts will be painted with a Gloss Aluminum (Tamyia). The engine and other parts will be painted black. The roof, boot, seats, and interior door panels are molded in a strange orange/brown color. I will probably re-paint them, haven't decided tho. Here's the box and contents photos.
  5. I've finally found the time to reconstruct my build log after the great crash of 2013 Some of the pictures are lost so the log does not start at the beginning. This is my first serious foray into ship modeling. I say first serious attempt because 30+ years ago I built a Revell USS Constitution. But I was still in High School and not very concerned with accuracy or craftsmanship. I just wanted to finish the kit and display it. This kit of Soleil Royal was given to me as a gift way back then and I am just getting around to continuing building it. I am very much looking forward to a build that I can be proud of. Even though I know that my skills are not up to par with some of you I am trying to incorporate as much research and accuracy as I can muster in a plastic kit. Here are some of the pictures of what has been done. I'll try to summarize what I've done so far to catch everyone up. I decided to display the ship with all gunports closed to starboard and opened on the port side. Eventually I plan on setting just the fighting sails (topsails, mizzen, and perhaps the spritsail topsail) with the courses clewed up. I did not like the look of the eyebolts supplied with the kit so I replaced them with brass. The holes for them were drilled and the eyebolts pass completely through the upper wale. The ends will be trimmed and bent over to lay alongside the inner bulkhead. The ends will lay inside the gap between the hull and the upper bulwarks, in an area that needs to be filled anyway. Doing the eyebolts this way should also prevent any pullout cause by strain from rigging. I am leaving the lower hull unpainted for now until a proper cradle/base is finished. I don't want to ruin the paint job. It will be painted a dirty white to represent white stuff. I also drilled a hole through the bottom of the keel, roughly amidships, and fastened a threaded nut inside the hull over it prior to fitting the decks. This will take a bolt from the base to fasten the model down to it. I don't know how other people secure their models to the display bases so I just improvised with what I had on hand. The head grating in the bow has been noted by others to be a problem with this kit. It has no supporting structure to it and seems to be just floating there. I do not know how this would have looked with respect to ornamentations and design, so I have not decided what to do with this area yet. [/size] The decks went in easily. The kit has a series of stanchions along the centerline of the first battery deck to support the 2nd battery deck. There are none for between the 2nd and 3rd battery. As a result there is a lot of flex in the 3rd battery deck. Since there will be quite a bit of rigging fastened here that will produce an upward strain on the deck I added some extra support. I trimmed some sprue to length to make stanchions for the centerline to hold the deck up. And I added a boot (coat?) to the base of the mainmast to hold the deck down. The mast coat was fashioned from sheet styrene and quarter round molding. The masts are dry fit at this point. I do not think I will cement them to the step. I'm going to let the rigging hold them in. I added some shims beneath the hatch gratings to raise the gratings above the deck level to give the appearance of a coaming. All of the eyebolts for the decks were replaced with brass. .
  6. My third build will be the SMS Emden. It has a history for us Aussies I suppose. I won't go into the history as there is the whole of the internet for that. Revell brought out a twin kit recently which will be good if I stuff up something, as I don't intend on building both it and the Dresden. There are a lot of open source builds on the net for this kit, most of which seem to be strait out of the box. I managed to purchase the last set of draughts in 1/200 on the internet for Peter Huff's 1995 publication. I had a look at the Kagero book and yet again, their research leaves a bit to be desired, as the even the photos don't match. The kit will need a LOT of bashing. Thus more internet shopping for bits and pieces. Heaps of work, but that's the joy of it. I got the Eduard Emden photo etch set for a start. A lot of the sprues look like they have been put in an oven as they just look blurry with very little detail. There will be very little of the original kit used but the hull is nice. I'm thinking six or more months, given my Varyag has a lot more detail but also a lot more commercially available extras. This era is not well represented for after market.
  7. Late summer 1805, the sun is burning inexorably from above, the wind is completely asleep, the sea is smooth as glass. The dispatches have already been exchanged. The master of the small cutter has just returned to his tiny vessel. Behind it there is towering the enormously massiv silhouette of the huge black and ocher striped three decker. Through the open gunports the lashed up guns can be seen. Also the officers' cabins ports are wide opened by the order of the Captain's to ensure an optimal ventilation of the hot and steamy lower decks. Clatter of activity on some guns being ran out cuts through the silence. The rumble of the heavy guns rolling over the decks and the trampling of countless bare feet and the short shouted commands supported by a multitude of hand signs originate from the ordered gundrill for new gun crews and their officers. In competition between the three decks they are fighting for the fastest rate of firing. The rest of the ships crew is occupied with cleaning and mending duties. The holystone are scratching on the decks. Above all the sails hang slack in their yards. No breath of wind moves them. They are nestled heavily over stays and fighting tops. The captain took advantage of the hot calm to put up all the canvas possible for airing. One of the studdingsails is taken in, the spar tied up with its inner end against the shrouds, in order to mend something on its fittings. Sitting on a swing seat pendent from the fore top, a crew member just is finishing painting over with ocher the originally black coloured mast loops. On the poop Captain Hardy monitors the young cadets´ training in navigation, supported by Lord Nelson, who uses the opportunity to entertain the cadets with stories of his actions and the ideas of his tactical concepts. But in the back of everybodys mind there is just one question - When will there be wind again ...
  8. Greatings to everyone, I am very happy to be back in this forum again! All these years I have been admiring the magnificent work of the members. Here I'll post the built log of this old airfix kit which I was given by very good friend. The box is very old, 1970s packaging. Some paint traces on the hull from an old painting attempt, and some pieces of the original masts bend broken or missing. I know, a rather rough start. I'll attempt to built the kit and correct some of its problems while I am at it. I really love 17th century ships, and I really look forward for this built. Thank you!
  9. Hi everybody! I have been looking for La Belle Poule from Heller in scale 1/200. This ship has been out of production for a while and is becoming very rare. There have been some for sale on a french website for a very good price (20-30 EUR) but the problem was that the seller was either not willing to ship it to Belgium or the item was already sold. So, my question for you, do any of you happen to have this kit or know anybody that wants to get it of their hands for a good price? There are some models out there but I'm not prepared to pay €60 for a kit in that scale from the seventies... I can get a "Le superbe" or "Glorieux" kit for that kind of money with twice the amount of parts and in a bigger scale. So please, any tips are very welcome! Thank you Grtz, Lukas.
  10. Scratchbuilding USS Saratoga CV-3, 1944 in 1/350 scale. This model will depict Saratoga late war with asymmetrical hull, cut-down funnel, and heavy AA fit. It is NOT being converted from the Trumpeter kit. Jim Russell did convert the Trumpeter kit into a 1944 Saratoga beautifully. You can see his conversion here: http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=39515&start=0 Actual ship length overall: 910' - 1-3/4" Model Length: 31.205 inches (79.26 cm). Material: Evergreen polystyrene sheet, strips, tubing, rods, H-sections, etc. Hull construction method: double plank on frame Plans and References: 1. US Navy Booklet of General Plans dated 1942 (implemented following Kamikaze damage sustained on February 21, 1945), available from Floating Drydock 2. US Navy Booklet of General Plans dated April 23, 1936 (implemented during a refit in December, 1943, plans updated Aug., 1944 to include cross sections - vitally important for this build). 3. US Navy Booklet of General Plans for USS Lexington CV-2, dated 1936, for comparison 4. detail photos and comments posted by Tracy White (invaluable) 5. photos from USS Saratoga Squadron at Sea by David Doyle (Tracy contributed much to that effort). 6. hull sections for USS Lexington CV-2, drawn by Thomas Walkowiak, available from Floating Drydock. Technique inspiration: Paul Budzik's masterful scratch-built USS Enterprise CV-6 http://paulbudzik.com/current-projects/Enterprise%20Scratch/Enterprise_Scratch.html Finish inspiration: Martin Quinn’s exquisite prewar USS Lexington CV-2: http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery/cv/cv-02/350-mq/mq-index.html Your advice, constructive criticism and comments are most welcome and appreciated.
  11. For my 3rd plastic kit build, I've chosen the 1:350 Trumpeter USS England (DE-635) Destroyer Escort kit. Background: USS England DE-635 Length : 93.2 m (305.77 ft) Beam : 11.2 m (36.7 ft) Displacement : 1400K (1.377 Long tons) The USS England was one of 142 turbo-electric (TE) series destroyer escorts commissioned between April 1943 and March 1944. Named after Ensign Charles England who was killed onboard the Oklahoma (BB-37) on 7 December 1941 attack on Pearl Harbor. She was commissioned on 10 December 1943, arrived at Espiritu Santo on 12 March 1944, from where she was engaged in escort duties. Between 19 May and 31 May 1944, England, in company with George (DE-657), Raby (DE-698), and Spangler (DE-696), stalked and sank six Japanese submarines. with MK-10 "Hedgehog" Projector and Depth Charges. Following the successes against the six submarines, England continued to operate as convoy escort and was involved with operations against Leyte, Iwo Jima, and Okinawa. In the end of the war, England was decomissioned on 10 December 1945. The kit includes PE Brass depth charge racks, and I've also purchase the Tom's ModelWorks PE kit for this model. I will be painting it with the WWII "razzle-dazzle" camouflage, using as a reference the actual museum ship, Destroyer Escort USS Slater (DE-766), which is on display just north of me in Albany, NY. Obligatory box photos: Included PE Tom's ModelWorks PE alongside the kit supplied PE The "razzle-dazzle" camo scheme: Photos from the USS Slater website
  12. So I found a King George V on a local buy and sell site, came with a wooden deck and metal barrels at a good price. I know it's been done, Mr Rabbit and Kpnuts, and there are basically three iterations of HMS King George's Career, when she fought the Bismarck in '41, the '43 fit out then the '44 fit out. I want to do the '43 fit out as it hardly ever been done, the references are very obscure and I get to do camouflage and not strait grey. The Tamiya Kit is set for the 1945 fit out, having removed the aircraft and placed the ships boats amidships, but the Aftermarket Pontos is retrofitted for 1941. The thing is, the Pontos set gives you the ability to have an aircraft deck but the kit gives you no aircraft. Thus one has to buy a Walrus. The Tamiya kit has the stern square hatches omitted which need to be after - after market as Pontos ignored this gem. I got the new Infini Models RN Doors (he bloke who is Infini models designed this set when he worked for Pontos) as they are just magnificent. I also got some individual RN stanchions as I'm over one piece railings are I like to torture myself. I've ordered new Carley Floats (i'll have to scratch build the Flota nets) and an extra set of 20mm guns as there should be 38 of them all up. The Chap I bought the kit from had a Artwox deck which is suitable but the Pontos one is fairly clean which means I can add whatever configuration I want. I've spent a few weeks researching tis and the internet is just full of people who just do not check their references, as about 70% of the photos pro porting to be KGV are usually a sister ship. The Imperial War Museum has lovely photos which are correctly labeled and allow me to feel comfortable in my 1943 configuration. Welcome to build number 10 in 1/350.
  13. Cog and I discussed doing a group build, then I read the instructions and you need 8 people, so unless anyone else wishes to join, we are going to do a Northern Hemisphere and Southern Hemisphere build of the HMAS Vendetta by Showcase models. A quick google search will reveal the ships history as a V&W Class destroyer of WW1 vintage. She lasted from 1917 to 1945, but we intend to build it strait from the box.
  14. Greetings, I'm from Hungary, and until now, I built mainly WW2 ships and planes from plastic kits. Now I decided to build a tall ship, and I ended up with two kits, but I can't decide which to buy. One is the 1/96 plastic model of the Cutty Sark from Revell (Nr. 5422), and the other one is from wood, the 1/124 Thermopylae model of Sergal. Which of do you recommend to a beginner in sailing ships, and why? If you know alternatives for a maximum of €80-100, in the category of XIX. century ships, I would appreciate it too. Thanks in advance.
  15. First plastic model from a kit. Hoping it will be easy, after all it comes with all already made parts and even has an instruction manual. Not expecting to do much modelling (a welcomed break), just assembling. Bought the kit from a second hand shop. Discovered later that a few tiny minor parts are missing. 90% of the parts are still in there template frame. Overall size is 53 cm (about 21"). Not sure if I will mount it on its stand. May include a small diorama afterwards. Done Internet research on the U-2540. Most interior view models were, for some reason, less impressive than what was illustrated on the kit box. I suppose the small scale of the details would be the main challenge here. Thank goodness the kit has some instrumentation decals. Exterior view will NOT include weathering. Though I am very impressed by those who can recreate weathering with such realism, though at times overdone, I have an aversion to it. I like warm and sunny as opposed to cold and dull appearances for models. So this model will look somewhat brand new, just off the slipway. Have no Revell paints, so I cross-referenced to the Humbrol paints that were available to me from the local maritime museum. Be the way, this model will be for the museum (if it turns out okay and they accept it). Some colours were missing, so I mixed up a few to suit.
  16. This is my first crack at this type of model. It was acquired by me from my late uncles estate along with a few other model boat kits. It was interesting to me to learn that we shared this interest. He had started assembling the mast sections, but appears to be as far as he got with it. The sails are grey in color, most appear in good condition given the age of the kit (40+ years). A few have some reddish stains and one has a small tear. I don't intend to use them, and have decided to either assemble bare poles, or make my own using the plastic ones to mold the fabric to shape. I had some questions regarding painting the model, and have found instruction sheets for newer editions on Revell's webpage with detailed painting guides. I also downloaded a file which matched Revell paint numbers to other manufacturers such as Humbrol and Model master. I have started to paint the mast assemblies. So far that is as far as I have got. I will upload some images when I get home.
  17. My next build is the Hybrid battleship Ise. Converted in 1943/44 to a carrier ship, and half sunk in 1945 in Kure Harbour, Japan. The class after the Fuso so there are a lot of similarities which will allow me to use the AOTS Fuso for reference. During the build of Isuzu, I decided to do something much more complicated, lots more features. I would like to do an Aircraft Carrier and I like all the underlying lattice of beams, but you pay a lot of money for a flat top. The Fujimi Ise offers the best of both worlds. Flight deck and cannons plus pagoda tower. The prices and additions vary widely on this kit. You can get it for nearly $900 on Ebay!! I ended up getting it from Japan for $200 and arrived in OZ in a couple of days. Included were two separate photo etch sheets from Fujimi which seem to sell for around $100 each so I'm ahead. The Fujimi wooden deck is a bargain at $600 just for the deck. I went for the thrifty Artwox version. I got the flyhawk upgrade, which mainly focuses on support struts, barrels and 12.7mm guns and 2D 25mm's. The rear deck needs rails and turntables (not in any of the PE), the decks need lots of vents and other dandyfunk, and around 30 triple 25mms. Opening the box it's fairly strait forward, but It's going to suck up a LOT of aftermarket to bring it up to a decent standard. There are some video's of her on Utube.
  18. Hello everyone! I have been stalking this site for a while now (when one looks at every post every day you can begin to call it stalking I guess) and I actually fell in love with sailingships, especially naval vessels from mid 18th to late 18th century. I'm currently building (as the title of this topic already says it:) Le superbe from heller. The instructions are pretty unclear and in french so for my first ship of this kind, that's quite a setback. But nothing is forlorn! My deepest grattitude is extended to Blue Ensign for letting me base my model on his Le Praetorian. When I'm stuck with my model I spy a little bit off his buildlog since there are no buildlogs of this ship that has that level of detail and extensiveness. So more about the build itself. I started the build in march 2013, almost a year further and not that much progression, because of a very big learning curve to overcome. I take my time to do and redo things when necessary. And a building break of 5 months also has something to do with it. Too much schoolwork and so on. I have added some detail to the longboat because I don't like the look of an empty boat, and the setting of the shipsboats doesn't satisfy me. Other boats will be built later on to be incorporated in a diorama. I will try to add as much detail to the cannons as possible, which in this scale is pretty hard. I painted the cannons flat black but I also overdrawn them with pencil to add a metallic look. At the moment only the 30 32pndrs are painted and eyeletes have been attached to the trucks. As you will notice in my pictures, the ship is seaworthy, at least it can float like a real ship. I also built my previous models, Bismarck and Prinz Eugen this way, because it adds some realism. Nothing worse like a ship on dry land in my opinion... But with models it's harder said than done of course. The foremast is a bit warped but this is already fixed. I am planning to pick up the build again starting from june, because school will be over and I have a whole summerholiday to get some work done. I know that I will never reach the quality and finesse all the models on this forum have but I am passionate about it and my goal is to make a ship that I like/love and will be proud of. My deepest respect for all you experienced shipbuilders on this forum, wood and plastic. Every time I look at a build I am symply awe-struck! Enjoy and any comment/help is welcome! greetings.
  19. I have never done this (a build log) before, but from what I've seen, one of the best ways to get advice is to have a build log as a forum for discussion! I have in the past built model cars, but I recently, after a good 20 of years of nothing, decided to get back into it, and then I decided to try my hand at a ship! I built the 1/150 scale Revell USS United States. And I absolutely loved it! I have now decided (perhaps foolishly) to tackle the 1/96 USS Constitution by Revell. So I dove in earlier this week from the beginning, painting the hull. I have that mostly complete, still needing to paint the interior, and I've hit the detail areas on the bow and stern as well as on the cabin. Here are my pictures so far. I used a paint pen from Hobby Lobby for the gold and some of the white for the small detail, but a small brush and a toothpick for the other small parts. What I struggled with was the bulwarks color. I have decided to go with a darkish green, similar to what is on the current real life ship. I don't know why Revell wants it white, but I'm rebelling! I have been unable to mix a satisfactory green, so I'm buying some paint today. I am very nervous about this ship build because it's a hefty task for someone like me with very little to no experience. Also super excited. Hopefully the community here will be as awesome as it appears to be! My next task once the hull is complete is going to be an attempt at creating a weathered wood look on the deck. I have seen some vague references to doing this, but I am going with trial and error. If anybody has any input, please let me know! What I've done is grabbed varying colors of brown from light to dark, and I'm going to try to layer them. To be continued!
  20. Hello all, as promised I'd like to show my actual project: USS United States. First I have to mention that this is a really worse kit by means of historical and technical correctness. So let's have a close look at the kit and the ship itself: USS United States has been one of the "Original Six" frigates authorized 1794 by the Congress. They've been built under supervision of Joshua Humphreys. Her service history is shown on threedecks.org and Wikipedia. There's very few evidence about her appearance. It IS evident that she had a raised quarterdeck purchased by her first CO, Cpt. John Barry, shown in Chapelle's "History Of The American Sailing Navy": In these times she also had a figurehead showing the Goddess Of Liberty. Lloyd McCaffery shows us how it may have looked like: According to Osprey's "American Heavy Frigates" the figurehead disappeared around 1808 and scrollwork took place at the bow. The raised quarterdeck influenced the ship's behaviour so it has also been removed. I think this happened about 1810 during refit. Here we have another nice picture of USS United States with quarterdeck, figurehead and 2 rows of stern windows (??): Please note that there are no portholes shown... OK, that's what we have by research. Now let's have a look at the kit. HERE (Link) you'll find a very good description and some pictures (German language). Following topics have to be criticized: Scale: obviously NOT 1/150 but very close to 1/220 Outboard: portholes, closed bow, lids of gunports are parted, no hammock nettings Stern: clearly the stern of USS Constitution in the 1870s until today Inboard: no fiferails along the breastwork, gratings too simple, round skylight over Captain's cabin Equipment: only one cutter on the main grating, no clamps or ringbolts Rigging: all masts are molded as one part including yards that are molded in 90 degrees to the ship's direction, double dolphin striker In fact, you get a simplified "Constitution" kit which is miles away from USS United States. So you've got the choice either to build USS Constitution or have fun with a nearly correct USS United States... guess my choice I further decided to build her in a kind of 1842 configuration. Advantage is, the closed bow, bulwarks, gunlids and portholes can remain. I think these features have been added somewhere in the 1820s or 1830, maybe 1828 during her extensive repairs at Philadelphia Navy Yard. So let's have a walk-around: I sheathed the kit's stern with a self designed one made of cardboard, choosing a simple 5-window configuration: All gratings were replaced by self made ones. I used paper strips. Also the skylight was replaced, fiferails were made out of cardstock and wire, bitts out of cardstock, wire and parts of toothpicks. The boats were another challenge. I also made them entirely from card and paper. I also added hammock nettings and hammoks from tissue, wire and thread and put some crew members and US Marines into place. The paintwork is entirely made with acrylics, note that the bow decorations are not guilded and the white gunport belt is painted to the bows. This can be seen on older pictures of USS Constitution and USS Constellation. Now let's have a look at the pictures: I built the masts completely new, the following pictures are showing the kit's condition right now. The tops are parts of the original kit. OK, that's it for today. Looking forward to your comments. Regards Alex
  21. My next project is the IJN Isuzu in 1/350 from Aoshima. Date of sinking, 6 April 1945, the same as the Yamato. This is a very very bland kit, the box art is based on one photo taken in 1944 after it's last refit, unfortunately Aoshima didn't bother with any of the details on the hull, and there is so little reference materiel available (That I can find in English or any other language) that I have to go off what I can find online. I got the flyhawk upgrade set and will replace nearly everything on the kit bar the hull and decks. I could not face a long project, as the Yamato was pretty much out of the box, this is going to be a kit bash. I purchased the Profile Morskie plans which are great for gun placements and details of the structures but no deck details. As you can see I have done up some planning for the hull plates. Its been a slow start as I've been trying to get my head around hull construction. You can see her compared to Yamato, no where near as complex.
  22. Good evening everyone The kit is ordered, the Deluxe PE kits is not available in the UK at present, should be another couple of weeks The Victory is safe and secure for a while, and will be finished The Workroom has had a bit of a make over as well, i put a window in at the weekend, at last i have some natural light in there and a different carpet as the one i had, it was impossible to find anything when dropped onto it, research http://www.ipmsstockholm.se/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2250&start=30 http://www.kbismarck.com/models/ http://3dhistory.de/wordpress/3d-models/dkm-bismarck/bismarck-high-res http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=144178 http://www.bismarck-class.dk/shipmodels/shipmodels_menu.html https://www.facebook.com/BismaarckModell148Scale/photos_stream http://www.bismarck-class.dk/shipmodels/shipmodels_menu.html
  23. I was originally going to try and build a pob model of the Bluenose. After pricing out the model, paints, tools, shipping, taxes etc I came out with a price of around $400Cdn. I passed it by the Admiral and got the 100 yard death stare, then she asked is there something a little less in cost to start out with first to make sure it's something you'll enjoy. So I'm looking at plastic now instead of wood for my first build. Was looking at Revell's Constitution in 1/96 scale. Your thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bruce
  24. This build log will cover my building of the 1:72 Revell plastic kit of the Gato class submarine. The decals that come with the kit are for the USS Drum and USS Albacore. However, the fairwater, or conning tower, does not match either boat. But it does match that of the USS Cobia, which is what I will model here. Besides the kit itself which is 52 inches in length when completed, I have also purchased the complete "Big Ed" set of brass photo-etched parts for this kit from Eduard. Where I will display it I haven't decided yet, but it will be on the work bench for quite some time. Painting will mostly be done by airbrush, which I am quite the novice at using. But it should be fun to build. While not needing the skills to build like the wooden kits, I wanted to add this particular model to the log entries due mostly to the size of the model itself. (From Wikipedia:) The United States Navy Gato-class submarines were launched 1941–43 and were the first mass-production US submarine class of World War II. Together with their near-sisters the Balao and Tench classes, their design formed the majority of the United States Navy's World War II submarine fleet. Named after the first vessel of the class, USS Gato, the Gato class and its successors formed the core of the submarine service that was largely responsible for the destruction of the Japanese merchant marine and a large portion of the Imperial Japanese Navy in World War II. Gato's name comes from a species of small catshark. Like most other U.S. Navy submarines of the period, boats of the Gato class were given the names of marine creatures. USS Cobia (SS/AGSS-245) is a Gato-class submarine, formerly of the United States Navy, named for the cobia. Cobia (SS-245) was laid down on 17 March 1943 by Manitowoc Shipbuilding Company, Manitowoc, Wisconsin. She was launched on 28 November 1943 (sponsored by Mrs. C. W. Magruder), and commissioned on 29 March 1944, Lieutenant Commander Albert L. Becker in command. On 1 July 1970, the Navy struck Cobia from the Naval Register, and she was towed to Manitowoc, Wisconsin to serve as an international memorial to submariners. In 1986, Cobia was incorporated as a part of the Wisconsin Maritime Museum, declared a National Historic Landmark, and placed on the National Register of Historic Places. Cobia is permanently docked at the Manitowoc River's mouth at Lake Michigan.

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If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

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