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Found 23 results

  1. Build #3 First, a little background The Dragon Source: International Dragon Association The Dragon was designed by Johan Anker in 1929. The original design had two berths and was ideally suited for cruising in his home waters of Norway. The boat quickly attracted owners and within ten years it had spread all over Europe. In 1937 the Gold Cup was presented to the class by the Clyde Yacht Clubs Association. This quickly became one of the principal championships in the class and a prestigious trophy in the world of competitive yachting. LOA 8.9m Beam 1.95m Draugh 1.2m Displacement 1700kg (with mast) Mainsail 16m² Genoa 11.7m² Spinnaker 23.6m² The Olympic Years In 1948 the Dragon became an Olympic Class, a status it retained until the Munich/Kiel Olympics in 1972. It remains the only Olympic yacht ever to have a genuinely popular following outside the Games. Since the Olympics the Dragons have gone from strength to strength. The major reason for this has been the ongoing controlled development of the boat. In 1973 thanks to the hard work of Borge Borresen a G.R.P. specification was adopted, metal spars having been introduced in 1970. This proved to be a major milestone in the class's development. Designed from the first to compete on equal terms with the existing wooden boats, the GRP dragons are incredibly stiff - one reason why boats remain competitive at top level for years. More information: Scuttlebutt Sailing News – “Dragon Class – Stronger than Ever” SailboatData.com – “Dragon” SailingWeek.com – “ANTIGUA DRAGON YACHT CLUB CHALLENGE: MAY 8-9, 2017”
  2. I finally decided to start my first scratch build project after lots and lots of deliberation, I didn’t want something too complex/ ambitious so the starting point was the Amati plans of a kit which is quite small hence the scaling up from 1:50 to 1:25. The Polacca was used by Venetian Fleet to protect the shipping routes of Venice from the Dalmatian, Greek and Turkish Pirates. That lateen sail at the front must have been useful for sailing to windward and perhaps downwind as a primitive gennaker or spinnaker! Expect I’ve a lot to learn but guess I’ll have plenty of time with this Corona virus thing. My version will be over 24” not including the bowsprit so the original would be about 50’ which looks about right. Intend to open up the rear cabin for lights and put a lower deck midships partly visible through the grating.
  3. Hi all, I'm doing this as having bought the plans for the cross section I thought I might as well use the full ship plans too. When I get time I will cut the bulkheads and centreboard. Til then please bear with me as I f I'm not here I will be next door on the cross section. Cheers
  4. It was in summer 2014 when I had the idea to build the French light Schooner “La Jacinthe” after the plans of Jean Boudriot. Together with five sisters she was launched in 1823, and in the following year five more ships were built, among them “La Mutine” (“The Rebel”). As my cutter HMC Sherbourne she should be in 1:64 scale, so I scanned the plans and traced bulkheads and false keel in a way so I could build everything with plywood of 3mm. For that I used Adobe Illustrator, so I could laser cut the pieces in the FabLab of the local technical university. “Printed out” in late summer, you can see here the bulkheads, false keel and deck, a few small parts and a piece for a jig that will help me to build a cutter. When I wanted to start building, alas, I saw that the false keel was totally warped. So I had to go to the university again, and cut everything again, but this time in MDF. And while I was at it, I did everything twice. Just for testing purpose I cut keel, stem etc., I will user these parts as templates when working with pear wood. In the upper left corner you can see a jig that will act as a bulkhead former. But why do everything twice? I simply couldn’t decide: build the “Jacinthe” or the “Mutine”? The latter is shown in Boudriot’s book, after a refit in 1835. The main differences are closed and elevated bulkheads, new deck layout, iron pumps and anchor chains, a steering wheel, new chains and a new bowsprit, set in a different angle – in general, the “Mutine” appears much more seaworthy than the very lightly built “Jacinthe”. So the plan is to build both: a fully rigged “Jacinthe” in natural pear wood, and a hull model of a black-painted, coppered “Mutine”. The twin build should not be boring or repetitive. Well, have to build two identical hulls, but all the other details mentioned promise to be sufficiently different from each other to make this a very interesting project. Here a look of the two schooners, “La Jacinthe” (1823) ans “La Mutine” (1835): The foundation is already laid: the two sisters can hardly be told apart yet. This will be a slow build, and quite an adventure; my only experience in building wooden models is the Sherbourne kit, which I modified to my liking and where I learned the pleasure of working from scratch. And as I have to do the heavy sanding outside, progress is dependent of the weather (yes, the with stuff is snow, for those having the privilege of living in a moderate climate). Cheers, Gregor
  5. Ahoy there! This is the beginning of my build log of the Model Shipways Benjamin Latham POB kit. DISCLAIMER: This is my first POB kit, so this is not the place to come to learn best practices, but maybe I can offer a little insight between my stumbling through like a blindfolded elephant in a china shop! It's been a while since I have been active on this forum, but now I have my degree, have a job, have an extra bedroom to set up my workshop, and have a little extra time to do some modelling. Many many big life events ago, I had a build log for the Model Shipways Pilot Boat Phantom, which you can find in my signature, but about 5 moves later, she is in rough shape and I would like to start with something fresh and get back to her sometime in the future. Anyway, I have had the Banjamin Latham kit since I started my Phantom all those years ago and have always been drawn to her lines. I finally mustered up the courage to crack open that kit and try to tackle my first plank on bulkhead kit. This first post will just be a quick catch up to show the little progress I made before starting this log. I am looking forward to this build and excited to be an active member of MSW again, please feel free to pull up a chair and get comfortable, because I am sure I will need your help along the way and it is sure to be a long endeavor. Here are the obligatory photos of the box and its contents: <Placeholder> I broke out my trusty Stanley no. 12-101 and Veritas chisel to carve the simulated rabbet in the marked up false keel. Here is a picture showing the false keel and a few shavings. Oh, did I mention that this was take two? I accidentally carved the wrong taper in the first keel/stem assembly and Model Shipways was kind enough to send me replacements, as always. I love the support they offer for their kits! You can see the old false keel in the bottom right of this photo. Next, I completed the construction of the keel/stem assembly which consists of two pairs of two parts all glued together, carved the tapers near the bow, and glued her to the false keel. All in all, it came out okay, but I can definitely tell that I am a little rusty. As you can see in the second photo below, the glue joint for the keel/stem assembly is a bit off, but I made sure to make it as flush as possible on both sides, so hopefully it will not be noticed once the hull is painted. I think the rabbet came out pretty well! If I can find the old photo, I will post it, but I used tracing paper to transfer the profile of each bulkhead to some manila folder material to use as a template for shaping them and making sure that they are symmetrical. In the meantime, here is a photo of all the bulkheads shaped and ready for fitting to the false keel. I drew the WL-6 line on both sides of each bulkhead as well as the appropriate letter designations. Following the lead of others, I decided to trim off the bulkhead stanchions from each bulkhead so that they can all be installed at once later in the build and this should make them all match better since they will all have the same fabrication and installation method. Well, that is it for now, just wanted to get this build log started and quickly up to date so that I can post progress as I go. I remember getting a lot of helpful tips, insight, and knowledge from everyone who stopped by my Phantom log, so I would like to say thank you in advance to everyone for the great ideas and encouragement along the way. I am very much looking forward to taking this journey with you all. Cheers, Max
  6. Hello everyone and welcome to my first scratch build, although i've been planning to build this for a while now this will most likely be a slow build. First came to me when looking through the russian sites that this seems like a pretty good ship to start on, i plan for loads of detail so there was no point in making it any smaller in scale, inspired by dafi and his hms victory build i'll hope to add figures and all sorts but not too much to over crowd it. I'll also be attempting to add micro LEDS to this build. The ship will be built mainly with pear and some boxwood with frames of lime. So first apologies for the poor quality photos, soon to be fixed. First i start off with the keel using 3mm plywood instead of making it in parts i decided to just make it one whole solid piece which wasn't easy when you're a noob with a scroll saw, which is why i decided to drill wholes to guide the saw.
  7. Joining a distinguished club on MSW. Jumping into my first plank on bulkhead after two solid hull builds.
  8. All, Back to ships! With so many excellent builds of the Syren here on the site, I have decided to put my skills to the test and give her a whirl. I'll need all the help I can get, as this will be my first plank on bulkhead build. Looking through the other logs, I can tell there will be more scratch work than I have done to date, too. I am really looking forward to the journey! All parts have been accounted for. Plucking out the keel board, the very first order of business is to straighten it out. There is a slight curve to it, so I gave it a quick soak in water and have clamped it flat. We'll see how it looks in a couple of days when dry. The curve is slight, so filler blocks would very likely be able to set it right, but I like to make things a little easier on myself. Making those filler blocks is something I am not quite sure that I am looking forward to doing. Well, I can say this: my woodworking skills are going to get a workout! Onward! ~john
  9. Hello, one guy more building the Triton - as same in here do scaled in 1/64. As I'm completly unfamiliar with the complexity of a ship's riggimg I decided to build a hull model. As I do not own a lyth I'll use the information from the Gardiner's book "The History of the Frigat" to be free to omit all the 28 guns ad the swielguns, too. Yes I'm a scaredy cat. Tomorrow Im going to print and copy my pile of files in the copyshop. Due to the interst in frigats and my wish to build in a group I decided to take the nice Triton of the Meremaid Class. So I'm going to share my ups, ops and downs with all of you. I decided to build her in 1/64 due to the size of my flat, as some others also do. So I don't expect to get a Museums-able model out of my bonsai workshop on the one hand and on the other hand I hope not to get something I'll have to hide for the public in an open fire place. So I'll try to build something intermedium. Before the very beginning I'd like to have some more literature beside the Gardiner. Is there some thing you would advise me to buy for this build aside the AotS book of Diana I've shot at Ebay and 'm waiting for? Thanks for your help and friendly intrest.
  10. Hello everyone. When I first reposted this log, I did so in a hurried fashion and did not include any background details on this vessel type or the nature of this build. Here is a short thumbnail of the history behind this vessel type. The Biloxi schooner is a two masted gaff rigged, centerboard working schooner. These schooners were built along the Mississippi coast as early as the 1830s and the last pure sailing schooner was built at Biloxi in 1929. The hull form is characterized by a markedly shallow draft, broad beam, with a midsection having a low, hard turn of bilge. The cross sections were most always rounded with no hard chine. The stern is usually flat or slightly curved across its face and set with a moderate rake. The stem is usually a clipper style stem with a stem head reaching out under the bowsprit. Sometimes, we see a more upright stem, and in a few cases, the stem was rounded and called a spoon bow. In the more usual clipper bows, there is a simple head trim. The sheer in the earlier schooners was more marked than in later boats. These boats were used for fishing, harvesting mostly shrimp and oysters, but also some other types of seafood in local waters. With the development of the local seafood canning industry in the 1880s, fishing schooners were built larger over time. While earlier fishing schooners averaged about 40-45 ft in length, the later schooners of the 1920s averaged around 60-65 ft. The fishing schooners were built in large numbers in the early 1900s because of a 1902 state law that prohibited oyster dredging under motor power. The Bowers oyster law shaped the way the seafood industry did business and inadvertently kept the fishing schooners around for another 30-40 years. The law allowed shrimping under motor power and so there was a trend towards building auxiliary schooners in the period beginning in the early 1900s, but the development of purely motor powered shrimpers developed alongside the schooners. During the mid to late 19th century, freight schooners were built larger and heavier than the smaller fishing schooners, carrying, lumber, charcoal, and locally produced naval stores. They were either carried out to the deep water harbor at Ship Island, about 10 miles off the coast for shipment abroad, or over to New Orleans, by way of Lake Ponchartrain and the basin canals for local sale. With the development of railroads and trucking, these schooners lost their place in the coastal freight industry. Many of them were abandoned in local rivers etc, but some found a new life in the seafood industry in the 1920s and 30s. Although this type of schooner was built in several different locations In Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, and the Florida pan handle, Biloxi was a single place where more were built than anywhere else. That is why it became known as the Biloxi schooner. In fact, in the Smithsonian's National Watercraft Collection, Howard Chapelle applied that name to this type of schooner. This model is a commission, but the client is a good friend of mine who is allowing me to build at my own speed. The model is intended as a gift and it will be named for the recipient. Thus I will withold the model's name until the end. The plans were developed from a several years study of customs house records, local contemporary photographs, newspapers, builder's half models, various private collections, and some personal archaelogical studies. The most interesting and useful documents I have found are the old tonnage admeasurements from the customs house. These admeasurements contain detailed internal measurements of the hull that were used to determine tonnage. I have studied these documents and the federal regulations that governed them and I can now use them to "reconstruct" plans for some of these schooners. This is how the plans for this model were developed. The model is loosely based on a design for a Biloxi fishing schooner built in 1900 by Martin Fountain, Sr., called American Girl. I have reduced the size of the model to fit what the client wants in an overal finished model. The plans for this model yield a schooner about 41 ft on deck and about 8 tons. This would be a typical schooner for the 1890s. Here are some pics of the components and the beginning of the construction. Comments welcomed. Russ
  11. So, with the Harriet Lane nearing completion and the Emma C. Berry moving along, I figured it was time to start a whole new adventure. This Aeropiccola kit dates to 1974 (according to the drawings, at least). It is a very solid POB kit, plans are in Italian but a brief translation provided for the labels into English. No instructions, just the plans. My intent is to work through the plans, referencing the Model Shipways instructions for ideas. I will also be using the Hackett plans and the redrawn version by William Baker provided in The Frigate Essex Papers (1974). I also have The Anatomy of the Ship The 32-Gun Frigate Essex by Portia Takakjian, as well as several articles from The Nautical Research Journal and Model Ship Builder Magazine (Seaways Publishing). I have ordered a copy of Portia's plans for the Essex and the Model Shipways plans as well. My goal, over the time I am building this beastie, is to take it slowly and try to combine the best from all sources available to me. We'll see how that works out! This is quite a change from the Harriet Lane - 1:70 scale as opposed to the 1:144 for the Harriet (and 1:32 for the ECB). This one measures about 27" stem to stern for the framer - total length when finished will be 43 inches long, 13 3/4 inches wide and 29 inches tall with the rigging. The kit includes all the rigging, including material for sails. That decision is a long time off, so no idea yet whether to include the sails or not. Here, then, is the obligatory photo of the box (note this is one of the kits Maryann was selling last June). Some of the contents The Bulkhead framer and bulkheads laid out for inspection And, the bulkheads dry fit - all slid in slick as could be. I did have to file the fitting between the central portion of the framer and the bow and stern pieces. No glue has been harmed as of yet, but the first bits of saw dust have been made. So, welcome, pull up a chair, and look forward to seeing how this goes!
  12. I started this build over a year ago but what with one thing or another, I have made only a very limited amount of progress with it. Brain injury sure introduces a bunch more challenges! Anyhow, I have the two hull halves about ready to begin planking. Billings directs that they should be planked separately, then the two halves be stuck together. In the meantime; While I experiment with plank bending (accompanied by the frequent discarding of broken planks) ; I fight with myself over rebelling - glue the two halves together now, then plank the entire thing. I really would like to hear recommendations one way or the other, from those of you who know better! ( Given My lack of experience,This clearly includes all of you)! Help please!
  13. Hello all Here we go Welcome to my META 484 by Billing build Please feel free to comment or add suggestions There is just not much information available out there for the Meta that I can find - I found some photographs of completed models but nothing as far as build logs are concerned. If somebody has a possible source for any detail etc I could check it would be appreciated. Here are some which I have found: Meta Images and Meta images 2 For the time being, I have put the La Toullanaise on hold until I receive the planks and wood I ordered. I was just frustrating myself trying to do something and achieving nothing. So for now - I have decided to start the META 484 from Billing. This is an old kit [would love to know exactly how old] which I bought from a friend a good while ago and its been sitting on my shelf for the best part of 2 years - time to do something about that . Fortunately, the kit appears to be complete along with its accessories as well so that's a plus. And if needs be, I can pilfer wood from the La Toullanaise kit until my stock arrives - woods are similar between the two kits - and looks like they are from the same manufacturing era. First inspection of the kit revealed everything foreseeable to be present - most importantly, the PLAN! Opening the box. The wood appears to be VERY dry so I will have to watch that All the wood seems to be in the box
  14. Hi I have been lurking on this forum since just after V2.0 came to life. I really love the ships that come to life on this forum, created by some very skilled and talented people. My hat off to all of you. :) (You know who you are) I believe that I have learned a lot by reading and watching. I did not say anything because I did not believe that I had anything to add. I have been doing a lot of scratch building of RC aircraft over the years and also enjoyed flying them. But after losing most of the use of my right thumb after a motorcycle accident I could not fly anymore. I have finally decided to take a plunge into the deep water. I have ordered Chuck's laser-cut short kit of the HMS Cheerful and I'm now waiting for it to arrive, should be here early to mid January 2016. I have already made a mistake Only after the order was shipped did I see that I could have ordered it in Swiss Pear - Bummer. (Chuck, I will be contacting you shortly again for the keel and transom parts in pear.) My plan is to build the Cheerful in different woods as I find ships build from contrasting woods to be subtle yet bold. A good example of this is the HMS Vulture by Dan Vadas. I want to build the keel, visible parts of the frames and rails in Swiss Pear. Planking is to be in Castello Boxwood and deck in Holly. Deck furniture will most probable be a mix of pear and boxwood. Well, that is it for now, back to waiting Cheers Deon Engelmann
  15. So with the rebirth of the site I have a new motivation to post my build log instead of just stalking everyone else's. I moved on to wood ships after branching out from plastic ones and got hooked. Since then Ive build the Phantom and the MS Mayflower. The Mayflower as well as Chuck's amazing practicum helped me learn a lot of techniques. And that brings us to...the Niagara! Im mostly done the prerigging stuff and am looking forward to making all the masts. I decided to make the cannon/carronades run out but ropes stored. I also decided to spend half a millennium making all the tackle for the guns. Another coat of paint is needed to touch up the oops and things but I'll be saving that for last as smudges and things will undoubtedly happen. And enough words...on to the pictures! My amazing ship holding device.... And heres where I am now, making all the parts for the chainplates. And in other news im still terrible at soldering. Blacken-it is my new best friend I feel like im not uploading these images correctly...any tips of how to make them smaller until you click to expand them would be appreciated.
  16. The following is the reconstruction of my build logs for the Sherbourne following temporary loss of the Model Ship World Site in February 2013. First posted May 6th 2012. === It started with a birthday present in January of £200 from my daughter. What could I possibly want that would have some meaning over the year? I suddenly remembered that as a younger chap I had really enjoyed rigging plastic model ships, and had had a long-time yearning to work with wood. So on to the web, find out about ship models. Amazon for books, found 'The New Period Ship Handbook' by Keith Julier. It didn't give much (any) detail, but I thought maybe the Lady Nelson would be good. So researched that. Found this forum. Many days reading the variety of experience. Asked questions, thought about the Chatham as well, tried to get it but it was out of stock, so bought the Sherbourne Kit. My plan was not to go for the perfection of the other builds, but to get a basic understanding of the whole process, as I knew I would be making some frightful mistakes, and likely to be a bit messy as well. How right I was! Read all the planking advice on the Database, how to make filler blocks etc, then plunged in. Bought the kit, checked all the parts, stuck the tiddly little ones into the bags in the photo, put the frame together. Thought I'd be a clever little so-and-so and follow Danny's suggestion of inserting nuts in the hull to take pedestals at some future date. Even lined the bolts up with the bulkheads and epoxied the nuts in -- ensuring no glue was caught in the threads. All well and good ... so far.
  17. Please not another „HMS Surprise“ I thought this international forum literally crowded with them, but when I looked through the pages, there were not so many examples, at least they didn´t show up to me jet. Well, there are a few possible approaches to that specific frigate: The real HMS Surprise ex Unité , which was sold (and broken up? ) in 1802 The fictional Frigate from the novels of Patrick O´Brian, beautiful but hopelessly over rigged and, over guned (which was the exact thing I did) The “Movie Surprise” (ex Rose) which played the role of the famous ship so well, that it almost dominates the public impression of the small frigate. When the book "The frigate Surprise" of Brian Lavery, Karl Heinz Marquardt und Geoff Hunt came out, I finally found my personally image of the beloved Surprise. In 2011 I started the project as a classic PoB build, scaled the plans of KH Marquardt to the dimensions of the existing NMM views of the real Surprise, took many details from the various novels of POB and finally the colors and overall appearance from the artwork of Geoff Hunt. Voila! As the Surprise is not jet finished, it is too early for the gallery and somewhat too late for the build log. If you are interested, I show some pictures from “the past” and start rigging up the yards and sails, which will hopefully come to an end this year.
  18. Hello, everyone! I've been taking some time to read up on all the planking tutorials offered here, and I'm trying to conceptually apply the techniques that I'm learning to my first build, which will begin in a week or two. I believe I understand the planking process in theory, but I've noticed that, with the exception of the "Hull Planking Techniques for Beginners" guide (http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/plankingprojectbeginners.pdf), most of the guides seem to describe a technique in which each individual plank is spiled to fit the lined-off sections on the bulkheads. While this method seems easy to understand and certainly appears to provide a beautiful fit and a great-looking hull in the end, it requires you to use your own wood, as the spiled planks you cut out require stock that is wider than the planks that are included with the kit. This method seems ideal to me, as it puts less stress on the planks, and seems to make for an easier planking process, as long as you take your time cutting out each plank as perfectly as possible. However, I'd like to strengthen my understanding of the process used if one were to plank using the strips of wood included with the kit itself (for the sake of clarity, I've written my questions in bold). Based on the guide, it would appear that, in this case, you are to use the measurements of your lined-off bulkheads to plot a curve along the top side of each plank (i.e., the upper edge of the plank when the model is upright, with the keel on the bottom, as if the ship were sitting in the water). The top edge of the plank is then tapered along this curve (without ever tapering the bottom edge of the plank), minor adjustments are made, and the plank is moistened and heated, then bent over the bulkheads and clamped, where it is allowed to dry in order to take the shape of the hull. Once dry, the plank can be adhered to the bulkheads. Is this correct? From what I have read, the only plank to which this method does not apply is the garboard strake, which is tapered along its bottom edge to match the curve formed by the bottom edges of the bulkhead where they meet the keel. The top edge of the garboard strake (when the hull is positioned upright) is not tapered. Do I have that right? Finally, I'm curious about the wale. Is this where most people start planking, working down to the keel? Is this plank tapered at all? If so, which edge is tapered -- top or bottom? While I had originally assumed that I would simply plank my hull using the strips that come with the kit, I've become quite interested in the spiling technique, as the hulls I've seen that result from the use of this technique look amazing. My kit has not arrived yet, so I do not yet know the thickness of the planks that are included with it. If I were to acquire some 1/16"-thick sheets of basswood, would this thickness be comparable to the thickness of most first-layer planks that come with these kits, or is 1/16" too thick? I appreciate the help, guys!
  19. Hello to all of you... "Every voyage starts with the first step." is an old Japanise saying... so I'll step foreward in a brandnew terrain to me. The kitfree built I start is about a Nova Scotia Museum's Tancook Whaler built in 1979 and still afloat - last known pictures are from the Small Reach Regatte 2014 - http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?161372-A-celebration-of-small-schooners - she was driven by John Eastman and Ben Fuller. My information is from the book of Rob. C. Post "The Tancook Whalers - Origins, Reduiscovery and Revival". The drwaings with in are very fine and - as I enlarged them they stayed fine. The planset can be found on page 62 and 63 the also scaled sail plan is printed on page 81. (If I'm lucky with building this schooner - I'll buy the Chapelle plans from the Smithsonian. So I decided to dare the first scatchbuilt with a small boat in a big scale.. so the result will be one foot long - as long as a modern Tamiya tankkit. It's a really tricky thing you do!!! My deference to all of you... ...modelbuilding without any even semi-manufactured model part... a completly new experience to a modelbuilder spoiled by Tamiya oder Dragon kits. So thinks differ a lot to plasic kit building. Okay I got it - the hull is bult upside down... and the bulkheads are rectangular to two planes - the baseboard as the the CWL. the bulkheads are slipped in the mortises of the baseboard - looking that CWL comes equal to CWL. I've bought some 4mm plywood for the innerhull (the stem and stern are 4mm thick. And I've got a flat 12mm plywood pice fore the yardboard I'll vave to fits everything on. I#ve found this very often in here - so I copied this. This is what I got by leafing through the webside. But now I've got some questions left: But how do I get the stem and stern to the basebaord - can I glue them to it? I think I'll have to look at every singe bulkhaead if it is open to the top my comparing with the profile drawing - and the drawing the new lineing in there - is that right? Thanks for your intrest and your answers. Yours, Moony
  20. I started this project in summer 2012. I choose this kit after browsing and reading many of the build logs in MSW 1.0, and because it has only one mast (I’m not much of a seaman except in the rather romantic way of reading Patrick O’Brian’s novels for the second time). The box contained all the promised parts in an orderly fashion, and a very short/thin instruction booklet. But there is help: Watch and learn on MSW 2.0 (in my case especially from Tony’s Sherbourne at http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/335-hmc-sherbourne-by-tkay11-–-caldercraft-–-scale-164-1763-a-novice’s-caldercraft-sherbourne/) Download the construction manual of Caldercraft’s Brig Badger, it explains and illustrates a lot of the details (i.e. principle of hull construction, guns …) which are very similar to the Sherbourne (http://www.jotika-ltd.com/Pages/1024768/Manuals_Badger.htm) Buy George Bandurek’s book “Super-detailing the cutter Sherbourne” (http://www.grbsolutions.co.uk/5.html), an inspiring guide to make much more out of a beginners kit Keel, bulkheads and deck came first, then balsa fillers fore and aft. Then I soaked the plywood bulwarks before bending them with the help of tea mugs and a good bottle.
  21. Hi All, This is my second build log on NRG Model Ship World. I have recently ordered the Caldercraft "Nelson Navy" HM Mortor Vessel Convulsion kit. I am still waiting for my delivery of the kit, but I am more than excitied to work on a decent kit with a well documented building process, unlike my ongoing build of HMS President by Sergal/Mantura. I have chosen Convulsion due to build and display space limitations.... I spent all of this weekend umm'ing and ahh'ing about the maximum size of a model, and eventually the "Boss" decided Convulsion was "big enough" for our 1 bedroom flat. Oh well, I'll just have to get a bigger flat for the next build!! As mentioned above, my build of HMS President is still ongoing, but I have been disheartend to a great degree over the lack of decent instruction for the teadious task of rigging. Currently, the Main Mast has all the shroads and running rigging in place, and all masts have the Fore-Aft standing rigging in place, but the prospect of running all the shroads, and ratlines on the fore and mizzen masts fills me with dread!! So, with this attitude in the back of my mind, as I slowly tackle President, I decided to give myself a decent break from her and work on something new. My initail thoughts for a new project were Granado, HM Yacht Chatam, or HMS Snake, but all were deemed too big by the Boss and so I gladly settled with Convulsion. Cheers, Jonny
  22. Hi All, This is my first Scratch Build Log on MSW. I am currently in the closing stages of my Caldercraft/Jokita HM Mortar Vessel Convulsion build, and needed a break from the tiny bits of the build, so I started this build. Background: Since I was a kid, I've been building, modifying, tweeking, and sailing on sailing boats, from Optimist dinghies to large Swan 65's, but my real ambition in life is to build a sailing boat for myself. About 3 years ago I decided that I would build the Vagabond Keel Sloop designed by the Naval Architect Edwin Monk. Vagabond measures 19'-6" (6.00 metres), and the study plans were available in a book called "How to Build Wooden Boats - With 16 Small-Boat Designs", written by Edwin Monk. The design is for a hard chine hull shape, making it easy to build for the novice boat builder, but my intention for my potential full scale build was to soften up the chines, and make her hull slightly easier on the eyes, and quicker on the water. So why build this model? Firstly, it's is to see what the hull form looks like in reality. I can just about read hull drawings, and understand the sheer lines and profiles, but I'm not a boat builder or Naval Architect, so it's not as simple as reading the lines and putting two and two together. Secondly, I spoke with my mother on Sunday night. She said she wanted me to build her a "little boat" that she "could put on her mantle piece". No matter how many times you say "I don't have the space for another model build", or "I don't have enough materials", you can not say "no" to your mother! So I had a think, and thought about my aspirations with Vagabond a few years earlier, and decided to do it! I decided to build Vagabond as it seemed like an easy build, with a simple rig, and looks pretty! Meets all the criteria! Build Process: The plans are drawn (or have been redrawn) at a scale of 1:20, so I directly transferred the dimensions from the study plan to the model. Having study plans readily available in the book, and having three strips of 1/8 inch Balsa (3mm Think), I started by tracing over the outline of the keel and main bulkheads, four in total, and doubled them up to make them 1/4 inch thick. Using some square stock balsa I had remaining from my Convulsion build, I used that to square up the bulkheads and attach the deck (1/8th Balsa) to the keel. Because this boat is designed with fairly agressive chines (it was designed in the 50's or 60's, so the chines haven't been 'optimised' like modern day performance yachts), I rounded off the corners of the chines and using the study plans measured out the planks on both sides. I ran the planks along the bulkheads and trimmed them to suit, pinning and gluing them down when happy. To give additional strength to the balsa, I squeezed a blob of PVA glue on to the planks, and ran it along all the seams between balsa planks. After the PVA glue had 24 hours to dry, I covered the whole hull in wood filler, to smooth out any areas that may be dipping, and left out any raised areas. I've not taken any photo's at this point as it is has been a "spur of the moment" build, it's only now that I've decided to start a build log. Next Stage of Build: So, my next objectives on the build are to sand the hull smooth, and then plank the hull with the remaining Walnut strips from my Convulsion and President builds. The waterline will be painted white, and the topsides either varnished or oiled. The cockpit and deck will be painted white, and the cockpit coamings and dog house will be planked in walnut as well. I am employing my wonderful Admiral to make sails, as she is a wizard with the needle and thread! I will also build Pushpits and Pullpits from brass for the bow and stern. This is will be the first time I will have soldered brass since Secondary School, so I may be taking a few attempts with this aspect of the build. I also have a fairly limited time scale to complete this build, as my mum wants the model before she goes away on holiday for a few weeks in the middle of April. I'm not sure if I can meet this deadline, but I certainly will try. I will be posting photo's of the build soon. Cheers, Jonny
  23. Hi every one and welcome to my Modelshipways USS Syren Kit build log. (This is a re-post of my original log posted last week and may differ somwhat from that original posting) I purchased this kit from Piel Craftsmen of Newburyport, MA. Bill over there is great to deal with and the purchase experience was a pleasure. This will be my first attempt at modeling a model ship. While the Syren is a pretty complex ship for a beginner, I felt that the excellent practicum included with the kit by Chuck would be a great help and make the kit approachable for even a beginner as long as I take my time. (Which I am finding difficult, because as I progress I become more an more anxious to feel the satisfaction that comes with successfully completing each step). As you view my build log I encourange anyone to chime in when they see something I could be doing better or just to provide some freindly advice. A word of advice of my own...write your log in another word processing program (like Word or Text Editor) and cut and paste it into the forum's editor when you're done...this will save you a ton of extra work in the event that you lose connectivity mid-post or experience a page expire/timeout. Also you'll have a record of your work in the event there's ever an issue with the site. EDIT: I thought it might be a good idea to list some of the tools I found essential to the build as I encounter them here: 1. A good vise with a suction base and swivel head. 2. A Mitre Box. (I used X-acto's mitre box. but for cutting the fillers and larger pieces a large on may be useful) 3. Calipers!! I used a digital set on I got on Amazon cheap. 4. Good metal straight edge (large and small) 5. Clamps (of all types and sizes, can't have enough) 6. Good brushes of all sizes. I use a synthetic for applying wood glue as well. Just soak in apple cider vinegar between uses to keep clean. 7. A small square with a level bulb. Empire Level E255 is what I use. 8. Graduated cups for mixing stains at measured ratios (so you can repeat the look). Harware stores have them in the paint section. 9. Good set of needle files. I use an X-acto 73610 set that has several small files with different cross-sections (Flat, Rounded, Square etc) 10. A good rotary tool. I have a Dremel and a Smaller Proxxon. Use the smaller one more. 11. A small micro or pen sander, I use a Proxxon 28594 here and it has save TONS of time. The paper wears out quick though. 12. A good sanding block 13. Sandpaper: 80, 110 and 320 grits at a minimum. 14. Wood Filler. I use Zar Neutral. Wood not included with kit 15. 5/32 x 1/32 wood strips (at least 2 for upper whales) 16/ 12 x 6 x 1/16 Basswood sheet for bulwark rails. 17. Balsa for bulkhead filler blocks. Thanks for reading.... Next Up....Bulkhead Former, Rabbit and Keel.

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