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Found 14 results

  1. I am building the HMS Thorn Swan class of 1779, so far there is only one plan from the National Maritime Museum that makes any referance to this ship. She was part of the fleet that invaded Trinidad in in 1797 a fleet that carried my ancester to Trinidad. It is my plan to video the entire build on an ipad and post videos as i go along. So far i have made 5 videos on the build.
  2. I’ve been scratch building POF models since about 1995, having retired 7 years ago as an orthopedic surgeon. So my projects have been drawn out quite a bit until more recently. I started with the USS ESSEX, following the Practicum of the late Portia Tachajian, followed by the Delacroix “LE GROS VENDRE”. David Antscherl’s Practicum on the Swan Class intrigued me as it represents the methods used by the English in the 18th century, as compared to that of the French of the same period. I also met David at the NRG annual in New Bedford last year and was drawn in both by his personal appeal as well as his amazing attention to detail and methodology. So, I’ve kicked this project off, sticking to the Antscherl Practicum in 1/48 of the Pegasus, and have progressed as far as completing the bow and stern framing and beginning the full frames. The bow and stern are roughly fared and sanded. I’m fitting chicks between Cutty is and have decided to keep the sided dimension of full frames equal from floor up instead of dIminishing. I admit to being a little confused about full frame spacing and sided dimensions. Perhaps the reader could enlighten me. The text seems to indicate the use of spacers on either side of each futtuck joint, and seems to say that the spacers are as thick (sided) as the frame, at least at the floor level, and indicates the frames to be cut from 10” stock. I assume there to be similar spacers between each frame pair as well as between each frame half. Adding all that material up at those dimensions, and locating the station lines on the elevation plan as defined in the text as being mid way between the two frame halves, I understand, perhaps mistakenly, the space between each set of station lines to extend from midway through the first frame pair spacer, through a whole frame pair , to mid way through the next frame pair spacer, or the equivalent of two full frames. Using the dimensions above, the space occupied by all that exceeds the length between stations on the elevation plan by a considerable amount. So something is wrong with my interpretation of the text, I fear. HD
  3. Hi, There where many times since I started building my Kingfisher that I thought I should start a build log. And today is the day. I've started the kit last november and spend a lot of time since. Not that I have made much progress, but it is not a race and its tremendous fun building. I ran in to trouble when I was making the hawse timbers, I did not like how the shape came out. It was time to have a little diversion from frame building and find the courage to make new parts from scratch for the hawse timbers. So I left the path of the instruction and started building the stove, some gratings and the gun trucks. That was a lot of fun. The gun trucks are almost finished and wait for the arrival of replacement cannons from The Lumberyard. ==================================== So that's what was left from my old build log in Google cache. Unfortunately the rest was shot into cyberspace and is now a pleasant memory of 2 years and 7 months of logging the progress of my Kingfisher. And probably the longest story I ever wrote in my whole life as I don't like writing at all. So instead of trying to get everything back I'll put a selection of the pictures I did keep on my laptop up in this post and will go on from there. Maybe I'll add text along the way but don't want to be kept from modeling to much. Most of the pictures say more than words anyhow. Update: So Dave (Midnight) saved my log previous to MSW’s move from 1.0 to 2.0. He was ever so kind to share these files with me to rebuild my buildlog. Unfortunately I’m not able to convert the PDF’s back to text to get them back into my buidlog. So instead of typing the lot over again I decided to put the PDF’s on a public share where every body who’s interested can download them from. To make live a little easier I compiled a small index so you now what to expect in each PDF. All the PDF's can be found here. I know it's a bit of a disappointment not to be able to put the information back into this log but the good news is nothing is lost. Any comments of how its working are welcome. Remco
  4. Admiralty Models has been working with a very talented 3D computer modeler who is building us a Swan class ship model (Pegasus). Besides the exceptional quality of his work, I can see the enormous benefit of a 3D model in showing how all the various pieces fit together. As the model's construction closely follows the actual vessel, it's build may be viewed in sequential layers. Our builder is precisely following the four volume Fully Framed Ship Model series of books, bringing David Antscherl's seminal work to life. In the near future, we will be offering the fully framed and fitted out computer model to those in the process of building a Swan class model or are contemplating building one. Between the Swan books and computer images I believe we will have the most comprehensive instructions and photos available for building a fully framed ship model. Stay tuned!
  5. Hi, I will be starting my second scratch build and I chose HMS Pegasus 1776, Swan Class sloop, using the plans from Admiralty models and all four volumes of the TFFM books by David & Greg. Also a full set of plans was bought from NMM and the wood package from Hobbymill in Swiss Pear wood with some highlighting in Boxwood. I intend to leave her mainly in frame with a small amount of external planking - maybe from wales up, and will be using fully chocked joints and correct framing using the Disposition of frames plan. Internally I'm thinking of only framing Upper Decks with some planking, possibly the lower deck but just framing. Depending on how I feel when I get to that point will be the decision on Rigging her. I include pictures of the main keel parts completed, halving joints were used and cut on the JimSaw, the forward keel piece with the boxing joint was cut from larger stock on the scrollsaw and the joint was chiseled out with care. This will be slow starting as I am in the middle of rebuilding my workshop and I am also going to be working on my Confederacy when I need a rest from Pegasus. Here begins another journey. ben
  6. I was shocked when I saw this set of drawings for the first time. He was so gorgeous and had so many beautiful paintings. I watched for a long time and slowly appreciated them, trying to understand the craftsman's state from my current perspective The ribs of British wooden sailboat are very complex. When making HMS enterprise, the ribs are simplified. There are two advantages: 1. The difficulty of making is reduced, the production is convenient, 2. The cost is reduced But for HMS fly, I want to show its original structure as much as I can, which is a big challenge for me, but I like to challenge Here's the scale, which can be adjusted to any scale
  7. Just thought I would share these incredible pictures of the figurehead for the Swan Class Sloop "Atalanta" by David Antscherl. The figure is boxwood with a stem of swiss pear. The brackets and trailboard carving are also boxwood. Note the gold leafed apples. Just stunning carving by hand and almost hard to believe possible at this scale. Its so tiny. I love the facial expression.....Mona Lisa smirk... Enjoy!!! The glass dome is just 4" in diameter. Chuck
  8. I have not decided what I am going to do to reconstruct the build log. Like most of us, I did not save any of the text accompanying the photos. Over the next few days I will figure out my next step. But now there is a new beginning so I will post some pictures of the progress so far. They are not the best pictures (I have to rely on ambient lighting) but I wanted to get the build log restarted. When Sadie heard about the disaster she insisted on getting back on line! Toni
  9. Well its time to make fresh start. So a new beginning a new project can you all stand another swan class build. Have not decided which one as the title says would like to do one that is different any suggestions. So it begins with a white tube from Admiralty models. Its the basic plans that will start the journey. Beware this is the first time I have ever done anything like this. So I hope you all will keep me on the right course. I'll try and make it different than other swan build where other members are leading the way in quality. In the next I will take a look at my version of a slipway (posh for base board) Yours Gary
  10. HMS Kingsfisher 1770 This is a build of HMS Kingsfisher 16, of 1770, a Swan Class Sloop of War. I will be using the book series, The Fully Framed Model by David Antscherl and Greg Herbert. Of the workshops that David and Greg have hosted, I have attended seven so far, and will be at the up-coming one in February. Plans on hand Plans from the National Maritime Museum are the following: Kingfisher (1770) ZAZ4654 (J7973) Lines & Profile (Design) Kingfisher (1770) ZAZ4651 (J4866) Lines & Profile with décor Kingfisher (1770) ZAZ4652 (J4865) Midship Frames Kingfisher (1770) ZAZ4653 (J4867) Decks Cygnet (1776) ZAZ4691 (J7503) Frame (1773) David Antscherl's Mylar TFFM plans with the Masting plan. Harold M Hahn plans for Kingfisher (1987) in 3/16" = 1' 0". These were enlarged to 1:48 scale on Mylar by my local blueprint shop. The reason being that they are very close to ZAZ4653, and much easier to read. I also have Robert Hunt's kit #003 and plans of Kingfisher. This was the first kit sold to the public. This kit may be up for sale soon to finance some new tool purchases. Naming Convention Let me explain the spelling of HMS Kingsfisher. I have downloaded all of the current volumes of Naval Documents of the American Revolution. They can be found at the following Web Address: http://www.history.navy.mil/research/publications/documentary-histories/naval-documents-of-the-american-revolution.html If one has any interest in naval history of the American Revolution check out these documents. Just about every Person, Ship, or Event are listed by date. There are well over 500 pages that have entries relating to HMS Kingsfisher. Most are from British documents, such as Ship logs, Witness Reports, and Vice Admiral Samuel Graves official reports to the Admiralty. In all of the entries the ship is referred to as HMS Kingsfisher, ( some entries she is named as HMS King'sfisher). The only entries that have 'Kingfisher' spelling are from Rebel Americans reporting her movements or actions. more to follow Bob W
  11. I have started the cross section model...mostly drafting. But I figured I would start a log. I am waiting on arrival of a variety of machine screws and nuts to finish drafting the keel parts. They will be set up in the usual fashion you folks have seen but I will post that once its ready. Here is the overall plan I am working from. Hopefully it will look like this once done...planked on one side and open framed on the other. I have started drafting the frames. There will be some bent frames with curved top timbers but this is just a plain straight one. Here are the laser cut pieces.....but you will not build the frame with the parts laid out like this. Because the laser cuts on an angle, it is best to strategically flip certain parts to get the tightest fit possible. You wont get one side with a large gap which is typical. Therefore no sanding of the char is needed ...nor should you attempt to sand the char from the edges of all joints that fit together. They will fit perfectly as is. The only drawback is that you will see the seam which in some instances was not the case as they werent tarred. But thats OK.... So I flipped them as I show in the photo below....flip parts "C" and "D" for the best fit possible. Note the dirty side on the flipped parts. There is no need to build each frame on top of a plan trying to get the frame to come out the correct shape. I have created some tabbed guides which make it very easy. I built five of these frames and they all came out the same...Each one took just a few minutes. I used titebond on the seams. Just take care not to glue the guides to the frame. See below. All glued up. Then the guide tabs are cut free leaving the frame strong and ready for sanding. I sanded every edge to remove the char except for the notch in the bottom chock which stays unsanded. It needs to be a perfect press fit into notches I created in the rising wood...which I will show later. But the finished frame all sanded up up looks like the one below. The top cross bar is added for strength and also to help register all of the frames once they are glued onto the keel. That is what those two notches on the cross bar are for. After I draft more frames it will make more sense. Chuck
  12. The Swan Class Sloop and I have as some of you know a longer history. Two years ago I started my build log for the build in 1/48. A few month later I had to stop the build because I got some problems with my eyes. At the beginning of this year I started again. I decided to change the scale of my build to 1/32. I hope that some of you are intersted in my build and like to follow my log. So let's start again
  13. Hi all, I have started work on the Cutter for my model of HMS Vulture (link in my signature below for those who haven't seen her) and decided to make a separate Build Log of the project. Some time ago I purchased the Timbering Set for this model from Admiralty Models. Timber in the set was cut by HobbyMill who are no longer in production, so I don't know if the Set is still available. EDIT - It's not. The "kit" includes a resin plug to which the frames are temporarily fixed until the boat takes shape. There are NO plans or instructions included - this "kit" is even more in the way of Scratchbuilding than the ship itself is. Here's a pic of the "kit" : There are 5 packs of timber (not sure of the type) ranging in thickness from 0.031" to 0.1" for things like the Keel, Transom, Gunwale and Thwarts. There are also 2 packs of Holly - one is 0.031" x 0.031" for the Frames, the other is a sheet of 0.015" thick for the Planking. All the timber has been milled to HobbyMill's exacting standards and looks to be of excellent quality. There also seems to be a lot more timber than I'll need - probably enough to make TWO Cutters if I don't waste any . Danny
  14. Hi guys, I need some help from our Swan Class experts as well as our other members familiar with David Antscherl's TFFM series of books. I've been reviewing the section on Fore and Main-Mast partners on the gun- /upper deck (TFFM Vol II, pp 61-63) and I'm interested in adding the exposed portions of these mast partners (i.e. the areas protruding above the deck planking) to my Pegasus kit. Below is the NMM upper deck plan of Pegasus showing the main mast partner encircled in red: Based on this, as well as the TFFM plans, I drew my four interpretations of this particular component: Drawing A shows the chocks (letters A to F) slightly higher than the deck planking and the mast wedges (G) slightly higher than the chocks and octagonal in shape: Drawing B has the same arrangement as A, except for the circular shaped mast wedges: Drawing C is similar to A, but includes the carlings (H and I) on each side among the components above the deck planking: Drawing D is similar to C, except for the circular shaped mast wedges: I apologize in advance for the crude, ill-proportioned nature of my drawings, I think my 2 year old makes better shapes than me May I know if which of these 4 drawings is the most appropriate for Pegasus? Personally, I am leaning towards B since most of the scratchbuilt Swan Class ships I've seen show the carlings H and I to be lower/below the deck planking and both TFFM and Goodwin's "Construction and Fitting..." book state that the octagonal shaped opening becomes rounded upon opening out or finishing of the mast partner. However, I am curious as to why the NMM plan shows an octagonal shaped opening for the mast wedge. Is this the finished shape of the mast wedge or did the plan intend to show how it looked like prior to opening out/finishing, hence the octagonal shape? Thanks in advance for the help guys.
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