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Found 4 results

  1. hello everybody, I've just joined this forum and have two newbie questions in regard to building the keel of the Caldercraft 1:64 HM Schooner Ballahoo. I've read one or two build logs on here where people have left these parts off the false keel until after the bearding line and rabbet has been made. Being a beginner, I haven't done this on mine and gamely followed Caldercraft's instructions and glued the 5mm walnut keel, stem, sternpost together then onto the false ply keel (I plan to paint the keel white so avert your eyes from the glue stains) without a bearding line or rabbet. So, what follows is probably fairly naïve / basic question, should I try to: a. establish the bearding line and attempt to carve the rabbet with these pieces in place; b. remove the walnut pieces and start again ( likely difficult as they seem quite solid with the glue and potentially causing other problems); c. carry on regardless (the instructions suggest to plank from the bulwarks down and dont mention the garboard plank) given it will be planked again and have a coat of white paint in the end. Presently the keel is quite straight without any warping so I'm loathe to undo everything (the bulwarks are not glued in yet). Would welcome your thoughts given this is my first wooden kit, it is double planked and I plan to paint it. The picture below shows the slight rabbet caused by the walnut keel being 1mm thicker than the ply keel - If I understand correctly the bearding line will follow the line of the bottom of each bulwark? My second question is in regard to the bow, where the plank templates (part 13 and 14 p and s) are misaligned with no. 1 and 2 b/hs. The photo below illustrates(again the bulkheads are not yet glued in and have been roughly faired). I am guessing the best thing is to glue this aligned along the bulkhead bottom (where the bearding line would be...if I had it...haha...) and sand the top flat with the deck level, but would welcome thoughts from others if I am setting myself up for trouble later on with something. thanks for reading and any tips in advance! neillydone
  2. I am building (first build) Lynx, Mantua Panart. The hull is double planked and per the instructions each side will be 2.5mm thick. The keel, into which I am cutting the rabbet is only 5mm thick. Clearly this is not thick enough for all four planks to sit in their rabbets. Do any of you splendid folk have any advice. I was thinking I would not take the first skin into the rabbet and sand the planks down to the barding line. Then only put the outer skin into the rabbet. This, however would probably mean single thickness only in the dead wood area at the stern. Any thoughts?
  3. I just ordered the Lady Nelson kit from Amati/Victory Models. This will be my first model, and I'm excited to get started on it. However, I have a question about the plans for this kit. Do they include any sort of diagram or pattern for the bearding line and the shape of the rabbet joint? I seem to recall seeing a set of plans for another Amati kit, and there was no mention of this feature... I know that I can just look over the plans when the kit arrives, but in the meantime, I'm curious! So, if you've worked on this kit before, please let me know. Thanks!
  4. I am getting ready to start rattlesnake, I Dave at the lumberyard sent me the most incredible wood package imaginable so the questions begin. I am taking photos to hopefully start a log soon. Anyway, I am marking the rabbet when it occurred to me that if I make this open frame at least to the wales, do I need a rabbet? Maybe I will do more of a cutaway look than pure admiralty, ie planking at the bow and stern for a few inches then left open. Any thoughts and any logs to look at are welcome Thanks Ira

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