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  1. Hi everyone. I am based in the UK and am taking on what I expect will be a substantial project. I am not new to modelling, as a teenager, I built numerous Airfix kits, starting out just assembling them out of the box and finishing up filling my bedroom with Aircraft and Warships completed with detailed paint jobs and made to look as realistic as I could. Joined the Model Club at me Secondary School where we built balsa and tissue flight ready models, I made a free flight glider and later on a Powered Cesna for Radio Control flight. I was born in 1958, and my father, who was a keen modeller, died in 59 so have little to remember him with. Some time in 57, after the Cutty Sark was opened to the public, he started a model of the ship, built from scratch, and finished it before his death in 59. The model was sold, not by me and a sore point, but was restored to me about 5 years ago, but was in a sorry state. It had lost all its rigging and the deck fittings were either missing or damaged. Over the last few years, I have wanted to restore her to her former glory, and I had immediately gave her a fresh covering to her deck and re-did the painting on the hull. Then I stalled. I had no plans to look at and much of what I had got back showed that Dads versions were a little crude. I wanted to restore her but also wanted to improve on his version, thinking that there are much more in the way of resources available to me than were to him. However, I do not want to turn this into a totally new model and intend to use as much of the original parts as I can. Its been a while since I did any detailed modelling so am a bit out of practice and have never taken on such a daunting task, so appreciate the article on reviewing build logs of newcomers to the hobby, but I hope that my reason for selecting such a complex task is clear. I am lucky in that I live in London so have access to Greenwich. I did visit the ship when I was i my early 20's, long before the fire of 2007, I watched the tv coverage of the fire when getting ready for work, ending up being late for work as I could't take my eyes of the images on the screen. I keep promising myself a revisit now she has been restored and is once again open to the public but never seem to get the time. The hull is very similar in size to a 1:90 scale and my budget is limited, so much of what I need to make has to be from scratch. There are some things that I am just not going to be able to fabricate so will have to buy them, such as Deadeyes and Blocks and others will just have to have simulated as I can afford to buy 70-80 Chainplates. So I will be doing my best to stay true to the ship but I also have to stay true to dads vision of the ship, so forgive me if I have to take a bit of poetic licence when recreating some things.
  2. I built this model of the Great Harry back in about 1970 when I was a teenager. I'd previously made models from plastic kits and carved from solid blocks of wood, but this was the first time I'd tried a plank-built model. It was based on the reconstruction in Björn Landström's excellent book The Ship, which showed a copy by the author of the Anthony Roll illustration of 1545, and the author's conjectural reconstructions of a midship section and a side view of the ship above the waterline. All of this was before the raising of the Mary Rose, so it was based on far less information available than we have now. I drew up a set of plans and proceeded to build the model. I got the hull complete and painted, added masts and spars and sails, and was adding shrouds, deadeyes and ratlines (nowadays I'd do this before I added the spars, but I've learned a lot since then). I even had a couple of figures on deck and another in one in the mizzentop. Unfortunately I'd made the stern far too wide and when I saw another picture of the ship by the same author, showing her with a far narrower stern, I decided to pull the stern off and fix it. Then life got in the way. Suddenly I had to move to the other side of Australia, about 4000 km (2500 miles) away and never got a chance to revisit the model. It stayed in its box, getting progressively more damaged as I repeatedly moved house. I've lost track of a lot of the stuff that broke off over the years, the sails went dark brown and started to rot. Finally, after all these years I've had the chance to revisit and, I hope, return the ship to her former glory.
  3. The Central Ohio Shipwrights has been chartered to restore an old model of a British carrack of the 16th Century. It sports four (or five, if you count the bowsprit). The mizzenmast and bonaventure midden masts have lanteen sails. While there are Spanish carracks of similar design, they only influenced GHs construction. This model has few lines in place, has broken woodwork and is in sore need of cleaning. It is missing a few pieces that will have to be reproduced. Club members are researching, drawing rigging plans, inventorying, and cleaning. Stay tuned.
  4. My late uncle built this model in 1956, and I'm wondering whether it is possible to learn which company made the kit. After he recently died, I asked his caregiver to set it aside for me. As you can see, she was not very careful about protecting it until I was able to pick it up. Also, what is the best glue to use on these damaged masts? Something that sets quickly? I can't see how I would be able clamp them in place. I'm going to do my utmost to restore this model the best I can because I can't even think about throwing into a landfill.
  5. Hello to all who followed me here from my prior build log of the James B Colgate, and to all those who are interested in the bone and ivory ship models made, mostly, by the French prisoners taken by the British navy in the Napoleonic wars. I was recently asked to repair an attractive example of the type that had some substantial damage over the past centuries, as well as suffering some repairs, good and bad. In this log I will detail my progress and, in addition to some techniques that I have used before, I will ask for additional ideas from the collective wisdom of our community here. So here she is in the photographs sent for me to consider doing the restoration. I asked for digital shots of the entire model and close-ups of the damage. First, the overall look, including the wooden base, the primary damages, and the large glass case. With the case removed you can see the extensive damage. The bowsprit, mainmast and mizzen are all clearly broken and the associated rigging in disarray. The balance of the standing rigging seems to be mostly intact except for the mizzen stay which is broken just below the crowsfoot. Sitting on the base are the flag and staff for the stern. In close-up here is the bowsprit, with the jib boom broken at the level of the bowsprit cap and the Y-shaped martingale hanging, literally, by a thread. I don’t recall seeing that type of martingale on any of the POW models whose photos I have seen. Even at this stage I thought it was probably a later replacement. The mainmast was snapped just below the crosstrees at the base of the t’gallant mast. From the way the rigging lines retained the kinks and bends I was pretty sure that they had been hardened in some way. This could indicate that much of it might have to be removed and replaced. The mizzen was similarly snapped below the t’gallant top. In addition the mizzen t’gallant mast was snapped as well about halfway up its length, just where the hole was drilled for the t’gallant lift. Here the rigging was also kinked, but more worrying was the mass of overlapped rigging lines around the doubling. I have seen this before when prior restorers have simply looped new lines over old ones and glued the mass together. Based on these pictures I gave the client a very vague ballpark idea of the cost of repair to see if he was serious about going forward. I told him that if he was, I would need to see the model in person and evaluate it in detail before giving him a firm price. After a few months of thinking about it he brought the model to my Brooklyn studio and left it with me for examination. In this posting I examine the hull and its fittings. The model was uncased and the glass cover removed. It was made of ¼” thick fish tank glass and I was surprised at how heavy it was. By my bathroom scale it weighs some 19 pounds! This probably contributed to the damage. Anyone lifting the cover will have a hard time unless he is prepared for the sudden weight. Trying to lift it clear would be difficult and the lower edge might well have contacted and broken the tops of the masts. In any event, the model matched the photos, which is not always the case. With the jib boom in approximate place the model measures 15 ½” x 12” x 4”. By measuring the spacing between ratlines (3mm) and the height of the bulwarks (11mm) and the height of the rope rail amidships (15mm), I determined that the approximate scale is between 1/80 and 1/100. I could not be more certain because none of these has a standard height and the modelmakers were not quite exact in rendering them. Two of the cannon and their carriages were loose, and a third was found detached on deck. The hull and deck are planked in bone with ivory (elephant or whale tooth is unclear) making up the balance of the structure and carved details. She carries 40 guns, 12 in each broadside on the gun deck, 5 on the quarterdeck, 3 on the forecastle. This is a lot for what appears to be a small ship. She is certainly not a match to any of the 40-gun ships in my library. She sits on a series of wood keel blocks with a larger built up central cradle. Three metal pins, two seen here and one in the center, go through the blocks and into the baseboard. When received the model did not sit vertically, but listed a bit to starboard. Ahe bow there was a nicely carved figurehead of a female bust with a Greek-style helmet and a pugnacious expression . It looked to me to be in the wrong place, slid down below the hair rail. Behind it was a mass of greyish putty hiding some additional damage. There was a similar mass on the port side Despite its small size the lower gun deck cannon are made to retract. Here they are retracted, then extended. The retraction mechanism can be seen through the open main hatch. The cannon barrels are mounted on a moveable wood strip. The client also sent a video taken of the interior through a borescope. It is poor quality but it does show the presence of some springs which would push the cannon out. Unfortunately the cords to operate the system are missing. On deck just ahead of the mizzen mast is a carved seat for the officer of the deck. This is a particularly French detail, even though the model carries English flags. The locations for the detached cannon can be seen against the far bulwark where the prior glue has yellowed. Hidden behind the rigging is a metal post where the capstan should be, and a single stand for the ship’s wheel, although the wheel and second stand are missing. A ship’s boat hangs in davits at the stern. The thwarts for the boat have been repaired before with a glue/varnish that has yellowed with time. Just ahead of it is a curved boomkin for the main yard brace, but no lines are tied to it. The rudder is clearly a replacement. It is too thin and too white, while the pintles and their straps are not properly set on the rudder. That was my detailed examination of the hull. In the next segment I will document the detailed examination of the masts and rigging. Lots of problems, as you might expect. Be well, stay safe. Dan
  6. I was recently commissioned to restore to "Original Condition" A 1:100 model of the steamship Albertic. The model was knocked over and sustained considerable damage to the port side lifeboat deck Funnels and railings along with vents and all sorts of lines and wire stays. I have made extensive photographs of the condition as I received it, and have begun recording the removal of the damaged parts that were still attached, A few surprises that were not evident when I viewed it at the clients premises have come to light. I cobbled together a quick trolley so that I can move the model around, I will make a lightweight dust cover to keep the dust off the model. I will no doubt be calling on the expertise of the membership for advice as I move forward. As tragic as the damage is I am hoping that this will be a good experience and that I rise to the occasion with a smile as things become repaired. here are a few pictures to show the extent of my task. Builders Name plate Port side sustained the most damage Starboard side suffered mostly inertial damage The funnels took a beating because they are heavy and brass A lot of loose parts were piled on the deck in front of the bridge The stern end of the port lifeboat deck is badly bent and twisted The stairs didn't fair too well either Below the port lifeboat deck is the most damage on the hull I am really hoping that this area can be reworked without having to repaint the entire side, we will see? A box of the loose pieces now lifted off the ship Ouch This will keep me busy over the next couple of three months. As I was removing all the big loose parts I was noticing how much of the fine lines and wire cables have also been damaged. many of the parts were attached with micro brass pins, all the lifeboat davits for instance. Michael
  7. Hello, This is a restoration effort on the Sergal 1/78 scale HMS Victory originally constructed in the mid-1980's. My Uncle originally constructed the ship and it has been in the family ever since. As age caught up with my Uncle and dimentia started to take hold, he decided to do an "after the battle scene" and with a propane torch reduced the ship to what you see in some of the photos. When I found the kit, my Aunt was getting ready to throw it in the trash. Seeing that the hull was in pretty good shape, I knew I could not let the ship get thrown away. After obtaining the original plans, extra parts and books I have begun the restoration. I have been a modeler for many years, but this is my first opportunity to work with wood ship kits. Having read through some of the build logs on here before the crash, I know there is a lot of experience and knowledge here. Feel free to let me know if you have any advice or direction. Thanks for following my restoration/build log! Mark
  8. Last week I had the opportunity to acquire a model made in Germany in the 1920's. My interest in this particular maker/makers/guild models came from the Shipwrights of Central Ohio (further referred to as SCO) club's restoration of the Great Harry. I think the Great Harry is a neat model even though it's a decorative model. The model I acquired was a wreck but very reasonable priced. I told both my wife and son that I was off to buy a plastic pink flamingo as decorative ships have about the same amount of respect and appreciation and have very little value even when restored. I have a modest amount of respect for this model as it's almost a hundred years old and it does hold a historical footnote in model ship history. This is a fanciful, caricature model of a Carrack warship. Because it may not truly represent any particular ship I leave her unnamed at this time. I can't determine what country's navy this model is supposed to represent from the heraldic shields and painted sails. If someone can provide any input, please do! To me she looks a lot like the Mary Rose per the attached period painting because of the heraldic shields she carries amidships. The maker/makers only had pictures from books to work with and buyers would only have had vague mental images of those same pictures, this would have given the makers a lot of latitude. These decorative ships came home with tourist from overseas as souvenirs. It's not hard to imagine that friends and neighbors liked "that ship" they saw on their well traveled neighbors mantel and the stories that went with it. They may not have been able to afford a trip abroad but dad and son wanted a model ship and they could afford to buy a kit. This model sat on the mantel of a well used fireplace. The sails were/are covered with creosote and the original paint and wood have been penetrated. What the heck, it gives it character. The photos are of the model as acquired.
  9. I found an old model of the Kate Cory at a flea market today, that is in dire need of repair. I believe it to be an old Model Shipways kit, but I do not know for certain. Some initial observations: It is actually, mostly correctly rigged. It has a planked solid hull. It appears hand built. The castings appear to be pewter. The whale boats are bread and butter construction (much like the last Model Shipways model that I built). The paint scheme is completely wrong. It’ll make a nice addition to my living room. By the way, pardon the painting mess on my building board, I’ve been tearing through my 28mm miniature collection the last few days.
  10. At long last - having been much diverted over the past 6 months, I will attempt to write a coherent story of this project. In introducing myself I outlined the history of this model which you can read in my earlier postings. Briefly, the model was built by my Uncle Jules (Julius, born 14 Feb 1888) just before 1900, he is photographed with it sailing past him in 1899,so I know it does sail! It has no name. At age 14 Jules went off to sea for six or seven years, serving in several square riggers including the large "Down Easter" Edward Sewall. A few surviving letters home showed that it was at times a very tough life. Among his relics is his sailmaker's palm, and sketch books with some stunningly beautiful miniature drawings of a variety of sailing ships, plus his army issue copper pannikin (bowl) and mug from his first World War service. Sadly he died in Cologne Germany (occupational force) of the influenza epidemic. So this project is my memorial for Jules. My Dad inherited the model in the 1940s and it lived in its cradle on the wall of my parents bedroom until 1968 it was passed on to me. Having had a very quiet life the model was in a pretty sad state. The fore and mizzen masts were infested with woodworm as were several other masts and yards including the jibboom. There were no sails, these having presumably fallen apart over the years, butut the rigging was still recognisable. I was intrigued to discover that the ship had been altered after the sailing photos - in place of a large cargo hatch there is now a smaller hatch, and a deckhouse has been added. You can still see the outline of the big hatch in the decking. The hull is made from a solid piece of timber (lumber) On taking possession I began the restoration by cleaning out the accumulated dust of 60 years or so and fitting new mast sections, and jibboom, plus renewing bulwarks. Then did nothing from 1969 to 2010, except to get a glass case made for it. So for this posting I close now with a few photos of as it was. The fresh paint indicates where timbers have been replaced.
  11. Recently our club, Shipwrights of Central Ohio, was queried about restoring an old family heirloom. We were sent photos of a scratch built galleon with uniquely painted sails. The next day I was digging thru that "I'll get to this soon" pile of plans and I opened an envelope with plans from Popular Science, dated 1926. The picture of the finished ship on the instruction booklet reminded me of the photos we had seen at our meeting. After some quick phone conversations with my mates, I contacted the ship owners. The ship, the Nuesta Senora de Afortunado, had been built by their father in the thirties and refurbished by him in the seventies. The instructions confirmed that the plans I found were for the same ship---we had a million in one event! The owners and I transferred the ship at our Oct club meeting. We were all able to inspect the ship and compare it to the plans. We spent some time afterwards discussing the job and restoration philosophy. With plans and ship in hand the restoration starts.
  12. I have just been given this old yacht or coastal trader by a guy at work in his 60's,his dad used to play with this model as a young boy.It will be a slow restoration there is some good work on it,brass and some plastic.It looks like it's carved out of solid timber.It's about 1 metre long.The name on it is from a steamship that used to call into Lyttelton.I may strip all the paint off wait and see the deck is 10mm solid wood,the strip at the bottom is lead.Any info or advice to it's restoration will be greatly appreciated thanks ron.
  13. Hi all, Just joined the forum. I have a couple of half finished things to finish off, so apologies if I'm not starting from the beginning. First up is my old Cutty Sark model, started in the eighties that was pretty near finished, but I'm now re-rigging. (Next will be my Corel Wasa, that is much less progressed) The model was nearly done, save for some rigging details on the fore mast. However, in order to take it with me to Australia, I took the whole rigging down, so I'm restarting from this point. (Added picture of model some 5 years ago, before packing and transporting to Australia) Just starting on the mizzen now:
  14. Hello All, I have a model that was built by my Great Grandfather for my Grandmother back around 1913. Dad and I decided top rename it Virginia Ruth, my Grandmothers first and middle name. It is supposed to be modeled from a sloop(?) that he was familiar with in the Gulf at Homosassa, Fl. Way back in 1980 or so, I did a cosmetic rebuild for a 4-H project. I want to restore it to how he built it. The hull is hollow and we think it may be made out of Bald Cyprus. All I had to work with was the hull and a photograph. My grandmother said that all the rigging operated as it was supposed to, but none of that is left. He used pulleys and other hardware sourced from England. I guessed on the mast height based on measuring the photo and the actual hull. I repainted it, and stained the top for more of a deck feel. I am open to modifying the ship to make it as close to how it would have been in reality. Most of the hardware on the deck is original and I do have the anchor. The hull measures 32 1/2" long on the deck. it measures 6 1/2" tall at the mast. Here are two photos when it was new. My Great-Grandfather's shadow is visible. Here are two photos of how it looks now. Pretty much a butcher job as I had no idea what I was doing. I am willing to replace and add what hardware needs to be added. I have a set of sails for it that were made from measurements and drawings of the original photo and measurements of the hull. I really do not like the metal bits that are used for deadeyes or maybe in this case turnbuckles. Let me know what you think and don't hold back. Thanks, Russell M.
  15. I found this canoe at a second hand store a while back. Even before I thought of building ship models. I had it on my shelf all this time and decided that I could do something with it. Definitely inspired by @Osmosis and his beautiful Peterboro, recently completed. I always thought that this canoe is out of scale; 20.25” long and a beam of about 3.25”. I has no tumblehome, no keel, no thwarts and a large rocker. But I think I can do something with it. I initially thought I would somehow cut it down to 16” to make it more proportional to a typical canoe but decided against that. I've sanded all the paint off of it. As you can see the planking was very well done. Interesting on how the builder crossed the planks at the bottom instead of meeting in the center. I don’t know if that is a usual way of planking a canoe. I’ve never seen that before. I removed the fore and aft decks and then the gunwales. I want to clean up the inside but I don’t know how. Any advice is appreciated! I plan on stemming the whole thing and compressing the beam by about 1/4” - 1/3”. It’ll be a long skinny canoe but I think that will take away the flare profile to make straight sides or maybe a little tumblehome. I would like to build up the bow and stern to change from a touring profile to a more traditional profile. I think that will help in making it look more proportional. At least to my eye. I’m going to plank over the existing planks. Add a keel and stems. Add nice decks and gunwales. Add seats and thwarts and finally make a nice pair of paddles.
  16. So here's the start of a nice long and deep project. Unknown Whaling bark. I have to assume that this is not a known ship but the builders idea of what one would look like. The first step I took was photo documenting the ship. Old steel and copper wire was used for the back stays and to tie off the yardarms and pulleys I stripped down all mast and deck fittings, shellac was removed from the deck and the hull was stripped due to orange peeling. The hull was found to be a half *** finishing job with tool marks, too much wood filler or non at all. The last one to paint the hull layed down a very thick coat of oil base paint with no primer. This filled in the gaps and imperfections. My next step is to prep the hull for paint. I still have some design elements to consider. For example the chin plates were slotted and no deadeyes were installed. I noticed that the stays on the mizzen were hitting the deck house and someone had cut groves into the Dh roof to compensate. So the new chain plates will be wider and drilled to allow period chain stays and deadeyes. The gunnels need more frame members added. perceptually in the bow area. Question. Does anyone have a rigging plan for the Wander? The mizzen mast is my focal point for this question. It comes up through the deck house roof and I'm wondering where the halyards are belayed. OK now to dump all pics here.The dump is insurance against computer crash. Note1. I'm trying to stay within the thought of doing no harm to the model. ie allowing its future caretaker to undo what I've done. The new paint will be acrylic. I thought of painting the inner gunnals and mast white but that would kill the charter of the original. The rigging will be completely redone with all the wires removed. Yardarms will get better detailing. Note 2. one of the cool things I noticed is how the deck fittings are attached. The builder used pelted dowels which require no glue. I thought this was brilliant and will use the same when replacing any fittings. Also any leads as to where I can find these? Note 3. How old is this bugger? I'm guessing it was built in the fifties. My only clues are the tops and cross trees. they are made of nitrocellulose. Any thoughts about this are more then welcome. BTW they are almost dust now. So wood will be their replacements. Note 4. Any help on mast rigging plans for pre civil war barks will get you on my Christmas card list. Also input on period fittings. TIA.
  17. Before President Kennedy approved operation "Frigate Bird," he wanted to be sure he understood exactly what the launching sub looked like. This model was built to show him the lead ship of the new ETHAN ALLEN class of SSBN. Operation "Frigate Bird," would be the worlds first and only launching of a fully armed nuclear-tipped ballistic missile. Upon studying the model Kennedy decided he needed to see the ship in person. Due to his back injuries climbing the ladders into the ship was not an option. Electric Boat fabricated a special cage that lowered the President into the submarine. Kennedy approved the operation. The launch went off as planned. The warhead detonated over the Pacific with a force 15 times greater than the weapon used on Hiroshima. What happened to this model is really unknown. It appears that for security reasons at the time large portions of the interior were removed. Now that the class is no longer in commision and the technology is declassified I can rebuild the interior to what it should have looked like. However, I can still only do the unclassified version of the Engineering spaces. Even the Nautilus Engineering Spaces are still classified. The exterior will be detailed and repainted as it would have appeared in the 1960s.This model is almost 7 feet long!! This will be a fun project for SUBVETS and all who served on the nations SSBNs.
  18. Its been about a year since my last post; I've been taking some time off. I had gone full throttle on the SIBs for over a year, and neglected the Ship that launched them all for me. So I eventually decided to complete the restoration on the old Santa Maria. The true provenance of this model isn't fully known: My father, born in 1936, once told me that he built the kit as a boy, but he doesn't rememeber how old he was, or how old the kit was, for that matter. Having survived many moves long before I arrived, I remember the ship presented herself to me only in states of worsening decrepitude. As a boy I remember the tangle of fallen masts and sails, and a big dead moth that resided within that mess for years. She sat like that for decades, with most, but not all, parts junked on the deck. Finally, in preparation for a move in the summer of 2017, we were given an ultimatum: Restore the Ship or let's throw her out! These next shots of her, cleaned up as much as possible, prior to work. The Stern has seen better days. Since this restoration took place over many months - and years in fact- and since part of it took place prior to my membership in MSW, I didn't photograph the restoration in an ongoing manner. In fact, half way through I decided to just show the finished product. Eliminating the need to capture every moment of improvement was much easier for me; and quite franky, since my techniques were largely crude, impulsive, and totally uninformed by any nautical wisdom, I don't think I am depriving anyone of any great techniques. I would be happy to respond to any questions about the hows and whys, and most answers will include: balsa wood, bass wood, cyanoacrylate, acrylic paint, waxed thread, hand drills, and more cyanoacrylate. I started with the hull and all the ribbing - all the easy stuff - just to see how it went. After a few months of hull work. Fortunatley, all masts and spars were present and intact! Many vertical ribs were replaced. Painting the stern windows and gilding. Quarterdeck cleaned and restored as much as possible. Rebuilding the poop deck was what intimidated me the most, and it was unease with this next step that made me take a 2 year break and switch gears towards SIBs in 2018. I wanted to respect the original design: It looked like a wire railing, so I tried to replicated that even though most renditions suggests an all wooden rail. Who knows?!? Shileds on the wire poop deck rail were largely destroyed, so I had to be very creative. At this point in the photos I really skip forward all the way to the sails. Suffice it is to say, I reworked the shrouds and ratlines first. For the sails, I bought some muslin of pleasing color, texture and heft. I extrapolated the design from online pictures. I wish I took more pictures after all the sails were up. They hung there flat and dull. It wasnt literally untill the last 2 days, when I chose to fills the sails with wind, that the model came alive! Dont mind the doll's head, my daughter uses it for braiding practice! Thank you for reading!
  19. I just completed restoring a model and would like to know what a fair price for the work would be. I will post the photos in the progression of repairs. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Mike
  20. I work as a volunteer for three days a week and have been entrusted to restore an old sailing ship. I feel somewhat honoured and not lemoned. It is about 12" loa. It must be about 60 years old. It belongs to a widow. Her late husband built it. It gives me plesure to rekindle what he went through. A point of note is how he has set the yard arms in pairs? Question... Is this normal without sails or a mistake? I want to rekindle it as built but here lies a potential problem. When it is fully restored and mounted in a glass case that will be made by us, ....if an experienced " boat waller" happens to scrutenise it and sees that I have replicated the " mistake"???? Then I will have egg on my face!. So..... Please advise me how to set the yard arms. My gut feeling is to space them out as normally. Pete
  21. This log is for the restoration of a model wooden schooner my grandfather made for me sometime around 1960 when I was born. The following information is subject to change as I question my family, but this is what I’ve gathered so far about the provenance of the model. I believe he modelled it off of the Bluenose. According to my mother and aunts after which the ship was named, he built most of it while working on a coast guard ship. He never got around to adding sails, but I remember him mentioning a few times that he always wanted to. That would be the only thing I would want to add beyond restoring it to the original shape. I’m afraid most of the damage is my fault. For nearly 30 years it stood in a nook in our family living room in Halifax. Sometime in the late 80s or early 90s I asked my mother if I could take it with me to Toronto where I had moved some years earlier. I needed to take off the masts and bowsprit to be able to pack it in my suitcase, and foolishly did not think to take a photo before doing so. As you can see in the photos, a lot of the rigging was damaged as well. Another 20 years and two continents later, I’ve taken it out of storage in my current home in Tokyo and am hoping to be able to restore it. I found a few cracks, the biggest one being in the bow. But I think the hardest part will be redoing the rigging. Knowing my grandfather, I doubt it is an exact replica of any one ship but more a composite of some of the ships he worked on as a fisherman and trader out of Newfoundland. My first step was to photograph the model from several angles. I’ll post some of them here. I think my second step should be to clean the years of grime off it. Thanks to this forum, I’ve learned the best way to begin is with cotton swaps and water. I would really appreciate any advice on how to proceed further. I’ve built a few plastic model ships when I was a child, but nothing since and certainly nothing from scratch. I’m not looking to build a work of art, I just want to restore as faithfully as I can the gift my grandfather spent so much time to make for me. I know I could send it off to a professional to get it done right and probably much quicker that I can, but it is kind of a personal journey for me. Thanks for reading this. I don’t have a lot of free time to work on it, but I hope to finish the project by this time next year (summer 2017).
  22. I have had an interest for some time in the E. Armitage McCann models and always thought I'd try one someday. I came across a 1927 version of his Pirate fellucca and Spanish Galleon book on Amazon for $11 and decided to make the purchase. It was in great condition for a 91 year old book. It even had the plans in the back sleeve. A friend of mine if the Rocky Mountain Ship wrights happened to be restoring a McCann Constitution so I thought I'd show it to him. He recognized it right away as he has a 1926 copy and he asked how interested I was in building a McCann model. I told him I was very interested. He then told me he had a Spanish Galleon that needed some restoration amd that if I planned on restoring it he would let me have it. I jumped at the chance. I love old ship models. The older the better. I spent a bit of money on a 1915 ship in bottle just to have one from the era when ships in bottles became popular. So owneing an old McCann style model was right up my alley. Admitably I started work on her right away. So this is after some clean up but here she is. Note the receipt. The ship was sold at one point in 1973 so I know it is at least that old. To the best of my knowledge it between 50 to 90 years old. It is incredibly fragile. The rigging about fell apart looking at it. All of the rigging needs to be redone. Its bowsprit was broken and in need of repair. Surprisingly all cannons were present. Some of the stern sections were broken off and needed replacing. I have my work cut out for me. Good news is I have the 91 year old instruction manual. Bad news is I don't think theres such a thing as a notions counter anymore. 😜 I've been pouring through the book getting an idea of what goes where. The original builder stayed pretty close to the book but did do his own thing on some parts. I plan on doing a mix of the two. Bring some parts closer to the book and leave some parts as the builder had them. I started with the rigging. It all has to be removed. I saved what dead eyes I could but they are equally fragile. I may need to buy a celluloid knitting needle to teplace them as recomended by McCann. I then turned my attention to the deck. McCann states it should be a lighter color. The original builder painted it dark. This is where thing got a little funny as the admiral looking over my shoulder said, "The deck isnt right, its to dark." I told her I was thinking that and thought about painting it lighter per the book. She said, "No, you have taught me to much. It won't look right unless you plank it." She is right, theres nothing better than a nicely planked deck but, this is a McCann model. It was supposed to be simple. I fear my club and I have raised the admirals expectations in ship models. I guess thats not all bad. I'm still stuck in the middle on this idea but I purchased some wood to plank it with. (I needed more ship in bottle veneer anyway) From there I investigated the deck. With a little sanding I found,the upper decks are wood. I can sand them down to the wood and call it good. The main deck however is a some sort of composite and doesn't have a wood grain. The main deck will need planking. I purchased some wood from cards of wood that is paper thin. If I do plank it the increased height of the deck will be very minimal. Thats the question though. Do I paint it per the book or plank it because it would look better? I would plan on a weathered look on the planking to keep this ship looking old. There's a lot of charm in an old ship model and I don't want to lose that.
  23. Hoooooo boy, where to even begin... Maybe some background: My grandfather was a prolific model maker, spending his retirement assembling models with what I can only assume were kits, judging by how long scratch builds seem to take. He passed away some years ago, and his models were either split between his children or sold - I recently inherited one of the ones we kept. That model is the Charles W. Morgan, and boy is it in rough shape. If the title didn't warn you enough, I'll say it again - this poor ship has seen much better days. Here are some pictures: Overview: Top of the Mainmast: The Bow: At the stern, I don't know what this is called, but it's one of many broken ... booms? There's a broken railing on the starboard side: A good example of the general state of the rigging: The hull has also been beat up (starboard forward): Aft on the starboard side: As you can see, there's lots of damage, and that's why I'm here. I need help. I don't know where to begin. I don't know what kit this is, where I can find plans, and what the right order of operations will be. To start, I'll be dusting - I know how to do that! Any tips, tricks, or suggestions are more than appreciated - at this point, I think it's necessary.
  24. Hello everyone . yes i have put cutty sark on the shelf, but i have got hands in a model of a kdy 15 - junior boat. Denmark's oldest class boat constructed in 1928. kdy stands for Royal Danish Yacht Club. The club was founded on July 3, 1866, and 15 is sail arial. the boat was intended as a school boat for young people in the Danish sailing clubs. for that, it quickly got stuck on the name Junior boat. And in my childhood in the 60's, they were to bee seen in every marina. In the 70's, it was also launched in fiberglass. Today there is a long time between you see them now other and more fashionable boat types have taken over. In 1986 to 1990, I was the owner of one - NR 274 "Beat" built in 1961 for Hvidover sailing club. over 400 of them have been built over time, but today it is "adult" men who sail them according to the pictures that are on the web. The link below is for an enthusiastic junior boat's website http://kdyjunior.dk/?page_id=269&file=SeasonsEnd2012/
  25. Hi fellow modelers, I have been a member for some years now, but it is my first real post, other than some questions and requests for advice. I purchased a AL kit in 1989 of the Endeavour (now you are going to ask why do I post this under the scratch build heading) Let me explain: I started the build in that year (1989)and got as far as the masts, starting with ratlines when life in general caught up with me and there was no work done for a loooong time. The model moved around with the family to several destinations and got seriously damaged in the process. All the dead eyes, blocks, canons, etc. was lost. I decided finally in December 2013 that I have to complete the model. I started in all earnest in January 2014 and built until March 2014. Once again I did not build again until March 2015. Now I was motivated to get going and did not stop until I completed the model in July 2018. I had to manufacture the anchors, the stern lamp, cannons, hand cannons, lots of dead eyes, blocks, sails and last but not least, ropes. I scratch built more than half of the model! I have a day job and only have time some evenings and some weekends. The build took about 4 to 5 years. I also built a cabinet during this time where the model is now displayed. I want to extend a special thank you to Banyan who was kind enough to send me a copy of Karl Heinz Marquardt's "anatomy of the ship" This book really made me more focused and inspired me to change a lot of the details compared to the AL kit. I have attached some photos of the damage before I started in 2014 and of the finished model.
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