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  1. Folks - Here is my rebuilt log of my Plastic Constitution build. I've copied the entries over from another forum and I reserve the right to alter a few things to clean up previous errors: I’ve had a Revell 1/96 USS Constitution fall into my stash at a very reasonable price (Overstock.com) and it seems appropriate to take it on in recognition of the upcoming anniversary of USS Constitution’s victory over HMS Guerriere on August 19. I’ve been spewing forth much hot air in defense of the Michel Felice Corne paintings and their representation of the ship as she first burst into glory against HMS Guerriere, so I feel obligated to back up my tirades with action. I’ll try to make this version align very closely to what we see in these paintings commissioned by Captain Hull immediately after his victory (https://picasaweb.google.com/106997252788973852335/PEMMichelFeliceCorneGuerrierePaintings'>https://picasaweb.google.com/106997252788973852335/PEMMichelFeliceCorneGuerrierePaintings). This does mean that I’ll set aside my Heller HMS Victory build for a time - I haven’t lost a bit of enthusiasm for that project - but I’ll apply what I learn in this new effort towards making that one better down the line. Like many of us (most of us?) I’ve built this kit before... a few decades (or more) back. It seems to have been almost a rite of passage for anyone wanting to take ship modeling seriously. I’ll call that one the MK 1 version and it still exists in a dusty condition on a high shelf in the garage: I was never happy with that earlier effort. Much has happened in the intervening years to improve my chances of making a more representative kit - most notably the proliferation of great information on the internet to inform my approach. This venerable kit was originally issued back... well, back before some of us were born(!)... and I think it still holds up well. Certainly there is plenty of flash and injection moulding marks that we don't see in modern kits, but the kit still makes up into an impressive display as we can see in the various log entries across this forum. It seems to be a copy of the 1/48 George Campbell plan model in the Smithsonian collection (http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery/misc/sail/constitution-48-sm/con-index.html'>http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery/misc/sail/constitution-48-sm/con-index.html) - which itself is a refinement of the famous Hull model built by the crew and presented to Captain Hull following his victory over Guerriere (https://picasaweb.google.com/106997252788973852335/PEMUSSConstitutionHullModel'>https://picasaweb.google.com/106997252788973852335/PEMUSSConstitutionHullModel). We see plenty of similarities in the bow and stern between the models and the Revell color guide somewhat follows the original. So the question becomes - does this Revell kit align well to the configuration of the Constitution when she earned her “Old Ironsides” moniker against HMS Guerriere? Well, strictly speaking no... In fact, if built OOB it would not actually represent Constitution as she was configured in any of her wartime cruises. There is a critical difference between the historic model and her modern copy - the Hull model shows 15 gun ports on each side of her gun deck (although the forward most are a bit too far forward) and the Revell kit shows 16. The difference is explained by this journal entry from Frederick Baury - one of Constitution’s midshipmen: 21 Sep 1812 Carpenters cutting bridle ports in bows ‑‑ Lieutenant Morgan and Midshipman Taylor left on recruiting duty. After returning to Boston following the battle, Isaac Hull resigned and command was handed over to the much despised William Bainbridge. He proceeded to make a few changes including the addition of “bridle ports” up forward to help in towing, anchoring, and to potentially serve as bow chaser positions. Unlike the guidance provided by the Revell instructions, these positions would not normally have had a gun mounted. If needed during a chase, a nearby 24-pounder would be hauled into one of these spots to lob a few shots and try for a lucky hit to take out a spar and slow down the prey. To that end Bainbridge made another change as outlined by Commander Tyrone Martin in his overview of Constitution’s armament: Following his succession to command of the ship on 15 September 1812, Commodore William Bainbridge eliminated the 18-pounder, simplifying his ammunition loading and handling problem by dropping one caliber. The gun had been virtually useless, anyway, since the ship's bow structure was not well suited to the accommodation of a chase gun. Bainbridge may have been a jerk of a human being, but he was an astute naval commander and he thought it made more sense to offload the 18 pdr chase gun and make room to store more 24 pdr ammunition for his main guns. So the 16 gun ports and the spar deck bow chaser as provided in the kit could not co-exist. The easiest solution to bring things into alignment is to ditch the bow chaser and the two forward main deck guns and call it a day. You’d likely have the correct representation of Constitution’s configuration when she scored her victory over HMS Java. Since I am trying to show her during the battle with HMS Guerriere, I will preserve the bow chaser gun, but I will need to take the drastic step of filling in the forward bridle ports. If you want to represent her last war cruise under Charles Stewart, then you’ll have to revisit the carronades on the spar deck. Here again Commander Martin provides some insight: [Charles Stewart] reduced the number of carronades to twenty and added two 24-pounder "shifting gunades" recently captured from the British by an American privateer. Designed by Sir William Congreve in 1814, each was 8' 6" long, but being of thinner barrel construction weighed only about 5000 pounds on carriage. The design was an attempt to combine the range of a long gun with the lighter weight of a carronade. The pair sat on carriages like the long guns, and it was expected that, since they were lighter, they could readily be shifted from side to side as combat required. Apparently Stewart had the two forward most and two aft most carronades removed and replaced with one each of the newfangled gunnades. I have no idea how these actually looked when mounted on a carriage, but it might be possible to find slightly over scale carronade barrels and mount them to the two gun carriages no longer needed on the main gun deck. Oh, and you’d also need to paint her with a yellow band - that is well documented. Regarding the carronades... As represented in the kit with the wooden quoins, these would seem to be rather quaint. The carriages on the foredeck with their small trucks would also seem to be inappropriate for 1812. Certainly by the time of Trafalgar it would be more typical for a carronade to be mounted with a pin to the bulwark with trajectory controlled by an elevation screw. I think Karl Heinz Marquardt addresses these same concerns in his AOTS book since the restored ship has these outmoded versions still represented. I’ll optimistically try to modify all of the carronades to include the elevation screws and eliminate the funky rolling carriages on the foredeck. Many folks get caught up in the various permutations of the stern gallery windows. Were there six or five?... or three or eight? The Hull model shows six, but the Corne paintings have five... I’m frankly not concerned either way. I assume there were many chances for the configuration to have changed across the years as different commanders supervised different refits within different time and budget limitations. Perhaps Hull and his crew replaced the six windows with only five after destroying the original gallery windows during their escape from Broke’s squadron (they axed out the windows and some of the transom to position guns to fire at their pursuers). Maybe there were always six and Corne got this wrong. Nobody knows the truth and we likely never will... I’m fine with working with the six depicted on the kit. The rudder on this kit is a bit perplexing... It is moulded with wood grain without any copper plating represented. Hmmm... That doesn’t seem correct. I’ll ponder the idea of putting some of my extra styrene strips to work and setting that right. Of course the kit provided plastic eyelets and rings are worthless - easily broken and a bit over scale. Those will be replaced with wire or PE versions. Somehow I managed to not break any of the plastic hammock cranes on my first effort all those years ago, but I’ll replace those with ones fashioned from brass micro-tubing and Jotika eyelets. Some of the thinner spars are also vulnerable to bending/breakage. I’ll try to shape some brass rod for replacements. I’ll need to carefully consider the moulded blocks - some may be usable or otherwise converted to usefulness. I suspect I’ll replace most with online purchases. The gun port lids will be omitted altogether - the Hull model and the credible paintings of the period (including the Corne series) don’t show them mounted (although the Hull model has a lid for the forward most ports). The pre-formed ratlines, moulded deadeyes, and vacuum formed sails will not be utilized. ‘Nuff said. As for the accuracy of the rig represented in the kit... I am having trouble finding a stable representation of her complete masting and rigging layout. The 1817 Charles Ware diagram may be about the best, but as Marquardt points out it differs in some respects to other seemingly authoritative sources. It is also interesting to note that the Corne paintings are showing crows feet rigged... that is unique. At least it appears that the trysail mast (immediately abaft the mizzen) is authentic - records indicate that Isaac Hull had this added to allow better movement for the boom and gaff. The Hull model clearly shows it fitted as well. I’ll worry more about the rigging when I’m much closer to that phase, but in the meantime I’ll probably fork over the $60 bucks for the Bluejacket manual set and perhaps rely on that for guidance... The biggest bugaboo in this kit is the multi-part decking. Ugh... The forums are full of attempts to mitigate the unsightly seams with various levels of success. Some folks just don’t worry about them at all and instead try to make the rest of the deck interesting enough to be distracting. I’ve even seen one modeler glue “battens” over them and pass them off as a “feature”. My first attempt was relatively successful in aligning the deck sections and eliminating any meaningful gap, but I was hesitant to fill and sand because I was trying to preserve the moulded wood grain detail. I was attempting to follow the “Les Wilkins” method of using a razor or low-grit sandpaper to remove the top layer of tan paint to reveal the base coat of black and highlight the grain (guidance that is also provided in the Revell instructions). I’ve since decided that the grain is a bit overdone at this scale and it’d be best to smooth everything down and use shades of paint and perhaps some artist pencils to impart the wood tones. Eliminating the seams is more important than preserving the grain. There are many fine efforts out there... Here’s one that inspires - well known to those of us who prowl the web for impressive builds: http://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=11091&sid=a22ea2a7adc8efe9b2fcffd0273bb134'>http://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=11091&sid=a22ea2a7adc8efe9b2fcffd0273bb134 Other useful online resources: http://www.history.navy.mil/photos/events/war1812/atsea/con-guer.htm'>http://www.history.navy.mil/photos/events/war1812/atsea/con-guer.htm http://www.navsource.org/archives/09/46/46021.htm'>http://www.navsource.org/archives/09/46/46021.htm http://www.maritimequest.com/warship_directory/us_navy_pages/sailing_ships/constitution/uss_constitution.htm'>http://www.maritimequest.com/warship_directory/us_navy_pages/sailing_ships/constitution/uss_constitution.htm http://www.hazegray.org/features/constitution/'>http://www.hazegray.org/features/constitution/ http://navysite.de/ships/consttour.htm'>http://navysite.de/ships/consttour.htm http://www.captainsclerk.info/'>http://www.captainsclerk.info/ Here are some of the modifications I hope to incorporate along the way: Customized elements: Fill in the forward Bridle ports. Thicken the gunport sills. Add a scratch built galley stove. Show the anchor cable/messenger cable rigged on the gun deck. Display Carronades with elevation screws. Replace rolling carronade carriages with lug mounted versions. Copper plating on the rudder. Hammock Cranes fashioned from brass micro-tubing. Brass Rod for delicate spars. New capstan on spar deck (and gun deck). Paint scheme (guidance from Corne paintings and Hull model): Yellow ochre band ending up forward in a scalloped half-circle. White trim on bow and stern details. Red gallery windows. Red gunport sills/linings, Green interior bulwarks on spar deck. White bulwarks on the gun deck. Green deck coamings/furniture on spar deck. Yellow ochre lower masts with “natural” above. Tops in Black. Black bowsprit with “natural” jib boom. Let the fun begin.
  2. Good day all, I thought I would start this log in preperation for finishing my HMS Warspite build, I have wanted to build a version of the Black Pearl for a while now, but there is no Honest company making a wood kit and only the one decent scale plastic kit, so I came up with the crazy idea of mashing my Peregrine kit into the Pearl. Most inportant Im building this for the wife as a Special request. This will take some doing as the keel pieces and ribs in the peregrine kit will all need modifying with extra pieces adding to them (I am under no illusion this will be a real trial of building skills and my first attempt at a real scratch built ship. I will have to firstly lengthen the keel section/s as the Pearl was about 30 feet longer than the Pergrine - so some additions to be added. So pull up a chair in readyness for this madness - it wont be dull. OC.
  3. I built this exact Revell Cutty Sark model when it was new in the 1970's with my dad. It got destroyed at some point in a move and when I saw this kit on e-bay I had to build it again. He has since passed away but I think he would have appreciated the finished product again. I have always liked the Cutty and my daughter and I had a chance to visit the real one in Greenwich, England a few years ago. It was beautiful. If you ever get a chance then go see it, what a marvelous museum. After that trip I found this model and I was hooked again. I took me about 600 hours to build and rig her. I decided not to put the sails on as that is the way she is now in Greenwich. I bought some brass fittings and railings from a Czech Republic modelling company and they really added to the realistic look. It was a royal pain drilling out the holes for the brass railings and then running ultrathin wire through the holes in each. Some of the plastic was very brittle and it was almost 50 years old and several masts I had to heat up slightly to straighten them a bit. Amazingly, this kit had nothing missing after all these years and in an open box. When she was finished I built a display case which now sits in my living room. Had to get he bosses approval first though! I think it came out nice. What do you all think?
  4. I built the Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark some 50-55 years ago as a teenager. After recently finishing the Revell USS Constitution I decided to do the Cutty Sark again using the skills I have refined over the years as well as the patience that comes with age. This time I decided to work with acrylics as well as enamels to achieve the effects I want, or hope for. Will include more pics as I make my way.
  5. Welcome on the build of Revell's Bounty scale 1/110 I got this kit for free from friends who cleaned up their attic. My first idea when I opened the box. Was oops .... On closer examination, it turned out that the model design probably dates from 1956. The mold is from 1978. Therefore the "lesser quality" of the details to current standards. First, i wanted to throw everything away. But it had some trouble with this idea. So why not start on it and try to add some extra details. This will not be an exact copy. My biggest challenge to make this model a bit nicer than what can be made with the contents of the kit. I am not going to buy extra parts, only items and plastic sheet from the parts box will be used. My only experience with plastic ship models dates from my younger years. I have only experience with military models in scale 1/72 So we shall what the future brings. Main goals are : making of a good model and have fun. Info about the ship and voyage https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Bounty Royal museum Greenwich https://prints.rmg.co.uk/search?q=bounty&type=product Info about the Revell model https://www.revell.de/en/products/modelmaking/ships/sailings-ships/h-m-s-bounty.html the deck is equipped with molded on details. Removing all this and making them new is impossible. That's why I make a new deck first Engrave the deckplanks on plastic sheet Add hatches and "grating" (This grating may be replaced later by something else) Opening for a ladder. I dont throw plastic leftover parts away .... A first test to see if the deck fits. and... it fits With 2 Bradley's in the background to be continued, thanks for following.
  6. Hi everyone , new newbie here As i mentioned in my introduction , i am pretty new to the hobby , the only model i did was an AT-ST from starwars a year ago . I really fell in love with tallship during the confinement and wanted to give it a try . Most videos , and ressources i checked were about wooden ship , and , i know myself , i would give up at planking , also i don't have the proper space and tool for that . So i decided to start slow and take a plastic model . So far so good , i am liking it , and who know one day i may find the courage to get into wooden build So i am a bit advanced in the project , that is when i realize i may need advice and help in the futur . Anyway , here is a retrospective on my build so far ( sorry for the lack of ship vocabulary , i am learning little by little) 1: my first thing was to take the statues from the base and stick those on the side of the captain door , to get a bit closer to the original look ( and also because the vanilla model was boring) also doing a frame to the door with some metal wire 2: was to get some algua/seashells on the hull , i know most ship builder like clean versions , but i do enjoy when it feels it has been used , i don't know it's like there is story telling in the model 3: almost died of boredom with those canons , god that is boring T_T , but the result is satisfying Also i didn't wanted to go full black , i like to play with texture and paint , color variations etc , so i went with wood texture . I had to sand the hull and deck as the texture overall was too strong for my liking. 4: Sanding the ..erhh wheel axis {?} to replace the plastic rope by a real one , also piercing some holes to let the rope goes down . Adding some small metal rings here and there to get a more "detailed" feel 5: Replacing the plastic folded sail of the ..erh..small boat by a custom one . adding some ropes too. 6: trying to bring a contrast in the colors with a darker upper part . 7: i was like a kid here *_* start to looks like a ship indeed 7: i wanted to remove the handrails that goes down into the hull by something custom ( a bit proud of this) new vs original , not perfect but i did fixed it later ( also i added some metal hoops on the grid thingy where the lifeboat will be attached later) Final 8: added some 3d printed barrels ( that a kind friend printed for me ) 9: mounted the upper deck canons captain quarters And that is where i am at . I have been at it for 3 weeks i think , after work at night ( when kiddo i asleep) so i am pretty satisfied with the overall velocity . Do you guys happen to know the name of this rope thing on the bowsprit so i can look up how it's made/rigged, couldn't find any info on how it's called . Not sure if it's a 8 figure or else. That was a long post Thanks
  7. The second project I will start next to the 1/225 Revell HMS Victory is the 24" Clipper Thermopylae. A simplified kit from the 60's. It is the same kit as the 24" Clipper Cutty Sark, with a few parts made for this model. It will not be a very accurate build, but I will make the best I can of it. A few pictures of the kit and it's content: The only things missing are the instructions and the paper sheet with the flags on it. Is there anyone who has this kit in his/her stash, who is able and willing to send these as a PDF or scans in A4 format to me?
  8. Here some photo's of my progress thusfar. I started this kit due to the book Batavia by Peter Fitzsimons. My wife had started it, but has stopped the project. She was not patient enough to continue. All the flash on this kit and the fit of the parts discouraged her. So after reding the book I had the urge to build a sailing ship. The only choise I had was this one. So I disassembled all my wife had assembled and started the kit all over. I have made some progress after the steps you see on the photo's, but haven't made pictures of it yet. This is my first ship build, but I hope you all like it. On this moment I'm in the middle of a move, so the coming weeks I will be working on that. But I hope to continue this build very soon.
  9. This is my first build log here in Model Ship World, but it is about a plastic ship model that I have already been working on for about three and a half years. I may have have many years to go on the project, because I am only working on it here and there and I am doing some modifications as well, which add time. First, some background information. As a child and teenager, I built a number of plastic models. Some of my favorites were plastic sailing ships, and I still have a couple of them that I built over 30 years ago: I also tried to build the Monogram 1:120 USS United States at the time, but never completed it. My interests changed, and I left the hobby until December 2016. Then, I began to build the Revell of Germany 1:96 Spanish Galleon (which, I understand from my research on the internet, is more like a 1:64 or 1:65 scale). It's not a model that depicts an actual ship that once sailed, but more like a general idea of a type of ship from a bygone era (Armada era in the late 1500s). We have a replica ship of a Spanish Galleon here in San Diego at the Maritime Museum of San Diego. I saw it being built, and completed, and I have been on it under sail, and am excited about building a Spanish Galleon of my own. This model has some features in its shape that some may say are not very accurate for a Spanish Galleon from that period. Well, in my modifications, mainly with masts and spars, I hope to change some of that, but I would like to think of this more as a "fantasy" version of a Spanish Galleon -- embodying some of the "romance" of the ship type. Here's what the box looks like: And what was inside it, minus the sails: I originally was thinking of building it out of the box, but decided to do modifications when I realized that I wasn't going to use the plastic sails, because one of them was wrinkled, so it wouldn't convincingly "billow":
  10. Hello everyone. This is my first model ship and my first build log here. English is not my native language, so sorry for any mistakes. I started more than one year ago but I’ll start the log from the beginning, hoping to help other members not to do the same mistake I did. As suggested by the instructions, I started from the hull: The base coat was made by airbrush, acrylic colors (gunze and tamiya), followed by oil filters, dry pastels and oil dry brush in order to simulate the wood planking and to highlight some details. Tyre black was used for the hull, highlighted with gray. A mix of copper and gold, washed with green/blue oil were used for the Munz metal planking. Buff, desert yellow and similar tones were used the base for the wood. Burnt umber filters helped to break the uniformity and bring the wood a better look (at least I hope…) and the details were highlighted by pastels and oils (remember that the detail are raised and not recessed in this old kit). That's it for now. Hope you like it and don't be afraid to criticize!
  11. 1. Constitution - Superfrigate of the many Faces - A tribute to the Basses Years ago I got this nice book by William Bass and his wife in which they describe their findings and their reconstruction of US Frigate Constitutions "Second Phase" as they called it. The years after launch and Quasi War with France - and before the War 1812 - the times of Preble and the Barbary War. Since I saw this beautiful book which was published privatly and therefor did not get the audience it deserves, I did fall in love with this beautiful ship! The Basses based their reconstruction mainly on Felice Corné´s paintings done in 1803 (Side view) 1805 (?) and 1807 (Battle of Tripolis). This one for shure you all know very well. Its - as far as we know by today - the very first visual description of Old Ironsides - done by Felice Corné in Summer 1803 most likely. The Basses did brief investigations even on which viewing angle the artist must have had for his sketches and they could prove that Corné did do really intensive studies of his object. But isn´t the ship a beauty here? Ochre gun strike, no bulkward on foredeck, single dolphin striker, open galion and - that impressive Hercules. Nevertheless, as we will see later: this interpretation causes headaches (at least in my little brain). Here now one of the Tripolis Paintings: Source: https://www.mainememory.net/artifact/6155 You can increase the image if you click on the picture on the Maine Historical Societies Homepage (link). Look at that beautiful lines, the two yellow stripes above the gun deck - and note the position of the channels on the lower of those lines: and here the beautiful Stern of the ship in its early phase: She was a beauty in ochre and black, some white, yellow and maybe a bit gold? .. and a thrilling sight with all that guns! In my eyes the ships earlier appearance is of much more grace and elegance than in her later designs. Fortunatly the real ship is getting closer and closer to that design again with the restorations since Tyrone Martin started that process. But maybe the most beautiful sight she must have been as she was planned: with complete open bulkwards - just as Humphrey intented her to be: Nevertheless: my plan is to rework and pimp the beautiful Revell kit which is ment to show her 1812-15 configuration - but which has some "errors" in it and which does not totally fit to her 1803 appearance. And this 1803-4 appearance - before leaving to the Mediterean Sea - that is my goal. I imagine by now a situation in which the ship is about to be fitted out for sea - maybe some weeks before the above shown departure of the ship takes place. Still with only long guns on the quarder deck... This build will be the very first for me since about 35 years. I was doing a Cutty Sark 1/144 (without proper rigging and bad painting) and a very nice Spanish Men of War in 1/72 - this time with Revell instructed but fully rigging (boy was I proud !) .. So I need to re-learn during the build all the needed techniques. Oh, I was mistaken: I started some years ago the build of the Revell Charles W. Morgan - but the "rush hour of life" did stop that efforts. Now, in times of Corona and possible loss of job I believe I need a time out for some hours a week from crazy daily hectic .. and "if not now, then when?" shall I start with this beauty. I hope you join me in my efforts and I am open for any advice and hint. Thanks for watching me.
  12. Hello Everyone, This is my attempt to build the Flower Class corvette HMCS Snowberry (1/72) in the May 1943 configuration (after Charleston, SC refit) And yes, again a Snowberry. I am working on the old Revell / Matchbox kit, unfortunately not the newer Platinum version. The following aftermarket photoetch & 3d printed parts will be used: David J. Parkins, Great Little Ships https://www.djparkins.com/home.php?cat=303&sort=orderby&sort_direction=0&page=3 - Flower Class deck & fitting set - Flower Class Corvette type “C” Bridge - Funnel and Mast Set - 9” Scuttle set - robe rails (stations) - 4” gun Mark IX - 2pdr. Pom-Pom Gun - 20 mm Oerlikon guns - Hedgehog Micro Masters https://micromaster.co.nz/ - 14’ Drifter Dinghys - Depth Charge Rails - Depth Charge Thrower - 10” signaling projector - 4” gun (maybe) XY Models distributed by Hobby Easy https://www.hobbyeasy.com/en/category/SHP/20/1/maker/YXN.html" - 3D printed Anchor chain Archer Resin Surface Details https://archertransfers.com/SurfaceDetailsMain.html - Resin Rivets HGW Models https://hgwmodels.cz/en/ - Resin Rivets H&B Hobbies https://www.hbhobbies.com/ - RN Colorcoats paints Hecker & Goros Zinnfiguren http://www.hecker-goros.de/products - 1-72.htm - Royal Navy 1939-1945 Gunthwaite Miniatures distributed by Halifax Modellversuch World https://www.halifaxmodellersworld.co.uk/gunthwaite-miniatures-238-c.asp - British and Commonwealth Seamen Accurate Model Part (AMP) https://amp.rokket.biz/ - Ensign Flag Looking forward to comments and feedback and here we go …
  13. Have decided to take a short break from wooden kits and will be building this Revell plastic kit. It is different from most ship kits. Have never seen a container ship kit before so figured it was worth a go. The kit itself is very high quality. There is virtually no flash any where on the parts. Not massively detailed being a container ship. The only real detail is in the ships bridge. Around 70 per cent + of the kit is in the containers. Should look quite colourful when completed. Paul
  14. I tend to build ships that manufacturers don't build...and I wanted to build the Ferriera..the Portugues Barkenine of the CS. She was caught in a storm..and her cargo shifted and she nearly capsized..resulting in her dismasting of her main and top mizzen mast. She spent much of het time in coastal waters and back water ports. I chose to model her in these conditions. She was extremely under maintained and was in severe need of nerw paint and maintenance.
  15. Since she is at the half way point for the build I'll keep this brief for a start. Research in depth along with custom and scratch built parts is in progress. Rigging and masts per BlueJackets model plans. I am changing some colors for a show model style IE mast colors and other smaller boats along with deck detailing enhancements. Cannon's: Ship deck detail (In progress): My humble dry-dock (Mobile): I'll post updates periodically, any questions please ask. The kit was found in shelf perfect condition and is a joy to build. The best CSS Alabama kit out there I feel is the Bluejackets model of her but was to expensive for me to purchase. But I do have the plans from the kit which are historically excellent. Time to complete is another 4 months.
  16. Another birthday gift, started painting the hull so why not start the log? I know I started a revell Constitution when I was a kid, but never finished it. I figured it was probably the smaller one, I didn't think my parents would buy me a 3 foot long model ship, and I didn't see myself having the means to buy the big one myself. So I ordered this kit with an amazon gift card from my sister in law. It's not the one I had... after looking into reviews and videos on YouTube I have determined that I somehow ended up with the 1:96 kit as a kid!! So I don't get to "finish the one I started ", at least not now, but I'm sure I'll still have fun building this smaller one...
  17. Well, here we go again. I am rebuilding my log from the google cache. 02 JANUARY 2013 Hi, welcome to my build log. I haven't built a model in over 30 years, so I have no idea how this is going to turn out...but I am going to give it a good try. I plan on building the model exactly (or nearly so) to the Revell instructions. I will try to show details of my successes and failures. I welcome your comments... I have been working for a week or so, but just now started the log... so the first page or so I dumped a lot of photos. A little about me: I'm a former U.S. Navy submariner (sturgeon class) and mechanical engineer. I have been working in commerical nuclear power for my entire professional life. I have been working and living in Bulgaria for five years now...but my home is in Arizona!! Finally, Kudo's to build logs from AndyMech, lambsbk, LMDave and "popeye the sailor" just to name a few.
  18. First, I want to say thank you to the MSW staff for their continued perseverance in the rebuilding of the MSW forum. It is great that you are back up and running. I had not posted a great deal before the data loss and will try to rebuild the information previously posted. When I was a teenager I loved building plastic models. My last one built was a Revell 1:96 USS Constitution which I managed to build as far as the standing rigging before enlisting in the USAF and transferred out. It was several years before I asked my family where the model was stored so I could finish it. Alas, they thought I had lost interest and it went out with a spring cleaning. Years pass…and while on a visit home I saw a case displayed 1:96 Connie at my brother in law’s house. It really looked good and my thoughts were taken back in time. In September this year I saw an Ebay listed Revell 1:96 Connie kit and thought why not give it another try. After it arrived I realized in a small way the project scope and its difficulty so I started trying to remember all I had forgotten about plastic builds. My first decision point was to figure out the final look of the build: new or with patina. To assist with this I bought a second model which had been started in the 1970’s but only got as far as the hull halves bonding. I got a pretty good price and it allows for some spare parts for the first kit. The copper antiquing was a thumbs down by my wife who liked the fresh copper look better even though I got a pretty good patina with a blue-green wash. So a fresh build without antiquing was the plan. I followed the Revell directions for the deck detail but wasn’t entirely happy with the look. About this same time I started to follow the MSW site and saw the decks created by AndyMech. They looked far better than mine but I thought there was no un-doing the work I had already done.. I thought about the differences for a month before finally deciding to just dive in and try Andy’s method OVER the work already completed on my decks. So the result is actually a combination of the two: First flat black spray to the decks followed by wood tan spray per the Revell directions. They were then sanded with 6-0 sandpaper spray glued to paint stirring sticks to give flat sanding control. This added a nice ‘worn weather’ look to the decks which I was not expecting and took away the gloss sheen. Next I followed Andy’s directions to a tee. I discovered the scoring of the planks works best the closer the ruler and blade are to the work. The result is, in my opinion, not as good as Andy’s but I was much happier with the detail his deck method had added. In addition I had made a decision to mount the ship on pedestal type mounts to allow the fiber optic cable to get under the base. Some of the Connie hulls have a molded spot at the keel to drill out and put bolts in to mount the ship. In addition, they will allow an easy transition from cradle (see below) to base. The square nuts were placed before the hull halves were glued. After the glue dried the hull was carefully aligned parallel to the drill press and using a 11/64" bit the holes were drilled through the keel. See pics below.The insert is for a square nut and the keelson and keel can be CAREFULLY drilled out to accommodate a bolt for pedestal mounting. The square nut has to be placed before gluing the hull halves together (well, it can be placed after but then requires some repair). You then drill top down with a small diameter bit (through the eye of the square nut) and then flip the ship keel up and, change the bit, and drill the exact diameter hole to accommodate the bolt, stopping short of the nut placed in the hull. If you are careful, you will not see the drilled hole externally.
  19. Hello every body. I discovered this forum a year ago doing airfix sovereign of the seas , which was my first ship build. I started few years ago ww2 tanks and warplanes, ww1 planes and ww 1-2 battleships. This is my second build of a sail ship and it will be a custom thing, Im pretty sure when I was a kid I attempted one of these galleons buy never finished and lost the kits due to some moving around. Alright I started last week here are some first pics. Im new to ships dont know the names of things Here s the kit and whats been done so far. 1. Drill cannon ports out for lower deck. 2. Cut it out even more. 3. Basic hull staining 4. Basic decknstain 5.metal cannon weathering 6. Drill eyebolts out. 7. Lower deck for canons. 8. Sand rough edges. Make it woodish I know I made a mistake already Was too excited to put hull togehter so when I will be putting hull in place those eyebotls will be in the way that was because I followes instructions 😛 Excuse me about pics, I am using my cell and if quality or angles aremt good gime some suggestions
  20. I have been following a youtube tutorial on building the wreck in 1/350 scale, I will use the Revell kit I have in my stash to build the same. In addition to the tutorial, I will use these books. The bow section is only 470 feet of the 882 foot long Titanic, in 1/570 scale that is under 10 inches! So far, I cut the hull at 470 scale feet and started the forecastle, the boat deck and A deck. I did get the Tom's Modelworks photo etch set for the cranes and railings.
  21. So its been decades since I last did a model. I did the Mayflower over 40 years ago. It was damaged beyond repair while I was deployed overseas. I figured I'd start back in and replace this model. I got the 1972 kit off of E-Bay. It comes with the plastic rat lines so I thought I'd make them myself for a more realistic look. Let's see if my skills as a modeller/painter have improved over time and if my hands and I eyes can handle doing rigging.
  22. Hello All, I am adding here a plastic revel kit as I promised Bruma to post it here. This was just 2 weekends work as I used wooden leftovers from another build. I had kit left in cellar somewhere and motivated by Bruma teasing that rigging 1:96 its fun. and his fantastic sails but also very beautiful Robs Wiederrich paper sails I thought I could rig here sometime in the distant future. I basically scraped some plastic rails... as looked toyish to me, and substituted by boxwood and alaskan cedar. Hatched covers etc...I improved inner rail with original pattern by inserting paper strips... I am terrible in painting so I left cabins original and installed fantastic wooden deck from his model company. I dont intent to continue in some time now, as I have hands full...i exhanged decoration with etched one, and reinforced lower masts properly and thats it. I hope to continue but in distant future for sure....
  23. Finally ready to start this New Project in earnest, after 2 weeks or so making and Hand sewing Sails for this kit. This is my biggest project to date and will hopefully stand me in good stead for bigger or better things. There will be a lot of improvisations along the way, most notably the colour scheme of which I feel definitely needs developing. Any relevant help and info anyone can give is much appreciated. Thanks ⚓⚓⚓⚓🤺🤺🤺🤺👍
  24. Starting my very much looked forward to British Man O War. From looking at other builds on MSW I gather that this model provides the luxury of personal preference in color scheme. Anxious to see what I go with. I have already painted the deck sections and weathered them like old wood. I have also glued the hull halves together and used putty followed my sanding to hide the seam along the bottom. I followed this up with Vallejo surface primer since I plan to paint it with acrylic paint. I like to make a custom base for my ships since I don’t care much for the little plastic stands included with the kit. For the Man O War I employed a great idea another builder detailed on MSW. Once the hull was glued together I cut off the little tabs then turned it upside down in my drill press and carefully drilled holes through into the inside of the hull. Using epoxy I glued nuts over the holes on the inside that bolts will eventually screw into. I found a nice piece of veneer that I thought resembled the V shaped wake a ship makes as it cuts through the water. I glued the veneer up to some nice oak and cut the base shape to flow with veneer. Once I paint the hull I will assemble it by running bolts up through the bottom of the base then through two black pedestals the ship keel will set in, and then through the bottom of the ship and into the nuts epoxied into the interior of the hull. A test proved the plan results in a solid and level assembly.
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