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Found 31 results

  1. Just recieved 2 model ships from my grandfather and would like to try and restore it. Would love any tips on cleaning, finding or making new parts, painting, etc... Any tip on any part of restoration would be much appreciated.
  2. Hello, I'm 3D modelling the Black Pearl and I'm struggling to find any good reference on how the masts are supposed to be rigged. Any help would be greatly appreciated
  3. I’m working on a Chesapeake Bay Flattie kit from Midwest (my first wooden ship and I’m very happy about the model so far) and the instructions (if I recall correctly) say to brush the sails in clear enamel and I’m curious what the point is and if I should do an alternative. I saw a partial build log where the builder mentioned using a diluted mixture of white glue and water. I tried to google the answer (as I’m almost positive it would have been asked), but alas my search terms didn’t seem to hit the mark. Thanks for any help!
  4. Hello, I just received my Finescale Modeler magazine (March 2018), day before yesterday.. In it there is a article on making realistic sails. The author was making sails for the Revell 1/96 Connie. In it, he used the plastic sails in the kit (he pointed out, could use card stock instead).. As a... Sort of mold, sewing cloth around them.. And also using wires... Using the plastic/card stock, to make billowing sails that don't sag. The article is 4 pages long, with pictures. It also goes into attaching these... Modified sails to the yards, and attaching staysails. Having build Revell's Connie, I will say... The picts look much better then the plastic sails supplied.. Of course, that wouldn't be hard to do, lol. While I don't plan to add sails the the MS Connie I am about to start (I really like the look of standing & running rigging, w/o sails)... I want to post about this article, in case someone on here is planning on building a model with sails, it might be something they may want to check out. Jake
  5. Hi all, I'm in the middle of building the Revell Cutty Sark. Have had the kit stored for about 15 years so thought it was about time to take it out of the box. Basic hull and mast construction is complete and though the colour scheme may not be true to life, many ships changed parts of their colour scheme during their service so I make no apologies. One of the worst aspects of the model is the amount of flash and the filing that has to be done to remove excess material - very time consuming. However, it's not too much of a problem to get the parts to fit. This brings me on to sequencing and here I think the instructions could be improved. For instance, I would do as much rigging work as possible before attaching the spars to the masts. Most of the Standing Rigging is in place including the Ratlines, a lot easier to do than working your way over and under the spars. Incidentally, the ratlines are all hand knotted and the way I did them, setting them up on a frame, prevents the "hourglass" shape which some folk have mentioned. You can see this in the pictures; I've used the template supplied with the model and stretched the vertical threads using map pins to hold in place. Then again using map pins to hold it in place, I start the horizontal threads with the tension maintained. This way, you can complete the ratlines for one side of the model just by working across the template, then repeat for the second side. I'm just about to start the sails and running rigging and would appreciate advice on whether to glue the yards to the masts and then attach the sails, blocks, etc.. Or attach the sails, blocks, and so on to the yards first, and then mount the sub-assembly to the mast. I reckon it would also be sensible to work from the deck upwards rather than top downwards. Any ideas welcome guys, thanks.
  6. I've developed a method for making paneled sails from paper that works nicely to simulate the three-dimensional texture of a sail. It seems to offer a lot of visual interest, more so than a flat sail, and the procedure is pretty manageable. I like paper sails for several reasons: they hold their shape better than cloth sails (including a natural bellied curve), they have a nice texture (especially when colored by pastels), and there's no need for complicated or careful sewing. In this topic I'll walk through the method I worked out so far, starting with making the panels themselves. I haven't seen much else about paper sails on MSW, so hopefully this is of interest to some folks. I first tried paper sails on my 18th century longboat build and was quite happy with the result. In that case, I just used a flat sheet of paper and drew on the seams and stitches. It worked, but was too flat. For my current build of a US Revenue Cutter, I decided to try making sails the prototypical way, assembling them from long panels of material joined at the edges. I first asked for guidance in another sail-making thread, which produced a lot of good ideas and guidance. This guide to sail-making from the Historic Naval Ships Association was a particularly useful suggestion, as it's chock full of detailed diagrams for the arrangement of panels and the overall design of sails for different craft. Following these guides, I made a few sails and was very pleased, so I finally put in the time to document each step of the process for the foresail of my revenue cutter. Here's what these sails look like on that model: Cutting & Assembling Panels I used bond paper, which is heavier and more textured than regular printer paper. This is commonly used for printing theses; my supply came from leftovers of Mrs. Cathead's graduate thesis. Beware of watermarks in bond paper; you don't want your sail advertising a paper company when you shine a light on it! As shown above, I mark a sheet of bond paper in scale 2' strips, then cut the strips on a small paper-cutter. Using a dedicated fine brush, I run a narrow strip of basic wood glue along the edge of each strip, then lay it out on the edge of a neighbor strip. A glue stick might work too, but I've been fine using this method. Repeating this process produces a nice 3D-textured shape from which you can cut the final sail pattern. Make sure you pay attention to the direction in which you lay out the strips; I did one of my sails backward (so that the seams ran counter to the other sails) and had to start over because it looked funny. Above, you can already see how the overlapped panels create more visual interest than a plain, smooth sail. Next, I cut and attach any corner reinforcement panels. Then I cut thinner strips for the edging of the sails, and fold them in half. Then I brush glue along the inner surface of each one, and carefully fold it in place along the sail's edges. There are several ways to do this: you can brush 1/2 of the strip, glue it on, then brush on the other 1/2 and fold it over; or you can brush the whole inner surface at once. Although the former approach sounds better in theory, I've found that the moisture in the glue causes the paper to buckle, so that if you do the 1/2 approach, the strip bends out of true and is really hard to align on the sail's edge. If you glue the whole thing, it stays straight and is easier to handle. Incidentally, the same buckling-when-wet property works to your advantage in the sail overall; as the moisture dries between the panels, the sail inevitably takes on a bit of a curve, which nearly perfectly mimics the gently belly of a sail with wind in it. I also cut any reef-point strips and attach these. Once the sail is fully assembled, I color it with artist's pastels. You can use your finger or a cotton swab to gently rub on color; the paper takes up the color wonderfully, and it really brings out the texture of the bond paper. The 3D nature of the assembly helps, too, as the pastel powder naturally collects a bit along seams and highlights the structural elements of the sail. You can use a mix of colors to get just the appearance you want. One important warning: don't rub too hard, and hold the sail flat. A downside of paper vs. cloth is that paper creases; if you rub too hard or otherwise force the paper to bend or kink, you'll never get that feature out again. Some folks may want to use some kind of fixative on the color, but I've never bothered; the bond paper holds pastel really well on its own. Just be careful about handling the sail with fingers coated in pastel; you don't want to leave a dark fingerprint smudge somewhere. That's the first stage. You could stop here for a basic version, but I went ahead and added boltropes and reef points, which I'll cover in the next few posts.
  7. Good morning everyone, I am contemplating putting sails on my current project, HMS Liverpool of 1757. The model is 1:96. If I do sails, I'm going to use silk span. Somewhere on MSW, I read a method of using silk span, and printing the tabling and sail plan using an inkjet printer. I did a word search of the forums and did not find it. Frankly, I don't remember if it was a separate topic or a build log. It looked very promising. So, hopefully one or more of you have a better memory that I. Thanks for any and all help, Tom
  8. I am new to the forum and to ship building. Well sorta new. I began the Swift in 1999. Life and work conspired and the Swift went into storage after the bulkheads and main deck planking were completed. I recently dusted off the box and started again. I have the rigging left to do. I made a ton of mistakes. So far I have been alone to sort the probems out. But at this point I'm not sure about things. So I Googled them. And that lead me here to your forums and build logs. They are a Godsend of information. I've just mounted the main and fore sails to their respective masts. Next I'd like to mount the Jib on its halyard and stay (correct terminology?). I am studying the plans to understand exactly where each line goes. My plans don't have much detail. For instance I found that the flag and throat halyards have to feed through little holes drilled into the masts. NOWHERE are these holes indicated on my plans. I only found out about them by looking at pics in Gabe K.'s build log. Great log BTW!!! When I worked the hull I got my first big surprise: As I know more than one Swift builder has discovered, the bow profile you get, does not match the required stem post contour. A little wood putty? Not hardly. Way too big a gap to span safely. I used little blocks cut from a spare bass wood plank and glued them into a random mosaic pattern to build out to the needed profile. You can just see the little squares in two of the hull photos. That did the trick. My first big thrill came with planking the deck. I included 2 photos of the planking. I was inspired by "Historic Ship Models" by Wolfram zu Mondfeild and "Ship Modeling from Stem to Stern" by Milton Roth. I don't know if a Virginia Pilot ever had a deck like mine, but the books made it seem plausible, I like it, and at ths point its here to stay. Even so I would appreciate any feedback on the deck and it appropriateness. So if this is an error, I will know better next time. Next surprise was due to a big mistake I made in the bulwark planking. I did not check to see if I had enough plancking to do the bulwarks. As a consequence of using a complex planking pattern on the main deck, I ran short of planks to do the the outer bulwarks. BUMMER. I contacted AL for more. The wood was cheap. The shipping was not. I conserved the few remaining original planks to randomly intersperse with the new ones. The new blanks are much lighter and have a much tighter grain than the 16 yr old originals. Going down it looked horrible but on completon is hardly noticeable. When I had to get the replacment wood from AL, I ordered twice the wood that I needed "just in case." Good thing as the shipment got mangled during transit ruining a third or more of each plank. But the extra wood covered the loss. Note the hull pic with some bulwark planking done, you can see the the hull is waiting for new wood. BTW this has the best veiw of the mosaic used to fill in the bow. Another consequence was spare time while waiting for new wood. So I decicded to build the deck houses. I planked the houses with the narrow sepalia (mahogany like) strips. When the new wood came in I switched back to hull planking, where I finished the upper bulwarks straight way and dived into the 2nd hull planking proper. Here I made a big mistake, for the lower hull I continued to use the narrow sepalia planking that I'd started with on the deckhouses. The wide sepalia planking was the correct stuff to use. Needless to say I ran out of the narrow planks. Too far in to it to back out, I devised a jig that let me cut the wide planks into narrow ones. This allowed me to finish the hull. A comment about mistakes like this: They make you feel really stupid, but sometimes they workout. The narrow planks fit around the hulls compound curves much better than the wide planks ever could have. Plus it just looks better and probably is closer to scale. Checkout the finished hull pic. The Sapalia (mahogany look alike) really shines and is just gorgeous. Lesson: Take your victories where you can. Also note the mix between old and new Mukali (bass wood like) in the upper bulwark. Not too bad given the disaster it could have been.

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