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Found 14 results

  1. Hi, There where many times since I started building my Kingfisher that I thought I should start a build log. And today is the day. I've started the kit last november and spend a lot of time since. Not that I have made much progress, but it is not a race and its tremendous fun building. I ran in to trouble when I was making the hawse timbers, I did not like how the shape came out. It was time to have a little diversion from frame building and find the courage to make new parts from scratch for the hawse timbers. So I left the path of the instruction and started building the stove, some gratings and the gun trucks. That was a lot of fun. The gun trucks are almost finished and wait for the arrival of replacement cannons from The Lumberyard. ==================================== So that's what was left from my old build log in Google cache. Unfortunately the rest was shot into cyberspace and is now a pleasant memory of 2 years and 7 months of logging the progress of my Kingfisher. And probably the longest story I ever wrote in my whole life as I don't like writing at all. So instead of trying to get everything back I'll put a selection of the pictures I did keep on my laptop up in this post and will go on from there. Maybe I'll add text along the way but don't want to be kept from modeling to much. Most of the pictures say more than words anyhow. Update: So Dave (Midnight) saved my log previous to MSW’s move from 1.0 to 2.0. He was ever so kind to share these files with me to rebuild my buildlog. Unfortunately I’m not able to convert the PDF’s back to text to get them back into my buidlog. So instead of typing the lot over again I decided to put the PDF’s on a public share where every body who’s interested can download them from. To make live a little easier I compiled a small index so you now what to expect in each PDF. All the PDF's can be found here. I know it's a bit of a disappointment not to be able to put the information back into this log but the good news is nothing is lost. Any comments of how its working are welcome. Remco
  2. Spaceship made from whatever materials come my way. Made either from junk or bought items (such as electronics, figurines, etc). Scale is set to 1/150 by the plastic figurines to be used. The ship will have an interior view. Don't know anything else about it. Making up my own plans as I go along. Purpose? To liberate my creativity without imposed restrictions by someone else's plans. Scrap PVC drainage pipe for main hull. My first overall display plan. This may change into something else.
  3. Ok so I finished my longboat kit build from model shipways and found it was fun and challenging,so I started looking at other kits to build my second model . Then yesterday by chance I got a bunch of teakwood from a friend and thought to myself what am I going to do with this . Then I figured why not cut it up and build another longboat but this time from scratch using all teakwood. I have never done anything like this before and never worked with teakwood before . But what the heck I figure I'll give it a shot. I will build it using Model Shipway plans and instructions .
  4. Well here goes. HMS Arethusa was a type 12 Leander class frigate, laid down in Sept 1962. She was, like the rest of the Leanders, named after a figure of mythology. Arethusa was the last ship built by J.S. White & Company Shipbuilders of east Cowes, Isle Of Wight. launched on 5 November 1963 and commissioned on 24 November 1965. In 1967, Arethusa deployed to the Mediterranean. At the end of 1967 she was docked down for a repair period finishing in the spring of 1968. In the same year she took part in Portsmouth 'Navy Days'. After re dedication the ship worked up at Portland, later deploying to the Mediterranean. In 1969 Arethusa together with Juno, Hampshire and RFA Lyness visited Barbados, transited the Panama Canal and proceeded to Callao in Peru, Valparaiso, the Falkland Islands and Montevideo returning to the UK for Easter. Later in 1969 Arethusa was deployed as West Indies guard ship. Visits included Punta Del Garda, Bermuda, Washington DC, Norfolk Virginia, Key West, Anguilla, Antigua, St Lucia, Curaçao, St Kitts, Tortola, St Vincent, Carriacou, Nassau, Freeport Grand Bahama, transiting the Panama Canal again to San Diego and San Francisco; returning via the Panama Canal to Trinidad. She continued to Cartegena, Dominica, St Martin, Bequia, Georgetown, Belize, Fort Lauderdale arriving in Portsmouth in April 1970. Arethusa was guard ship for the hand-over of independence to British Guiana. In 1970, after visits to Lorient and Esbjerg, Arethusa deployed to the Far East via South Africa and her first Beira Patrol, While in the Far East she visited Penang, Singapore, Hong Kong, Nagoya, and the Philippines. On returning to Singapore she helped escort HM the Queen and HRH the Duke of Edinburgh on their South East Asian tour. In 1972, Arethusa undertook a further Beira Patrol which was designed to prevent oil reaching the landlocked country of Rhodesia via the then-Portuguese colony of Mozambique. The following year, Arethusa undertook a fishery protection patrol during the Second Cod War, and during that patrol was rammed by the Icelandic gunboat Odin. In 1973 Arethusa began her modernisation which included the removal of her one twin 4.5-in gun, with the Ikara anti-submarine warfare missile system taking its place. The modernisation was completed in April 1977. In that same year, Arethusa, like many Leanders, took part in the Royal Navy's Fleet Review in celebration of HM the Queen's Silver Jubilee. Arethusa was positioned between Cleopatra and Arrow and was part of the 3rd Frigate Squadron. In 1979, Arethusa deployed to the Far East and Pacific. In 1980 Arethusa underwent a refit that was completed the following year. She then joined Standing Naval Force Atlantic, a NATO multi-national squadron. In 1985, Arethusa was fitted with towed array sonar. On 4 April 1989, at Portsmouth, Arethusa decommissioned. She was eventually sunk as a target in 1991. I will be building the original batch 1 Arethusa on which my Dad served from new. My intention is to present this model to my Dad at the final HMS Arethusa reunion on the Isle of Wight in Oct 2015. This also marks the 50th year of her commission. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- My techniques may be alien to some, but I'm pretty much doing this off the top of my head. I usually mull things over In my sleep before having a go at it, so bear with me. So far I have the deck cut from ply and marked out in masking tape and pencil to give me a rough plan. I'm tackling the superstructure first. The lump is milled using a dremel from modelling foam to help give a more solid structure while forming the lower part. I've used 2mm thick styrene to form the sides and top, cut and heated to get the shape. I've been planning this since before Xmas and feel better now she's under way. More later.....
  5. Anyone know of any suppliers of decent larger size rigging blocks. I'm building an RC square rigger at 1/36 scale and need blocks about 7-12mm in size. They don't have to be functional, just strong and look the part in wood.
  6. Hi All, I am now two years into the US Brig Eagle using the Gene Bodnar practicum. I consider Gene to be one of the greats in the hobby today and his practicum leaves no regrets. I like to build a couple of ships in tandem so I dont get bored. Having just finished a POB Kitbashed Rattlesnake, I decided to start the HMS Naiad using Ed Tosti's Monograph (the log is posted on this site) and will continue with the US Brig Eagle. I toy with just stopping in the admiralty sytle, but since I bought a Byrnes rope walk this year, I had better use it. Otherwise I will be keel hauled by order of my Admiral... The first half of my log is on Model Ship Builder. I will share some photos below of how she sits today and moving forward, will now post on both sites. If you are interested in this build, I fully recommend it and am happy to consult for anyone who wants that. The practicum, which is FREE, takes you through lofting and plan design, all the way to the finished product. On my build, everything is from scratch, with the exception of the long guns. Some day, I will get into casting, but for now I am focusing on the hull structure. The build is based on research done by Kevin Crisma from Texa A&M University and his Doctoral disseratation is available free frmo the website. http://nautarch.tamu.edu/anth/abstracts/crisma.htm I'm going back a couple of years here... This is an example of the lofted frame. Now, I do all my frame lofting with DeltaCAD. One of the things that makes this a great first scratch build is the simple curvature of the frames. There is little tumble home and the frames are fairly thick for this lake warship. Here she sits with ceiling planks installed. I am leaving the ship in a skeletal form with only a suggestion of planking and other structural supports. The entire hull is of boxwood from D'Lumberyard. Capsized with the hull almost fully faired. Hours and hours of sanding and polishing... Fast forward to today! Next up is the bowsprit and rigging. I will go into more detail. If you want to see the full painful log in excrutiating detail, it is on MSB. More to come. Thanks, Gary
  7. hello. don't know if this belongs here but I will ask. I am just starting to scratch build mamoli royal Louis and was wondering if anyone has a build log for me to view. I know that I will run into problems and want to here from other members what they incountered with it. thank you for any help, terry
  8. Hi folks, I've decided to start a build log so I can share with folks that ask about my latest ship model. This will be HMS Surprise 100% scratch (if I can) built. It will be stained with no or very little painting. I've already made a couple of errors so I just assume that Dr. Materin has been doing some refitting after buying her out of the service. The build is single plank on bulkhead. We'll see how that goes. This is my third build after Armed Virginia Sloop and Niagara so I expect some challenges. Just bought a Byrnes table saw and thicknesser and plan to purchase a lathe soon. I spend a lot of time reviewing Dan Vadas Vulture build so many of the things I do will be copied from Dan. (Thanks Dan!) Pics to follow. Brian Like others I bought the Lavery and Hunt book on Surprise, made copies of the drawings and then enlarged them to actual size. I am using one foot = 5mm which comes out to 1/61 scale. I like working in metric and this gives me about the right size model when complete. After enlarging and making several copies I cut out the bulkheads and used them to trace onto 5ply 1/4 ply. I was struggling to figure a good deck height so I cut the bulkheads lower than the deck should be so I could add the decks later. This also gave me more flexibility to move the bulkheads to adjust for the ports. Now we'll see if I'm adding the pictures correctly.... Brian
  9. Welcome to my reconstructed build log for ESMERALDA, the existing Chilean Navy Training Ship, built at 1/640 scale in a bottle. Recent photo of Esmeralda - "The White Lady" - under sail. History of Esmeralda Esmeralda's construction started in 1946, under a different name, by Spain as the sister ship to Juan Sebastian Elcano, Spain's current school ship. Work was halted in 1947 after she was damaged in a ship yard explosion. In 1951 Chile acquired her as partial payment for Spanish debts and was launched, as Buque Escuela (school ship) Esmeralda in 1954. In the 1970's her rig was changed from a topsail schooner to a barquentine by replacing the fore gaff sail with two main stay sails. Since her commissioning, Esmeralda has been a training ship for the Chilean Navy. She has visited more than 300 ports worldwide acting as a floating embassy for Chile. She participated in Operation Sail in New York in 1964, 1976 and 1986, and the Osaka World Sail in 1983. She also participated in International Regattas of Sail in 1964, 1976, 1982 and 1990 winning the coveted Cutty Sark Trophy in the last two participations. Esmeralda is the second longest and second tallest conventional sailing ship in the world. Characteristics Length: 113 meters Beam: 13.11 meters Mast height: 48.5 meters Sails: 21 total with a sail area of 2,870 m2 on four masts Crew: 300 crewmen and 90 midshipmen Top sail speed: 17.5 knots The Model I acquired a 1.5 liter wine bottle, emptied it (which I enjoyed very much!), then cleaned and dried it. I measured the inside dimensions using a piece of paper attached to a rod, trimming the paper until it would just touch the bottle at the narrowest point. Gauge for measuring the inside of the bottle. Gauge in use. I subtracted the planned sea thickness and clearance for the masts from the minimum inside dimension. I used that amount to determine the model length based on the ship's characteristics and printed a photo to match the model length and height then taped that photo to a rod to test how the model will look inside the bottle. Photo of Esmeralda inside the bottle. A model this size will fill the bottle very well. I also cut a strip of paper to the beam of the model to verify the bottle's neck inside diameter. This is important because most necks of long neck bottles have an inside dimension that is smaller than the mouth - something I learned the hard way years ago when I assumed the mouth of a bottle was the smallest part of the neck and my ship wouldn't fit through the neck even though it cleared the mouth easily. I then generated a deck plan and waterline hull elevation and laid out the plan and elevation on a block of basswood. Deck plan and hull elevation laid out. ​I used a razor saw to make a series of cuts at about 1/16th inch (1.5 mm) intervals to the profile lines on three sides of the block. After getting the rough shape by breaking off the "fins" I sanded the hull to shape. Hull cut out ready for more detailing. Esmeralda has a partially open area between the main and mizzen masts which will be detailed with two blocks for the two structures in this "waist" (for lack of a better name) and three pieces of .5 mm ply for bulwarks and deck. I also decided to make and install the bowsprit. Tapering the bowsprit with my "mini-lathe". Waist deck houses, bulwarks, weather deck over the waist and bowsprit glued in place. Esmeralda has a low bulwark (a little less than knee height) at the bow. I made this from a piece of paper slightly lapped over the hull, glued with cya to stiffen the paper then sanded to feather it in to the hull. It was trimmed to .025 inch high (approximately 15 inches to scale). Completed low bulwark at bow. Note the two holes in the bowsprit for rigging. Esmeralda has two half rounds running from the bow, along the sides and around the stern parallel to the deck. I used a scribing gauge to slightly cut grooves into the hull which were then deepened slightly with a triangular riffle. A wire or monofilament will be glued into these grooves later then painted over to replicate the half rounds. Scribing tool. Hull with scribed grooves mounted on my work board. I started work on the masts and some of the deck details. The masts have a box hinge instead of the usual piece of wire through the base of the mast bent into a "U" with the two ends glued into holes in the deck. The box hinge will be nearly invisible whereas the bent wire would be obvious. I also made the four identical tops for the masts from .5mm ply sanded to remove one layer of ply (about .015 inch thickness). The skylights were made from basswood painted white glued to a base of .5mm ply painted green. Two hatches were made from the plywood and painted green. Mast with box hinge and four tops. Drill is a #73 Skylights and hatches. I finished the rigging plan I'd been working on since making the decision to build Esmeralda. Rigging plan for the Esmeralda model. Blue and green lines represent the standing and running rigging that will be completed outside the bottle and aren't used for moving the masts and spars into position inside the bottle. Red and magenta represent the standing and running rigging that will be set up but not glued in place outside the bottle and are used for locating the masts and spars inside the bottle then glued and trimmed. I laid out the holes for the masts and rigging and started drilling them. Drilling holes at the edge of the weather deck for shrouds and back stays with a #80 (.35mm) drill. The holes at the edge of the deck need to be drilled at an angle so they don't come out the side of the hull. I had one hole out near the end of the fan tail that needed to be over 45 degrees from vertical. I didn't quite have the angle right and the hole came out the side of the hull but it was easily repaired, but redrilling the hole from the same starting hole was somewhat difficult. I also had to change to a larger diameter drill because the smaller drill wasn't long enough to drill all the way through to the bottom of the hull. Close-up of holes for fore mast shrouds and back stays. Holes for main mast shrouds and back stay are visible next to the bulwark in the "waist" at upper right. Work in general had progressed to the point that I felt getting the sea in the bottle was necessary. I used Fimo Classic modeling clay (a polymer based compound - Sculpey, Pendo and Plasticine are possible substitutes - but Fimo has a navy blue that comes very close to the color of deep water ocean). I formed it into a piece 7 inches by 2 inches by about 1/4 inch thick tapering to zero around the edges to fit into the cylidrical bottle and leave the top surface of the sea roughly level. I then put the hull on top of the clay in the position needed then pressed it firmly into the clay with a steel rod. Hull pressed into the sea to leave an impression. The steel rod is 3/16 inch diameter with the end ground, filed and sanded to a hemispherical tip then bent as needed. The gouge is a similar sized dowel with a slot cut in the end to hold a strip of aluminum soda can then wired tight. After determining the needed angle of the gouge by trial it was glued. After the hull was removed I used the gouge to remove some of the clay from inside the impression of the hull. I used the removed clay to build up a wind swell running from near the near left corner to near the far right corner (replicating the sea with a wind from about 60 to 70 degrees off the starboard bow). Using the gouge to remove clay from the hull impression. I put the hull back in the sea, pressed it down, removed it and gouged out more clay until the hull fit snugly in the depression. After that was done I used the rounded tip of the steel rod to cover the surface of the sea with little overlapping dimples except for the ship's wake which was smoothed with the tip. Sculpting the surface of the sea. I made one more check of the hull in the depression for it in the sea then added some white Fimo to simulate the agitated white water at the bow, along the sides, in the wake and for a few wind blown white caps. I placed flecks of the white (or a partial mix of blue and white) on the tip of the steel rod to transfer them to the sea then feathered them into the blue. Finished sea. I completed basic mast assembly - lower masts with hinges, tops and upper masts - and set them into the appropriate holes in the hull. Esmeralda in progress on the working board with some of the tools being used. Then I rigged her with one pair of back stays on the fore and spanker masts, a single fore stay and the mast to mast stay that connects all four masts at the mast splices. This was done in order to do a trial fit of the hull and masts to verify that the completed assembly will fit in the sea with clearance for the masts to stand erect. I calculated my dimensions very closely with about 1/16th inch clearance between the mast tips and the inside of the bottle. Esmeralda with minimal rigging. The rigging is tied off but not glued. It will be removed after the trial fit. On a previous build I neglected to do a trial fit on a ship that I had also calculated very closely. I got that ship in the bottle and in place in the sea. I had pulled up the fore mast and positioned all the fore mast yards and had glued most of the fore stays and working lines to achieve this, then moved on to the main mast. The mast tip hit the inside of the bottle before it was in its correct position. I had to cut all the glued lines to get the fore mast to fold back down so I could remove the model. Even at that two fore mast yards snapped because I could not get them arranged the way they were when I put the ship in the bottle. I NEVER omit a trial fit after that experience no matter how confident I am with my calculations. Esmeralda going into the bottle. Esmeralda in place in the sea with masts all erect. There is about 1/16th inch clearance between the mast tips and the bottle. This trial fit also gives me a chance to trouble shoot the insertion process. In this build the deep dimple in the base of the bottle prevents me from simply setting the model in place then erecting the masts. I'll have to start erecting the masts when the bowsprit is still partly in the neck of the bottle. Another good reason to do a trial fit with bare poles and minimal rigging. Now that I know my masts are all correct it's time to detail them. I made some ring bolts out of 32 gauge (.008 inch) wire by bending the wire around the tip of a needle, forming the two ends next to each other then cutting the ring bolt from the length of wire. I had so much fun doing them I made 25 of them before I realized I only needed 12. Ring bolts. I made the fore mast yards, drilled the holes needed in all the masts and yards then painted them. I decided that I could make use of the extra ring bolts by linking two of them together, eye to eye, to use to connect the yards to the fore mast. I glued one ring bolt in a hole in the center of the yard then glued the other linked ring bolt in a hole in the mast. After that I rigged the topmast shrouds, three pairs on the fore mast, two pairs on the other three topmasts. Rigging the fore topmast shrouds. Note the linked ring bolts connecting the yards to the mast. I also added an extra ring bolt to the forward edge of the top on the fore mast to use to tie off the two fore stays that start there. After rigging the topmast shrouds I glued a crossbar of thread to the shrouds about 1 mm above the top. I painted the threads from the crossbar to the top white to simulate the turnbuckles used on Esmeralda instead of deadeyes and lanyards. The futtocks were painted to match the masts. Masts with completed shrouds. I then rigged the fore mast yards with one thread through each yard end, through the mast then through the other end of each yard. The two ends terminate with a thread block - in this case a bowline tied around the point of a needle then glued - to simulate a block used in the actual rigging of Esmeralda. The only place where the thread is glued is at the course (lowest) yard which allows the yards to turn so they are nearly parallel to the mast so the assembly (with sails in place) will pass through the bottle's neck. Foremast with some of the running rigging. Note that the linked ring bolts merely locate each yard. I worked on the hull as well by gluing 28 gauge wire in the previously cut grooves in the hull, installing four ring bolts on each side of the bow and rigging the bowsprit stays. Then I gave the hull the final coat of white and glued the deck details that were ready in place. Some of the deck details installed. I then painted the figure head - an Andean Condor. Close-up of figure head and bowsprit stays. This brings us up to date on my progress reports on Esmeralda prior to the MSW shut down for the software change. In that time work continued on deck details. Davits for three of six ship's boats, crane for the zodiac, the bridge, two catwalks, four winches and the anchor windlass and associated details in place. Close-up of midship section. Davits were made from 28 gauge wire bent to shape and glued in holes in the deck. Crane made from three pieces of wood and styrene. Bridge made from a .5 mm ply base and roof, wood between, with 32 gauge wire legs at the wings. Catwalks from .5 mm ply with eight 32 gauge wire legs glued into holes in the ply and deck. Winches made from two pieces of wood on a ply base. Close-up of windlass, bits and hawser hole covers. The anchor windlass was fabricated from eleven pieces of .010 and .020 inch styrene and three pieces of wood on a base made from paper stiffened with cya glue. The windlass isn't glued down yet. That will be done inside the bottle to cover a hole through which six lines pass after they are glued and cut. You may have noticed two threads coming from under the green covers. They will be used to pull the two chain ends into place during the windlass positioning. The chain is copper, 42 links per inch, blackened with the product from Model Expo. I know it's a bit over size (by about 50%) but I could not resist putting it in. With davits on deck I need to make some boats: two longboats, two smaller boats similar to old whaling boats (pointed bow and stern, narrow beam), a zodiac and another power boat similar to a modern Boston whaler. I haven't seen this boat in any of the photos of Esmeralda I've found, I may just have to make my best guess and wing it. I can infer the length from the davits and the beam and length from Esmeralda's deck plan which shows the outline of this boat on deck but nothing more. I started with the longboats. I made a plug from basswood, dipped it in warm paraffin wax (so glue wouldn't stick to it) and wiped away the excess wax. After attaching it to the tip of an Xacto knife I covered the plug with narrow (less than 1 mm) strips of wet newsprint laid lengthwise, edge to edge, like planks. I painted a layer of thinned wood glue over that layer then added a layer of wider strips laid across the plug, again edge to edge with another coat of thinned glue over it. After the glue thoroughly dried I lightly sanded the outside of the paper hull then trimmed the overhang flush to the plug. It popped right off the plug at that point. The second longboat hull is drying now. Longboat plug and hull. Now that I'm all up to date I'll end this report. I welcome any comments and questions. Edited title of topic to reflect a change to my display name.
  10. I have build this sparrow and am almost finished but did not want to post before I am know it works. Wood working is no problem for me but the small scale and never build a boat before. The down load from the net and printing of the booklet no problem. Timber big problem was the timber always on back order never in stock, you get that here down under in NZ. In the end i settled for 0.8 mm in stead of 1.2 mm for the planking a bit more fragile. The manual and layout of the boat called 2 cents, because I put 2 cents under the mast.( picture later) The start was easy. I leave this for now to see how it looks like in the forum.
  11. It has come to pass that I am to join the august company of the scratch builders on this forum. I stand in amazement of the skill and craftsmanship here. Humbly I begin my maiden scratch building adventure. Please give me truthful feedback on this adventure, I hope to improve my skills along the way. This build is associated with the group build project of the Ship Model Society of New Jersey. I have been keeping my eye on this project since I joined MSW, and I am very excited to participate. First, let us see the beautiful timbering package from Hobby Mill: Now on to the build! The first attempt on the keel ended in disaster. This was owing to the fact that all of my workshop is packed up in boxes in up to three different locations at the moment, as I am in the middle of a move. So I tried to start with as few tools as possible, a chisel, a hand saw and some files. Unfortunately, the very first half lap joint ended in asymmetrical folly. Luckily, the supplied wood provided almost three opportunities to create modern art from boxwood. Rather than waste anymore of the precious stuff to cabin fever induced exuberance, I decided to hunt for my milling setup. Once that was found, so also was symmetry in the lap joint. Once the pieces were finished to a near Palladian symmetry, I used three layers of black tissue paper to simulate the tarred flannel. After the glue dried, I placed the two keel pieces, glued together in a vice to set. After removal from the vice, I trimmed the excess "flannel" with a new #11 blade. Hopefully, I will be able to add another post tomorrow. Best Regards,
  12. This ship caught my attention the first time I saw the plans because it had a white flag. Laughed a bit until I researched it. But then the lines caught my eye. She's a 32 gun, frigate of the 8 pound gun class. A bit of history... built 1755 in Brest. Not too much in the way of history available except for some highlights: 1756 - Carried troops to Quebec. 1757 - with Marsaint's divsion on the 21 Oct. A "most bloody conflict" with the British off Santo Domingo. No ships lost on either side, but a high casualty count. 1762 - expeditions against British shipping and the Sale pirates. 1778 - she was part of a small fleet in company with Le Belle Poule, Hirondelle and Le Coureur. They ran into Keppel's squadron. Licorne as surrounded and captured. La Belle Poule had a famous two-hour duel with the British and escaped to a nearby bay.For the next five years it was known as HMS Licorne in the British Navy. 1783 - Sold out of the service. From the plans, it appears to be a good beginner scratchbuild. Clean lines, minimal carving. Some things from the Hahn plans needs changing such as the mast caps and the cannon rigging. I'm still researching via Boudriot and Frolich. I'm planning on completely planking her, but that may change. Anyway, I ordered a bunch of Hahn's plans a few years ago out of curiousity... guess I was walking down the primrose path to the minefield and here's where I've landed. Not knowing what to order in the way of wood.. I guessed and ordered the wood for the Confederacy from The Lumberyard since both are 3/16" scale. Blew it a bit.. keel on the Confed is 1/4", on the Licorne... 3/16", same for the frames.. Luckily, I have a thickness sander... unluckily.. that's a rather large pile of wood. But, I'm happy. I'll make the frames a tad thicker and order some 3/16" sheet for the keel, etc. Next time.. I'll study the plans closer. So... here's where my build begins. Started by scanning and copying all the plans as blueline prints fade with time. Laid out but not cut the building board. I've enclose pic of what I've built to date: Pics of the Famous Ed Measuring Tool and my frame jig. Pic of some of the framing wood with my thickness sander (daunting in person). And lastly.. a work in progress... my shipwright. Currently looks like Krylon the Cylon, but he'll get better. Once he's finished, I'll properly name him and start building frames. Due to the website crash, all the descriptive stuff is gone. I'll post all the pics to-date and then start text, etc. on my next post.
  13. I'm planing for the future to build a sloop in scale 1:48, and for armament I will have 10 6-pound cannons, unless convinced otherwise It's probably going to be 18-1850. I would like to scratch-build the ship, and of course also the cannons. I have done some research, but have not been able to find the measurements of a 6-pound naval cannon, and part of this is probably because I don't know enough on the subject. So the question is, what are the measurements of a 6-pound naval cannon around 1800? For those who can read this, here is what I came up with, but I had to use very doubtful sources, and some guessing. The left side numbers are lengths, and right side width (spelled that one wrong) The gun should be 1,65 meters long real life. Thank you for your time Edit, added 4-pound to title

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