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Hello - Thought I'd do a smaller kit so hopefully it will not take quite so long. The first steps done with the bulkheads. Next the balsa filler bits bow and stern plus a bit of support for the mast. The ply decking sheet dry fitted so as to lay the central planking with access to trim around hatches etc. It's good to see there are currently other Sherbourne builds going on at the moment so I'll be able to learn what to do. Thanks for looking in. Regards Doug
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Hi all so I thought I start a build log for my Sherbourne kit I did attempt about 15 years ago a model of HMS Victory a subscription one but I was young and was way out of my depth so give it up I decided to go with a modest boat this time after a bit of research I picked this model as a good start. Any advice or tips would be appreciated hopefully I can make a good job of it like all the logs I’ve looked out in here already to do with the model liam
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Hey fellow Builders! I've been lurking on this site for almost a year now and I feel it's time to reveal my work... or pile of poorly painted bent sticks. I would like to give my thanks for all the other Sherbourne builders on this site as it has been immensely helpful to see your builds! I started building this lovely little kit last August and have been working on it slowly over the last 9 months. It would totally be done if I wasn't working so much, I'm a line cook so I get home and most of the time collapse into bed. Anyway I bought this kit after doing some research, it came highly rated for beginners. I still couldn't have made it without the resources on this site or the books I bought. Most kits are just assuming you know what you are doing it seems. The kit was missing the maple wood for the deck so I contacted JoTika/Caldercraft and they mailed some out to me for free! The build is at the rigging stage... I've been a little stuck there and will probably ask for help. I'll just post these two un-boxing pictures for now and add the rest later in chunks.
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As the master studies finally reach an end (have to bring in the thesis next week) and I will have more time for the numerous hobbies, I have taken up the work on the cutter Sherbourne again, which I bought 3 years ago as a reward for the finished bachelor studies. Now, after three years of ripening I started the kit. It is my first wooden model, and I thought Sherbourne might be a good start, as it is not too expensive. As I forgot to take some pictures of the earliest building steps, I will just show you the current progress. During the first planking of the hull, I built some of the equipment (anchor, gun carriages and the gratings), but I have to admit, that I don't really like those gun carriages. It will possibly happen, that I do them all over again from scratch, as soon as I made a little CAD-drawing. The sanded hull. There are some errors in the 1st planking, but I hope the 2nd planking + whitening the underwater hull will hide them sufficiently. A lot of glue marks on the stern... Will be hidden under red colour I hope. Some pre assembled equipment. As already mentioned, I dont like the gun carriages. Regarding the anchor, I decided to fair the stock on the ends, as found in "Historische Schiffsmodelle" by Mondfeld. So far. As this is a weekend project, I hope I can provide you with more photos of new progress every week. I am looking forward for tips, maybe some encouraging words for a newbie in wood. Most of my modelling experience is strongly limited to plastic/resin kits. -
Hello all Now is the time to start my second build log since I have finished the Americas Cup Endeavour. I am more interested in warships of the age of sails so it feels natural to build Sherbourne as a second kit. The ship is not so big but still has all features of a period ship. The main purpose of this build is to learn as many skills as possible so I can not tell how the finished model will look like. I will scratch and replace many parts in the kit just to learn how to do it. The model will be of darker but better walnut than supplied in the kit. I bought it in a local hobby shop here in Helsingborg and I think it is Amati's replacement wood. As sources for the build I will use AOTS Alert, Rigging period for and after craft and other books that I find fits. I will also pick ideas from Chucks cutter Cheerful and of course from the very nice Sherbournes by Gregor, Dirk, Tony and Kester. I hope you don't mind I follow some of your ideas . Ps, Some of the pictures are to small. You will see the full photos if you click (open) on them.
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This is my first ever build of a wooden ship and Ihave taken my time before starting it.I have bought three books on the subject and found the last book which I bought 'Period ship kit builder's manual ' by Keith Julier to be the most informative and easiest to follow.I've read quite a bit of these books before I started my build with a great deal of apprehension.I don't want to make a mistake that cant be rectified so have also read the log's from other builds to see which way is the best to approach it and can hopefully learn from their 'mistakes' / learning curve. Checking off the parts against the list at first looked baffling but Caldercraft do a good job of numbering and naming parts. First dry fit of bulkheads with false keel and false decking to make sure everything is lining up. There There was a small dinge in the last bulkhead that had to be filled. False deck on and glued down Deck now held firmly in place and although not much to look at for experienced builders I'm chuffed with it so far. Now for filling the front and back bulkheads,this is the first one I've done and you can see the other side filled but not yet shaped. Hope I haven't made some glaringly obvious mistake so far,fingers crossed. Still not sure how to proceed when it comes to planking,for now I've left the keel and posts off as per other builds to make it easier but should I add the keel after first planking ,second planking and should I even rabbet for the planks.Seems there are different approaches to the planking conundrum. Thanks for looking all constructive criticisms welcome.
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To get a bit of an order here, and to overcome the 10 image limit, I redid the posts here All the older buildpics can be seen here: https://www.indee.de/gallery#14704013639500 Edit: I could restore a bit via Google Cache, I will edit here the next days: After a three year building break due to some private issues and high workload, I decided to start a small kit out-of-box just to build a bit and have fun ... haha .. not possible, I mean the out-of-box. Because of that and the long break I simply forgot some of my own rules for building: Measuring and Preparation all the time Now as it turned out not to be a "simple" build There are some, visible flaws, I have to live with (unfortunatley I am sure u will get what I mean ;-)). I also forgot lots of the english words for building a wooden build ship, sorry for that, and "help" is always appreciated. Anyway, as the build is allready in progress I will start with a little Photo-Story and some short comments, and will try to update the build regulary: Glueing the main wale made with ebony: Building the Gratings: Building the "don't know the word" Researching the Decklayout based on the original plan: The final Layout: Cheers, Dirk
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Hello all, after reading several build logs here I thought why not, so here is mine. This is the first time I've built a wooden kit so this will be a bit hit and miss so please bear with me. So far I've just dry placed bulkheads and bevelled bow and stern ones. -
In order for me to understand better the rigging practices for cutters of the 18th Century, I wrote to the National Maritime Museum asking if I could see some of the cutter models they have in storage, now that they no longer have a model display at the Museum in Greenwich. Nick Ball, the Assistant Curator of Ship Models, wrote back very quickly saying that I would be welcome to visit and could see all of the models I had requested which are now stored at the Royal Historic Dockyard in Chatham -- except for one which was stored in another location less accessible to the occasional visitor. He, together with Dave Lindridge the Store Manager, gave me a very generous amount of time to look at and photograph the models that they had taken out for inspection – during which they provided a lively discussion about their jobs and the models they were showing. In fact Nick said he was pleased to show visitors the models because it gave him more of an opportunity to review models in their vast collection. I asked Nick about permission to post my pictures and he told me it was fine as long as I made it clear the pictures were from the NMM collection. He also asked to be provided to the links of the photos as he himself (as a trained naval archaeologist) was very keen on the details and would enjoy any discussion that ensued. I will post the photos of the individual models under different messages, this post deals only with the first of the models. I just need to add that I am enormously grateful to Nick and Dave for their patience and generosity with their time for this visit, which for me was invaluable. 1763 cutter NMM ID SLR0510 First off is their cutter referenced in the NMM as Object ID SLR0510. It is described there as “a full hull model of a cutter (circa 1763) Scale: 1:48. The vessel measures 53 feet on the main deck by 20 feet in the beam and is armed with twelve 3-pounders. The model was donated unfinished and was completed in the Museum in 1960”. For me there were four main points of interest, apart from the fact that it is dated the same year as my Sherbourne. The first is that the fore belaying pins are arranged fore-aft beside the bowsprit. Gregor, Dirk, Kester and I have been trying to figure out how the belaying pins would be set given that the kit of the Sherbourne provides no plans for such a belaying rack. Each of us have provided our own particular possibility – with Dirk going for an arrangement such as that on the AOTS book of the Alert, and Gregor going for a rack right on the stem. I had made a rack that was parallel to the windlass. However, now I have seen the arrangement on the NMM cutter SLR0510, and, as you will see, the 12-gun cutter I saw had the same arrangement, I have changed my own rack accordingly. The second is that the topmast is fore of the main mast. I had understood that earlier in the century the practice was to place the topmast aft of the main mast. In fact the cutter Hawke (which I also saw at Chatham and whose pictures follow in a subsequent post) was the only one of these models to place the topmast aft of the main mast. The third point of interest was the windlass. The original NMM plans for the Sherbourne showed this type of windlass, and Gregor has already made one in the same style, and I followed his example – rather than following the type of windlass provided for in the Sherbourne kit. The fourth point of interest is that, like the Trial that you'll see in a subsequent post, the lower hull is painted up to the wales, and not to a waterline. The following were the other pictures I took of the1763 cutter, all of which will have details which will be picked up by those more knowledgeable than I am! Tony
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As usual, once I arrive at the point of making a particular part, I find the details confusing. This time it's about the mast tackles. The Sherbourne kit that I have doesn't illustrate or mention mast tackles or Burton pendants. Similarly, the 1763 cutter model I photographed in the Royal Dockyard doesn't have any. On the other hand, one of the cutter models (1790) I photographed does show a similar tackle hooked to the base of the mast as follows: Furthermore, Petersson in his book 'Rigging Period Fore and Aft Craft' shows what he calls a Burton pendant and tackle as follows (though I have added text to point out the difficulty I have with his diagram): This made me think it might be a good thing to set up mast tackles. However, the moment I started looking at this, I thought that the diagram didn't make mechanical sense. It shows the runner going through what looks like a hook without a block -- which would mean it would have to run through a thimble. When I looked up Marquardt's book on Eighteenth Century Rigs & Rigging, he shows the following arrangement: This is very similar to that shown by zu Mondfeld and is clearly more sound (to my mind) in terms of mechanics. Marquardt also supplies the following information about cutter rigging (following Steel) -- the last two paragraphs of which I am at a loss to understand: "The mast tackle pendants were wormed, parcelled and served over their whole length. Each was doubled, and the bight was seized to create an eye which fitted over the masthead. The ends were then spliced together, and a single block was seized in the lower bight. The ends of all splices were tapered, marled down and served over with spun-yarn. The tackle runners had a hook and thimble spliced into one end and were served over. They rove through the pendant blocks and were spliced round the strops of long tackle blocks. The tackle fall was bend to a becket at the lower end of a long stropped single block, with the ends seized. The long strops, with hooks and thimbles spliced in, were hooked to eyebolts in the sides." Here, I don't understand the terms 'served over' and 'long tackle blocks'. I also don't understand which 'long stropped single block' is being referred to as having the becket for the tackle fall. As a result I don't really know whether it's right to put mast tackles on, and, if I do, whether to try to mimic Petersson's diagram, or whether to go for the kind of picture Marquardt shows. Any advice, comment or other will be, as usual, very welcome! Tony
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Hi all. I have just completed my first wooden ship build and, as luck would have it, my second project arrived in the post today. I am hoping for an improvement on my first attempt and, providing l learn from my experience, l am sure l will manage it. I have opened the box, identified the parts and dry fitted the bulkheads. The wood looks in good order as, indeed, was the first project. This build will, l expect, take rather longer than my first as l won't be able to put in the same number of hours per day as l managed on build one. We are taking the Grandchildren on holiday Friday so won't be able to start in ernest untill we return. Best wishes as always. The Lazy Saint. -
Greetings! I have been hesitant whether to start a build log or not as I don’t want to jinx it. What if I never finish, then I will stand in shame in public instead of just hiding the object of shame on a shelf to be forgotten. Anyway here I am and I hope to make it to the end. This is my first build in 30 years so excuse my lack of skill and technique. 😉 I will try to recapitulate what I have done so far: After a lot of pondering what and where to buy I finally ordered the kit from Cornwall model boats in the UK. It arrived a week later together with some tools, paints and glue. While waiting for the kit to arrive I read all Sherbourne build logs I could find to be prepared. Upon unboxing the first thing I noticed was that the plans where big – much bigger than I have room for. Thus I decided to scan the plans and rearrange the layout so they fit on a A3 paper. Not many problems fitting the bulkheads but I had and issue were the #4 and #5 bulkhead exceeded the false keel so I had to sand them down so they are flush with the false keel. Member AH1973 had similar issue in his build: I decided to add filler blocks in bow and stern as advised by other builders. In the picture you see I had to add some more to adjust the shape of the bow. Here you see the false deck being glued. I think I was a bit over enthusiastic bevelling the stern bulkhead. Before I fitted the bulwarks I assembled a gun to test that the gun ports where in correct position. Fitting of the bulwarks. As Stockholm Tar https://modelshipworld.com/profile/427-stockholm-tar/ suggested, I cut half the way though all the frames at deck level to make it easier to remove them at a later stage. I decided to fit the keel parts after first planking. First planking Here comes a trickier part, shaping and bending planks so they sit nice, one next to the other. I was not so successful in tapering the planks correctly, hence the ugly bow. For the second planking I must be more careful. I experimented with stealers in the stern. At first I tried using the brass pins that comes with the kit which didn’t work at all for me. They bent very easily and did not sit tight. Instead I use reconfigured paperclips where possible and rubber bands and pins in the ends. For the big paperclips I used popsicle sticks. (notice the USSR steel ruler with price etched in to it in the front ) When the paperclips where to big I used rubber bands and blocks of balsa to concentrate the pressure. Need is the mother of invention. Clamping down a thin plank in the bow where ordinary clamps just slipped. I also bought some super strong magnets that I used in the end. Here I use wedges to ensure the planks where flush with each other. How to fit that last plank in a better manner? First layer finished and the port(?) side rough sanded. As you can see – not a pretty planking. Looks more like clinker to me. Dry fitting of the stem and keel. At this point I discovered that the keel was a couple of millimetres to short in the stern, in the juncture with the stern post. The reason I discovered, is that the notch in the false deck is smaller than the thickness of the stem. I cut recesses in the stem so it fitted better and voilà, the keel and stern post fitted! As advised by others, I drilled the holes in the stem at this point. I drilled from both sides to avoid splinter. For measuring I used a precision compass (Rotring). I cut a bearding line in the stem so far. Next will be gluing the keel and stem and then fit the stern counter. //Mikael
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I thought you might like to see a few more pictures of the (slow) progress on my Sherbourne. The pictures were actually taken about a month ago, and my wife and I are now at our cottage, so work won't resume on her until the autumn. I've now finished the shrouds apart from the ratlines, which I'm leaving off for access until later, and have in place some of the running rigging, including the burtons, top rope, boom topping lift, and throat and peak halliards for the mainsail. The latter is bent to the gaff and brailed into the mast:
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Hi all I started making the Sherbourne about 4 years ago and wasn't particularly impressed by the swivel guns that came with the kit so ordered some Caldercraft brass ones which appeared to be about the right dimensions as those in the kit. In the last few months I've restarted the model (I'm sure like a lot of other modellers, real life sometimes takes over!) Anyway when I came to construct the swivel guns, I realised that I had only ordered 6 instead of 8. Fortunately I'd kept the original packaging and ordered an extra 2 from my normal supplier. Unfortunately when they arrived they were considerably smaller. When I queried this I was told that Caldercraft had changed the guns following further research to make them more accurate. Whilst striving for accuracy is always welcome, the brackets and handles which come with the kit I bought 4 years ago, whilst not entirely accurate anyway, are now way out of proportion to new sized guns. This leaves me with a dilemma but before I set about the task of making the kit swivel guns look consistent with the brass ones I'm wondering whether anyone has, or knows where I can source two of the original sized swivel guns. The original guns are 17mm long: Caldercraft Part no: 85005A 0.5lb Swivel Guns 1:64 C1790 I've attached an image to illustrate my point. Extremely grateful if anyone can help me. -
I have just listed my copy of George Bandurek's book "Super-Detailing the Cutter Sherbourne" on eBay in the UK. It's as 'Buy it Now or Best Offer'. If anyone is interested the link is http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-/112326241142? I'll let it run on 30-day cycles until it's sold. Tony -
Well, I'm a little late starting this building log, but it's been an interesting model to build, so I thought I'd share my experiences. Hope it's helpful, anyway. I'm hoping this will be an opportunity to try out some new skills and improve my planking skills before attempting something a bit larger! First off, a quick look at the kit itself. It comes in a small, but really nice and sturdy box, with everything packed in very neatly. The instructions are much more simple than the instructions for Pickle (a more recent kit, I believe), and reading them through I was glad I'd built Pickle first. Nevertheless, having build Pickle, these are perfectly adequate. The plans are excellent, and give lots of detail, including step by step illustrations for the construction of the hull. Looking closely you'll see the the walnut ply used for the cannon carriages and capping rails has been cut out right to the edge... on the other side this has led to a slight split going through the capping rail itself, but nothing too major, and it should be simple enough to put right (I'll mount it good side up!) So far I've found that all the materials are provided with plenty to spare, just as with Pickle. [edited to restore photos, 11, 13 July 2017] -
Super detailing the cutter Sherbourne, a guide to building the Caldercraft kit, by George Bandurek. I published this book in 2011 and at the time there were several threads that showed photos of my build. These are not now easily accessible so I have resurrected some of the information. The attached pdf files are extracts from the book that show how I tackled some of the topics. I would welcome any comments on these extracts, or if you have bought a copy of the book (thank you!) then please post a review. More information on the book is available on my website www.grbsolutions.co.uk. Buy direct and you will get a signed copy! George Bandurek Shrouds.pdf Sails MB.pdf Cannon.pdf Anchors.pdf -
The following is the reconstruction of my build logs for the Sherbourne following temporary loss of the Model Ship World Site in February 2013. First posted May 6th 2012. === It started with a birthday present in January of £200 from my daughter. What could I possibly want that would have some meaning over the year? I suddenly remembered that as a younger chap I had really enjoyed rigging plastic model ships, and had had a long-time yearning to work with wood. So on to the web, find out about ship models. Amazon for books, found 'The New Period Ship Handbook' by Keith Julier. It didn't give much (any) detail, but I thought maybe the Lady Nelson would be good. So researched that. Found this forum. Many days reading the variety of experience. Asked questions, thought about the Chatham as well, tried to get it but it was out of stock, so bought the Sherbourne Kit. My plan was not to go for the perfection of the other builds, but to get a basic understanding of the whole process, as I knew I would be making some frightful mistakes, and likely to be a bit messy as well. How right I was! Read all the planking advice on the Database, how to make filler blocks etc, then plunged in. Bought the kit, checked all the parts, stuck the tiddly little ones into the bags in the photo, put the frame together. Thought I'd be a clever little so-and-so and follow Danny's suggestion of inserting nuts in the hull to take pedestals at some future date. Even lined the bolts up with the bulkheads and epoxied the nuts in -- ensuring no glue was caught in the threads. All well and good ... so far.
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Hi All, This is my thrid kit build on MSW, and I'm taking on the HM Cutter Sherbourne from Jokita/Caldercraft. This will be my second "proper kit buid" on here as I started the Mantura/Sergal HMS President kit, and gave up on it due to the lack of decent intsructions and plans included in with the kit. My darling girlfriend (known as the Admiral) exceeded all expectations and bought me this kit for our anniversary in March. As you can all imagine, I was very very happy with this, and ended up maxing out the credit card on designer handbag(s) for her! So why start now?! In the last month or so, I have finished my build of HM Mortar Vessel Convulsion from Caldercraft, and was planning on joining a few other members on here to start a goup build of Sherbourne, but the Tennancy on my flat is up at the begining of August, so I was feeling a bit dubious about transporting the kit if we (the Admiral) decided we should move on to another property. Fingers crossed that won't be the case, but this is almost a preemptive strike to ensure the model is as safe as possible IF we do decide to move. Fingers crossed that we don't - I like our little flat! If you're interested in my Convulsion build, then click the link below. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8593-hm-mortor-vessel-convulsion-by-jonnyamy-caldercraft/page-1 So a kit bash? Because this is a special kit for me, I'd decided to make it is a little different! The main differences in the build from the kit will be: Replace Walnut planking layer with Basswood Replace Wales with Ebony Strips (if available) Treenailing of outer hull planking (to water line) Treenailing the Deck & Edge Planks Addition of Fife Rail around the Mast Rigging of sails (including all running rigging) Addition of Ships Boat Crew Figures (5 sailors max. 3 officers max.) Possible rebuild of the windless Replace White Metal cannon stock with Brass (white metal castings are terrible). So I'm about to buy the Basswood from Hobbycarft here in the UK, as they seem to be the cheapest source of Basswood strips I could find online. I will be using the book "Super - Detailing the Cutter Sherbourne: a guide to building the Caldercraft kit" by George Bandurek as my guide for the Kit Bash. I hope you all enjoy my journey in to the unkown of Kit Bashing, and tag along if you fancy it! Cheers Jonny -
After the tremendous help I received regarding the nature of the horse for the foresail, I find I have a further quandary. How to attach the foresail to the rail. I find the description given by Steel to be very confusing. He says: "Sheets reeve through a block made fast to the horse with a thimble, or, in some sloops, a dead-eye iron bound, and through a block at the clue, and so on, alternately, between the strap of the block and the seizing or dead-eye; then through the thimble at the clue, till the whole sheet is expended; then frapped together and hitched." I really cannot envisage this. It seems to say that the sheet is bound to the clue, then directly to a block at the horse, then to a block also attached to the clue, then to the seizing or dead-eye, then to the strap of the block at the clue then (after going back and forth 'between the strap of the block and the seizing or dead-eye') through the thimble at the clue and, when the rope is spent, frapped and hitched to the layers of rope so formed. I can't find a picture showing this, apart from a very indistinct picture from Cole's build of the Alert. I'd therefore be very grateful if someone could explain how the foresail is attached to the horse rail in this manner, especially if they could provide a drawing, illustration or picture. Just in case people reply after tomorrow afternoon, I'll be on a three-week trip starting mid-day Thursday 10th, and so may be unable to reply until I can find suitable wi-fi connections wherever I'll be staying. Thanks in advance Tony
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Topsail yard tie rig on 1763 cutter (Sherbourne)
tkay11 posted a topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Another question while I try to figure out the rigging for my yards. I'm trying to figure out how to rig the topsail yard tie. Steel says the following: "Tie reeves from aft, through the sheave hole in the mast-head, comes down, and clinches round the slings of the yard: the other end has a double block spliced, that connects by its fall to a single block hooked in the channel; the fall leads through a leading block on the gunwale, and belays to a cleat or timber-head." I'm ok as far as the single block hooked in the channel, but I can't work out the subsequent route of the fall. Thus I see it as: So could someone help me as to how the fall would go to the timberhead? The way I see it is that if it does go through another block on the gunwale, there would be no mechanical advantage at all. Of course I may be missing something obvious, so that's why I'm asking the professionals! Thanks Tony -
I want to place a horse rail for the sheet of the foresail on the Sherbourne (English Revenue Cutter 1763). I have seen pictures of rails that run right across the deck along the top of the bulwarks, but it seems from a look at Steel's and Marquardt's books that the horse would lie quite close to the deck just in front of the mast. Unfortunately none of the models of cutters I have seen in the museums have such a horse, even though all the sources refer to one. Goodwin's AOTS book on the Alert doesn't show one either, although there is a tantalising reference in one drawing of the rigging which shows the sheet tackle disappearing from sight on to the deck with the caption 'secured to horse'. In fact the only one I recall seeing on a model is Kester's (Stockholm Tar) build of the Sherbourne. There he placed the rail across the fore gratings but I recall he was uncertain himself at the time of how exactly he should place it. My question is how wide across the deck should the horse rail go? My initial thought was to make it the same width as the one for the mainsail at the taffrail, but when I placed it on the deck it looked a little short at just under 4 ft (45 inches) full size on a deck whose width is nearly 19 ft. The other thing, of course is the height. I've thought 15 inches would be ok, but again am more than willing to hear from the experts. Any advice or wisdom will be gratefully received as usual. Tony
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Finnaly I can start my build log of the Sherbourne. The kit arrived today and I was overwelmed by what I found in the box. But after a while calmed down. It can be done if I take each step as a project. I will find out to place pictures and will do so during the proces. I hope to make a contribution to the site and the Sherbourne community of builders that writes such wonderfull stuff. Hope to learn a awfull lot of it. next time pictures. Jan
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Hi Everyone, This is my first ever Wooden model ship build so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, I dont really have much spare time so it may end up taking a while to get done... Well i have first planked the hull and i used balsa filler blocks to assist me. However i am having a little bit of problems with the Walnut second planking i decided to plank over the gun ports and then drill/ cut them out with a sharp knife however this didnt really work so i have removed the planks as i was not happy with the result. Ive decided to replace the Walnut with lime wood as i now intend to paint the hull. Anyway this is were i have gotten too.. -
I'm still beavering away at working out the rigging for my Sherbourne cutter of 1763. For reasons given in my build log, I decided to go with the rigging plan shown by Petersson in his book on rigging period fore and aft craft -- rather than the plan shown with the kit. However, this has led me to a few puzzles, current of which is how the lower yard was held. Having prepared the shrouds, backstays and Burton pendants, I was looking at the plans for holding the lower yard. Petersson shows the following: This leaves me puzzled as to how the yard was lowered or raised if just a sling was used. The books I have don't give me a straight answer. Several, such as those by Marquardt, show halliards with blocks (as do the plans for the Sherbourne). Others show just a sling, as does zu Mondfeld: Models in the Royal Dockyard at Chatham show some with a halliard and blocks, whilst others show just a simple sling. Thus a model of a 1763 cutter in Chatham shows the lower yard with a halliard and blocks as follows: I'd be grateful if someone could explain to me whether tyes with blocks were used instead of slings (or vice versa), or whether a ship could be fitted with either (depending on circumstances), or whether both were used together. I have a feeling I'm missing out on understanding function here, so any guidance will, as always, be very welcome! Thanks Tony
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