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Well, here we are back at it. I decided to skip doing a turn on a card model and instead roll with the wood momentum and go straight to Wütender Hund (hereafter referred to as "WH"). I won't do an unboxing here, as I did a complete review of this kit in the reviews section. It is the first wood offering from the Polish firm of Shipyard, who are well-known for their excellent line of tallship card models. Clare Hess is currently working on a very similar cog model, also from Shipyard -- although its name is different, it is more or less the card version of this kit. So, I didn't make very much progress on Day 1, getting only as far as removing the longitudinal profile former and gluing up the parts that form a false keel. I noticed after the glue had already set that one of the parts is slightly misaligned, so I may have to debond that part and reposition it. One thing to watch out for on Polish kits is that left and right parts are marked L and P, not L and R. L does in fact indicate left, same as in English; to remember that P is right, I always think of it as the Greek letter rho, then it makes perfect sense. As you can see, the box is quite large -- too big for my modeling area. And the exciting work of Day 1. The cutting mat is a little less than 12" wide, so you have an idea of how big the finished model will be. TTFN!- 179 replies
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Hi everyone. I would like to present to everyone my attempt to build a sailing ship from the Shipyard set. This is a 1779 model of the HMS Mercury frigate. HMS Mercury was an Enterprize-class frigate. The model is made of paper and is modified by me using wood and metal. -
My current project is a cardboard model of a late 14th century Hanseatic cog (kogge). If you have followed my builds before, you will know that walking and chewing gum are not my strong suit. When I try to build a model AND document it with a build log, I usually get distracted. Here goes. Here is what is SUPPOSED to look like when completed. We'll see. -
Earlier this year, I managed to acquire a relatively new kit produced by the Polish card model kit maker Shipyard. The kit is one of two that were released at least a year ago, maybe longer. Both kits represent medieval Cogs from the 1300s. Unlike other Shipyard kits I've worked on (yes, I only finished one paper ship model kit, but started a couple of them) which were paper kits and required cutting out pre-printed parts, this is a laser-cut card stock kit. Everything is already cut out in this type of kit, and the model requires painting. The kit I am building the kit listed by Shipyard as the Hanse Kogge - Bremen 1380. It is a 1/72 scale laser-cut kit based on the Bremen Cog. The completed model measures a little over 13" long and about 12.5" high. I decided to go ahead and take on this kit, though I have other projects, as the laser-cut design should make construction much simpler than the paper kits I've worked on. Ages of Sail, which is how I got my kit, sells this kit for about $125. There is a second Cog kit available called the Wütender Hund. It's a slightly bigger kit, maybe a little more complex, that sells for about $10 more. If you're interested in buying one, I'd really like to see other build logs! Here's a link to the kits on Ages of Sail: https://www.agesofsail.com/ecommerce/catalogsearch/result/index/?cat=72&q=Kogge So, taking a look at the contents of the kit... The laser-cut parts are in a cellophane envelope, individual carboard boxes keep things from knocking around in the main box and contain parts, paints, etc. The instructions make up a full-color booklet filled with photos. There's very little text, and what there is in multiple languages. Parts that aren't part of the laser cut sheets are provided in a couple cardboard boxes that include rigging line, laser-cut blocks and deadeye sets, paints, brushes, dowels, metal accessories, etc. The sail is pre-cut and pre-marked, but will need to be painted. There are several sheets of laser-cut card stock in various thicknesses and finishes. Some of the sheets have a glossy finish. Here are just some of the sheets. There are a couple sheets of plans included, which mostly cover rigging details. This looks like a very good kit and I'm pretty happy to be able to work on it. Next time, I'll post the start of construction. Clare -
Hi, I am 34 years old and live in Vietnam. This is my first post on this forum, hoping to get acquainted with everyone. My English is not good, so most of the time I use google tools to assist with translation, hoping for your understanding. When I received this kit I realized the detail part was too small for me so I zoomed in to 1:64 to make it easier to do. However, when I launched the Kit I realized that the thickness of the parts had changed a lot and I had difficulty checking their size. But I don't think this is important so here are my first results: -
Hello. My name is Jarek. A few months ago I’ve started building my own HMS Victory, as everybody should have this beautiful ship . I’ve been making Victory based on the Shipyard’s card model. I hope that the memberships of this forum help me to finish the project, giving me advice, supporting when doubts appear, criticizing when necessary. Sorry for any mistakes appear in my English All the bulkheads are made from 1 mm cardboard, except the bottom of hull (beneath the waterline), where the bulkheads are 3 mm thick. To increase the thickness I glued additional strips of paper on each bulkhead side. I made this because I wanted to have a wider surface to glue the first layer of “plank”. All sticking out parts of bulkheads I soaked using CA glue. It helps strengthen them to avoid accidentally damage. Also, I’ve made a jig, which helps me to work with a model upside down and not to be afraid of breaking down those sticking out parts. I glued two pine slats, one on each side, following almost from bow to stern, to keep the straight line of the paper “keel”. Every bulkhead was initially “sanded”, but without using sandpaper. I made this by using the colourless water glue, putting it on each bulkhead edge, to soften this element. Then, with a wooden spatula I smoothed the bulkheads edges. Between the bulkheads I glued cardboard pieces (2 mm thick). It helps to avoid “falling” the paper planks between the bulkheads, because they are not as stiff and hard as wooden. It’s hard to believe, but there are about 500 pieces. Finally, the view of the first "planking". On the lower decks, which are not visible, there are “not fully equipped” gun carriages. The small holes in the carriages were drilled. Before drilling I soaked the element using CA glue in order to have a hard surface for the drill. Firstly, all carriages had been varnished (2 layers), then slightly sanded and finally painted yellow ochre (Talens, Van Gogh). I’ve also made a small jig to build them properly. I’ve also made a “trial version” of the gun, needed temporary for marking the right position of the gun in gunports. In the future the gun will be a little modified, to achieve much better “product”, more resembling the original . It is of course made from paper, except trunnion and knob which are wooden. Before rolling the paper I put on it a thin layer of water glue (on the inside). When the paper is wet it’s easy to roll it and make a pipe, even a small diameter. After drying the glue, paper keeps the proper shape. Making the gun, the paper should be cut off with knife holding slightly in angle. Due to it, the edge joint is proper all along the gun, almost invincible. When you cut the paper holding knife perpendicularly, it is hard to join the edges without leaving a slot. To make a specific shape of muzzle, I also used water glue to soften the paper. When the paper was still wet, I’d formed the muzzle on rubber, pressing paper with wire rounded ending. The hole for trunnion was bored using 3 drills, firstly 0,3 mm, then 0,7 mm finally 1 mm, in order to avoid fraying the edges. Before drilling I soaked the paper with CA glue. I’m working on gunports now. Firstly, using a masking tape, I made fast to the skeleton the first layer of planks. This has been done temporarily for marking the position of gunports opening, on the red “battens”. After that, I cut the battens on smaller sections, so that they fit between each of the bulkheads. Every piece was glued from below, because this way is easier to achieve the good looking gunports. A little defect has brought to light. One of the bulkheads is visible in the gunport opening, which of course shouldn’t be. It will have to be cut down which is now not as easy, as before gluing all together. To be continued… -
I have been working on this for about a month. I had to stay home with my better half due to her scheduled minor operation. So since i had nothing better to do apart from this, i cracked open a few cold ones, turned on my favorite stream and been cutting out, shaping and glueing this lovely little kit. Chosen for its lack of complicated rigging, only two cannons and easy lines of hull. I need a little practice before i jump back in to the deep end of my Victory build. And Santa leocadia, La belle poule, Lexington and tonne of the others that i have all around me. every square inch of my workshop is filled with unfinished projects... i dont think i need to introduce this ship to anybody. Its voyage across the pond have paved way to later discovery of future Ungratefull Colonies, South Americas, great civilizations and magnificient rain forests. All sorts of things. i have not been very good when taking pictures on every step of the journey, it was too quick to be honest. kit is printed on good quality card. Shine is high on some parts. I like it that way, so no complain from my side. I tried my luck with touching edges, mixing shades and stuff, to little effect. I stuck to one shade of brown with a little variations. Did work mostly, but as you will notice, flash is cruel. i have purchased laser cut details and set of frames to make my life easier. These are of great quality, although i would take a few of them off and replace them with different ones. Never mind, i managed to assemble every paper part available in the kit and am now stuck waiting for a set of masts and spars. Coming from Poland, for a hefty price of £25 p&p to UK included. Once received, i will crack on and finish this lovely little ship. I noticed how huge the pictures were. As i have done the post on the mobile, i had no idea. i shall redo this post as soon as i get a minute tomorrow. -
https://blog.agesofsail.com/2020/06/18/new-wooden-kits-from-shipyard/?fbclid=IwAR0BasyN-l8-cXKHOKbuLbj7MttBj8jqRximbt7eHD6jgr-Ty1pUzaERZlY -
Hello A With the summer camping season upon us I've had very little time to work on any of my modeling projects, the Harriet Lane still sits on the bench and I've parked the Niagara as well. I had toyed with the idea of taking some material along but was always deterred by the hassle involved with moving a semi completed project, so the idleness continued, that is until recently! I was perusing MSW one day and came across Clare Hess's (Catopower) build log for the HMS Alert from Shipyard (link below)) a paper model...I've seen paper done before, primarily following Doris's scratch builds (link also below). The attraction to paper is the lack of special tools required to complete a build. So with these two excellent builders as inspiration I took the plunge and ordered the Shipyard Pinta kit from Age of Sail. My primary reason for choosing this kit was cost, it is only $22, I did spring for sails and mast accessory kits which brought the total up to $36.16, less shipping. Not an exorbitant amount for an experiment. THe kit arrived in a couple days and was packaged very well, the main kit consists of 5 pages of printed parts, 1 laser cut in heavy cardboard and 4 printed color parts, some really nice flags, and lots of color photos/instructions . The sails are nicely printed on fabric and precut, the mast are just dowels of various diameters, but does come with a laser cut crows nest, which is a nice addition. So here goes another build log...this one though will only be added to when we get away for the weekend as it is happening on the rv dining table! The first couple pics show the kit packages, I plan to take a snap of the individual sheets as they are used. The ships keel and frames are laser cut from heavy pressed card... These were easy to remove with a #11 scalpel... Once all the parts were removed the main structure was assembled using PVA, the parts fit was very good, the parts went together with no fiddling whatever... I used a straightened paperclip to run a small bead of glue on each kerf before mating the pieces together then used a lego to square things while I readied the next part... It didn't take long to complete the frame... So that were she sits for now, the plan is to build this little ship pretty much box stock with the exception of the ropes, which I will spin up on my rope walk, looking through the sheets of parts the real challenge looks like it will be the rigging blocks, those I may replace as well, but we will see. Thanks for looking in, appreciate you time and attention J -
I have recently purchased the HMS Wolf, a Shipyard paper model, from Cornwall Model Boats in the UK, I also purchased the extra sails and masts sets but was reticent to splash out on the laser cut blocks, however after receiving the model and seeing the size of the parts, each just a few mm and all containing multiple parts I have decided to save my eyes and will place an order for these as well. I was considering purchasing laser cut timber blocks however it seems an extravagance for a simple card model. However I may purchase wooden gun carriages and associated brass guns depending on how I go with cutting and assembling the card parts and the model generally. I have only one complaint in that there was a couple of pages of assembly instructions missing from the kit. I am really hoping that Cornwall are able to convince Shipyard to email me a pdf of the missing pages. Hopefully, as its assembly details and not parts details that are missing there will not be any issues. I will email Cornwall tomorrow. The beauty of this card model is the skeleton is laser cut. I have recently been struggling with cutting and assembling the skeleton for the RMS Mauretania and I find it very time consuming. I have been on that build for several months and have still not progressed beyond the skeleton! Following Dan's lead I have been busy cataloguing all the parts into a spreadsheet with part numbers, page numbers, thickness of any laminations, names of the parts/ assemblies and any relevant comments and then cross references to assembly pages. Anyway here are few some photographs of the kit - The cover, and example assembly and parts pages. Note there is only one colour page of assembly details the rest are black and white. Other than the rigging details all assembly detail is by photograph (no words). A close up of some of double blocks parts as you may be able to discern in this example each block contains 7 parts all of which need to be laminated to either 0.25mm or 0.50mm card. The length of the block in this example is just a few mm. An extract of the assembly instructions for the blocks in question. The assembled skeleton - the majority of the skeleton has been assembled - I think it took less than 15 minutes to dry fit it. I really must say the quality of the laser cut card is absolutely top drawer.- 33 replies
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kit review 1/72 Wütender Hund by Shipyard - Hanseatic Cog
ccoyle posted a topic in REVIEWS: Model kits
1/72nd Scale Wütender Hund - Privateer Klaus Störtebeker's Cog Shipyard **Now available as of 03/2020** (A note about this review: I am not James! Which means that I do not currently possess a slick photography setup, nor do I have photogenic hands. 😋 Judge the photos accordingly!) Polish designers have been in the vanguard of card model kit development for decades. One Polish company, Shipyard, has established a deserved reputation for high-quality card model kits of sailing subjects, usually in 1/96th scale. A few years back, they started producing what they call, thanks to the vagaries of translating Polish into English, “laser-cardboard” kits in 1/72nd scale. These kits included laser-cut parts, a set of laser-cut formers, and all of the fittings and materials—including paints and brushes—needed to finish the model (everything except glue). With the release of Wütender Hund, Shipyard have now entered into the wooden kit market as well. After all, paper is just processed wood, right? When I first read about this impending release, I was keen to find out if Shipyard’s venture into wooden kits would produce something on par with their top-notch paper kits. After a quick glance through the kit’s contents, I think that it’s safe to say that Shipyard has come up with a winner. Ready? Then let’s take a look! Wütender Hund was the vessel captained by Klaus Störtebeker, the leader of a group of North German privateers that were active at the end of the 14th century. The ship is an example of a cog, a common type of merchant vessel during the Middle Ages. The name “Wütender Hund” roughly translates as “mad dog.” When completed, Wütender Hund is 355 mm long by 316 mm high and 200 mm wide. Upon its arrival at my door after its long trip from Puszczykowo, Poland, I was pleased to find that the good folks at Shipyard had packed the shipping box very well, with plenty of cardboard to stiffen it and packaging peanuts to help it survive stops in Poznan, Arnhem, Cologne, and Liege on its way to America. Neither the kit box packed inside nor its contents were damaged in any way. The kit box itself is 500 x 350 x 50 mm in size and features bold graphics, details about the kit, and photos of the prototype model. It comes protected inside a clear plastic shell. Opening the box reveals three smaller boxes along with plans, instructions, and sheets of laser-cut parts packed in clear plastic sleeves. There was no packing material inside the box, but then again there isn’t really anything inside that could be damaged by simply sliding around. We’ll start by unpacking the mysterious inner boxes! Inside the largest of the boxes are rigging materials. Wütender Hund has a very simple rig, having only a single mast and one yard, so there isn’t a whole lot of dowels in the kit—three, to be precise (the smallest-diameter dowel is intended to be used as a glue applicator). One dowel had a slight bend at one end, but the remainder were nice and straight. (I think there's a dog hair in the photo -- I have three dogs, and one of them is a shed-o-matic!) Five diameters of rigging cordage are provided, from 0.1 to 1.0 mm. All of the rigging is left natural; tarred rigging will need to be colored. Blocks and hearts are laser-cut. Each block or heart is built up from multiple layered parts. The inner parts are smaller than the outer parts, so that the finished hearts will have a groove for stropping. (Edit: Having now built up a few of the blocks, I can say that these turn out very nicely.) Moving to the next box, we find individually bagged materials and tools. Two diameters of copper wire are provided for making various metal parts. These and the turned brass belaying pins will need to be blackened. One bag contains tiny pieces of cut plastic tubing that will be used for making gudgeons. Two paint brushes, one square-tipped and the other round, are provided. They appear to be white sable or similar. (Edit: I prefer pre-blackened annealed wire and will substitute that during construction where possible. The cut plastic tubing gets covered by the card stock during the construction process.) In the last box we find a set of four acrylic paints: black, red, white, and beige. (Edit: The paints give very good one-coat coverage.) There are a whopping 14 sheets of laser-cut parts. The laser cutting is very good, and char on the reverse sides is minimal and easily removed. Many of the parts are veneers, so their reverse sides are not even visible on the finished model. The thickest ply sheet contains hull formers. Unlike some wooden kits, these do not have fairing lines engraved on them, but since the bulkheads are thin, they will not need much work in that department. Other parts are cut from different shades of plywood (walnut is my guess), which should produce some pleasing contrasts on the model. Plank seams are laser-engraved. (Edit: After completing much of the hull, it's safe to say that the plywood quality has been very good, no matter the thickness of the sheet. There are a few blemishes here and there, which is to be expected in plywood. The plywood takes stain very well on the engraved side, but the reverse side not so well; this affects relatively few parts of the model.) The thinnest sheets contain veneers that will be applied to various parts of the model. These also have laser-engraved details, which I personally find rather remarkable when considering how thin these actually are, i.e. engraving lines nowhere cut completely through the material. The smallest sheet is brown card stock and contains parts that will need to be painted to simulate ironwork, such as rudder hardware. (Edit: I'm not sure what kind of stock is used for the iron work, but it is tough, molds to contours well, and after painting does a very passable job of looking like real iron work.) A complete suit of pre-cut and pre-printed sails (two -- whoa, nelly!) is included. The striking “mad dog” will need to be painted. As you can see, that’s a lot of parts! Happily, a complete parts list is provided, featuring labeled drawings of every parts sheet. Sixty-four pages of full-color instructions in two booklets walk the builder through the construction process. Book 1 covers hull construction, while Book 2 covers masting and rigging. (Edit: The photo instructions have been great! There have been only a few minor questions raised about what exactly to do, but so far I have been able to figure everything out. If anything, there might actually be more photos than than are necessary, but I'm not going to complain.) The instructions are almost entirely photo-based and include very little text, but the build sequence is thoroughly outlined by the high-quality and plentiful photographs. This format will feel familiar to card modelers. Two single-sided and one double-sided plan sheets are included. These include hull plan and profile views, masting and sail plan, and rigging plan. Shipyard’s extensive experience with both laser-cutting and the production of card model kits has enabled them to do a superb job of bringing to market what is essentially a card model in design that is constructed in wood rather than paper. (Edit: This extends even to having to attain proper parts thicknesses by laminating two or more parts together. Again, this is familiar to card modelers, but may be something unexpected to modelers who have only built the usual kinds of wooden models.) The quality materials, colorful instructions, and attention to detail suggest that Shipyard are sincere in their desire to bring together the best of both modeling media. Have they succeeded? I think they have, and I’ll probably find out for certain in the near future, as this kit practically begs to be started sooner rather than later. My sincere thanks go to Shipyard for providing this kit for review, and I hope that it becomes a big seller for them. For those interested in buying the kit, Ages of Sail, an MSW sponsor, is the US distributor of Shipyard products. For those wishing to stick to card models, Shipyard also offer a laser-cut cog kit in 1/72nd scale as can be seen here being built by Clare Hess and reviewed here. Cheers! -
Hello my friends, As the next ship I decided to build the famous english galleon built in 1577 Revenge, flagship of the sir Francis Drake during the Armada campaign in 1588 and mostly famous for his last fight with the spanish fleet in 1591 ( she was under command of Richard Grenville ).I think that´s no necessary to explain more about this ship Now I decided not to build the ship from scratch, but I decided for the Shipyard model of this ship, re-released last year. I alredy built this ship fro mte 1st release in 2009 - it was my first ship model after a very long pausem and because I love ships from this age, after re - releasing of this model I had no doubt about the next ship in my collection I started the build immediately after receiving of the kit. The frame of the ship is laser cutted, but there are no all of the necessary parts cutted, several of them you have to cut out personally. You can see it on 2,3,4 th picture. Until today I completed the frame including decks, today I´d like also to grind the hull ( it´s necesarry - some parts are printed with excesses an because of 90 degrees of angles ). There are some little mistakes in some parts as they were in the old one, but nothing special. Here are pics. Jan -
I had a search, but couldn't find any other build logs of this model, so although I feel deeply unqualified, I thought I'd post a build log. This is the first card model I've built - in fact, it is mainly paper, with a laser-cut card frame (ShipYard also do a card version which is 1:72, and much more expensive!). So this won't be a masterclass, but hopefully the surprises and lessons learned as I go will be helpful to someone else following in my footsteps I started this model last year when I went on holiday - my main build is way too big to travel, so this one is more manageable (and a little less anti-social) - it may take me a while to finish, but hopefully I'll get there. I started by assembling the card structure of the ship. The diagrams provided are excellent, and the laser-cutting so good that this was very simple, and with a little care, it went together very nicely. I've read elsewhere that using a little superglue to wick into the extensions at the tops of the bulkheads strengthens them somewhat... I was too slow, and they got pretty mashed up. I'm hoping I'll be able to make up for that later on. So far, I've skinned the lower part of the hull, and started putting the details onto the gundeck. Here's a slightly more in-depth description of what I've learned, and done so far. Basic tools: Carpenters glue (Aliphatic) UHU glue (really really useful!) Pritt stick Superglue Lots of sharp xacto blades #11 and a handle Cutting mat 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2mm card to stick the paper onto where directed. (This was found in my local art supplies shop - I found it really hard to get online) 1. Assemble the frame from the laser-cutting. I used Carpenters glue to do this, and lego bricks to check it was all lined up... I think this was probably overkill, because with the deck on, it's pretty rigid, but it was my first attempt so I wanted to make sure it was all perfect. Sandpaper was useful to bevel the frames once put together... the card won't go over them (or have a flat surface to stick to) without this step, so it's pretty crucial. That said, it's pretty quick compared to bevel the frames on wooden models... that means it's even easier to go too far! - I marked the edges of the bulwarks with a marker so I could tell when I was not only reducing one side, but the overall outline of the bulwark. Once the frame was built, a couple of detail bits get stuck on to the lower deck (a brown sharpie was useful to edge the bits that are cut out to get rid of the white edges and make it look tidy), and then the false deck was then added... I made a mistake here by splurging on carpenters glue thinking that the paper covering would lie flat if only I pushed it down enough... not so much, it seems. It ended up looking horribly bumpy and I thought I'd wrecked the model... The answer (for me) it turns out is to use UHU, add it to the card, and then use a piece of card to scrape it and make it nice and flat, then add the paper, smoothing it as you go. This ends up in a nice flat surface... Thankfully, as we'll see, the false deck gets covered over later with a second 0.5mm sheet of card with the real gundeck pattern glued on top of it, so disaster was well and truly averted, and you'd never know I stuffed up now! Here's the first gun deck - you can't see the bumps, but trust me... they're there! More later. Rob -
Well, I’ve done it. I started messing around with a card model from Shipyard because I was really curious about them. I didn’t mean to turn this into a real project, but I can’t help it, this thing is so frikkin’ cool! I’ve already described the kit in detail in the topic I started: here, so no point in rehashing that. I’ll just say that I’ve been distracted by this model more and more and now I might as well just get it over with and make a regular project out of it. Luckily, this card model seems to be progressing a lot faster than my wooden model projects. I think it’s because all the parts are already defined. I don’t have to figure out anything, I just have to build. So, I started tinkering with this kit back in August and picked it up every now and again to add some more to it. Now, I’m at the point where I’m spending multiple evenings in a row on it. At this rate, I don’t think it’s going to take all that long. I'd better really get working on this or I'll never get back to my other projects! Here’s where it all started... Framing was easy using the laser cut parts included in the kit. Note that not all of the shipyard paper models include laser cut framing. Instead, they give you the parts printed on standard paper and you are required to laminate that paper onto layers of card stock or plain paper in order to build the part up to the proper thickness. On a model this size, the frame density and the stiffeners seem to make the hull enough to work with The first layer of the hull covering is made up of thin pieces that fit nicely across the bulkheads. It's hard to avoid a little overlap, but I found it important to try, otherwise it creates a wavy surface for the planking. With the layer of stiffners in place, the first layer of hull planking is laid. There are two layers of planking, so I guess you can consider this a double-planked hull. The first layer consist of belts of planks. It's nice that these are printed with properly shaped planks. This makes this model more accurate than 90% of the wooden ship models kits out there, at least in terms of hull planking. The first problem I ran into was the in determining the proper positioning of the bulwarks piece. But, that looks like it will work itself out okay. The second problem is shown here with the laying down of the planking belts. This is a 2-D object laying down on a 3-D surface. The belts are relatively narrow, but not narrow enough to avoid creating a wavy surface along the edges. Fortunately, there is another layer of planking to go over this, so maybe I was worrying about it too much. But, what I found was that after the glue set, I could wick a tiny amount of CA into the edge and then push down on the bumps to flatten them out a bit. That has it's own hazzards as you can see here the glue fingerprints that I haven't seen since my early days of plastic model building. This is the point where I decided to try painting the surface of the hull using paints sold by ShipYard. Clare
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Hello friends, I'm starting a project here is mixture of research and building. As I came from the plastic kit bashing side of the modelling society I'm fed up with the chequebook modelling destroing any creativity. So as I'm in a new less payed job I changed my mind to a more creative and less expensive theater of the hobby: cardboard modelling. The scale fits to my flat's size. Sorry for my bad English - I'm not rearly far away from my school standards 30 years ago. Base of my project is the early Shipyard plan of Le Coureur the French lugger in 1/96. The little ship that was taken 1778 by HMCutter Alert - and what a nice and heartwarming thing it is that due to this find we have got the plans in the NMM. It is the basis of the Bourdriot monographie. The are three important sources of knowledge for me strating in the modelship's world: A. Petesson - Fore and After Rigging B. Bouriot - Le Coureur Monographie C. Friends of the Navy Museum - Plan (1960th?) (D. a www-copy if the NMM-plan) The Peterson shows the rigging of a bigger and in some details differing lugger from the same timeframe. The monographie is very good and well detailed - I decided to take the save route and ordered a new issiue at www.ancre.fr so the money was directly. with the drawer. And I was shure to get a complete set of plans. The Paris Museum's plan is based on the Admirals Pâris drawings and showing a simpler rigging with a diffrend decks layout. The NMM plan shows a superstructure in red on deck - the Shipyard kit shows hatches. Boudriot draws his particular part in dotted lines in one deck's sideview. I decided to trust in the NMM plan and in Ancre, too. So I've figured out the kitmakers at Shipyard followed the plan of the Paris Naval Museum. The similarity of the stern decorations are also evident. So the list of errors, carenesslesses and force to construct a buildable cardboard kit've born an intersting fundament of a nice little ship. As I'm not a francophone person, I have got my. problems with the texts in the monographie. But from all the three sourced it seems to be the one of the highest quality. So here some first impressions for you about the similarity of the kit and the Paris Plan. 1. The sternview of the ParisPlan 2. Some picture from the Shipyard manual showing the missing badge 3. The “KateWinslet leaving step“ in the topview 4. same area in the manual 5. my hobby ship yard. These as some first impressions for you. At the moment I'm struggling with the lasercut cardboard hull and its plywood filling I've get tip in a German forum. -
Good afternoon, all. Today I will be presenting my latest build project, The Revenge, a cardmodel from Shipyard, a Polish publisher of card ship model kits. I chose this ship because I like it, having built it as an Airfix plastic model many moons ago, it's looking great and I never built a Shipyard model before. BUT most importantly, because I think it will be great fun building it. Fun always comes first for me. For those who aren't familiar with the Revenge and her history, I will first give a short introduction to the ship. The Revenge was built by Master Shipbuilder Mathew Baker as race-built galleon. Race-building has little to do with speed as the name might suggest. Race-building was an English 'translation' of razee and linked to the terms: razing to the ground and razor. A razeed ship had a number of decks removed, normally from the fore- and after-castle to make the ship handle better and be more manoeuvrable. The Revenge was relatively small at 43 m length and 440 tons burthen, especially when compared with the then built Spanish galleons who were built big for extra cargo capacity, but still carried four masts and up to 46 guns, 20 on the gundecks and 26 on the weatherdecks. Having been built in 1577, the Revenge participated in many actions, like the raid on Cadiz in 1587, the battle of Gravelines (1588), the Frobisher Expedition (1590) and in the battle of Flores (1591), where the ship was captured by a Spanish fleet of 53 vessels, after 15 hours of constant action and repulsing numerous boarding attempts. Her Master, Richard Grenville, died of battle wounds two days after the capture onboard the Spanish flagship. The Spanish didn't get to use her much because on route back to Spain, the already heavily damaged ship was caught in a storm off the Azores, and sank, together with a number of victorious Spanish ships. I guess it's not the best ending for a proud vessel, but at least Lord Tennyson wrote a poem about her and her last battle. So she'll be remembered. The model is supplied in A3 format, and has twelve pages of printed parts, 7 pages of drawings and templates and a laser cut set of frames and keel. Oh, and a rather short set of building instructions. I guess a picture paints a thousand words. Below I'll add some photo's from the part pages. I must admit, I am mightily impressed (and utterly terrified) by the large number of parts and sub-parts that will have to be cut out, stuck to thicker board, edge-painted and stuck together. Yep, I definitely have my work cut out for me. Luckily the start will be easy, on account that the frames and keel have been pre-cut (4 sheets in total). So it's gonna be a quick start, and then a grind. And a grind. And a grind. But first let me introduce you to my set of tools. A crafty knife, an unruly ruler, some nippers and tuckers, some files and sanding equipment, some paint (enamel), an awl, to score the parts with and four types of glue (only showing two), namely rubber cement for large sections because it allows for some movement after sticking and will not distort card, a small bottle of PVA for the small detail parts (which are most of them anyway) which will dry up almost invisibly, a can of spray mount, for sticking the card sheets onto thicker cardboard and a bottle of superglue for card stiffening and other uses. Both superglue and spray mount are on order, as are three thicknesses of card, 0.5, 0.75 and 1.0 mm thick. I will try to keep this build 'pure', i.e. use only card or paper, unless I have to use something else, like threads for the rigging. So no metal barrels, no wooden dowels for masts, nothing like that. Just paper, card and glue. And me. Interested? I know I am! I'll start by 'releasing' the frames and keels and start the construction with them But more about that later. Heffulovelievenin! Till laterzzz! Adrie. -
Hello everyone Well Christmas has come and gone and as promised I am starting a build log. One thing to notice straight off is that I have named the ship Enterprise with an 'S' rather than 'Z' which is the spelling on the kit. Not a big deal but something I want to do. Now as stated in the title this is a card model. I have never done anything like this before so with the help of all you good people here I hope I can do her justice. Here are 2 photos of the kit. -
First of all, i am not trying to cash up on current craze with the card models, that seem to spurt on the forum. I collected these models since 2006 and as my interests are constantly shifting, i have a few that i probably never would touch. so here they are
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Hi all, This is my first building log to present currently build cardboard laser cut model of Papegojan sailing ship. The model is produced by a Polish manufacturer - Shipyard. I would like to present my vision of a "veteran" ship. This version is going to differ from the one proposed by Shipyard. The out of the box model is supposed to look brand new, just put on the water, ready to set sail. However, I want to present it at the end of its days, harbored at the forgotten shipyard. I am going to achieve this by using different techniques and my paintings abilities. One picture says 1000 words - I am not going to describe every single one of them. In case you would like to know anything, please do not hesitate to ask. I will do my best to answer every question. I invite you to join me in this journey. -
This is my current card build, Berbice a Baltimore Clipper. The kit is a box set of laser cut parts, hardware, wood dowels, paint and sails. Copper tape is also included with the kit. This will make my 2nd laser cut kit I have built. The main deference between this and a normal card kit is.....the parts are all laser cut for you and you paint to add the color. Normal card kits are in a printed format requiring cutting and assembly. Each type requires a different approach, yet they also assemble in like manner. I have seen card models that looked like the were in a museum. So it is another medium to work within, the ship builder's realm. I am also working on another project, so up dates will happen albeit slow. Rick -
I've started this kit, which was a Christmas present to me from the First Mate (although she's not terribly enthused!). It's similar to the Enterprize kit also by Shiptard, but the Mercury version is slightly more expensive and includes a laser-cut skeleton although otherwise identical as far as I know; laser parts are available as extra for the Enterprize and there are extra kits of masts and of pre-made sails for both kits. I'm intending this as a hull-only model, loosely based on Admiralty models. I've previously done mainly wood kits, but also HMS Saumarez and Consul Pust in paper/card. This kit is considerably more complex and definitely not for beginners. It's 1/96 scale, and the skeleton is about 390mm with the kit claiming 660mm for the completed model It's an impressive kit: 15 pages of printed parts (1 x A4, 14 x A3) well-printed on good quality paper, 3 A3 sheets of laser-cut skeleton, 11 A3 sheets of instructions and photos and a sheet of flags. It includes printed parts for the 1779 original (decorative) and post-1795 (Nelsonic black-and-ochre), although the choice doesn't have to made for a while. The printing looks good and sharp, and the laser-cut parts (on 1mm card) are beautifully precise; my only minor gripe is that the card on the coarse side and needs a bit of care to avoid delaminating. I didn't have to make any adjustments to the skeleton to get things to fit, which is commendable. The instructions are non-verbal, with a series of photos of the kit being bullt and the instruction to add parts in the sequence shown, which is fairly clear with care, although the parts are clearly numbered but aren't in number order on the sheets so a lot of time is spent searching! Some also have to be doubled onto card of 0.5. 1.0 or 2.0mm. I started after Christmas and I am expecting it to take me well past Summer. Some photos: firstly the kit as unpacked (and I think keeping track of all the bits will be a major exercise in itself). Secondly the spine, which is two thicknesses of the 1mm card, with a substantial overlap. Thirdly, I've cut in two brass tube for a mount later - I may not use them but they need to go in now just in case; not very neat as they will be hidden inside. Lastly for now the skeleton ready for plating. Note how small the horns are on frames I and II, and the fiddly small pieces for the stern framework. The instructions say to build this off the ship and attach when done, which I haven't got to, but again they look fragile. PS I started this as a simple kit review last week, in the Card and paper models section, but it's going to be a buildlog, so I've re-started it here. -
Hello, everyone! I am currently preparing to build my first wooden ship model (the Amati/Victory Models Lady Nelson). I have been reading up on the various techniques needed to construct the hull, and while I wait for the kit to arrive, I thought I'd go about gathering some basic tools to help me with the build. I thought it might be a good idea to list the various tools that I have purchased (or will purchase) so that all the knowledgeable and experienced members of this forum can let me know if I'm forgetting something important. Since this is my first build (and I'm on a budget), I am keeping it simple and sticking to basic hand tools -- you won't find any lathes or Dremels in this list! I'm not going to be using any special plank-bending tools, as the "old school" method of soaking the planks, bending them over the bulkheads, clamping them, and allowing them to dry before attachment really appeals to me (and seems like a great way to get a really nice fit). I should also mention that, for now, I'm focusing on the tools I will need to construct the hull (I don't want to get ahead of myself). When it comes time to do the rigging, I will obtain a few extra tools, such as picks/hooks and perhaps a "helping hands" with a magnifier. So, here's my list: Deluxe Ship Modeler's Tool Set (I found a great deal on this set, and since I don't have any of the tools included with it, I thought it would be a good place to start; the set includes 3 hobby knives with 15 assorted blades, aluminum miter box with razor saw blade, pointed nose tweezers, flush cutter with spring-loaded handles , aluminum awl, 4 assorted gouges, 2 small needle files, pin vise with 3 micro drill bits, and a wooden sanding block with wedge) Mantua Strip Clamp (doubles as a keel clamp for hull work and a plank vise with a metal edge to assist in planing planks when tapering) Additional needle files (to supplement the contents of the kit) Miniature wood plane (1" wide) Analog calipers (I chose these over digital calipers for the savings, and the lack of batteries required) Small square Ruler Metal compass and mechanical pencil Emery boards Sandpaper (assorted grits) White wood glue CA glue Wood filler Small folding clips (the black metal clips with silver metal arms; for clamping during hull planking) T-pins Q-Tips Index cards Self-healing cutting mat Swing-arm lamp (with magnifier) From what I can tell, this list seems to include the essentials that I'll need to do a good job, while not being too pricey. Let me know what you think! Thanks! -
Hoi, I am going to build my first sailship with a lasercut hull and some details, looking forward to it, but it scares me too. I Always liked a sailship for decoration, so now the time has come to do somthing about it. This build will give her the appearence of the first years of service [ like that] with the fancy colors and open side's on the aft deck. foto 2 upper drawning. To start whit frame's and first planking for stabillity. Now i'm going back to gluing, see you soon. Jos.- 2 replies
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Well, I'm back, yeppie........and again, I wade into the fray with a build. I was torn about work being done on a plastic kit, or a card kit I started a few months ago. The plastic kit is a very involved project and I just want to build to completion w/in a year if possible. So the card kit won out. And just what kit am I talking about.........a Shipyard 1/72 Santa Maria, all laser cut kit from Poland. For those in tha know, these are as complete a kit for a card model as one is going to find in one box. Comes w/everything one needs to build a truly wonderful vessel. This will be my 2nd time building one of their laser cut box kits, the 1st was a French Lugger and I will admit, I rushed the painting and I really did not care for the look after done. These kits come w/tube water base paint, of which I have since learned, is done in layers to achieve the desired look. I however will not go this route this time, but rather try something new, we will see how it pans out. These kits are not cheap, I believe I paid $140.00 USD f/this one from a dealer here in the US, Paper-Model Store.com, great guy to deal with. I also will use for the corrections the copy of Xavier Pastor's Anatomy of The Ship, The Ships of Christopher Columbus. Yes I know, photos............will come soon. Please feel free to ask or point out as you see the need and we all will learn from this build. Rick -
Hello everybody Today I will start my second build log in this great forum. Presently I am not only working on my model of the HMS Victory (Caldercraft) but started my first card model “Schwarzer Rabe” by Shipyard, 1:96. Schwarzer Rabe (black raven) is a typical fluyt, a type of ship created in the Netherlands around the end of the 16th century. The fluyts were common in Northern Germany, The Baltic Sea and had some features distinguishing them from other types of sailing ships. They had a characteristic round stern and special proportions of the hull: narrow deck (because Danish customs were charged according to the deck space) and wide lower hull since fluyts were merchandise vessel and needed to store as much goods as possible. As a result of that the bulwark is strongly moving inside towards the deck. Schwarzer Rabe was captured by the Poles and was then one of the vessels of the victorious Royal Polish Fleet in the battle of Oliwa in 1627. Its original dimensions are: length approx.. 106 ft, width approx.. 7m. The card model will be 40,5 cm long, 16,8cm wide and 34 cm high. The vessel was armed with 8 cannons. In addition to the card model set I also bought a set with lasercut ribs, details of the construction, masts (round wood). In the first few pics I will show you parts of the card set. Further pics show the construction of the hull. First, the ribs were glued together with the deck. Then comes the so-called first planking. Everything is strongly glued and gives a stable hull. Then the inner bulwarks are glued in place. This is followed by the second planking. The second planks are small stripes of paper with 2-3 planks.
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