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Found 10 results

  1. I am working on a kit from Corel of the HMS Victory. I started the standing rigging. I installed the Shrouds on all three masts. The ship then went on the back burner for about six months. When returning to the model to continue I found that the shrouds were sagging and loose. I tightened up on the dead eyes but now they are too close and uneven. So I am going to remove the shrouds and start fresh. My question is, do I need to stretch the rigging cord beforehand and if so what is the preferred method for this. Thanks, Dave.
  2. I am baffled. This is Corel’s La Toulonnaise. The instructions for the shrouds are about as clear as mud. Figure 35 shows how the shrouds are attached to the ship. The second pair of shrouds attaches to the third and sixth link. Where does the middle shroud go? It is not mentioned in the instructions. If I understand the instructions each side of the lower mast will have what amounts to six shrouds. Or do the pulleys attach to some point inside the bulwarks or to a belaying pin? Can anyone help clear this up? Don Purney
  3. MAY 20TH THROUGH THE 24TH 2019 (MON-FRI) BlueJacket's rigging class is a popular event. We run it from 9 to 3 for 5 days (although some people leave early on Friday.) IT IS A CLASS FOR NOVICES. We don't assume you know anything about rigging a ship model. All tools and materials are provided with the class fee of $400. You get a hull to work on, all the sticks and dowels, the glue, blocks, deadeyes, threads, wire, beeswax, and the following tools: Excel hobby knife and blades Pin Vise Assortment of drill bits tweezers needle nose pliers
  4. Hi all I'm building a 1:12 yacht model, the actual boat would be 28 foot hull (around 9m) & a 20th century yacht - so the shrouds would be wire perhaps 8 to 10mm diameter actual (or 0.65 to 0.8 or 1mm diameter to scale). The actual rigging would be stainless steel, so it would be nice for it to look like that. It needs to be straight when tensioned a bit, it won't look any good with kinks. Also, I think that some texture is preferable, to replicate the texture of the SS wire, but I'm open to solid... I'm be grateful for any suggestions, thanks
  5. Over the last few months, I have worked through a very challenging task of creating a set of files that cover the rigging of the Royal William. They include text, diagrams and photos arranged in a sequential order of rigging. They are freely available for anybody who wishes to make use of them and it is my fervent desire that they will add to the joy of creating this mighty ship. Having said that, there is still some work to be done on these files to fully complete them. Hopefully, the MSW members will 'jump in' and make this a real community effort through a range of ideas, suggestions and cr
  6. Good morning everyone. Finally I am progressing with my current project, HMS Liverpool circa 1778, 1:96. I have made the lower masts and bowsprit and I am now putting riggind attachment points on each. Now ther question: I've checked Steel, Lee's, and David A's Swan Class to verify attachment of the Fore stay, Fore Preveter Stay and Bowsprit shrouds. Swan class show a heart (open in the case of the Fore Stay. Steel says either or, while Lee's also shows either or. Although Liverpool was built in 1757, she was rebuilt twice. Also, twenty years latter, I'm sure that her rig was updated.
  7. Super detailing the cutter Sherbourne, a guide to building the Caldercraft kit, by George Bandurek. I published this book in 2011 and at the time there were several threads that showed photos of my build. These are not now easily accessible so I have resurrected some of the information. The attached pdf files are extracts from the book that show how I tackled some of the topics. I would welcome any comments on these extracts, or if you have bought a copy of the book (thank you!) then please post a review. More information on the book is available on my website www.grbsolutions.co.uk. Buy d
  8. I'm having a heck of a time getting the lanyards between the deadeyes of shrouds from not twisting up. They seem to want to go with the lay of the thread of the shroud above them. I'm ok until I put the least bit of tension on the lanyards. When I do, they spin around. What are the possible causes of this and cures? The deadeyes are starting out parallel to each other, and the lower ones (in the channel) are free to swivel. Could it be that I just need to hold the shroud in place as I string the deadeyes? It seems like this would just delay the twisting until I was done with the deadeye
  9. I am working on the belaying plan for the Caldercraft model of HMS Sherbourne, cutter, and can't figure out how the ropes holding the topmast shrouds are fixed. There is no indication of those particular shrouds in the kit's plans for the standing rigging. Petersson's book on Rigging Period Fore and Aft Craft shows them being fixed via pulleys hooked to the channels, but the pulleys are shown with the pulling rope merely wound round the top of the upper block of the two that are hooked to the channel. Would the loose end of that rope have been fixed to the main shrouds with a cleat, or wou
  10. Hi All, In a lot of the literature it is written that shrouds are turned on the dead-eyes by using a throat-seizing (I.e.: http://www.hnsa.org/doc/luce/part11.htm). I've noticed in a lot of pictures on the forum that on models this one is usually skipped. Is this a 'normal' practice to make on the models? I am asking because I have tried to make it as in the pictures, but failed. Is there a known method to make one on a model? I have 'asked' google, but failed to get something till now. Thanks for help! Bye, Daniel
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