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Found 6 results

  1. Well, having read the thread on an article seen the drawings and photos about a cutter preserved in Venice, the beautiful form has inspired me to attempt to build a model in 1:48 scale. The first step was to download the photos of the pages in the article that showed the surveyed drawings. These had to be stitched together and distortion removed, which was done in PhotoShop. Then the drawings had to be re-sized to 1:48. Having the overall length, width and depth helped define the reduction required. Once the drawings were to scale, I could begin. The first step was to begin preparing a plug on which to build the hull. Leaves of yellow cedar were cut from blocks (1) and sanded. Four layers a scale 4" thick, two layers 8" and one layer of 15" were needed for each half of the plug. These thicknesses matched the waterlines on the plan (2). Tracing paper was used to transfer the waterlines to the leaves of cedar and laid down using graphite paper (3). The opposite pairs of wood leaves were rubber cemented together before cutting them out on the scroll saw. To be continued!
  2. I present a new model, although it is true that with its already advanced construction process. As I made the hull using my usual technique, which I have shown on the forum several times, there is no photo of this part of the process. It should also be noted that the masts are only presented and are not final, neither because of their length nor because of the inclination with which they appear. And now, by way of introduction, a brief historical overview of this type of boat. Until the end of the 19th century, in the region of Port-Louis, in Brittany, coastal fishing for roe sardines practiced in good weather was supplemented by winter trawling of other larger species. This task was carried out with solid open boats, of about 10 m. in length and 2.80 m. wide, with a draft of 0.70 m. The winter sea conditions are harsh in these waters, which makes it very difficult to work in the open air on these open boats, which is why, in 1882, a boss from Lorient took the initiative to equip his boat with a temporary deck, which is armed against winter and disassembled in good weather. In turn, as coastal fishing became more and more scarce, fishermen went deeper and deeper into the open sea, and soon these removable deck boats began to be used for trawling in rougher waters, for which they did not present the adequate nautical characteristics. For this reason, in a short time the deck boats evolved, with a permanent deck, but they were made with the same shapes as the large open boats, retaining their main U-shaped section, but providing them with a planking above and solidly decked, fitted with a windlass and higher masts, so all the weight was added at the top and had to be balanced with ballast. But the maintenance of the main U-shaped section prevented placing this ballast (essential in a trawler) sufficiently low. In addition, the righting moment of a hull of this U-section has a high initial stability which decreases very quickly with pronounced angles of inclination, which makes these ships very sensitive high waves and sea blows. These decked boats, with an elegant appearance, showed that their nautical qualities were not adequate for the conditions of navigation on the high seas. Between 1891 and 1900, eleven of them were shipwrecked, resulting in the stoppage of their production and their replacement by small dundées, which prove to be much safer.
  3. Someone, I know, has a good answer to this one... I'm building a small boat model. (It's the Bluejacket Skiff.) I'm making the sail for it now and would like to add a number to it, as every small boat used for dinghy racing has. What's the best way to do that? I'm using a high thread count cotton, as recommended by Steve Wheeler in an article he wrote in the April 2004 Ships in Scale. His model didn't have a number on the sail, though. Iron-on transfers? Dry transfers? Some other technique? Just wondering what others have done. Dan
  4. This is my new model. I do not put photos of the first part of the work because they are the same as in my other models
  5. Welcome to another addition of simple boats built by Dave. I have gone down the rabbit hole of having more kits then years left on this earth. I can only hope I get to all of them...I can not wait to retire! so here is the box and insides for post #1...since it was an EBay find, someone had already taken all of the pieces out of the wood blanks and didn’t break them! I was missing half of the stem so I had to scratch build a new one. Practice!
  6. After attempting to build 4 Model Shipway small boat kits I gave up in frustration. Never pray for patience as a wooden boat modeler because God will whisper “ Get the Model Shipways Small Boat Kit it will be fun.” I built Master Korabel Cannon Jolle and really enjoyed it. Was a fun build using quality material so I got the 75mm 1/72 scale Small Boat to hang on my Syren. This kit comes with quality material also. Nice ply for formers and pear wood for the boat itself. I bought my kit on eBay and it came directly from Russia with the instructions in Russian. I contacted Greenstone at Master Korabel and within 2 hours had instructions in English. Great customer service. Here is what is in the box:
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