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Found 25 results

  1. My first wood model kit of this caliber. I am working on a 1/96 scale Yacht America from Bluejacket and just completed the USS Constitution from Revell a plastic kit with many wood enhancements and under full sail. Here is what I have so far.... This is where I started...
  2. Time to start a new model. Made in Rockland, Maine in 1853, the Red Jacket was a clipper ship, one of the largest and fastest ever built. She was also the first ship of the White Star Line company. She was named after Sagoyewatha, a famous Seneca Indian chief, called "Red Jacket" by settlers.She was lost in a gale in 1885.On her first voyage, Red Jacket set the speed record for sailing ships crossing the Atlantic by traveling from New York to Liverpool in 13 days, 1 hour, 25 minutes, dock to dock. That record still stands today for commercial sailing vessels. The BlueJacket kit has 5 sheets of plans. Sheet 1 has the pre-carved hull laid on top of it. This is going to be a large model! (41" LOA)
  3. Another Marine Model Company Kit. I just can’t resist rescuing unfinished kits I find on eBay. I intend to enhance this kit with planking and Viking Oarsmen. I am researching the Gokstad ship as a guide for my enhancement. Should be fun.
  4. I decided on this kit for my next build because it will, if finished in time, become a Christmas gift for my daughter and son-in-law, both of whom enjoy eating lobster and vacationing in Maine. I'll probably put granddaughter's name on the finished model. I decided to do a build log because as far as I can find out this kit has never had one. Bluejacket sells 3 different lobster boat kits; this one which is 12’’ long, a 23” POB/POF kit, and a 3 ft honker with a fiberglass hull intended for RC. I went with this size because it will fit neatly on a bookshelf. The Red Baron is famous in lobstering circles, she won a lobster boat race a few years back, clocking in at a record 57 knots! I’ll show what’s in the box but if you are interested you can go to BlueJacket’s homepage and click on the “What’s in the box” tab where a video of this kit is shown, along with some shots of the completed model. Plans - one sheet of plans showing side and overhead views and the layout of the laser-cut wood pieces Instruction book - Bluejacket rates this kit as appropriate for beginners so the instructions are more detailed than what I am used to from their more advanced kits. The instructions tell you what to do, how to do it and provide warnings where needed to help prevent mistakes. There are also a lot of photos and drawings. Pre-carved hull: The hull already has its basic shape and the cockpit area is carved out so this should only take a little sanding to bring it into its final shape and then to smooth it up for painting Laser cut wood: Most of the wood provided in the kit is laser cut, including several templates that will be used to check the final shape of the hull near the bow and the curve of the stem. Metal fittings: A bag of brass and britannia metal fittings is provided, giving this kit more detail than I expected. Tools and supplies: The kit comes with basic tools like a hobby knife, sand paper, a pin vise with 2 drill bits, tweezers, a wooden ruler, and paintbrushes. Medium CA glue, debonder and all required paints are included. There is also a bag of white powder which I could not figure out until I read the directions - it’s wood filler that can be mixed with water. Lobster traps: Material and instructions to build 3 lobster traps are included.
  5. Is it wrong to have three logs at once? Another solid hull to keep me occupied while my other boats are drying, or waiting for something. No rigging and I think this one will be fun. Surprised there are no logs for this boat, perhaps there is a reason? For the low sale price of $39.99 the castings are really nice and the is vastly improved I believe since the cabin is now laser cut and not a solid chunk of wood. I sanded some some of the hull and I’m hoping this will be good practice for the thin bulwarks my phantom requires.
  6. So after purchasing quite a few model shipway kits I’ve decided this Phantom kit (given there are quite a few completed logs and a well written practicum by Chuck) would have the highest probability of success and completion, with the lowest monetary loss. After opening the box and comparing the parts list, I am only missing one mast cap. I also noticed they did not include the original instructions, but did include Chucks guide and “The neophyte shipmodeller’s Jackstay”. Hopefully I can do this kit the justice it deserves.
  7. This is my 2nd build. Received the Mary Taylor kit for Christmas 2018. My first build was the Swampscott Dory from Bluejacket, so this is a real step up in difficulty. I'm excited to get started and welcome all helpful feedback. The instructions suggest two ways to shape the hull 1) by eye, or 2) using hull templates. Since I'm new at this, I've chosen the template method. It takes a bit more work, but should produce a more accurate hull shape. I've marked the station lines from the Body Line Plan. Now it's time to create the templates.
  8. Here's the kit contents of the BlueJacket Mary Taylor pilot boat. The kit comes with copper tape, but I will be using individual plates on this model.
  9. I am a beginner at ship modeling but an experienced model builder of trains and structures used on model railroads. I work in O Scale (1:48) in model railroading. I have an old kit from Model Shipways I purchased many many years ago. It is solid hull. I have the complete kit and the optional hardward that was sold separately from the basic model. I know this is an advanced model but it is the only kit I have. The rest of the ship models I want to build will be all scratch built. I figured I should get me feet wet on the Flying Fish. In future ships I build will not be solid hull. I was looking for but can't seem to find on the internet any tutorials focused towards solid hulls. I do have a number of books on ship modeling and there is not too much on that type of hull. I also downloaded the Model Shipways tutorial but it deals with the newer kits which are not solid hull. Any advice, other than don''t do it, would be appreciated. Jay Beckham
  10. Hi All, After having been away from the hobby for a while I purchased the combined USS Monitor and CSS Virginia kits from Bluejacket. I completed the USS Monitor and a build log if it can be seen here: Now moving on to the CSS Virginia. It is a noticeably more complex kit than the Monitor but of equally high quality. The hull is well formed and the various metal pieces come in a nice segregated and sealed bag. The plans are also well drawn and quite descriptive. Thanks to @MrBlueJacket and company for again making a great kit. Looking forward to getting into the thick of building it. The kit contains a number of individual metal pieces all nicely packaged. I couldn't resist setting the completed USS Monitor next to the bare hull of the CSS Virginia for scale.
  11. I will be building the CSS Virginia (ex-Merrimac) model. When finished, it will be 17 1/2" long. The instructions start with a nice bit of history on the ship:
  12. I believe this is an Alabama class Revenue Cutter circa 1819. Blue jacket was pretty vague on the origin. I was first concerned about the hull since it seemed to have very little room to shape. As I began working it, though, it is coming along nicely. The kit has well-drawn plans that accompany a nice instruction manual. I have never attempted a wooden ship model and have already emailed Nic at Blue jacket a couple of dumb questions. He has been great about responding and has sent photos for clarity.
  13. Here's to a new log! I am starting the Kate Cory now, a solid hull 1:64 scale model from Model Shipways. The hull came in excellent shape with only minor re-shaping to get down to the final measure. The hardest part was the bulwark thinning, which they recommend a chisel to carve down. I used a Dremel Tool.... Wear a mask if you try this, as basswood in the lungs is a bit unhealthy ;-) The sterm of the ship needed the most wood removal and reshaping. That also prompted me to use a Dremel sanding drum, which worked swiftly. With some hand sanding afterwards, the whole thing is coming along nicely. I used a smaller chisel to square off the deck levels and trim the bulwarks closer to the deck. Next I am going to work on the deck bevel and do some fine sanding to the exterior. I want to add a shiny coat of varnish or something to make the coppered portion stick better... raw wood is a no-go for self adhesive copper tapes it turns out, as a simple experiment shows that smooth wood just lets the tape peel off. Testing is good. ~johnb
  14. Started my 1st ship kit this weekend. The Sultana in 1:64 scale by Model Shipways. This a solid hull kit, so I had some sanding and carving to do so that the supplied templates fit properly. The carving was required on both the inside and outside of the bulwarks to achieve the correct scale thickness. At an early stage, my "carving" turned into something more akin to gouging, so I turned to my xacto knife with a #11 blade and actually found it easier than using my chisels, which I couldn't seem to get a sharp edge on, even after minutes on the honing stone. Note the repaired area in the front (sorry- still don't know my nautical terms)...I had already sanded the outside of the hull up to my stopping point that I had marked, THEN I started carving the inside of the bulwarks to the required thickness. That is when I cracked the thin basswood in a couple of places. At least the breaks were clean, so I salvaged the pieced, used thin super glue, and carefully and quickly put them back in place. I dared not try sanding the area yet, but it will be my next step now that the glue has had a day to dry. Hopefully, my damage control will not show up later, as this hull will be painted.
  15. I have a small scale Sterling kit (about 1/80th, rather than the large RC kit) of the Emma C Berry, that I got so I can display this 2 masted version with the MS 1/32nd single masted one. She was built with the single mast, and several years later, converted to a 2 masted schooner. She sailed in this configuration, until donated to the Mystic Seaport museum, who restored her back to the as build setup. My question is how to reinforce the soft balsa solid hull. I know that such hulls dent and crack easily, and want to add some type of "substance" to toughen the surface. I'm looking for something tougher than regular paint.
  16. Greetings, one and all. We have visitors here for the summer, including my grand daughter Cricket (aka Kimber, but Cricket will suffice). Some of you may remember her from a couple of years back assisting with my Harriet Lane build (see the post here for a "then" view http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/48-harriet-lane-by-trippwj-model-shipways-1144-scale/?p=747). Well, after landing here in Maine late last night, then driving the 2.5 hours to our home, she asked if she could help build a ship model. Well, since none of the ones I am working on are at a stage where she could dig in, I offered her the opportunity to build her own ship model. She accepted, and has begun work on a Phantom that has already had the hull shaped by her uncle. Rechristened the Elsa, she is now underway! So, here is where we are as of just now: Hull faired, she has sanded it thoroughly and just applying the primer. I am hoping to keep her interested and moving along on this build - we have 6 weeks to get some good progress done!
  17. I am curious if anyone have carved or created a solid hull ship out of a block of wood? This would be similar to what you find in some of the MS kits like the Phantom or Sultana. What are the best power tools and steps to be able to accomplish this? Thanks JB
  18. This is not only my first wood model sailboat I’ve built, it is also my first build log so bear with me. I had always been fascinated with models and built numerous plastic ones as earlier as ten years of age. In fact my very first model, a B-36 “Peacemaker” was built by my father and given to me when I was just 7 or 8 years old. I think that was his first and only model he ever made. I suppose that’s when the bug bit. I always chose the more complicated ones so I ended up making WWII military ships. The cars and planes seem to me to be too simple. I usually never looked at the instructions and was able to put them together without too much of a problem. I think all I had was a pair of tweezers for tools. My models neat and clean but weren’t painted. I let the color of the plastic provide all the realisim. As I got older I started to paint. As I look back on it they probably weren’t great models but I had fun. Most if not all ended up being blow up with firecrackers. Hey, I was a kid! I graduated to the Guillows scale balsa and tissue paper planes and built them as static models. They were fragile and over the years they too met their demise. All this is leading up to my very first adult build, the Model Airways Albatross D.Va, a WWI German fighter; a “museum quality model.” It’s the plane that the Red Baron got most of his kills in. I chose that kit because it had the most number of parts for the fighter plane kits being offered. To build the kit, I started to accumulating materials, tools, etc., and a lot of what I purchased I bought from Model Expo. During one of those buying sprees, Model Expo had a deal whereby if you spent X amount of dollars they gave you a free model kit. I received the Mini Mamoli schooner Evergreen. According to the box cover this is a circa 1920’s British racing yacht. This particular kit was offered to customers by Model Expo for around $30 in 2006-7, but I haven’t seen it since nor have I been able to find anything about the actual boat on the Web. After completing the Albatross, I was a novice when it came to knowing the ins and outs of a sailing craft. I didn’t know the nomenclature, nautical terms, the mechanics of how a sail boat operates, etc., but I jumped into the water so to speak and started the kit January 2008. This would be my training wheels project for I had spied my next project even before I started this one. I wanted to build the Mamoli Rattlesnake. The Evergreen kit had the bear minimum of instruction and in some cases the picture on the box did not match what was in the box. Even some of the instruction illustrations contradicted each other. The final product as shown on the box cover left something to be desired which I shall explain in the build log.

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