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Found 6 results

  1. Just out of curiosity, I was wondering how kit makers are able to provide pre-spiled planking. I have just received one such Russian kit for a longboat in card, and have seen others (such as Chuck's longboat) with laser-cut pre-spiled planks. Is this done with some computer software, or is it that when making a pre-production model the spiled planks are carefully traced, or that paper is laid on the frames or shell to achieve the same outlines? Tony
  2. I am about to order some sheets of wood for my upcoming build, which will be planked using the spiling method. My kit came with first-layer planks that are 5 mm wide, and second-layer planks that are 4 mm wide. I want to order enough material, so I'm wondering how much wider my raw material should be in order to properly cut out the curved planks. I have heard some people say that they used planks that were 50% wider than the originals, but this still seems a little narrow to me. Can anyone give me some advice as to what width I should be ordering, based on the widths supplied with the kit
  3. Hello, everyone! I've been taking some time to read up on all the planking tutorials offered here, and I'm trying to conceptually apply the techniques that I'm learning to my first build, which will begin in a week or two. I believe I understand the planking process in theory, but I've noticed that, with the exception of the "Hull Planking Techniques for Beginners" guide (http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/plankingprojectbeginners.pdf), most of the guides seem to describe a technique in which each individual plank is spiled to fit the lined-off sections on the bulk
  4. So, I've made the decision to spile all the planks for my upcoming build, as I love the look and fit of spiled planks. I'll basically be cutting each plank from a piece of sheetwood, by hand. While I will be using masking tape to trace the curve of the last plank in order to trace out my spiled plank, I'm still going to need a way to smoothly connect the dots that mark the widths of the proposed plank at each bulkhead on the other side, to complete the outline of the plank. Many people use's a set of ship's curves for this purpose, but I've been looking at the ACU-ARC adjustable curve ruler
  5. I just finished the first and only layer of planking on my Fair American. This being my first attempt at hull planking, I am very happy with the outcome. I used the 3/16" x 1/16" basswood strips supplied with the kit. The results can be seen here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10334-fair-american-by-captainjerry-model-shipways/page-3 This hull has a lot of sheer and a fair amount of drag. The distance from the keel to the wales is much greater at the stern than it is at the stem so it is clear that the planking will need to taper toward the bow, There are a few rules t
  6. I'm trying to absorb the tutorials about planking, and having trouble wrapping my head around of couple of the concepts. For starters - With a kit, you're probably given planking material - let's say it's a narrow width of about 1/4 inch. If you're working a hull where almost every plank needs to be curved in order to lay flat on the bulkheads, doesn't that render much, if not all, that material useless? I can't really believe that's the case, yet it seems to me that you'd have to cut most planks by hand out of a much wider sheet of lumber. What am I missing? I'm certainly not arguing
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