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Found 46 results

  1. Hi all, As my Rattlesnake will likely take a while, I decided to work on a kit at the same time. I was recently given a already started Syren. Sweet gift 😊!! Some much beautiful models on this forum, I will try to do it justice. Here is the current state.
  2. I hope there is room for yet another Syren build log. I don't own any power tools apart from a dremel and a drill, so I'm curious to see how I progress on this build. I also hope I can keep up with the great builds I have seen on this forum. This is my second kit and first build log. First was an Artesania Latina's Virginia 1819 which I completed a few months ago. I'm sure everyone here has seen it but here are some photos of the Syren kit (please let me know if have not selected the right resolution, I took these on my phone and uploaded them here without any size modifications): I started organizing the parts by checking the parts list and labeling everything: I already have a few questions before starting the build 😅: 1) I got wood belaying pins instead of brass due to shipment issues from China. What's the general consensus on which is the better material? 2) Are the number of parts in the part list more than what is required in the build? The reason I ask is because I am missing a few 3/32” Single Blocks out of the 310 total which is mentioned on the list.
  3. Hi All! Well, as promised, I decided to start my next ship after a brief hiatus following the launch of my HMS Sultana. But...I decided to follow other folks who jumped into the USS Syren! It really seemed like the best choice for a number of reasons. - The Sultana gave me a good base for my skill set, but the Syren will expand on it in a step wise manner (Gaff rigged schooner to a more complex Brig) - The Syren and Sultana are built at the same scale, giving me a bit more confidence in applying what I learned building the Sultana - The Syren will be my first plank on bulkhead (POB), and represents a new skillset I have yet to really develop - namely planking - There are a lot fo great completed build logs on the Syren here...so lots of immediate knowledge from other modelers just a click away - The practicum written Chuck Passaro for the USS Syren is priceless! I work a lot, and during my Sultana build the various 'breathers' I took did not slow me down, since the practicum gave me a mental placeholder and seamless way to pick up where I left off without breaking stride. (In other words, the practicum I think really aids those modelers who often need to step away for weeks or months occasionally!) So...it's from here that I will start my new Syren build. Moving on...
  4. I have recently started to work on the US Brig Syren from Model Shipways. I just say these instructions by Chuck Passaro are too notch. I am currently working on the rabbit as seen in the photos.
  5. Hi, my name is Thomas Gahm. My build log disappeared as so many others during the recent crash, and I just try to reconstruct as much as I can. Bulkheads and filler blocks are being glued in place. Gun ports are framed and the fairing of bulkheads is finished. Planking of the upper part of the hull with bass wood strips. The strips were selected for homogeneous color and texture. Treenailing using the wood filler based method described by Chuck in the instruction book. During my last ship model build (Anfora kit Ictineo II) the combination of the applied wood stain and the slight fuzziness of the treenail hole edges led to a larger treenail appearance than initially intended. To avoid this effect I drilled holes which were slightly smaller than the intended treenail size of 0.5mm and I opened them up with a needle of a slightly larger diameter (0.53mm). This led to well defined, round holes with sharp edges, which once filled with wood filler gave me the intended treenailing effect. Planking of the lower hull with bass wood strips. As this part of the hull will be covered later by copper sheaths I did not particularly select the wood strips for texture or color. Finished hull planking. Lower part of hull planking. Two brass pipes were buried in the keel to allow for the possibility to mount the model later via two brass carriers inserted in these pipes. If these mounts should not be needed the holes can be covered up via the false keel. Stern view of the Syren. Mounting the Syren name turned out to be a bit tricky due to the small size of the photo etched letters. The following method worked for me: I painted the letters (white) while they were still attached to the photo etch grid. After separating them from the brass grid I arranged them to form the name “SYREN” on a sticky tape mounted on a flat piece of wood with the sticky side up. Once I was satisfied with the arrangement of the letters I covered them with a second piece of transparent tape with the sticky side towards the letters. After turning the whole arrangement upside down so that the first tape was on top and the second tape underneath the letters I removed the first tape while carefully making sure that the letters did not come loose from the second tape. Now all that remained to do was to apply some superglue to the uncovered letter backs and transfer the name as a whole in its final arrangement to its destination on the stern. The use of a transparent tape allowed for precise positioning. Once the letters were glued to the hull the tape could be removed. Building of the stern transom. To form the stern transom I modeled it first with a piece of paper which I then used to cut out the wooden (bass wood) counterpart. This was then soaked in hot water and bent to its final shape in a jig. The formed transom is glued in place. Finished transom. Front view of the Syren. The planks are stained with a mixture of 1 part Minwax Golden Oak and 2 parts Minwax Natural wood stain. Stern view of the Syren. Planking of the deck using selected basswood strips. The planks were tapered towards the stern. Finished deck planking with waterways. I painted the locations of the future gratings black to prevent the possibility of the deck planking to be seen through the openings of the gratings. The deck was stained with Minwax Natural wood stain. Stern view of the deck with treenailing. Plank nibbing. Deck view.
  6. I received this kit as a gift. Very excited about it. Here are pics of the box & contents. Pre-reading over the first part of the instructions. Everything I've done before has been more simplified so I know this one will take me longer but I am ready to dive in!
  7. Hej, it's not that I wanna stop the build of my Sherbourne, it's just that there is so much detailstuff to do, and I can't concentrate on that very good atm. So I decided to start the build of the USS Syren and switch, depending on my mood, between these builds I could complete chapter 1 today. Knee of the head: My babys together And the mermaid Cheers, Dirk
  8. QUEEN ANNE BARGE (An Build Log by-eth CaptainSteve) – SYREN SHIP MODEL COMPANY – 1 parteth to 24 Directed, produced and writ-eth by Capta… (“Hey-eth !! They get-eth the idea !! Can we jus’ be a-movin’ along already ??”) Some time back, CaptainSteve didst purchase one o’ Chuck’s fine Queen Anne Barge kits. “I didst buy-eth it,” Our Hero started, “wi’ the intention o’ giving it to me Dad to construct-eth.” Indeed-eth, CaptainSteve’s father didst make-eth good beginnings unto his Barge. The futtock pieces hadst all been fixed most properly in place to the bulkhead frameworks, and the keel piece hadst been-eth constructed. “Except-eth,” Our Hero was to begin-eth this log, “the keel pieces were most incorrect.” ‘Twouldst seemeth that the keelson were not aligned most properly along the centre of the keel pieces, as intended by Mr Passaro. Thusly, the rabbet be non-existent in parts, un-centred in some, and too big in others. And so he had to commence-eth by applying copious amounts o’ Isopropyl. “The keel didst need to be re-done-eth !!”, CaptainSteve exclaim-ethed. Fortunately, his father had saved-eth all o’ the various bits and pieces and didst collect-eth them. “And so”, as always, Our Hero were to go-eth on, “thence I didst take-eth steps to be assuring that all o’ the pieces were-eth on-hand.” To do so, Our Hero didst spot-glue-eth the various delicate lasering sheets unto pages o’ printer paper fer safe-keeping. Whilst CaptainSteve was able to find almost all of the pieces to filleth the blank spaces, there were some gaps … “I be a-hopin’ that those missing pieces be not all that important”, he didst say-eth. But, secretly, Our Hero were a-crossing his fingers most furtively. Meanwhile, since this kit were originally be meant for his father to build-eth, CaptainSteve didst return-eth the carving pieces from the kit … “That be me Dad, CaptainBruce,” he didst state-eth most proudly. “At the least, they be-eth his four score year old hands a-wielding a tool to carve-eth out the scrollwork pieces fer his Barge.” Indeed-eth, Our Hero and his father have already devised a plan for the scrollwork. “It be a most spectacular plan o’ our own design,” CaptainSteve were to state-eth. “But there be more on that latterly,” he didst concludeth, most conspiratorially.
  9. Newbie (who has already pestered Chuck and Alexy offline!)... My question is about how to "finish" a natural thread rope (I've learned you can't melt it!) so that the ends don't unwind. Apologies it is a long post but the context is a little unusual. Full disclosure - The project is not for a model ship but a hand made 3 inch high miniature brass drum where I have made every single component by hand including the tube and painting. All that remains is the rope. (Photo of drum below with horrid fuzzy "off the shelf" rope),. its just that this forum is THE FORUM for rope making so I hope you don't mind the newbie /outsider post I've seen Chuck's Syren Ship rope and it is so tight. Amazing. And I immediately thought to buy his rope walk. But constrained space at home means I couldn't have a long rope walk and I as I need to make a batch for each drum that is about 3.5m long. So I've bought a Domanoff Planetary rope walk and having lots of fun (And frustration) trying to make some decent rope. I've read lots of really helpful posts about different manufacturers (DMC, Gütenberg), different thread sizes, left lay/right lay, threads/strands/ropes/cables... how it is all about experimentation etc but I am still struggling to make a) tight scaled rope to the size I want and b) how to get a really tight rope that when I cut it does not unwind. its all quite overwhelming as a newbie! I am sure also that much of it is about how I am using the Domanoff (and Alexey has been super helpful but I can't keep pestering him!) I am guessing it has to do with either the left/right lay or the speed of the Planetary rope walk but I am struggling. And would be very grateful if anyone out there (especially if using DMC ecru 10 or DMC ecru 20 on a planetary rope walk) could check my logic. MY PROCESS/LOGIC I want to make a rope about .85mm to 1mm thick, so under Chuck's guidance am experimenting with DMC 10 and DMC 20 crochet thread. For 1mm rope, I use DMC 10 Cebelia crochet thread, I mount 3 bobbins on the Domanoff Planetary rope walk (as I want 3 strand rope), and set the control to lay the rope to the right, adjusting the drive, take-up and traverse to try and get as tight a twist as possible. Q1. Should this have been to the left, as DMC Cebelia is already laid to the right? 3. After passing through the Main components, The Domanoff requires you to wind the 3 threads around the take up spool and then tie it off. This means that the very end of the ropes are not twisted and when you finally unwind the rope you have made to put in on another spool, the rope ends are loose. (see 2 images below) Q2. Am I doing something wrong at this stage about how I lay or tie off the thread? How do you "finish" the ends of a rope made from cotton rather than polyester? Q3. Would be better off making a Cable? Ie making 3 ropes of 3 strands using a smaller thread size such as 60? (assuming then that I need to alternate the lay between the strands and then the ropes to get a "Self tightening "twist
  10. I've just made my first rope on my new Syren Rope Rocket and thought I'd share my experiences. First thing to say is that I was delighted with the result. I'd had a little previous experience with the more basic 'handraulic' version from Model Expo so I had some idea how to make rope, but even so I was surprised just how well my first efforts turned out. The line on the left was my first effort - three single strands of the thread Chuck supplied with the kit producing 10' of 0.67mm/0.026" rope. The one on the right has 9 strands of the same thread. You can put multiple strands on the Rope Rocket, so I tried 3 strands between each pair of hooks. Apart from a minute or two more to set up, it takes no longer to produce 9 strand than 3 strand material. The resulting rope was just over 1.2mm/0.047". A few suggested Do's & Dont's from my experience so far: Do watch Chuck's videos (on the Syren website and YouTube). They're excellent, and I learned more from them than umpteen written descriptions of rope making. Do take the time to clean off the laser char and varnish the headstock and tailstock. The cherry is a fine wood and it would be a shame not to bring out the best in it. Don't do what I did, and varnish the ropewalk after assembly. I did this, and despite my best efforts I gummed up some of the moving parts. Easily sorted, but avoidable. It would have also been much easier to varnish the parts before assembly, but I was too impatient! Also don't get varnish on the underside of the assemblies, or if you do clean it off. I've found a lot of the art of rope making lies in getting a feel for how the headstock or tailstock wants to 'walk' along the table as you spin up the ropewalk, and to do that they need to be able to slide freely. Do make sure you've got some very small hex keys (aka allen keys). I struggled to find one for the very smallest set screws. Until I eventually found one (1.3mm) I had to make do with a jeweller's screwdriver (the size used for adjusting the tiny screws in spectacles) but I wouldn't recommend that as it might distort the set screws. Do follow Chuck's advice in the instructions and use a strong epoxy or a CA with good gap filling properties to stick the eye screws into the brass tubes in the headstock. This is the only part of the construction that makes me a bit nervous, as the fit is quite loose and the eye screws come under considerable tension. I've had no problems so far, but eventually I might replace the tube/eye screw arrangement with a single length of solid brass, with one end fashioned into a hook. Incidentally, like Chuck I opened up the eye screws slightly, making it much easier to set up the thread. However unlike Chuck I opened them before fixing them in place, as I was worried that too much twisting with pliers might weaken the glue joint. Do check that everything spins freely when assembled. I found that the big central gear in the headstock tended to rub slightly against the washers under the smaller gears. This might be a result of some mistake on my part, but its something others might want to check for themselves. I found that an appropriately sized washer glued to the face of the headstock brought the big gear out just far enough to engage nicely with the small gears. Do watch Chuck's videos again! In summary, I'm delighted with the Rope Rocket and the rope it produces and would highly recommend it. I'm off now to experiment with different threads, 4-ply rope & etc. I've also got Chuck's Serv-o-Matic and am lookking forward to my first foray into serving. Derek
  11. All, Back to ships! With so many excellent builds of the Syren here on the site, I have decided to put my skills to the test and give her a whirl. I'll need all the help I can get, as this will be my first plank on bulkhead build. Looking through the other logs, I can tell there will be more scratch work than I have done to date, too. I am really looking forward to the journey! All parts have been accounted for. Plucking out the keel board, the very first order of business is to straighten it out. There is a slight curve to it, so I gave it a quick soak in water and have clamped it flat. We'll see how it looks in a couple of days when dry. The curve is slight, so filler blocks would very likely be able to set it right, but I like to make things a little easier on myself. Making those filler blocks is something I am not quite sure that I am looking forward to doing. Well, I can say this: my woodworking skills are going to get a workout! Onward! ~john
  12. Greetings everyone, and welcome to my first 'concurrent' build log, as I begin the semi-kit (or semi-scratch, depending on your point of view) build of the revenue cutter Cheerful, from Syren Ship Model Company (Chuck Passaro). I've chosen to place this log in the kit build section, since I am using laser cut parts from Syren for the 'back bone' - the former, keel, and bulkheads, as well as all the mini-kits that are available for the ship. This log is starting due to a set of materials that were put on sale in the trade section of this website, and I couldn't resist grabbing it, even though I have far too many kits on the shelf right now. Included in my purchase was everything that Syren produces for this ship except the new pump kit, along with what was apparently a custom wood order from Crown Timberyard with a Holly deck package and boxwood planking strips. As with my other current build log, the Picket Boat #1, this first post will be primarily for an index. The actual log begins in post #2 to follow. Section 1 - Constructing the backbone (former, keel, bulkheads). 1. The beginning - the former (false keel). 2. The keel. 3. Bulkhead start (side trip - beginning the windlass). 4. Bulkheads all on (side trip - windlass part 2). 5. Gunport sills - starboard side.
  13. I've just had my first go with the Syren Serv-o-Matic. As with the Rope Rocket that I used for the first time last week, I cleaned off the laser char and applied a couple of coats of varnish. I really felt this was worth the trouble, to bring out the fine cherry. As with the Rocket however, I made the mistake of assembling the components before varnishing them. I was too impatient, and assembled both machines before realising it was then harder to apply the varnish - especially without gumming up the moving parts. I should have followed Chuck's instructions, which as usual are comprehensive and well illustrated. A couple of points I would emphasise from my own experience. First, it really is vital to ensure all the gears move freely - to the extent that they almost feel loose and sloppy. If you watch Chuck's short Youtube video you'll get an idea of how everything should move, powered by just one finger. Another point Chuck makes in the instructions that I would echo is the importance of getting the right tension in the rope being served - too loose and it is difficult to get the serving thread to lay on properly; too taut and the rope will pull the handles in to the machine ends and make the gears too stiff to turn freely. I quickly found there is a knack to serving. It's not super difficult, but it does need practice. I experimented on a piece of light coloured rope for contrast, which tends to highlight the mistakes. I'm not sure how easy it is to see in the picture, but the serving starts out a bit gappy and lumpy on the lefthand side, then gets better towards the right as my technique improved. Also, I should have used a less 'hairy' serving thread. Being hand powered, it's a simple matter to put mistakes right; as soon as you see a gap, or you overlap the serving thread, you just reverse direction to before the error and then continue. In summary, another useful addition to the workshop which I'm looking forward to using in conjunction with the Rope Rocket. Derek
  14. Today I glued the parts of the keel of my little model together. To glue the apron, the rising wood and the deadwood centrally on the keel I build a simple jig.
  15. 1/2” Scale Queen Anne Style Royal Barge 1705 Syren Ship Model Company Catalogue # SKU QABK01 Available from Syren Ship Model Company for $225.00 A royal barge is a ceremonial barge that is used by a monarch for processions and transport on a body of water. Royal barges are currently used in monarchies such as the United Kingdom, Sweden and Thailand. Traditionally the use of royal barges was of high importance in southeast Asian monarchies such as Siam, Burma, Brunei, Riau and Cambodia. The River Thames in London was a regular thoroughfare for the Sovereign until the middle of the 19th century, on state occasions or between the Royal Palaces of Windsor, Westminster, Hampton Court, Greenwich and the Tower of London. In the UK, there is currently no State Barge in active service, but until 2017 the Royal Nore, owned and maintained by the Port of London Authority, was used whenever a member of the Royal Family travelled on the river Thames for an official engagement. Royal barges are typically elegant in style, and those built in the period of Queen Anne were still striking, despite their relative simplicity in relation to other vessels of the same stature. Resplendent in ornate carvings and decorative panels, these barges provided a comfortable and stylish method for the monarch to move between their residences and their courts. Edit courtesy of Wikipedia The kit This is my first experience of dealing with Syren Ship Model Company, and of course, the Royal Barge kit is designed and produced by them. My kit took around 9 days to reach UK shores from New Jersey, via USPS and Royal Mail. Of course, I got hit by the obligatory import duty, but it wasn’t too bad. After paying their ransom, I picked up the package a couple of days ago and now spent some time flicking through the contents. The kit itself is packaged into an extremely sturdy corrugated cardboard box with tabs that release so you can flip up the lid. With the lid open, the plans are the first thing seen, and these are gently curved over the components underneath, along with a contents checklist which has been manually marked to show the contents are indeed in there. A nice system that gives peace of mind to the buyer. I’ll look at the plans further down the review. With these lifted out, some very soft packing foam is included so stop the contents rattling about. Inside the box, there are two robust clear sleeves which contain all of the timber planks, three narrower sleeves with strip and dowel, a card box with resin, wood, wire and black fishing line, a length of thick black cartridge paper with laser-cut elements, a packet with friezes for the interior of the barge plus some decorations for the sweeps, and two flags. Onto the sheet timber. Syren has produced all of the main parts from a superbly milled cherry wood, and the finish is silky smooth. The quality of the wood is also amongst some of the best I’ve seen since I started in this hobby almost 20yrs ago. The colour, which I hope I’ve captured in most of my photos, is a very pale golden colour which looks quite muted. The grain, as you would expect, is very fine. Laser-cutting quality is also on a par with the best kits I’ve seen, with almost zero heat effect, and small tags that only just hold the parts in position. Edge scorching is also very minimal, and it’ll only take a few swipes with some sandpaper to remove them totally. You will of course need to do that thoroughly as this model is only partially planked, as it the style of barge models of the era Circa 1700. Cherry was also chosen because it best replicates the colour of the wood used on these models and allows the kit to be affordable too. Also among the thicker sheets of cherry wood is a two-part building jig which needs to be assembled. The zig-zag edging of this will make the job easier. Each frame slot is also numbered so there’s less chance of human error. When the model is later released from this jig, it will be modified to accept the keel for the remaining construction, using more supplied parts. This is probably the time to explain roughly how this model actually does assemble, and I’ll add a few images here to illustrate things. Each of the frames has an infill piece still attached, and this is what will slot into the building jig. When the outside planks are added, this can later be carefully cut away to reveal the interior of the barge which then needs to be fitted out. Before slotting those frames to the jig though, you will need to add the floor frames. The position for these is finely engraved onto the waste material within each frame. You can use a straight edge along this and then fit the floor frame up to this mark. This way there’s no reason to use pencil on the parts faces themselves. This technique is superbly illustrated here by Rusty, in his MSW build log: https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/17889-queen-anne-barge-by-rustyj-syren-ship-model-124/ Looking at the timber, you can see that just about every shape is either cut with laser or engraved for reference. All planks for this are supplied spiled, need bevelling from the laser-etched line. These planks are supplied in suitably thin sheets of cherry, and for extra clarity, each sheet is labelled PORT or STARBOARD. The keel is built up from scarfed sections, as the real thing would be. Very impressive. The rabbet is created my inserting thinner keel parts on the inner edge of the keel, creating a recess into which the limited planking will sit. When it comes to the thwarts, these are also laser-engraved to create the stepped edges to them. Also included with the laser-cut parts are the mounting pedestals (you just need a nice piece of polished/varnished timber to use as plinth), and also the sweep (oar) racks so those can be decoratively mounted on the plinth, adjacent to the barge. Now, this model has some ornate and intricate carvings adorning it and these are provided as laser-cut items for which you can try your hand at carving. Does that sound scary? If so, don’t worry because also available for this kit is a set of resin-cast carvings which are more or less all ready to be attached and provided as an upgrade set which you can buy either at the same time as the kit, or later if you struggle with the boxwood blanks. The resin parts are supplied in a small white box to protect them. With this sample, they were supplied directly in that small box that sits within the main package, and the extremely delicate filigree parts were packed into two zip-lock wallets. Very little clean-up is required with these, and to give them a nice natural appearance, weathering powders are suggested. You can also airbrush them and apply an enamel-based wash which would bring out the details superbly. It’s all a matter of preference. These carvings include the scrollwork for the port and starboard side, the quarter-based figurines and the Royal monograph. They really are superb to look at. Other parts were included inside this box. These include some extra boxwood parts for things like the internal panelling that the friezes will sit within. Extras are included in case you screw up. There is a length of wire and also some black 20lb fishing line that you will use to simulate the black nail heads on the planking. A length of resin-impregnated black card is also to be found in this kit, and like the timber, all parts are laser-cut. Parts here are provided for the keel banding and rudder straps etc. Three sheets of colour-printed paper are included that hold the parts for the friezes and the ornate decorations for the sweeps. These will need to be carefully cut out with a fresh blade and then attached to the model using a very dilute PVA or children’s glue stick. Two period flags are also included, printed on thin tissue paper and with good colour definition. Note the union flag, minus the diagonal red cross, which is of course accurate for 1705. I’m presuming the quadrant flag is either of the period or even related to the monarch of the period. It should be quite easy to make these drape realistically due to the thinness of the paper. Certainly easier than some of the materials some companies use for their flags. Two large plan sheets are included, clearly depicting construction in clean line drawings, and of course, the images are at full scale for any measurements you need to take. Please note that no instruction manual is included with this release as it helps to cut down on price. It also helps reduce weight for shipping. There are three manuals for this, in full colour PDF format, and these can be downloaded from the Syren Ship Model Company’s website. These are extremely comprehensive and beautifully describe the whole build process, including hints and tips for your project. Conclusion I’m not usually the sort of guy who gets enthused by barges and narrow/longboats etc. but the sheer beauty and ingenuity of this kit appealed to me instantly and I followed the kit development here on MSW. The kit is just exquisite, with beautifully milled timber and laser-cut parts, printed materials etc. The construction process has been made as easy as possible at every stage of construction with such things as the laser-shaped thwarts and planks that have been spiled ready for you to shape. An amazing kit, intelligently designed, and with the very best in materials. Syren has this model on sale for $225.00 and I think that represents excellent value for money for what will give many hours of building pleasure and a real ornate stunner for the display shelf! My sincere thanks to Syren Ship Model Company for sending this kit out for review on Model Ship World. To purchase directly, click the link at the top of this article.
  16. The Syren is the 1st kit that I chose rather than kits that chose me (by being for sale relatively inexpensively when I decided to try model ship building). This is almost true - I did select my starter kit but it was intended as a get my feet wet sort of project. There were a few reasons that the Syren was my choice. First and foremost were the recommendations here on MSW. Mr. Passaro’s elegant design and extensive documentation were a very strong draw. I like the idea of having clear detailed instructions as I learn the craft of model building. Secondly there are lots of terrific build logs for this ship. They serve well as an additional resource to help with interpretations, alternatives, and the inevitable problems that will arise. The craftsmanship shown in many of these logs is both daunting and motivating for a rookie builder like me. The community here on MSW is so supportive that the motivation aspect outweighs the trepidation at not being up to standard. Finally, I like appearance of the ship and will look forward to enjoying it both during the build and once it is completed.
  17. Well as else where mentioned I need to create a log. Actually I thought I already had an existing log. But I dug thru the logs back to 2013 when I was much more active. And I found a lot of logs from me by not this one. So here we go! First off I have been digging around for the pictures from the work I did up till now. But unfortunately what you see here is all I have.
  18. After considerable contemplation, I've decided on the US Brig Syren as my first build. I was thinking of getting my feet wet with the smaller English Longboat and English Pinnace kits. Then I found the Tigersteve and Blue Ensign build logs showing their fine work, especially the planking. Yikes! I got to thinking about that skill: I need something I can practice on so that it won't matter when I screw things up. Ah ha! The copper sheathed Syren! I can mangle the planks to my hearts content, slap on a coat of wood filler, sand it down, and no one will know the difference. Once I get good at it, I can order some hard maple (like Tigersteve did for the English Pinnace: see 30-Apr for the order list, 29-Sep for the results) and tackle the Longboat and Pinnace, where the planking is much more visible. "Wait!", you say. Statistics show that 90% of first time builders who tackle a Big Boat give up early and the other 50% don't finish either. "Au contraire", I respond, I'll go ahead and purchase all three kits. Some time after Chapter 5 - Hull Planking, when I hit the doldrums and get dejected with the thought of never ever getting done (copper plate number one thousand thirty two, one thousand thirty three, ...), I can amuse myself by puttering around on these two more manageable craft. Plus word gets back that the Syren's User Manual is terrific (with color pictures no less!). Now, having said all that, where did I put that order form ... Jonathan
  19. Well, I didn't expected I would come to this point. But here is my build log of the Syren. I feel a presentation of the kit is not necessary. Reklein and I are both members of PSSM, so this could be considered as a club build. Our President has already started the build but has had the bit at a stand still for a long time. I had started the kit, but the keel for BF was to warped and twisted to be used, even after two weeks of straightening. I even tried with the inserted bulkheads and filler blocks to get it straight"er" but to no avail. I contacted Mr. Mosko at ModelExpo via email and got a quick respons the following morning. I have shaped the bulkheads, put the templates together and will do other work while waiting for the new BF to arrive. The build jig is made and ready to go to. The current BF and bulkheads are just put together without glue and I am using them to bend the planking. Thought they could come to good use for that purpose. Lastly, I would like to extend a big thank you to all other members who has build Syren, as your logs will provide a lot of extra information needed for the build and how to avoid pit holes along the way. Now picture time
  20. Howdy all. My modeling time is currently in short supply thanks to my three-month-old baby. Even though I don’t have the time, energy or concentration to really dig into a model I’ve still had the urge to work on something. ANYTHING. I had recently purchased a Serv-O-Matic from Syren and the cherry it’s made of was so beautiful I decided to make it my project. I don’t think I need to do a review of the project as I see so many of them in use on various build logs, but I’ll just say to anyone debating about getting one – Get it! The quality is terrific, and Chuck’s service can’t be beat. Mine had a very minor issue when I received it and Chuck had it corrected wicked quick. I followed Chuck’s instructions and spent a goodly amount of time removing all the char from the pieces. Time consuming but worth it. I used a true sander as much as possible to avoid rounding the edges too badly. After sanding to 220 grit I assembled everything but did not affix the gears or end pieces. Then I rubbed in by hand a coat of 100% pure Tung oil, wiped off the excess after an hour or so and then repeated the oil coat the next day. After that I allowed the unit and all the pieces to sit in the brightest window of the house for about a week turning the pieces each day to make sure they got even coverage. As most of you probably know Cherry darkens and reddens naturally and that process can be sped up by exposing it to bright natural light. Once I figured the Tung oil was as cured as it was going to get (not really at all but it’ll at least stop seeping) I applied two coats of semi-gloss water based polyurethane with a careful sanding between coats. Lastly, after allowing the poly a week or so to cure I applied a coat of past wax to get that soft burnished look. So below you see the result of me turning what most people would do in a few hours into a two or three week project. In one of the pictures you can see an untreated piece of cherry which gives you an idea of just how much a little work will bring out the color and character of the wood.
  21. I have made a decision to purchase and build the US Brig Syren. My goal is to become a better Wood Model Ship Builder. Learn the craft, and improve my work. I started building wood ship models 4 years ago. I started by building from scratch. With any wood and materials I could scrounge up. I completed 2 Commercial Fishing Boats. However, It was a very difficult experience for me. I became disabled, and have problems with spatial interpretations, reading, writing, and hand coordination. Four of my previous attempts to build a model ended up in the wood stove. The finished Fishing Boats are rough, and somewhat resemble folk art. My next project was a scratch built replica of the Armed 14 Gun 1801 Russian Merchant Neva. It took me 6 months working all most full time to build the Neva (over 600 hours). The Neva is a little rough, and I made many mistakes. Many of the parts I built for the Neva were built out of scale. The rigging was my own invention! To my astonishment the Sitka Historical Society took the Neva and will display it in the new Russian America Museum which opens this summer. I have many pictures of building the Neva. But, I did not set up a Build Log. I was afraid that the quality of my work was poor, and worse yet, I was afraid I would abandon my attempt. After working on the Neva, I felt ready to try a official kit. For the past six months I have been working on the Caldercraft HMS Snake. I must have gotten a older kit that had been bumped around a lot. Some of the wood was in very poor condition. Cracked and chipped. Some of the metal parts had broken pieces. So I tweaked the model a little. I have been struggling with the HMS Snake. Being disabled, I am finding it hard to read the provided directions. My spatial interpretation problems makes viewing plans very difficult. I still can't rig a canon. That is why I have chosen to build the US Brig Syren. I am impressed with the directions I downloaded, and the Build Logs I have read. I am hoping to become a better builder. The Syren is scheduled to arrive in 10-14 days. Which really means 14-21 days to Sitka Alaska. I'll start this log officially, when I start unpacking. At which time, the HMS Snake will be taken out of Dry Dock and put in storage. Photo's of my past mistakes attached.
  22. Hi I'm looking for Chuck Passaro's build log of the Syren. The link at Model Expo brought me here and I can't seem to find it on this site. Thanks.
  23. Hello, everyone. I am a semi-retired 67-year old Nevadan and have built Model Airways model aircraft in the past. I am embarking on the Model Shipways brig, Syren. It is, to say the least, an ambitious project but it's also best suited for my tastes and skill sets. I have pored over the threads herein and spent a couple of weeks (literally!) reading the manual provided by Chuck Passaro (my hero). One question looms: Is there anything in particular that you can recommend, guide or even warn me about when building this model? Please let me know! I am starting the beading lines and bevels in the bulkheads, et al. today. I move slowly. Thanks!
  24. I'm just starting the Model Shipways brig Syren. I spent 3 weeks reading thru the Chuck Passaro practicum and feel ready to go. I pre-fitted bulkheads onto the former and immediately spotted a problem. When I line up the laser guidelines on the BF with those on the bulkheads, the "tee" intersection for the deck is not always on point. Sometimes, the bulkhead is higher, lower or dead-even with the deck line on the bulkhead former. So ... what is the proper way to compensate for these "misalignments"? Any advice would be appreciated.
  25. Hello everybody. I’m Hervie. Glad to join this company of model builders. Why the Syren? Because of the excellent manual and because of the build logs found in this forum. I studied them all. Thank you members for your efforts in documenting your builds. For those of you unfamiliar with Chuck Passaro's excellent manual, here is a link to it: http://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=MS2260 Couple things about myself: I’m a retired software engineer here in Silicon Valley. In addition to model building I write apps for the Apple App Store. Since retirement I’ve built four model ships, one after the other, and all of the same ship: the Bluenose from Artesania Latina. (I know this is unusual, but like Steve Jobs said: “The journey is the reward”). I gave them away as presents. That was eight years ago, and since then nothing on the modeling front. Now I resurrected all my tools and am about to embark on the Syrus. I’m very excited about it. About this log —————— I'll skip the unboxing of the kit. Others have done a good job at displaying the contents. I'll concentrate in describing the hurdles whose solutions I did not find in other logs. Possibly because those hurdles may be trivial for others to solve. Any advise will be greatly appreciated. I am creating this log first as a document on my Mac, then transferring it to the forum log. My tools ———— Aside from the regular clamps, cutters, dremels, measuring tools etc, I’ll be using four power tools. 1) a MicroLux Mini Tilt Arbor Table Saw from MicroMark. I use it with a vernier adjustable rip fence for very accurate rip cuts. (also available from MicroMax) 2) A single speed belt/disk sander. Big and clunky, but very useful, particularly the disk sander. 3 ) A scroll saw. Of the three the least useful for model building, but good to have when need it. 4) A pen sander from MicroMark. Don’t have any experience with this tool but others said is pretty useful. The kit ——— The kit arrived in good shape, promptly, and apparently complete. I was not expecting some parts to be so small, like the rigging blocks whose size is not apparent in the photos. Rigging is going to be a challenge. After reading about the misadventures of others with warped Bulkhead Formers (BF) and fragile bulkheads, I checked my BF and was relieved to find it very robust, with clear and precise laser cuts. However the relief was suspended when I discovered it to be slightly warped. I used a laser gadget to check for straightness since my glasses show everything curved. Chapter 2 of the manual mentions that any warp in the BF may disappear after gluing the filler blocks. Let’s hope. Anxious to check the bulkheads, I run into the first hurdle. How to separate them from The BF? The laser cuts are so fine that no blade can be inserted in them. So I came out with this solution: 1) Only two small solid wood areas keep each bulkhead attached to the BF. So for each bulkhead, with the scroll saw (any saw would do) I made two cuts on either side a the bulkhead terminating just above the respective solid areas: This resulted in the top part of the bulkhead to separate from the BF. 2) Following the contour of the bulkhead, I cut the solid wood area attaching the bulkhead to the BF: And voila! Removing all the bulkheads, stern post and rudder took about 1/2 hour. Not a single piece was damaged. The rabbet ————— I glued the rabbet to the BF in spite of the BF being curved. I bended the rabbet with the method described in the manual, but also with the assist of the electric plank bender tool. I am not known for my patience … bended rabbet strip: gluing the rabbet: For glue I used the original Tilebond. I was surprised about how quickly it sets, less than a minute. Centering the rabbet on the BF edge had to be done fast.. These are the glues I am using: Carving the BF from the bearding line to the edge of the rabbet. Since I’m not good at carving, I tried a portable Dremel with a drum sander at low speed. That worked well although the photo looks messy. Another view of the rabbet . The stem post was trimmed with the disk sander. This concludes chapter 1. Thanks for reading.

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