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Found 23 results

  1. Back to the small scale for a while. I bought this Tamiya kit for 9€. Like the German Z class kit of the same company it has two models. I'm going to built one including some PE from an ex eBay seller. Probably in light grey adding the seabed.
  2. This old 1:350 Tamiya 1:350 King George V kit has been in my possession a long time. Maybe 20 years or more, I forget. A short while back I took it out of storage from my attic and decided I would build it. Discovering that Pontos made a conversion set to build this model as the HMS Duke of York gained my interest because I had already finished the Scharnhorst and it's in my display cabinet. As you probably know, these two ships have significant combat history against each other. In December of 1943, the HMS Duke of York along with other British ships sank the Scharnhorst off the coast of Norway. In one salvo, the DoY destroyed the front main gun turrets of the Scharnhorst and everything went downhill from there for the ill-fated German Battleship. Here's my starting shot of what I'm working with. Even as old as this kit is, it's a testament to how well Tamiya kits are engineered for good fit. I am hoping it's going to turn out to be a nice model in the end. The Pontos set comes with five nice photo etch sheets, a heavy bag of turned brass gun barrels and ship's masts, and a large number of resin parts. In addition, it brings a wooden deck and a small sheet of dry transfers.
  3. Hello everybody! I've got an IJN mood - so I want to share some "progress" on a Yukikaze kit I've started nearly a decade ago. Base of the build is a very well known kit by Tamiya - a very high quality product I dare say. Add-on is a Lion Roar photo etch kit which also includes turned gun barrels and depth charges. Also there are couple Veteran sets - single- and triple-25mm auto cannons. Most of sub-assemblies were built in 2011 🙂 Here we go:
  4. Hello everybody, It occured to me today that when I posted the Hiei there was a request for me to put my next build, then said to be IJN Mikuma, into a build log again. Honestly, I had forgotten about it and build logs take time and I was busy so I wasn't able to do it but since the build is going slow paced, I've looked into the topic and was reminded of the request so hereby I'll try and log the rest of my build. I have been building on the ship for a month or 2 - 3 now I think, and it is going rather well. A lot of the superstructure stands, together with some etchwork, railings, aa guns and masts. The pictures are shared below, what is to come is this - Repairs on one of the main masts where the support girders of the PE set got lost and denting out some railings that I saw on pictures were dented - finishing superstructures - making the gun turrets - putting small brass strips over the deck - paintjob - rigging got a few doubts too about the paintwork, whether I'll mount the superstructure on deck and then start the paintwork, or whether I'll paint the subassemblies first and then the deck/hull before mounting everything together. Maybe anyone got some tips on this. For the model I use the following - IJN Mikuma Light cruiser 1/350 Tamiya - Infini 13mm and 25mm twin aa guns - veteran IJN deck equipment - Eduard Mikuma PE sets - Uschi rigging - Tamiya XF paints and AK wheathering. - Aber main gun barrels (155mm triples) I'll include more pictures when I finish next steps to provide some extra detail. kind regards and stay safe
  5. Greetings, As far as I can tell, I’m the only IJN Mogami build log on here. I decided to take this project on as I wrap up other projects which is very different from the stick and string models I usually like to build. I found this subject interesting because of the hybrid characteristics as an aircraft cruiser which she was converted into in 1944. Commissioned in 1935 and named after a river in Japan and was the lead ship of four of her self-named class of heavy cruisers. Served in numerous battles in World War II until she was sunk at the Battle of the Surigao Straight in October 1944. This is a 1/350 Tamiya kit and I’ll be using the Flyhawk detail photo etch kit. Below are some photos I’ve found, mostly courtesy of Wikipedia and my unboxing of the kit and PE details. Should be an interesting challenge. All the best, Joshua
  6. Hello, This is my first ever build log and my first ‘proper’ ship build attempt. Ive followed a few builds on here as research and to see how things go together so thought I’d show my build too. It will be a slow one I think as I’ll try give it a good go and also tough to find much info on Her except low res pics from far awayso it won’t be a super accurate one as I’ll just have to wing bits I don’t know about. I got this kit for lockdown and from someone that had cut a few bits off but hadn’t really done any building.
  7. Welp, My IJN Yukikaze arrived! So I'll start with the 'whole shebang' image of what I have to begin with! Keep in mind this is my first ship model, and the first time I've ever worked with PE parts! Wish me luck guys!
  8. I finished the Yahagi and now have started the Chikuma moments later literally.Some history..... Chikuma Country Japan Ship Class Tone-class Heavy Cruiser Builder Name Mitsubishi Heavy Industries Laid Down 1 Oct 1935 Launched 19 Mar 1938 Commissioned 20 May 1939 Sunk 25 Oct 1944 Displacement 15,200 tons standard Length 649 feet Beam 60 feet Draft 21 feet Speed 35 knots Crew 850 Armament 8x200mm, 8x130mm, 75x25mm anti-aircraft, 12x610mm torpedo tubes Chikuma was a Tone-class heavy cruiser built at Nagasaki by Mitsubishi. With her large seaplane capacity, long-range scouting missions fitted her well. She was a member of Sentai 6 (Sixth Squadrion) until transferred to Sentai 8 in Nov 1939. She participated in exercises and patrolled off southern China until the outbreak of the Pacific War. She participated in the attack on Pearl Harbor, the event that sparked off the war, as an escort to the fleet carriers; one of her seaplanes flew pre-strike reconnaissance mission over Pearl Harbor before the attack. Immediately after Pearl Harbor, she sailed for Wake Island to assist in the conquest there. During Japan's conquest of the South Pacific in the opening six months of the war, Chikuma played a part in many of the key events aside aircraft carriers. She was also present beside the carriers when they met their end at Midway in Jun 1942. On 24 Aug 1942 she participated in the Battle of the Eastern Solomons, and then on 26 Oct Battle of the Santa Cruz Islands, both off the Solomon Islands. In the latter action, she was moderately damaged by American dive bombers and was placed out of commission in Japan until late Feb 1943. In early 1944, she was transferred to Sentai 7. She participated in a cruiser raid into the Indian Ocean in Mar, then fought off the Mariana Islands in Jun. Off Philippines, she was attacked by submarine and aircraft on 23 and 24 Oct as she headed toward the eastern shore of the island of Samar; at the battle bearing the island's name, she helped in the sinking of escort carrier Gambier Bay, but was later seriously damaged by torpedoes. Destroyer Nowaki took on Chikuma's crew as Chikuma was abandoned. When Nowaki was later sunk, all but one of Chikuma's crew survived. https://ww2db.com/ship_spec.php?ship_id=37 I give you Chikuma next to the IJN Light Cruiser Yahagi....
  9. So I found a King George V on a local buy and sell site, came with a wooden deck and metal barrels at a good price. I know it's been done, Mr Rabbit and Kpnuts, and there are basically three iterations of HMS King George's Career, when she fought the Bismarck in '41, the '43 fit out then the '44 fit out. I want to do the '43 fit out as it hardly ever been done, the references are very obscure and I get to do camouflage and not strait grey. The Tamiya Kit is set for the 1945 fit out, having removed the aircraft and placed the ships boats amidships, but the Aftermarket Pontos is retrofitted for 1941. The thing is, the Pontos set gives you the ability to have an aircraft deck but the kit gives you no aircraft. Thus one has to buy a Walrus. The Tamiya kit has the stern square hatches omitted which need to be after - after market as Pontos ignored this gem. I got the new Infini Models RN Doors (he bloke who is Infini models designed this set when he worked for Pontos) as they are just magnificent. I also got some individual RN stanchions as I'm over one piece railings are I like to torture myself. I've ordered new Carley Floats (i'll have to scratch build the Flota nets) and an extra set of 20mm guns as there should be 38 of them all up. The Chap I bought the kit from had a Artwox deck which is suitable but the Pontos one is fairly clean which means I can add whatever configuration I want. I've spent a few weeks researching tis and the internet is just full of people who just do not check their references, as about 70% of the photos pro porting to be KGV are usually a sister ship. The Imperial War Museum has lovely photos which are correctly labeled and allow me to feel comfortable in my 1943 configuration. Welcome to build number 10 in 1/350.
  10. As I mentioned in my introduction, I am currently working on Tamiya's 1/350 Fletcher. As I'm genetically unable to simply build a kit as provided, I'm trying to build her as USS Thatcher DD-514, as she appeared ca. February 1944 after she was rebuilt at Mare Island. That requires some extra work, as the kit covers only the earliest (6?) Fletchers, which differed a little in their AA arrangement Thankfully, I could borrow a couple of the required parts from Trumpeter's 'The Sullivans' kit. Furthermore, I'm throwing in some aftermarket for additional excitement. Enough of the words for the moment, here she as she currently appears: There's still quite some way to go, apparently...
  11. This will be my first MSW build log “in plastic”. I first want to be clear that this build will be “out of the box”. There will be no aftermarket wood, PE, resin or brass. The purpose of this build is pure glue galore and using MSW to improve my weathering skills and try to do simple improvements on a cheap model. The Tamiya model is quite old and dates to 1980s, I think. I bought it cheaply a couple of years ago and have had in the stash ever since. The battleship HMS Prince of Wales had a short and dramatic active service period. HMS Prince of Wales took part in the battle of the Denmark Straits against Bismarck and Prinz Eugen, hosted the conference between Churchill and Roosevelt at Newfoundland and was tragically sunk by Japanese planes outside Malaysia, all this in period of less than seven months in 1941. Although I prefer wooden ship models, plastic has its charm. Building a ship in plastic brings me on a trip down the memory lane. My first model ship was a torpedo boat which had an electric motor driving the propeller. I played with it in the bathtub practicing torpedo attacks towards my younger brother. The second kit was a pirate’s ship in black plastic which I think I built in 1973 or 1974. I do not remember the manufacturer. I do not think it had an archetype from real life. It looked more like something from a Disney movie, but the model was very intriguing. One detail I remember was that it had shrouds with ratlines in injection moulded plastic. My third ship was Wasa by Airfix which I got for Christmas in 1975. Wasa was a lot more advanced than the previous pirate’s ship and had shrouds with ratlines in sheets of threaded material which you cut out with a pair of scissors. Wasa came with sails in creamy yellow thin and brittle plastic. At that time, I always followed the building instruction and meticulously used all the material included in the box although the model looked much better without the sails. All my friends at that time built Wasa and we compared our building results. Some of us did better than others. Next ship was HMS Victory which I got as a birthday present in 1976. I wanted the 1:180 Airfix version but was given a model in a slightly smaller scale from another manufacturer (Revell?) and thus probably cheaper than the big Airfix version. For some reason I seem to remember that Christmas presents used to be more lavish than the birthday presents. Another disappointment with my Victory was that many of the cannon ports of the hull were moulded closed. What is the point of building HMS Victory if you cannot see all the cannons? I remember my parents had a book about HMS Victory which I studied. It was in English, a language which I did not understand much of at that time, but in it was a picture indicating where Lord Nelson had stood when he was shot during the battle of Trafalgar. I painted a pool of blood on the deck of my model with Humbrol number 19 (bright red gloss) indicating the misfortune of Lord Nelson. My interest then turned towards ships from WW2. First, I built Admiral Graf Spee (Airfix), then HMS Nelson (Airfix) and finally Bismarck (Airfix). My first plastic modelling era ended with the build of Golden Hind (Airfix). This time I ignored using the creamy yellow sails. My fixation to the Airfix kits probably has to do with their fantastic box art of the 1970s. My inaccurate notion for Airfix kits from the 1970s being the pinnacle of plastic modelling was not changed until my wife gave me a modern Tamiya kit 25 years later. 1970s now turned into 1980s and my interests focussed on other things than plastic model kits. University studies, marriage and a beginning working career eventually brought me and my wife to northern England (Cumbria) for a couple of years in the early 2000s. Cumbria is known for its mountains, sheep, rainy weather and beautiful lakes where the rain eventually pools up. During the first rainy and dark winter there, I felt I needed a hobby and, in a town, called Kendal I found a model shop displaying a re-boxed Airfix version of Wasa. I was hooked. Gone where the creamy yellow plastic sails and shrouds and ratlines were made using gigs which were included in the kit. It turned into a decent model and for nostalgic reasons I painted the decorations according to the erroneous Airfix instructions from the 1970s. Ever since this second Wasa build I now and then dabble in plastics although I now prefer wood. HMS Prince of Wales is my first ship in plastics since my second Wasa almost 20 years ago. Off we go! Regards Henrik
  12. OK, I'll make a start on my next build log. The 1/350 Tamiya (new tool) Yamato with Pontos upgrade set and numerous other bits and pieces. Those of you that have watched some of my other builds have obviously figured out I like the aftermarket stuff. That being said the kit is enormous, compared to my last build. I also got a cheap old took kit off ebay for painting practice when I get around to buying an airbrush.
  13. I was able to pick up this Tamiya 1/350 scale German Battle ship Tirpitz, which is the sister ship to the infamous Bismarck kit for $48.00, which I though was a pretty good deal since it retails for about double that price. I intend on building it radio control, which shouldn't be too difficult since it as well as the Bismarck with both made for R/C use with diagraming of the R/C setup in the instructions. This model will be more of an inside build versus me having to work out in my shop like I usually do with my wooden models.
  14. Hi! After a break I'm back to ship modeling, and this time I'll share the build here aswell! So my next project is the Uss Missouri as she appeared on her last tour in the Operation desert storm. My first form of business is with the hull! Firstly all the details were removed from the hull. After this thorough sanding to get rid of the all the parting lines and minor damages. Then the hull plates were masked and sprayed with Mr surfacer 500. This is by no means 100% correct so bare that in mind! Some other details were done with some masking tape on the top belts. After this Mr surfacer 1200 on top to check how it would look like. And closer look of the effect. Still waiting for the pontos set to arrive, then I'll continue to add the rest of the remaining drain pipes etc. details before continuing to the decks.
  15. I saw this upgrade from 5 Star models when I was watching @Jack12477, 's build of a Fletcher. http://steelnavy.net/5StarFletcherUpgrade350FBustelo.html Then I saw a photo on the net of some oilcanning So I thought, challenging, detailed (seriously the hardest PE set I've seen to date), I can beat it up, and it's small so mistakes won't be so visible. As it's a US Ship there are a lot of photos but this one will be strait out of the boxes.
  16. Finally started on this big plastic tub. Besides the invisible PE from Tamiya - bring x-ray goggles - I've got both the Pontos detail up set advanced , and the FlyHawk. The latter is quite impressive. No pictures from the Pontos PE. I forgot to take pictures, and on top of that I just dropped my coolpix on the ground, lens first. It seems I might just as well buy a a new one, as repairs will cost me about the same The Flyhawk had the Nagato booklet, but they sent me a replacement. It seems it is easier to find what parts go where with the proper booklet Sister ship is built by Greg IJN Yamato 1:350 This will be a slow (agonising) build. I've decided to start with all the small parts like guns and turrets to get some dexterity with the PE. This is worse than the stripdown Fokker DR1 I build from Eduard
  17. Hi all I was given this and the Bismark for a Christmas pressie from my daughter and son I bought what i thought was the pe for this kit (which cost more than the kit and I now discover is still not the full pe for it, i will buy the rest but just have to wait a bit) so I was thinking I quite like the pics by Eduard and pontos (others are availiable) of the pe on the finished ship with no paint on it and was thinking maybe I would do that with just a slight difference being I would weather the pe but leave it unpainted. What do you all think, I quite like the pe showing I think it adds interest(i know it's not very accurate but let's face it I'm pretty rubbish with this modelling lark and I very seldom build as per the instructions anyway. So here is my start on this build Made a start on the decking (Will be using pastels for the decking this is just the base coat.
  18. Hi all I got this last Xmas and although I don't get much modelling time these days I wanted to start it but as always with a difference I want to depict her during the battle as she's sinking and at the bottom of the sea, all at the same time. I realise she didn't break up and apart from 35 meters of the stern is still in one piece on the bottom. She landed practically on top of an undersea volcano which erupted and she slid down the side as the volcano erupted leaving her laying level on the seabed with her stern mostly covered. My problem is do I play with the historical facts and cut her into 3 sections to depict what I want or is there a way of depicting the whole thing whist keeping her whole.
  19. I’ve been making models since the late sixties but stopped making them when I moved home back in 2008. Due to acute kidney failure back in March leaving me needing a hobby that wasn’t to physically demanding bought me back to scale model making. My first foray back led me to buying Tamiya’s - still rather good - 1:350 scale Prince Of Wales kit which had an all too brief but illustrious career in 1941. However Tamiya being a Japanese company depicted her at the time Singapore fell in December 1941. After some research I’d decided to depict her as she was in May 1941 as she was while berthed at Scapa Flow - a bit of local interest as I live within range of her main artillery. I also needed to backdate her Triple A and colour scheme to her pre June 1941 refit. Another search led me to Korean company Pontos models multimedia Bismarck action detail up set. First image is the Tamiya kit, most of it will be staying on the sprue as the original - although good for how the technology was in 1986 leaves us wanting in the second decade of the 21st century. Second image is the Pontos models 1941 detail up set. Inside are two large bags - one containing four smaller bags of resin parts and the other containing four bags of turned brass with everything from the ships bell up to main armament barrels. Underneath are six sheets of photo etch brass. There are a couple of omissions from the set - porthole covers and carley rafts. L’Arsnell solves the raft issue still looking for a solution to the porthole issue. First update 04/07/2018 I’ve been a little busy over the last week but Sunday and today I had free time, the deck has finally been cleared and the Pontos wooden deck finally attached - it’s a nice snug fit and really looks impressive. One word of caution though, don’t remove The rectangular bumps from the foredeck and the two just aft of “Y” turret - they form the bases of the PE hatches that Pontos provide also the two square “boxes” attached to either side of “B” turret as the wooden deck goes around them - I see some scratch building in my not to distant future. THE HULL Looking at the kits hull shows only one major(ish) clanger - the bilge keel is too long (it extends too far aft and too far forward - a little bit of surgery will put that right. For reference, I’m using Roger Chesneau’s book on building the KGV class battleships and the drawings there show the bilges start 21 cm from the bow and finish 21 cm from the stern (1:350 scale) One other issue is the lack of riveted panel joints on the hull - Tamiya have managed to put them on the turrets but not the hull. A search on the internet reveals an image of POW moored in Placentia Bay, Newfoundland - stern in but riveted panel joints clearly visible - a second image (this one of the Hood) shows the entire hull panel joints clearly visible, but only down to the boot topping - Royal Navy used the same pattern in all their capital ships.
  20. Since my account got lost in the redesign of the site i am going to start this build log. I am building the Tamiya USS Missouri ( as can be guessed by the title). I started this a while back but took a short break to build my friend a 1/35th scale M198 Howitzer (pics below). He was an artilliery man in the Marine Corps. I am enlisting myself so i would like to see if I can finish the Mighty Mo before i ship out. (fingers crossed). I will add pictures soon of what i have completed but i have painted the hull and some of the super sturcture. I have also sanded down the modeled chain and bought a real chain to replace it. I have some PE kits that i hope to expand my skills with and replace some of the stock parts. I also have purchased a wooden deck to be placed over the plastic one. I stumbled upon this site http://www.worldaffairsboard.com/modelers-corner/60395-building-tamiya-missouri-super-detailing.html where someone has built the same model. He adds some REAL detail to it and i have been taking a lot of tips from this sight. Just hope it turns out half as good. I think that is it for now. More to come soon.
  21. Here is a new build, the Bismarck. All I can say is that this is one kit that needs photo etch as there is very little detail. I would expect more from Tamiya. Anyway here are shots of the sprues
  22. I have been trying to find some sort of a chart with several manufacturer of paint for matching. Then I stumbled over this website, where you can enter one manufacturer and get a comparison of another brand. Hopefully this would make it easier when finding paint for our kits. Vallejo color chart Any comparison is possible. Upload a picture and use it for reference is also possible. Enjoy!
  23. Hey everyone, After finishing my Cutty Sark (available for viewing in the gallery) I decided to try a plastic kit with a PE set. I had never seen these PE sets before and one of the reasons I really enjoy building models is due to their detail. The harder and more detailed the kit is, the more I want to build it. So I saw this Yamato Kit and saw the PE set and my eyes just about fell out of my head. I had some pics up before the crash, and I'm not sure what I had, but these are some that may have been here before. Anyway, I have made much more progress than the pics indicate and will have to take more to update this build. Hope you enjoy.
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