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  1. well i had put out a large amount of my military retirement dollars on the trumpeter vii uboat kit A and B and have ordered the pe parts by the rc people. when i stumbled upon this site and yves great build log. i had purchased a 32nd kit many years ago and had to sell it off before getting a chance to build it. so i am going to take the jump and build this. { gulp } hope i can measure up to the high standards set by people who have already been here before me !!!!!!!
  2. I’ve been waiting a few years for this to come out, and Trumpeter has an upgrade set as well as Eduard has some nets. strangely the Full deck (Av1) upgrade set has a wooden deck and Av3 does not. Lots of PE to bend but should not be too hard (he says now). Also a few other goodies like a few Catalinas and other bits still in the mail. I want to have her as she would have been in Darwin harbour in 1942 just before her demise. If you’ve been to Darwin, it’s Oz’s last frontier so in 1942 it would have been challenging.
  3. Folks,this model is the realization of a childhood dream. As long as I can remember, I have had a passion for submarines and more specifically for the German Type VIIc. A few years ago, Revell Germany proposed a very impressive model of the Type VIIc at the scale of 1/72 that was a nice match for their re-issue of the Matchbox Flower Class Corvette. A lot of negative things can be said about the Chinese quality and products, but in the domain of plastic scale models, they created a renewal, a revival of that discipline that no American or European companies have been able to even get close to. It started with their Bismarck and USS-Arizona in the scale of 1/200 and they have been relentlessly offering multiple models each time, bigger and bigger. The upcoming Titanic at 1/200 is another proof of their energy and commitment to this form of Hobbies. The models offered, the molding, packaging, artwork of the contents, quality of instructions and the size are absolutely unmatched by European or American manufacturers. Tamiya, being Japanese, remains in the leading group, but you pay for it. Their 1/48 U-Boat U-552 kit is probably the biggest kit that can be found on the market today, at least it is in my small collection. The following shows the box weighing 22 pounds resting against some of my pinball machines: That model is massive with a length of 1.440 meters, near 5 feet. The kit includes more than 1100 parts and is extremely well presented, packaged and molded as are the modern Trumpeter kits. All the parts are arranged into three large boxes with delicate parts carefully wrapped with bubble shields. The main hull and rear hull are located in their respective boxes, impervious to shocks and mishandling. Three booklets come with the kit: Instructions for assembly (70 pages), instructions for colors (20 pages) and a flyer for painting and assembling the 50 some crew members. on the PE side, it is very limited and spartan: However, two PE solutions are available: - Eduard with 3 sheets of PEs for the hull and conning tower - RCSubs with a fantastic offering (slightly more expensive than Eduard but ten times better and more protypical) of PEs, including the infamous Enigma machine in the scale of 1/48 - https://www.rcsubs.cz/index.php/photo-etched-sets/20-sets-for-u-boat-viic-1-48-trumpeter-06801 I have not made up my mind yet, but I am leaning very strongly towards RCSubz which allows to redo the entire deck and part of the hull, in brass. They are currently sold out but working hard to produce other PE kits. The amounts of parts is overwhelming: I have not replicated the instructions here, as it can be easily found on the Internet. Instructions are very precise, clear and are leading you step by step, towards a successful completion of that large model. The hull is provided with a grey side and a clear side: A lot has been said about that kit and numerous people have built it on the WEB. The best realization (in my humble opinion), being a French modeler who turned that kit into a museum piece with a galore of extra details. His Build Log can be found here: http://www.laroyale-modelisme.net/t20510-u-552-trumpeter-echelle-1-48 (in French): Here is another shot from a different builder, showing a beat-up and heavily rusty Type VII (Revell kit): People have been complaining about the clear acetate used to mold the Port side of the submarine and the starboard of the conning tower (mishap!!) and wished that both parts were molded with polystyrene. The Trumpeter kit insists mostly on the inside of the U-Boat and it is clearly what the Chinese tried to do with this massive kit. The Trumpeter kit is an enlargement of the Revell kit and all mistakes of the original Revell kit regarding the hull, have been carried over to the Trumpeter model. Despite these limitations, that kit remains an absolute must have (for submarine enthusiasts) and offers incredible potential for kit bashing and a level of details rarely obtained in naval plastic kits. I am not planning to start the building of this kit any time soon (other priorities to take care of) but still wanted to present it to you and perhaps get the motivation to tackle the biggest plastic model of my life. Yves
  4. Well here goes! I received the Trumpeter 1/60 Mayflower as a surprise gift. I patiently waited as a finished my Revell 1/100 Man O War. Now that it is finished and proudly displayed in it’s case I am ready for the Mayflower. I have never built a Trumpeter model, and in fact had not heard of the company prior to receiving the kit. I understand this Mayflower is the largest scale of the historic ship. It is huge with the hull being over 18” long. I have yet to begin gluing parts together so I don’t yet know how well Trumpeter model pieces fit together. Once I start I will report on that. However on first examination I am very pleased with the molding of the parts. Little or no flash to speak of. Parts clearly labeled. the instructions are simple drawings with arrows and numbers. Very limited text instructions so having experience from other builds will certainly be helpful. I would have found this very difficult if it were my very first build because of the limited text. There are 2 new techniques I will need to learn for this build. I will have to make my own ratlines. My previous builds had the premolded ratlines. I also will have to rig the deadeyes to attach the ratlines to the side of the ship and up in the masts. I will definitely be referring to MSW for technical advice on doing these two new skills. I began priming hull and deck sections with Vallejo surface primmer. Will be painting with Vallejo acrylics.
  5. Hi good folk of MSW! I will try something I haven't done since I screwed up my friend's Tirpitz when I was about 14... I do build models and have some skill, but I don't measure up to most on here! On to the build, I sold a few kits to make the Titanic fit the budget, and refurnished the model headquarters so that I could have a dedicated desk to my ship, whilst I also work on my other larger scale projects. I got the kit a couple months ago, and have started cleaning up decks to receive the wooden deck parts, and done some minor photo etch work, just ensure I can actually do this! PE is not my favorite material to work with, but I will attempt to do the ship some justice with these parts. My plan is to build subassemblies where I can, and join these together as the build progresses. I have watched a few videos on Titanic builds and other ship builds to see what order I should work in, and what aftermarket sets to get. My 'research' has led me to get the KA Models from Korea for their set, which has PE, 3d printed parts, resin parts, and wooden decks. I have also gotten "fiber optic" strands to do the portholes, I got 5 different sizes, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5 and 3MM and also ordered drill bits to the same size so I can install and light the model completely. I have looked at the portholes from Scale Warship, but they don't seem to have them anymore. I also was looking at Stern Plates upgrades from MiniBrass in France, but I'm afraid that may be out of my skill area. We shall see! Anyway, here is a picture of the model as she sits on my new work-table the kit is about 4.5 feet long so it takes most of the desk space, once I've "finished" the hull, I may move it to a side table so I can do sub assemblies and other projects at the main table. The wiskers is drill swarf from the port holes, I've used Porthole Jiggs from Nigels Modeling Benc to drill pilot holes on all the ones that are to be drilled. Thank you for letting post in this exceptional group of modelers!
  6. Next build is the HMS Zulu. A tribal class destroyer that has a generic PE set from White Ensign Models. It’s going to be a very aftermarket kit with 3D printing from Micromaster in NZ
  7. Hello all. Just registered few days ago. The project was actually stratered 7months ago. I chose Graf Zeppelin because it was my second most played ship in World of warship.(with highest exp record lol ) The ship is still building but I am sorting out different photos and would like to share with you. Please don't be hesitate if anything that I could improve.
  8. CONVERTING RMS TITANIC TO HMT OLYMPIC. Using the 1/200 Trumpeter RMS Titanic as the base kit. Acknowledgements. The vast majority of the source data I used were taken from the Titanic CAD Plans website, created by Dr. Bob Read. Sadly, the operation has been permanently closed, but the site is still available as a research center. If you purchased any of the Olympic plans when they were available, I would like to get some information off them, because the thumbnails on the site are too small for me to see some of the details. Caveats. This is just a construction log; historical information is available all over the place, so I will only discuss them as they relate to building the model. Also, I am not attempting to rebuild the Trumpeter kit from the keel up. To me, it is perfectly fine for what I am doing. If you are wanting to 100% "accurize" the kit, like correcting the stern hull plates, etc., I recommend visiting 1/200 Titanic Builders Group on Facebook. This kit has upgrade detail products available out the ying yang. I have no vested interest in any of these products, but I will describe what I used and why. HMT OLYMPIC. Below is a photo of Olympic in camouflage scheme, 19A. She is underway at around her full speed of 23 knots, with a full load of troops. She is in battle-ready condition, with lifeboats swung out and her complement of (6) 6" guns manned and ready (the aft two are visible on the poop deck.) She is also flying the white Royal Navy battle ensign from her aft mast. This scheme was applied in 1917 and sometime in 1918 it was changed to 19Ax. Note that the canvas is removed from ALL of the lifeboats: it was a lesson learned by the sinking of Britannic that she might be needed to offload her entire complement of approximately 4,000 souls in less than one hour! Of particular interest to me is the two long booms swung out near the forward well deck. I believe these are for handling lines to operate the paravanes, but if you have other ideas, please comment.
  9. I’m going to double stack builds here as I think I’ll have a bit of a wait in the upgrades from NZ. Again a kit I found cheap on E-Bay, I got quite a few extras from around the world. I wanted to do the fit out for April 1945, where the remainder of the Kriegsmarine was used to evacuate citizens from the Soviet army. The Flyhawk upgrade allows for a 1944 or final fit out. The final fit out allows me to beat it up as it would have been almost worn out. As usual the Flyhawk PE is just outstanding but I’ve gotten some 3D printed twin flack guns, and some newly released sea mines too.
  10. So part 2 of the HMS Kent build. The modern one. It won’t be in its most current configuration as the Radar is not available. The Infini upgrade set is as usual absolutely excellent. tje nice thing about a modern ship is there is a lot of photos open source on Facebook.
  11. Ok, here's a quickie reboot of my Bismarck thread as requested: At the moment this is jut about the biggest, scariest (in more ways than one!) chunk of plastic that you can pick off the shelf at your local Rob-E-shop. Here's the hull next to a 1/350 Tirpiz (Bismarck's sister-ship): The kit is fairly impressive "out of the box" but it has it's problems. The first thing that worried me about the kit was the sorry shape of the porthole molds. Trumpeter molded all the portholes straight on the broadside angle and also molded the major superstruture pieces whole, rather like lego blocks This means that every porthole on the hull that is not directly broadside is warped. For example: There are plenty of curves on this ship... which means a awful lot of portholes to fix. The hull is also extremely thick plastic... great for strength and stability but after drilling out the portholes it made them look like little round cave openings instead of ports. This was my first attempt to fix the warped portholes with putty and drilling; it did't turn out the way I wanted. Also, it turns out the hull shape is wrong below the waterline and has too much of a "banana" shape to it which makes painting a waterline and boot top a bit challenging as it is not marked off with scribing or raised lines like most plastic ship models. More to come...
  12. Here is my in progress build of the 1/200 Supermarine Walrus by Trumpeter, with some help from Pontos...and yes there is a battleship attached! Cheers, Tom
  13. Hi everyone, this will be a record of my attempt to complete the huge challenge that is Trumpeters Mighty MO. the addition of both pontos kits only compounds this challenge. I have almost everything. I’m just waiting on the advanced add on kit to arrive. I recently completed Trumpeters Bismarck. The MO is 4 inches longer! I won’t bore anyone with photos of every sprue, but heres the color scheme and paint chart. Now I wish I could use tamiya paints as I like them and I am comfy airbrushing them, but their color selection for the MO is horrible. so I got these 2 sets from AK interactive. I hope they airbrush ok. any thoughts? I’m also considering Model Air and AK real colors of ww2. If I can find the colors needed. I got this Eduard mini kit of hull plates. The first of the Pontos kits dry transfers theres 50 of these to build! I went with the blue deck because it looks better to me. thats all for now. The 2nd Pontos kit should be here anyday now.
  14. Having finished my Prince of Wales (Tamiya 1:350) I am now starting a new project. In the end of my previous build log Canute recommended Trumpeters 1:350 Hood. Thanks Canute. I have now bought that kit from my local supplier. The kit looks very nice. I think this is the first MSW build log of a Trumpeter Hood 1:350. As you can see on the box it is a long ship (75 cm) which is about 10 cm longer than Prince of Wales, i.e. 35 m in real life. Commissioned in 1920, as the last battle cruiser for the Royal Navy, the profile looks differently compared to other large WW2 ships. The mighty Hood as she was called was in service between 1920-1941 as she was sunk by Bismarck. The kit can be built as a water line model as well as a full hull. I think my Hood will be a waterline version. I have not tried that before. Maybe a diorama...... I now some pictures. Regards Henrik
  15. This not the start of the build but is the current stage which is about 80% complete as i have been of the model for several months now, the previous stages I am affraid were lost in the old site crash. I will be adding the picture trail from the start once I have knocked then into a suitable order. The kit comprises of the Trumpter Arizona plus upgrades from Trumpeter which includes all of the 5/6 inch barrels, Nautilus Wood deck, White Ensign P/E upgrade, Brass Screws to replace the plastic ones in the kit, White Ensign Anchor Chain Plate. One thing I have noted is that the Trumpter P/E is really soft and the stairways fall apart far to easily - anyone comtempating their use should consider heat treating them to harden the up. New anchor chain is now planned - its likely I'll purchase a self colured black chain at 16 links per inch. The main superstructure has been completed ready for locating on the main hull, the stack and ships boats are compete as is the main armament and AA Guns and ^ inch guns. The Lower hull is in preparation for paint with the "A frames and shafts located" The Upper hull has been partially painted in Grey and the black bootstrap applied - I have made that at 4 mm wide as its the smallest width tape I could easily locate. Latest news is I have been looking to fit the anchor chain plate on the forward deck but have encountered some problems with the compatibility of the 3 main components - Trumpeter forward deck section, Nautilus Wood deck and White Ensign Anchor plate. Whats transpired is that the wood is exact as far as I can tell is acurate to the moulding but the chain plate has been designed to overcome the faults in the moulding and is exact to the orignal drawings which renders its use difficult in the planned configuration I have. For the builders who count rivets to the nth degree thats fine but for those who are looking for a practical build it becomes difficult. White Ensign have been great in trying to assist in the build throughout. i have decided to make a compromise at this stage and now omit the chain plate P/E even though at first I thought I could work around the issues but in the end I have decided its not worth the effort. I intend to post the long file of pictures on the build from the start possibly at the weekend as I have been holding back until the site stabilizes having lots the 3 Caldercraft builds adding up to some 2000 posts.
  16. Next build, a series of British ships I think, is the HMS Kent from 1942, one of the 4 such ships of this period (the modern Frigate HMS Kent will be next). There is a dedicated PE set for some of the other County class ships but not Kent so some jury rigging will be needed plus extras etc my plan is to weather her heavily as she was doing the Murmansk escorts at this time. Jamie from Sovereign Hobbies has pretty much the most accurate paint scheme which I will use.
  17. Wanting to start another ship kit, I dug this one out of the plastic stash. For those interested, the historical information of the ship can be found here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/German_destroyer_Z30 This kit is produced by Trumpeter, looks alright in terms of part quality, and looking for something a bit less intense than the semi-brass builds I see others doing I figured I'll do this one mostly-out-of-the-box. The only edits I'll do are to swap out the 20mm AA gun positions with these etch folded ones that I'd acquired from some long-forgotten sale. The ship needs five, the set comes with ten ... with my patented ten-thumb etch skills, the ratio sounds about right.
  18. Hi everybody, I actually started this November of 2016. for a long time I didn't want to create a build log because all I have for a camera is an Iphone se. I didn't take many photos up till now, but I will from now on if the photo quality is ok. Even tho I'm about halfway done here are the few photos I have so far. This is the first model I have built since Revell kits 25 years ago when I was 11 years old. So you won't see anything fantastic here The first few photos is after the hull and deck have been completed. Some photo etch and deck fittings ready for paint with Tamiya Sky Grey before weathering and after weathering. this is the first time i have ever weathered. It's not a good job but it is what it is. More photo etch. Also the smallest set of stairs i have ever seen. And painted along with some guns shes wondering why I have been working on my model for 6 hours forgeting to take her for a walk These Veteran Model mini kits of the various guns are so great. The detail is amazing! my work bench And finally some railing work brings us to where i am now with the model.
  19. here a new build I'm going to be doing this is a plastic model which I have done lots of these I've had to put my other ones aside right now cant wait to get stared
  20. Years ago I got the Anatomy Of The Ship book Bartolomeo Colleoni, and thought what a beautiful ship. So many of the pre WW2 Italian ships were, (but not that good in the real thing with other navies with Radar). The Trumpeter Zara is a new mold, with nice features and a decent upgrade sets on a slow boat from China. I got some Profile Morskie line drawings as well. I've spent the last few weeks scouring the internets for photos and references, most of the research gold is from Russian sites so my plan is to populate a lot of this build with photos of Zara that are very very hard to find.
  21. Hi All, I am new top this forum so I'm trying to get the hang of it. I am at the final stages of competing Missouri battle ship. A big job and very fiddly in places and I am at the stage of fitting hand rails to the main deck. I have the pontos photo etch kit and it supplies stanchions for hand rails. I have been using Pontos web site a lot and it has been very helpful but with the stanchions I cant make out if the stanchion is folded and hand rail fits inside the folded stanchion or if stanchion is just folded and glued and hand rail glued on the side of stanchion. Has anyone had experience with this. Thanks Chris.
  22. Well, at the urging of yvesvidal, I'm starting this build log on my Trumpeter 1/48 scale U-Boat. I had wanted to build this kit after watching SkipperTed's build videos on YouTube. I had been out of model building for about 40 years (that seems to be quite common these days). I've always liked a challenge and this kit delivers that in spades! I love superdetailing my models and, as this is a full cut-away, it's a detailers dream. Little did I know what I was getting myself into. First, a little background on the kit and the particular boat I chose to model. If you're unfamiliar with the kit, it's like many Trumpeter kits as it is heavily detailed in some sub-assemblies and woefully short of detail in many others. It definitely feels like a "designed by committee" kit. While the Engine Room has a fantastically detailed diesel engine, the Conning Tower is sadly vacant of detail in any amount. However, if you enjoy adding lots of little fiddly bits, it's a perfect kit for this. Several detail parts suppliers, primarily on Shapeways, have some wonderful pieces that make huge improvements to the model. There are also 2 very large PE sets available. Unfortunately, all of the details available are for the exterior of the boat and, if this were a closed hull model, that would be more than sufficient. However, creativity can make up the shortcomings. Don't get me wrong, built straight from the box this builds into a very impressive model but, with the added details, it can easily be built into a museum level display. As for the boat I'm building, the kit is a Type VIIC U-Boat. This was the most common type built during the war and my boat, U-371 was commissioned in March of 1941. I picked this boat at random from the list of all of the Type VIIC boat numbers. It was simply because I liked the number. It was the first one I picked and it turned out to have a very long career, by U-Boat standards anyway. She patrolled the Atlantic off of the French and Portuguese coast during her early career, then made the passage past Gibralter into the Mediterranean. She would patrol there until 4 May, 1944 when she was sunk. During all but her last patrol, she was commanded by Kapitanleutnant Waldemar Mehl. His personal insignia, a dragonfly riding torpedo, is the only positively identifiable photo of U-371.
  23. Going to do a simple build of the modern U.S. warship USS Independence LCS-2. Will not get bogged down in a lot of aftermarket items, just a couple of add-ons and the kit supplied photo etch. The Independence is an assault transport ship designed for littoral combat and a variety of missions.
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