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Found 21 results

  1. Greetings to everyone on the site! I have been coming to this site for quite some time, as I considered and then purchased this kit. I have previously built a wood model ship, because my wife surprised me with one. My finished ship is Artesania Latina's Virginia. She bought it due to my discussion of building the USS Constitution, and her thought that I would benefit from starting smaller. I am convinced she was right. I would like to thank several members for their thorough build logs of this kit, as I've visited them each many times. JSGerson, xken, CaptainSteve, and usedtosail; thanks to you all particularly. Your build logs will help me avoid rework, as you've each given me caution to sequence my construction correctly. The way that I had started, this kit would not have yielded my expected outcome without frustration and rework. I was inspired to do this ship twenty years ago, when I became employed by the Navy as a civilian. I was hired as an apprentice Shipwright, and eventually graduated as a Journeyman Shipwright. Several quarters of my trade class dealt with wooden ship construction, although the work of a modern Shipwright does not include building wooden ships. It was a part of the curriculum though, and I gained an interest. After twenty years of employment I have been promoted a few times, and became the Director of the Shipwright, Sailmaker, and Woodcrafter trades for a time. Because of this, I had the opportunity to supply wood to Boston Shipyard for the USS Constitution. We had some Lignum Vitae stored in water barrels in our wood shop, and we have no use for it at my shipyard. I was nearly on the list to ride the ship during undocking, to witness the use of new undocking precision instruments. However, travel budgets were restricted. Yearly appropriations, after all. I will be attempting to construct the USS Constitution as she likely appeared at launch. I have many sources for my plans, and do have both the original and the more current Navy plans. I purchased the AOTS book by Marquardt, and found his diagrams highly likely based on my other info. I find the 1797 version of this ship to be the most ornate, and beautiful. I will be including the gun deck, and the Captain's and Commodore's quarters. I plan to light the interior, and include miniature figures. Miniature sailors have been difficult to find, but I will find them eventually. Unfortunately, I started this kit without planning to include these modifications. The first couple of pictures will show a transom coming together, only to be taken back apart, then the removal of some of the waterway and spar deck frames. Thanks again to the previously mentioned members for the inspiration! Lol. I apologize, but I will have to get the pictures up tomorrow. I guess they are all still on my device.
  2. Hi everyone, here's a link to my blog where I'm attempting my first model build ever. I chose a pretty difficult one apparently but I'm excited to see how it turns out. I started the Revell 1:96 USS Constitution build a year ago and then took a long break but I'm back now to try and finish it. I'd say I'm about 40% complete. This website has been a huge help in regards to viewing other's builds and giving me advice/tips on constructing my own ship, so thanks to the fellow builders. Here's my link! Feel free to comment or give advice either here or on the blog itself. Feedback is welcomed! http://shipsofsean.blogspot.com/
  3. Gentlemen, I just picked up the Revell plastic model kit for USS Constitution 1:96 scale. I have never built a model ship before. Well, I did make a model sail ship from a snap on kit, less than half the size of USS Constitution, about 60 years ago. Anyway, so I have painted the holl, joined it, threaded the tiller through lower gun deck, painted the stern gallery, etc. in the same page 14 of the instruction manual, in step 5, there is an inset at lower bottom,showing how to install rudder on the hull. The picture shows a vertical shaft running through six Eye-bolts that the two sides of the rudder will wrap around. Here is my problem. The instructions do not say anything about how that shaft will be made and attached to the hull. No part numbers etc. If this was something that was already built on the hull, well I don't see it on mine. If I have to built it and attach it, then I could probably drill six holes in appropriate positions and put six eye-bolts in them, but what about the shaft that is going through the eyebolts. Second problem is that the tiller part # 12 has a hook that gets embedded at the top between the two sides of rudder (Parts # 9 and 10). The problem is that the dent inside the top of #9 fits the hook on tiller. The dent on the other side is not the same size. Is it by design? Or is it inaccurate moulding. So, how do I fix that. Is the rudder going to be stationary, or is it going to be able to swing by the Wheel. I am not picturing it. One more question. I don't really like the plastic shrouds and ratlines. If I wanted to rig my own with the threads, do I need to buy blocks and other hardware or I can still use the plastic ones and tie the shrouds to them. I will really appreciate the help. I am attaching the copy of the page landscape orientation). Thanx. Neil
  4. Folks - Here is my rebuilt log of my Plastic Constitution build. I've copied the entries over from another forum and I reserve the right to alter a few things to clean up previous errors: I’ve had a Revell 1/96 USS Constitution fall into my stash at a very reasonable price (Overstock.com) and it seems appropriate to take it on in recognition of the upcoming anniversary of USS Constitution’s victory over HMS Guerriere on August 19. I’ve been spewing forth much hot air in defense of the Michel Felice Corne paintings and their representation of the ship as she first burst into glory against HMS Guerriere, so I feel obligated to back up my tirades with action. I’ll try to make this version align very closely to what we see in these paintings commissioned by Captain Hull immediately after his victory (https://picasaweb.google.com/106997252788973852335/PEMMichelFeliceCorneGuerrierePaintings'>https://picasaweb.google.com/106997252788973852335/PEMMichelFeliceCorneGuerrierePaintings). This does mean that I’ll set aside my Heller HMS Victory build for a time - I haven’t lost a bit of enthusiasm for that project - but I’ll apply what I learn in this new effort towards making that one better down the line. Like many of us (most of us?) I’ve built this kit before... a few decades (or more) back. It seems to have been almost a rite of passage for anyone wanting to take ship modeling seriously. I’ll call that one the MK 1 version and it still exists in a dusty condition on a high shelf in the garage: I was never happy with that earlier effort. Much has happened in the intervening years to improve my chances of making a more representative kit - most notably the proliferation of great information on the internet to inform my approach. This venerable kit was originally issued back... well, back before some of us were born(!)... and I think it still holds up well. Certainly there is plenty of flash and injection moulding marks that we don't see in modern kits, but the kit still makes up into an impressive display as we can see in the various log entries across this forum. It seems to be a copy of the 1/48 George Campbell plan model in the Smithsonian collection (http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery/misc/sail/constitution-48-sm/con-index.html'>http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery/misc/sail/constitution-48-sm/con-index.html) - which itself is a refinement of the famous Hull model built by the crew and presented to Captain Hull following his victory over Guerriere (https://picasaweb.google.com/106997252788973852335/PEMUSSConstitutionHullModel'>https://picasaweb.google.com/106997252788973852335/PEMUSSConstitutionHullModel). We see plenty of similarities in the bow and stern between the models and the Revell color guide somewhat follows the original. So the question becomes - does this Revell kit align well to the configuration of the Constitution when she earned her “Old Ironsides” moniker against HMS Guerriere? Well, strictly speaking no... In fact, if built OOB it would not actually represent Constitution as she was configured in any of her wartime cruises. There is a critical difference between the historic model and her modern copy - the Hull model shows 15 gun ports on each side of her gun deck (although the forward most are a bit too far forward) and the Revell kit shows 16. The difference is explained by this journal entry from Frederick Baury - one of Constitution’s midshipmen: 21 Sep 1812 Carpenters cutting bridle ports in bows ‑‑ Lieutenant Morgan and Midshipman Taylor left on recruiting duty. After returning to Boston following the battle, Isaac Hull resigned and command was handed over to the much despised William Bainbridge. He proceeded to make a few changes including the addition of “bridle ports” up forward to help in towing, anchoring, and to potentially serve as bow chaser positions. Unlike the guidance provided by the Revell instructions, these positions would not normally have had a gun mounted. If needed during a chase, a nearby 24-pounder would be hauled into one of these spots to lob a few shots and try for a lucky hit to take out a spar and slow down the prey. To that end Bainbridge made another change as outlined by Commander Tyrone Martin in his overview of Constitution’s armament: Following his succession to command of the ship on 15 September 1812, Commodore William Bainbridge eliminated the 18-pounder, simplifying his ammunition loading and handling problem by dropping one caliber. The gun had been virtually useless, anyway, since the ship's bow structure was not well suited to the accommodation of a chase gun. Bainbridge may have been a jerk of a human being, but he was an astute naval commander and he thought it made more sense to offload the 18 pdr chase gun and make room to store more 24 pdr ammunition for his main guns. So the 16 gun ports and the spar deck bow chaser as provided in the kit could not co-exist. The easiest solution to bring things into alignment is to ditch the bow chaser and the two forward main deck guns and call it a day. You’d likely have the correct representation of Constitution’s configuration when she scored her victory over HMS Java. Since I am trying to show her during the battle with HMS Guerriere, I will preserve the bow chaser gun, but I will need to take the drastic step of filling in the forward bridle ports. If you want to represent her last war cruise under Charles Stewart, then you’ll have to revisit the carronades on the spar deck. Here again Commander Martin provides some insight: [Charles Stewart] reduced the number of carronades to twenty and added two 24-pounder "shifting gunades" recently captured from the British by an American privateer. Designed by Sir William Congreve in 1814, each was 8' 6" long, but being of thinner barrel construction weighed only about 5000 pounds on carriage. The design was an attempt to combine the range of a long gun with the lighter weight of a carronade. The pair sat on carriages like the long guns, and it was expected that, since they were lighter, they could readily be shifted from side to side as combat required. Apparently Stewart had the two forward most and two aft most carronades removed and replaced with one each of the newfangled gunnades. I have no idea how these actually looked when mounted on a carriage, but it might be possible to find slightly over scale carronade barrels and mount them to the two gun carriages no longer needed on the main gun deck. Oh, and you’d also need to paint her with a yellow band - that is well documented. Regarding the carronades... As represented in the kit with the wooden quoins, these would seem to be rather quaint. The carriages on the foredeck with their small trucks would also seem to be inappropriate for 1812. Certainly by the time of Trafalgar it would be more typical for a carronade to be mounted with a pin to the bulwark with trajectory controlled by an elevation screw. I think Karl Heinz Marquardt addresses these same concerns in his AOTS book since the restored ship has these outmoded versions still represented. I’ll optimistically try to modify all of the carronades to include the elevation screws and eliminate the funky rolling carriages on the foredeck. Many folks get caught up in the various permutations of the stern gallery windows. Were there six or five?... or three or eight? The Hull model shows six, but the Corne paintings have five... I’m frankly not concerned either way. I assume there were many chances for the configuration to have changed across the years as different commanders supervised different refits within different time and budget limitations. Perhaps Hull and his crew replaced the six windows with only five after destroying the original gallery windows during their escape from Broke’s squadron (they axed out the windows and some of the transom to position guns to fire at their pursuers). Maybe there were always six and Corne got this wrong. Nobody knows the truth and we likely never will... I’m fine with working with the six depicted on the kit. The rudder on this kit is a bit perplexing... It is moulded with wood grain without any copper plating represented. Hmmm... That doesn’t seem correct. I’ll ponder the idea of putting some of my extra styrene strips to work and setting that right. Of course the kit provided plastic eyelets and rings are worthless - easily broken and a bit over scale. Those will be replaced with wire or PE versions. Somehow I managed to not break any of the plastic hammock cranes on my first effort all those years ago, but I’ll replace those with ones fashioned from brass micro-tubing and Jotika eyelets. Some of the thinner spars are also vulnerable to bending/breakage. I’ll try to shape some brass rod for replacements. I’ll need to carefully consider the moulded blocks - some may be usable or otherwise converted to usefulness. I suspect I’ll replace most with online purchases. The gun port lids will be omitted altogether - the Hull model and the credible paintings of the period (including the Corne series) don’t show them mounted (although the Hull model has a lid for the forward most ports). The pre-formed ratlines, moulded deadeyes, and vacuum formed sails will not be utilized. ‘Nuff said. As for the accuracy of the rig represented in the kit... I am having trouble finding a stable representation of her complete masting and rigging layout. The 1817 Charles Ware diagram may be about the best, but as Marquardt points out it differs in some respects to other seemingly authoritative sources. It is also interesting to note that the Corne paintings are showing crows feet rigged... that is unique. At least it appears that the trysail mast (immediately abaft the mizzen) is authentic - records indicate that Isaac Hull had this added to allow better movement for the boom and gaff. The Hull model clearly shows it fitted as well. I’ll worry more about the rigging when I’m much closer to that phase, but in the meantime I’ll probably fork over the $60 bucks for the Bluejacket manual set and perhaps rely on that for guidance... The biggest bugaboo in this kit is the multi-part decking. Ugh... The forums are full of attempts to mitigate the unsightly seams with various levels of success. Some folks just don’t worry about them at all and instead try to make the rest of the deck interesting enough to be distracting. I’ve even seen one modeler glue “battens” over them and pass them off as a “feature”. My first attempt was relatively successful in aligning the deck sections and eliminating any meaningful gap, but I was hesitant to fill and sand because I was trying to preserve the moulded wood grain detail. I was attempting to follow the “Les Wilkins” method of using a razor or low-grit sandpaper to remove the top layer of tan paint to reveal the base coat of black and highlight the grain (guidance that is also provided in the Revell instructions). I’ve since decided that the grain is a bit overdone at this scale and it’d be best to smooth everything down and use shades of paint and perhaps some artist pencils to impart the wood tones. Eliminating the seams is more important than preserving the grain. There are many fine efforts out there... Here’s one that inspires - well known to those of us who prowl the web for impressive builds: http://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=11091&sid=a22ea2a7adc8efe9b2fcffd0273bb134'>http://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=11091&sid=a22ea2a7adc8efe9b2fcffd0273bb134 Other useful online resources: http://www.history.navy.mil/photos/events/war1812/atsea/con-guer.htm'>http://www.history.navy.mil/photos/events/war1812/atsea/con-guer.htm http://www.navsource.org/archives/09/46/46021.htm'>http://www.navsource.org/archives/09/46/46021.htm http://www.maritimequest.com/warship_directory/us_navy_pages/sailing_ships/constitution/uss_constitution.htm'>http://www.maritimequest.com/warship_directory/us_navy_pages/sailing_ships/constitution/uss_constitution.htm http://www.hazegray.org/features/constitution/'>http://www.hazegray.org/features/constitution/ http://navysite.de/ships/consttour.htm'>http://navysite.de/ships/consttour.htm http://www.captainsclerk.info/'>http://www.captainsclerk.info/ Here are some of the modifications I hope to incorporate along the way: Customized elements: Fill in the forward Bridle ports. Thicken the gunport sills. Add a scratch built galley stove. Show the anchor cable/messenger cable rigged on the gun deck. Display Carronades with elevation screws. Replace rolling carronade carriages with lug mounted versions. Copper plating on the rudder. Hammock Cranes fashioned from brass micro-tubing. Brass Rod for delicate spars. New capstan on spar deck (and gun deck). Paint scheme (guidance from Corne paintings and Hull model): Yellow ochre band ending up forward in a scalloped half-circle. White trim on bow and stern details. Red gallery windows. Red gunport sills/linings, Green interior bulwarks on spar deck. White bulwarks on the gun deck. Green deck coamings/furniture on spar deck. Yellow ochre lower masts with “natural” above. Tops in Black. Black bowsprit with “natural” jib boom. Let the fun begin.
  5. Starting this log on July 29th 2017. Against my own better judgement I purchased a damaged Constitution model at a Housing Works NYC, a charity based second hand store. It was less than $30. But it's Bowsprit was broken and it was FESTOONED in what I take to have been "fake cobwebs" and dusty. But not anywhere near as dirty as any of the other ship Models I have restored. I took it home and removed all the fake cobwebs I could then I did something I don't recommend: I took it into the shower with me and scrubbed it with a toothbrush under the shower spray. When it was dry I assessed what I had: an unknown Constitution model with broken spars. It's solid hull and deck fittings had been completed and painted with very thick glossy paint. There were many white metal parts incorporated and all were still very well and firmly attached. the deadeyes and lanyards were all one-piece white metal castings too and these are all glued to the shroud assemblies. These shroud assemblies were completed off the model then glued into position as units, there were no shroud gangs or shroud eyes over any mastheads, the upper ends of all the shrouds were just glue-glommed onto the masts under the Trestle Trees. All the rigging was the same diameter, both Standing and Running. The running rigging was put on VERY haphazardly and although the workmanship of every other aspect of the hull and spars was not amazing but rather competent and not egregious, the running rigging is a train wreck. it looks like at the outset the rigger tried to be fastidious. There are blocks rove on the Lifts and Braces. But at a certain point near the end the rigger adopted the practice seen more usually on Gift Shop Models originating in third world countries: winding the rig onto the model in one long continuous length off a single spool, taking three or four sloppy turns around a yardarm here then more turns around the masthead there, then back down to another yardarm, and so on. It's an oddly inconsistent way to wrap up the model since the bulk of the craftsmanship prior to the second half of the rigging was OK. Visible in one of the photos below, take note of how great bundles of running rigging is "belayed" on deck by making a single overhand knot of all of it at once on the Starboard side of the Fife Rails on deck. A very odd lapse for the model builder. this hurried rigging completion AND the odd "fake cobwebs" ( which looked exactly like polyester down fill sold for quiltmaking) makes me believe this model was used as a prop in a haunted house. Those fake cobwebs were APPLIED to the model, not accidentally attached due to some odd quilting disaster. Anyway thanks for reading this far. Here are photos taken today.
  6. As a preliminary caveat to this log, please understand that the builder is a novice, and that numerous searches online for a faithful half-hull rendering of Old Ironsides have turned up few usable results. I deeply appreciate advice, and most of those who read this will probably be able to teach me something I don't know! This build log is for a half-hull rendering of the USS Constitution. I am using the AJ Fisher 1:96 plans, scaled down by 50%. The plans were purchased from the owner of the company, who gave me his permission to make a reduced copy for this purpose. I will be using a "lift" method of construction, with an appended keel, sternpost and rudder, and stem. The degree of ornamentation beyond that is still undecided. I plan to make two models of this sort - the first is a prototype and a test using Douglas Fir from Home Depot - I have given myself permission to make as many mistakes as needed in planning, build process, and execution on this first attempt. The second model is a gift for a family member who will be retiring from a lifetime of building ships for various companies, most lately the US Navy. All of us have had a "favourite uncle", and it's a delight for me to make something meaningful for mine. Our family comes from multiple generations of shipbuilders in New Brunswick, Canada, and model shipbuilding is my way of keeping that craft alive for my own children - albeit in a far humber fashion. So, with that said, on with the Log! ***Edit: It turns out the AJ Fisher plans are 1:96, so this is actually 1:192 scale. My apologies for not checking before posting! Edited the topic title as well.
  7. Got the kit for Christmas, convinced my wife to let me into it early. Been going on it for about a week now. Kinda crazy all the additional little purchases you need to make to aid in the build. This image is from a few days ago. I had seen different recommendations on how to paint (I'm REALLY new to this) as far as priming, thinning, enamel vs acrylic. I decided to go with enamel, no priming or thinning so that I wouldn't have to paint the whole hull black, but I'm regretting that a little now and I'll probably have to go back through and paint all the black to get rid of the little mistakes I made with the white. I taped off the waterline to get a nice clean line, but there was some seepage in places, more drastic in others as well... I cleaned that by taking a Q-tip soaked in thinner and rubbed it off, same as I did with the white, which you can tell it kinda left smears, a few more wipes with a clean Q-tip and it mostly went away. You also can't really tell in the picture, but there are obvious brushstrokes in the copper plating below the waterline and I don't really know how to get rid of them. I'm thinking I just need to paint another coat with some thinned paint. From here on out, I'm going to be priming any large part that I need to paint (decks, mast, etc.), and thinning at a paint to thinner ratio of 15:1. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. -Galen
  8. I have never done this (a build log) before, but from what I've seen, one of the best ways to get advice is to have a build log as a forum for discussion! I have in the past built model cars, but I recently, after a good 20 of years of nothing, decided to get back into it, and then I decided to try my hand at a ship! I built the 1/150 scale Revell USS United States. And I absolutely loved it! I have now decided (perhaps foolishly) to tackle the 1/96 USS Constitution by Revell. So I dove in earlier this week from the beginning, painting the hull. I have that mostly complete, still needing to paint the interior, and I've hit the detail areas on the bow and stern as well as on the cabin. Here are my pictures so far. I used a paint pen from Hobby Lobby for the gold and some of the white for the small detail, but a small brush and a toothpick for the other small parts. What I struggled with was the bulwarks color. I have decided to go with a darkish green, similar to what is on the current real life ship. I don't know why Revell wants it white, but I'm rebelling! I have been unable to mix a satisfactory green, so I'm buying some paint today. I am very nervous about this ship build because it's a hefty task for someone like me with very little to no experience. Also super excited. Hopefully the community here will be as awesome as it appears to be! My next task once the hull is complete is going to be an attempt at creating a weathered wood look on the deck. I have seen some vague references to doing this, but I am going with trial and error. If anybody has any input, please let me know! What I've done is grabbed varying colors of brown from light to dark, and I'm going to try to layer them. To be continued!
  9. Having accidentally deleted the previous posts, this is a new start. Over 70 years ago, I thought that the Dragon had the most beautiful lines of modern sailboats, and my opinion hasn't changed since. Sure, there were many boats that caught my attention from 8 meters to J boats, but to me, the Dragon had the lines of a classic sailboat before rating rules dictated changes such as plumb bows, reversed transoms, etc. I've sailed and raced a Penguin, Flatty (Geery 18), Coronado 15, Lightning, Soling, 26' sloop (Halliday) and Cal 40 but never a Dragon. Building the model is my vicarious way of gaining that experience. My last model, HMS Victory was a six year adventure, but at 83, another long project doesn't seem to make sense (I'd like to see the end result). There are only a few Dragon models on MSW. Cap'n Bob pleased his wife with a second build, 1:48 scale and Dee-Dee recorded a brief but detailed version of the hull. Borge used the Billing kit to build a cruising version with fine detail and exquisite metal work. I haven't the experience to replicate Borge's metal work, nor are metal lathes, drill presses, etc. considered proper decor in our den/office (condo). I've had a Billing Dragon kit for 20 or more years and it supplied the basics for my build. More on the kit quality later. The Dragon was designed by Johan Anker (Norway) in 1929, gaining world wide appreciation as well as Olympic Games status. Specifications are a fractional sloop rig (Bermuda rig), overall length of 29.17' (8.89m),displacement of 3740 lb. (1696 Kg.), molded finn keel of 2200 lb. (998 Kg.) and an upwind sail area of 286 sq.ft. Other designs with similar sail areas include the Star, Etchells 22 and 5.5 M class. The venerable Star boat carries about the same sail area for it's 22.9' (6.92m) hull and less than half the displacement. Star. The 5.5 M was designed as a developmental class as a slightly smaller and less expensive alternative to the 6 meter, at 31' (9.5m) displacing 3700 - 4400 lb. 5.5 M The Etchells 22 is perhaps the most similar design to the Dragon. Designed in 1966, the Etchells has an overall length of 30'6" (9.3m), displacement of 3324 lb. (about 400 lb. less than a Dragon) along with a finn bulbus keel and a reverse transome. The sail plan is very similar to the Dragon noting the location of the fore stay in the on deck photo. Next, the kit and beginning of the build. Cheers, Gil
  10. I'm listening to the news and they just said that the USS Constitution is on its way to dry dock for a major renovation. It's supposed to be done by 2017. I wonder what it's going to look like when they're done.
  11. Hello and welcome to my build log for my 1/96 Revell USS Constitution kit. This kit is going to be a slew of firsts for me. This is the first 'Age of Sail' ship for me. As well as my first build-log. I have also thought about adding lights where I can. I will do my best to keep this log up to date and look forward to learning from the builders here. A bit of background on my kit, I got it when I was in middle school and was too afraid to put it together for fear of messing it up. I now know better how old this kit is and I'm glad that I did not try it before I was ready too! The first images are of the kit it'self showing the general condition of the kit. She has a good deal of dust on the hull halves that I had actually started to mate together about 10 years ago. I also began painting the white stripe at the gun ports level but at this point I may redo the paint. I've also found a nasty miss-match at the bow. They do not mate well and for yet another first I've gone and added some filler back when I first glued the hull. I admit the Cement job isn't pretty in there but I wasn't that experienced yet at the time My sail sheets are not too bad though 2 of the sails are damaged. I will be modeling the ship with sails so I'm looking at possible ways to repair the sheets however I'm tempted to find another material to make the sails out of rather than use the old plastic ones. I had wanted to try to add lights inside the ship at the gun deck and Captains cabin, perhaps any topside lanterns, this will be a new challenge for me as I've never worked with lighting on a model before. Right now I am waiting for my supplies to come in and once they do I'm going to begin on this beast!
  12. I'm planning to embark on a build of the venerable USS Constitution 1/96 scale kit in which much of the decking will be omitted and the port side hull opened to allow an interior view. I'd also like to try a similar scale scratchbuilding project, a sectional cutaway of the Constitution (rather like the Mamoli kit but centered on the ship's wheel area). In either event, I'd like to try to include the recessed skylight hiding under the gratings of the small deck fixture immediately forward of the wheel. I know it's there. I've seen it mentioned in a few sources but none had pictures. A Google Image search came up snake eyes. I vaguely recall being told it was noted on the plans of the Model Shipways 1/96 kit but don't have those plans in the hoarde of paperwork, plans, and scrap drawings I'm accumulating. If anyone does have those plans (and if they do show the construction of the skylight itself, rather than just mentioning it's lurking below the grating), I would REALLY appreciate it if you could be so kind as to post the relevent drawings here. Ditto for any photos of the real thing on the actual Constitution. I've tried the MSW search bar but got nada for "Constitution recessed skylight" or several other word combinations. I thank you, ladies & gentlemen, for any aid you may see fit to render.
  13. Hello! I have built a variety of things over the years - starting off with aircraft, tanks etc. I have however been bitten by the ship bug! I have a part completed model of the Titanic (Minicraft 1/350 scale) to which I have added LED and fiber optic lighting, a lot of scratch building of smaller vents etc and photoetch - it's a work in progress at present. Following the receipt of a shiny new Revell Constitution I have been bitten by the bug. I have started owrk as follows (and I'll get pictures posted up soon): Gluing and cleaning up all the cannons - this did take a long while! Cleaning up gun carriages (correct terminology? - if not please enlighten me). Some of the wheels on these were rather poor and almost all had mold lines, or mold mismatch to a greater or lesses extent. I decided to sam the outside of the wheels flat and replace the "axle" in the center of the wheel with plastic rod. Gun deck - joined the three parts together using plastic on the underside, unsuring upper surface at joins is level across the joins. At this stage I have some questions which I would love some thoughts on: Decks - I have sanded the surface of the decks smooth and and contemplating what is the best way to replicate the deck. The alternatives I have in mind are as follows: 1. Scribing lines for the planks. 2. Wood veneer (holly perhaps?) cut into planks 3. Thin plastic sheet appropriately pained in slightly different shades cut into planks My inclination is towards the third option and I will maybe experiment with this and see what it looks like but I would really like the thoughs/suggestions of others on here. I am also curious on where I could put my hands on a plan of planking on the deck, any areas where planking was wider etc, Also what the width of planks on the decks was. Planning on retaining the plastic masts only where they can be reinforced internally with metal to avoid future bending. Smaller masts etc I plan on replacing with either brass tubing (sizes can be had which can be slid inside each other to represent taper - I Used this approach to replicate the masts on the Titanic), or alternatively with wood. If wood - any suggestions on the best product to use, and where it could be purchased? One of my general questions is where can I get a better understandign of sail ship terminology, especially as it relates to masts and rigging? I have reviewed a lot of the builds I can see on here and I will be shamelessly applying some of their good works - imitation is the sicerest fom of flattery after all. I especially like the approach take by force9 to his build. I'll try to get some pictures of work do far pposted shortly. Thanks for looking and for any comments of the questions I have above. Stuart
  14. Hi Gentlemen and Ladies of course. I'm currently studying the rigging plans for MS's Constitution and am wondering if there is any other use for the Runner Pendants (mast tackle) and Burton Pendants, other than being used for various lifting jobs and fishing anchors and the like. Were they ever used for any other kind of structural rigging? Been looking around and can't seem to find much info on the subject. Cheers
  15. I am new to the hobby and need a lot of advice. I considered buying the Constructo kit of the USS Constitution but I noticed that Model Shipways has a 48 inch model available at what seems to me a good price. I have built many RC airplanes so I'm not new to working with wood although nothing like the craftsmanship needed to produce a ship like this. I would like to know which is the best model to build. My wife calls me "Tim the tool man" because I tend to go with the bigger . . however is there something I need to know before making this decision? I want something that will give me a challenge and look worthy of my time when I finish. Which kit has the best parts quality to it? Or is there another kit of the USS Constitution out there that I am not aware of? Any help and advice is appreciated.
  16. Hello everyone. Frankly, I must start out to say that I am humbled all of the models I have seen so far here, wonderful and masterful work! I will admit that I am still of a novice when it comes to building with wood, but I have been building plastic models for fifteen years. This is my second wood model. I built a kit bashed Bluenose II for my wife a little over a decade ago. Therefore, this is my first attempt in as many years at a wooden kit. So the build begins: The third frame: The fifth frame: I look forward to sharing my progress with you, and reading all of your tips and feedback. Cheers, Timothy Igoe
  17. Well, I've enjoyed reading about soo many different builds here on this forum, It's time I try and post one of my own. I've done a little modeling over the years. Lots of plastic stuff as a kid. Lots of RC stuff in more recent years. Always been impressed with static wooden sailing ships. Attempted a Corel kit thirty years ago before the age of the internet. Remember going to the library looking for books on model wooden ship building, never found much. Still have the ship, may finish it one day, but thought I'd start fresh with the knowledge I've learned here and elsewhere. Lets see if I can get a couple of pics up. First the Kit! Where we are today. Thanks for looking, Duane
  18. Hi folks, Way back in the 70's when I still had brown hair, I built this plastic USS Constitution. As did many of us then, I glued the pieces together and then put the black strings where they belonged and the tan ones where they were supposed to go. Before I could complete this ship, I moved and during transit, that Constitution was destroyed beyond repair. Now retired, I happened to be on Amazon.com and saw my old ship for sale and I couldn't resist and a few days later UPS delivered my kit in a heavy rain storm lovingly protected by a plastic bag. Now it's 2013, I have white but we have the internet. So this time before doing anything else, I Googled the Revell USS Constitution and found Model Ship World. To make a lousy pun, I was sunk after that. Especially after I saw what could be done with a plastic ship kit, some supplies and some know how. MSW is unbelievable! I was amazed with all of the superb craftspeople but was particularly taken with Force9's approach to building the Constitution and because I know nothing at all about shipbuilding I decided to start out by emulating his approach figuring that as I progressed I would make discoveries of my own. I had no idea how right I was. The first thing I found out was that "kitbashing" is not for the faint of heart. I began and started over three times on the first step of lining the hull with styrene stripping to "thicken" the bulwarks until finally I thought things were going well. After looking at Evan's (Force9) pictures of the r/w Constitution, I thought that it would be nice to model the bolts in the buwarks and that's when things started to get dicey. I took my punch to .010 styrene strip and it didn't take long for me to realize that it's not good enough just to punch some bolts in the strip. It has to be punched on in a prescribed manner so that there is pattern after the strips go on or it won't be very believable. So off they came and then I did the job over only this time with a repeating pattern. Back on to the bulwarks they went. Better now. I was feeling pretty good about myself now so I attempted the knees by selecting .08 x 1.0 styrene strip. This works out to about 7" x 10" full scale. The results were an absolute disaster. As I said in another post, they were so crooked that they looked like they needed a good orthodontist, So this morning, I decided to yank them all out and start over again. Pretty ugly stuff now but I know that I can smooth the bulwarks over and start over after I learn a little more about what I am doing. Seeing that I needed a change of pace, I moved over to preparing the spar deck and happily things went went quite well. I don't have that nifty drill press that Evan has so I had to resort to a steady hand and a strong filing arm but here is what I came up with: Also, I have been playing around with the quarterdeck windows. I ran and didn't walk to West Valley Hobbies but alas the K & S PE gratings are gone forever. Mike Sanchez of WVH assures me though that said gratings can be had through Plastruct or another vendor. In the meantime I played around with cutting tiny little 1mmX9mm styrene pieces but didn't find that too satisfying. So here I am folks deciding which direction to take next. Thanks for reading. Verne
  19. While in the process of cleaning out our storage bin in preparation for a major move later this summer, i came across a kit that we had bought several years ago when on a visit to Maine. Figured it was time to dust it off and maybe give this one a try when I need a change of pace from the other ones!
  20. This will be an abbreviated log up to where I am now with my build. Here it is right out of the box. Starting to put the frame together. Closeup of the first error with the kit. There pre-cut spacers for the frames and the kit included not enough long spacers and too many short spacers. So this is my solution. Here I am assembling the deck beams. A shot of the assembled frames and deck beams. Note: If I was to do this over I would have not followed the directions and would have completed the the internal part of the model from the hold up. There was limited space for getting all the stuff between the decks.

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