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Hello all, This is my first ever model and my first time posting on this forum. As a bit of background, I am a grad student in my early 20's. I suspect this places me firmly in the minority regarding the demographics of this forum. I consider myself to possess a reasonable engineering/technical background for my age. I have somewhat good access to tools and consumables for the purposes of this build. My interest in ships of this era stems mostly from naval fiction and non-fiction literature. As such I am unfamiliar with some of the terminology involved in shipbuilding. The HMS Fly kit from Victory Models was represented to me as a solid choice for a "confident beginner". I hope to inherit some of the knowledge from the experienced modelers on this forum, and those that have also built this kit before. Here are the box and contents that I received back in August: Photos of the build progression to follow in subsequent posts. -Starlight- 57 replies
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So, my build log of the Pegasus kit from Victory. I’m not going to describe the kit contents as there are quite a few build logs here on MSW that do exactly that, the latest being that by Mugje. The first task was to read the instructions carefully, at least as far as the first planking, examine the plans and read the already existing build logs. The second task was to repeat the first to ensure that I had a more than reasonable grasp of what was to be involved in starting this build. Unfortunately, the result of all this reading was information overload, but anyway, on with the build. As well as the information in the build logs, I will occasionally refer to the "The Fully Framed Model" by David Antscherl and Greg Herbert. After numbering, the false keel and the bulkheads were removed from their sheets and trial fitted. All slots had to be eased slightly as the fit was just a little bit too tight. It was noticed that bulkhead 13, the last one, was not properly centered when slotted fully home onto its tab - it was slightly shifted to starboard. The slot in the bulkhead was widened with a few passes with a file to correct this. The false keel has to be thinned near the sternpost to allow for the thickness of the two layers of planking to closely match the width of the sternpost. To do this, the bearding line first needed to be drawn on the false keel as the thinning starts here. The kit plans do not show this, and in looking at the logs there is some variation in builders’ interpretation of where this line should be. I drew my line so that it clipped the fore edges of bulkheads 9-12 and finished under the filler block (part 16). A 2mm wide strip of wood was spot glued to the rear of the false keel to aid in sanding the false keel to the needed thickness. The bearding line was continued along the keel as a marker for a rabbet here, and then along for the stem rabbet. Although Chris Watton in one of his posts says that a keel rabbet was unnecessary, I decided to cut one for the experience. A knife cut was made along the line using a steel rule to keep it straight. A chisel was then used to pare the MDF to give the rabbet. A 2mm wide wood strip was spot glued along the bottom of the false keel to guide the depth of the cut and then removed. A similar method was used to cut the rabbet at the stem. The MDF cut easily. The walnut stem and the two keel parts were glued to the false keel. The stern post was not fitted at this time to allow easy sanding of the first planking at the stern. The rabbet at the stem completed. I’d decided to mount the Pegasus on pedestals, so mounting holes, for 3mm bolts, had to be drilled through the base, the pedestals, the (real) keel and far enough into the false keel to give secure mounting. Captive nuts were epoxied into slots cut near the end of the holes in the false keel and small pieces of ply were epoxied over these for additional strength and to help in preventing the nut from turning. The only 3mm bolts I could find locally were too short for my need, so two bolts were joined to form one by expoxying them into a brass sleeve which was then crimped. I thought epoxy rather than solder was more than sufficient. The bolts were run in and out repeatedly to ensure that there was no binding or glue blocking the holes. The ends of the bolts were rounded to enable them to easily “find” the nuts. Trial mounting onto the pedestals. The bulkheads, the false lower deck and the main, fore and aft decks were trial fitted and then removed. The slots in the main deck needed slight easing to enable it to be fitted without undue force. The lower deck, bulkheads and pre-shaped infill blocks were then glued in place on the false keel. Infill blocks were glued in between bulkheads at bow and stern. I used scrap wood that I had rather than buying a sheet of balsa, so the appearance is not as neat as others. After several hours sanding, the hull was apparently faired. Upon checking with a strip of wood though, I found the same problem with BH7 as Mugje did. (To confuse things, Mugje in subsequent posts referred to the bulkhead as BH6, though the photos are clearly that of BH7).That is, the strip does not fair smoothly past BH7, but there is a gap between it and the bulkhead. The gap was more prominent at the top of the bulkhead and decreases towards the keel, and is the same on both sides of the hull. It would seem that either BH7 is slightly undersized, or the adjacent bulkheads are slightly oversized. More gentle sanding was done on bulkheads 5,6,8 and 9 but even so, the fairing still was not smooth. So, a shim strip was glued to BH7 and finally, after BH7 was sanded, a fair run from BH5 through to BH9 was achieved. Although totally unnecessary, the lower deck was partly planked below the main hatch. Antscherl describes the kingplank of the lower deck as being 3 inches thick and, as the remainder of the deck planking is 2 inches thick, it stands proud by 1 inch. So a kingplank 1mm thick was laid, and with the other planks being 0.6mm thick, it stands proud by about 1 inch equivalent. Not that anybody's ever going to see this. The stern counter pieces were glued into their slots. The quarterdeck was positioned to ensure that the outer pieces were angled inwards correctly. A minor amount of sanding was required to fair these. The main deck was glued in place and is ready for planking. Cheers. -
KIT: HMS PEGASUS (1776) Manufacturer: Amati (Italy) Scale: 1:64 (800 мм/31,5") ⚓️Official store: https://store.amatimodel.com/en/box-mounting-victory-by-amati/product-hms-pegasus-b130005.html- 25 replies
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Hi Hopefully i've set my title correctly. First time doing a build log of anything online before, hoping it will be itneresting to others and me. I've made a few plastic models of various things over the years but am using my incalculable time sat on my own at home to take up a new hobby, building boats out of wood and string. I started a few weeks ago with an 18th century longboat and was genuinely surprised at how well it turned out, so i've moved onwards and upwards and am now tackling The HM Cutter Lady Nelson by Victory Models. I've seen quite a few logs of this ship by new builders so hopefully it was a good one to chose, the box says 'A perfect introduction' so maybe it won;t scare me off I believe it is customary to show some pictures of the box and the contents It honestly looks like a pile of not very much at the moment and the instructions just say stuff like 'Using the drawings make up the bowsprit, bits and belaying racks' and if i'm honest i don't really know what any of those things are but i plan to follow the order of things from the Longboat and hopefully i'll figure out the other stuff as i go along- 49 replies
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Build log HMS Bellerophon Introduction A model of a ship of the line from the Napoleonic wars was something I wanted to build for a long time. From the range of kits available I ended up with 2 favourites. The selection of those two was because of kit quality (should be good), scale and size of the finished model. As my last 4 projects were all in 1/64 I tended towards the same scale. Finally I had to choose between Caldercrafts Agamemnon (64) and Victory models Vanguard (74). The decision for Vanguard was made because of the following points: - the 74 is the classical ship of the line -I can build the Bellerophon variant which I like for her direct connection with Napoleon (Here, in Switzerland, he had a much bigger influence (not all negative) than Nelson). - copper plates are of better quality - the scale is with 1/72 close enough to my favoured one and... - the overall size is 10% less. As additional information source I will use Brian Laverys book 'The 74-gun ship Bellona' from the Anatomy of the Ship series. After checking the available build logs and comparing them with the Bellona plans as well as with the Bellerophon plan in 'The Ships of Trafalgar' I think that I will check and perhaps alter a few points: - The bulwark of the quarter deck must probably be lower in its forward part to be similar to Bellerophon plans in the internet or to Bellona's profile. I will have to find out if the heightened bulwark was an later alteration and if it was in place in 1805. However in the book 'The ships of Trafalgar' is a plan for the Bellerophon which shows the lower bulwark variant. plan from the kit... ...and from the one available from NMM (on my wish list) The rail on top of the foremost gun ports is here interrupted. On other plans it is running through in one piece. As Bellerophone's skipper I will install a continuous rail (looks smarter). - The kit's gun carriages are very nicely cast and show a lot of details - but look different from all the examples available in books or the internet. I have no idea where they found a prototype like that. Replacing them would be a lot of work and money. I will try to rework them a bit. - The dummy guns on the lower deck are not quite satisfactory. Possible solutions would be replacements by full guns (again expensive and requiring a lot of work for an mediocre improvement) or the installation of 'dummy carriages' similar to those used by Michael (md1400cs) on his fantastic Vasa. - The stern should gain a bit more transparency. I could make lighter side galleries and leave a door to them open. I guess to change the whole stern construction to enlarge the visible part of cabin and wardroom would be too much work for a small and hardly visible gain. However the taffrail overhanging the skippers balcony seems to low - overshadowing the cabin windows. The Bellona model looks a bit different. I will try to cut back that overhang a bit. - The question if any, how and what sails will be bent on will be decided when starting on the masts. - I haven't decided yet if the colour scheme will be pre- or post-1800. The Nelson scheme has a dark elegance but hides the wood... -
Hi all this will be used as a log for my build of the Amati HMS Fly. I have never built a wooden ship and have only built plastic ships for about a year so most of this is very new to me, including the terms—which I will hopefully learn along the way. I will likely move very slowly because I’m nervous to make a mistake, but please offer any and all advice you have. I’ll gladly accept it all. Forgive me in advance for my dumb questions I’m sure I’ll ask. I haven’t don’t much yet, but I started to dry fit the keel and bulkheads. I will hopefully start the beveling process soon. —Tim- 151 replies
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Hi ladies and guys, After old contents of MSW were lost, I haven’t much time to restore my building log. Perhaps the reason why I couldn’t have been managed any spare time is my habit of laziness. But some sense of diligence in my heart finally won against laziness and it’s time to restore and restart my log. My restoration of log is based on “cut and paste” workings from old contents salvaged from google cache or from my computer. So some remains of “patch work” would be unavoidable. It would be appreciated that readers allow some inconvenience in my log. The kit English 74 gun ships are one of my favourite types of ships. It is often said that 74 gun ships are good compromise of power and manoeuvrability. I think this can be equally said to their appearance. To my eyes they have both of majesty of ships of the line and swiftness of frigates. Anyhow they are beautiful ships. Before the release of Amati/Victory Models Vanguard kit, the only commercially available kit of English 74 was HMS Bellona from Corel as far as I know. This is popular kit but I often heard modellers had to take many efforts to build more correct model from that kit. Also modellers may feel frustration to build precise replica in relatively small 1/100 scale, although it doesn’t take much space for building and display. So I determined to buy Vanguard kit soon after I found it on the internet. Coincidentally my purchase place is online-hobbies.com. I didn’t know this shop is operated by kit designer Chris Watton and his wife till I received order confirmation mail from them. As can be seen on many modellers’ building log, Vanguard is very popular kit. While this is the kit of 3rd rate ship, its quality is definitively 1st rate. Of course modellers may find something to be improved, but it would be easier than improving Corel Bellona. Amongst three sister ship options provided in the kit, I choose Bellerophon because of her distinguished service career. Maybe she is one of most famous 74 and many forum members would have experience to read “The Billy Ruffian” written by David Cordigly. In the next posting I will start log from construction of dummy frames.- 126 replies
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So the journey begins. I'd been planning on getting into building model ships and what better excuse than the quarantine to start? After some online research, I picked the Amati Lady Nelson. Then I needed tools. I basically had nothing since I had downsized into a small cottage from a 4-bedroom house and had to sell/giveaway most every tool I had accumulated over 30 years. Boy, it wasn't cheap to restock and I included a starter airbrushing kit from Master Airbrush and a spray booth. Was not willing to brush paint all what needed to be painted. Also, it was a scramble to get tools; most of the modeling sites had a lot of out-of-stock for items. Guess a lot of folks are doing the same as me. Then it was looking for help. This site was fairly easy to find and has a lot of good stuff, especially the Build Logs. I also looked for build video logs. Those on Modelers Central were way too expensive. But I did find that Amati released free video build logs of the their Lady Nelson by Models Shipyard. There are 20 of them on Facebook, starting here: https://www.facebook.com/search/top/?q=Amati Modellismo lady nelson&epa=SEARCH_BOX . The builder takes some different paths from the Amati instructions, such as beveling the bulkheads AFTER adding them to the false keel. After comparing his approach to what I found in the build logs and other tutorials here, I decided to follow his process, supplemented with tips from the MSW logs. The most comprehensive MSW log I found for this ship was by vossiewulf. Wow, he is one master builder! Anybody know why he didn't finish it? Too bad; I would have loved to see the final product. Anyway, as to my build. Below is where I am. One issue I ran into was while beveling the bulkheads: the false deck popped up at the edges, not by much, but it did flatten the deck somewhat. When I first glued the deck, it had a bigger curve to it, port to starboard. I didn't see a problem with that. After it popped up, I decided to leave it. It still had the curve, just not as pronounced. I looked at the the MS logs and he had the same gaps at the edges that I had, so I don't seem too worried. Here's the bow: And the stern: The MS builder used a marker to highlight the filler blocks and the deadwood before beveling to show what had to be taken off. I also had to take some of the deck off here since it overhung the last bulkhead. I guessed that was needed based from what I saw from the MS logs. The only issue I had at this point was supporting the gluing of the outside stern counter frames into their slots. With the bulkhead beveling, I had removed most of what those frames would stick to. So I glued 2 x pieces of the 1mm plywood sheet underneath the deck between the last two bulkheads. See below. Those frames are not going to move. So I'm off to attach the 3 x keel pieces and then move onto the first planking. Some observations: The MS builder avoided using balsa bulkhead filler blocks between the bow and stern bulwarks. When I saw that technique in the MSW logs, I did think that was a bit overkill for this small ship. I figured two sets of hull planking would eliminate having to deal with the thick filler blocks. Surprised vossiewulf went there. Also, he and others had the tools to easily make those blocks; I don't. Comments anybody? The MS builder's plan for tapering the planks involves calculating how much to take off on either end based on mathematical formulae which I found easy to comprehend. When I looked at planking guidelines here, it appeared to involve drawing lines on the bulwark edges or lines, bow to stern, on a fully filler-block loaded hulls and then taking measurements. That seemed a little tedious so I'm planning on following the MS builder's plan. Also, he planes off what needs to go . Some of the MSW log techniques appear to draw a line on the planks and then utilize a craft knife to remove the excess. I'm going with planing the edge off a plank held in a vise. Final painting scheme is still fluid. My current thinking is (comments welcome): Hull: White paint from the bottom to the waterline. (Maybe tinged with a little green or maybe grey.) Walnut paint from the waterline to the main whale (maybe walnut stain) Black paint main wale Walnut paint from top of main wale to the top of the hull, including the upper wale (Again, maybe walnut stain) Black paint for capping rail. (Any reason I shouldn't paint the rails before attaching them? Obliviously need to deal with the pin holes, but not a big deal compared to painting the rails in place.) Deck: Carriage red for the bulwark side planks. Same for hatches and the frames walnut (flipped from what I see on the MSW logs, but the Italian version of MSW showed that and I thought it had a better look.) Red for the gun carriage, flat black for the guns. As for the rigging of these, I see vossiewulf tried but then abandoned to rig with them with 2 x side tackles and 2 x train tackles and went with just 1 x centered train tackle because there was no room on the deck for all that rigging. I will follow his lead on that. Natural for the deck, no paint. The MS builder used, as a deck scraper, a piece of thick glass and that gave it a nice look. I'm trying to find a piece of glass; may break a window! Off I go; wish me luck...John- 24 replies
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I'm going to slowly re-create my build log on Lady Nelson I published on another forum. I've left that forum never to return so I'd like to have an active version of the build log I completed there. The rest of this post and this log is my posting my off-line copy of that build log. I hope perhaps it might help someone new to modeling. For me this simple kit was a reintroduction after and extended absence. I'll throw a few [NOTES] in it as I go, the log was started originally in January 2020. So here goes: ------------------- I started all my ship builds with a purpose; I learned the process with the AVS practicum, developed technique and accuracy with the Granado, painted with exotic woods to achieve color differentiation with the fully framed Fair American, achieved what I could of historical accuracy with Pegasus with plans from the Maritime museum and Antscherl's books, built a “74” with Vanguard. After 8 models I was done, finishing the last in 2017. Ultimately though I missed the building part so I recently purchased the Lady Nelson. It’s a small ship but the process is the same, it’s a nice model to spend time with, without spending a LONG time building it. My detailed build logs for the Fair American, Pegasus, and Granado were lost due to infamous system crash on Model Ship World, though the somewhat abbreviated Vanguard log is still there. Sadly I wasn’t smart enough to keep offline copies then. So, in the hopes of providing some entertainment, help with building models, or demonstrating how not too depending on your viewpoint here’s my log for the Amati Lady Nelson. The kit, despite the small craft, is another well designed Victory model series designed by Chris Watton, although he informs me it was 30 years ago. The material, parts, plans, are all of good quality. I [then] only build from kits by Amati or Caldercraft, I am confident I’ll have a good start when I open the box. [NOTE: I'm since a bigger fan of Vanguard Models and Syren Ship Model company. My current build is the HM Cutter Cheerful, link below.] I’ve reached the point where I’m far more dependent on the plans than instructions. That’s good in this case because the plans are well done and the instructions are surprisingly brief. I’m not sure a beginning modeler would get what they need with them, so then the importance of a website like Model Ship World to seek additional help. Without being overly critical the MDF in my kit is a bit soft and the walnut laser cut part sheets are too brittle, I’ve already broken and repaired a few parts despite being careful in removing them from the sheets. I would still buy the kit, maybe my wasn’t stored in the best place at the store I purchased it from. It doesn’t deter my recommendation for Amati Victory series models. I have a kit and now a job to do, who says retirement is boring.- 45 replies
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I have been working on Pegasus for a year and a half, and am just now starting the build log. Aside from the beauty of the ship, I chose Pegasus for the wealth of guidance available here on MSW (thank you in advance, I need a lot of help). At this point I have completed through the first planking and the build has progressed normally with few surprises. This is a very good kit, but like many, it begs for some scratch and sub kit “improvements”. My first choice is new capstans based on TFFM. Looking at these now, I need to finish some details. The main deck begged for cabins, which provided a distraction from assembling the “big bones”. Working from scratch allows some design work and creativity. Trial fit of cabin partitions. Dave B -
I was looking for something different after the long haul voyage with the Bounty, and picked up this Scottish motor fishing vessel from Amati last year. It’s a beautiful kit that looks very good quality. Seems a good choice for a first build given the clarity of the plans and instruction, and anybody else. I’m not entirely sure where I’ll go with it in terms of the overall interpretation but we will see. The basic frame goes up straight, fast and trouble free because of the quality of the design and fabrication. There’s a large hatch area in the centre of the vessel that I might leave at least partially open, so I’ve built a simple enclosure under spanning a couple of frames. I’m imagining this will eventually house a pile of fish crates, nets and other fishing paraphernalia. I’ve incorporated a door to the forward cabins and rear hatch to what would presumably be the motor areas, but not detailing anything outside the hold area as it won’t really be visible. Easier to install and finish the enclosure now in pieces while the frames are still open. The walls are planking on solid panels, with a simple deck floor on sleepers over the mdf base to level it up. Enough goofing around with this, time to do the planking... -
--------------------------------------------------------------------- Build Name: HMS Fly - Amati Models - 1:64 Start Time: May 10, 2021 Status: Preparing Materials and Reading Manuals --------------------------------------------------------------------- (This status bar will be constantly updated) Hello everyone, this is Jacob Yao. I joined this site 4 months ago but haven't posted much. This HMS Fly kit from Amati Model is my second build. My first build is Lady Nelson (Amati), on which I made quite a lot of mistakes. So this time I want to spend some time on reading manuals and planning the build sequence. I bought some books about nautical history and I'll start my actual build when I think the necessary knowledge and materials are prepared. Here are some photos of the kit: The Upgrade kit is on the way and I'll post photos when it arrives. I really want that little boat, so cute XD. To save your screen space, the images that are "not so important" will be stitched like above. I'll also update the status info bar constantly for future visitors. Thanks for your reading and any advices or opinions will be welcomed (In case you are interested in my first build, here's some pics.)- 2 replies
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The Lady Nelson will be my very first ship build. A few months ago I built a plastic model ship and had a lot of fun doing it, however it was very straight forward and didn't provide much of a challenge. After doing some research I found this website, and after reading some of the posts I decided on this to be my first build. It just arrived today! I was very excited and wanted to get started straight away. However I calmed myself down and made sure to go through all of the plans and instructions. After not being able to understand the instructions completely I decided to hold off on starting and doing some more research, as well as getting some more tool/materials that I will need as I progress. I am very excited to be joining this community and look forward to learning, messing up, but most of all to enjoy myself! I would appreciate any help and advice you guys could give, and I will be updating this log once I'm comfortable enough to begin my build.- 8 replies
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Hi All. I'm new to the forum and even newer to wooden ship builds. IAs a kid, I did a few plastic models, but have always been fascinated by the beauty of wooden model ships. I do have an strong affiliation to ships and the sea, having spent 21 years in the Royal Navy. So I've ordered the model and it is due to arrive next week, but I've seen a few of the build logs and realised that I'm going to need more than a couple of pairs of tweezers and a bucket of glue. Is there a good tool combination set that anyone is aware of? I've hunted the interweb, but haven't found anything that caught my eye. Otherwise, elsewhere on the forum is there a list of recommended equipment for a first build? Sorry for the rather basic questions, but I don't even know what glues, paints and varnishes etc are required. Do the kit instructions contain such a list? Thanks for caring! Happy Holidays and Stay Safe Skully- 15 replies
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My four year build log has alas fallen victim to the latest system upgrade, and like the ship she represents is now presumed lost, as Pegasus was in 1777. To re-instate all the information contained within the orginal log which ran for over 100 pages is a bit of an ask but where I can pick up the information quickly I will include it in this replacement log with priority being given to specific aspects where I have modified the basic kit, to produce the model which is now allbut finished. My log which was first posted in 2013 lacked much of the earlier stages of the build which had been going since 2010, and this revision will include aspects of the earlier build stages which may assist those embarking on a new Swan build adventure. I would like to thank all those members who have shown interest in my build over the past four years, and for the many appreciative comments and 'likes' I received. I still can't believe that over 257,000 visits were made to the log, but it is nice to think that it was of use to the membership. Also thank you to those who have messaged me with kind words about the loss of the original log, and with offers of help. Hopefully this revised version, risen from the ashes, will continue to provide useful information to the membership, particularly those involved with Swan Class Sloops. B.E. 5th March 2017- 351 replies
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Greetings everyone -- Here I am venturing on a new log and a new build. First off, even before posting any photos, I want to mention that the reason I'm building The Fly is that back in August of 2011 (this was obviously in the Edenic days of MSW 1.0), I noticed an announcement that a kit had been donated to MSW and was available to anyone willing to make a reasonable donation. The requested donation was significantly less than the market price of the kit. And, well, I'm the person who made the donation and got the kit. So here's yet another reason MSW has supported Ship Modelling! To the build. First photo, The Box: This makes it official that I am modelling The Fly 1776. (Note the tidiness of my workspace.) As I took out all the pieces, I thought they looked pretty doggone good. I've been looking at the different sheets of drawings (Tavole? Excuse my Italian if that isn't the correct plural of Tavola). They seem pretty clear, though I began to wonder about certain details that I wanted to see. Ok, now I'm getting started: This is the plywood sheet of Bulkheads that I spent last evening cutting and snapping out. As I was doing so, two questions came to mind. The first has to do with the Captain's Cabin -- and this question arose largely from reading the logs of other builders of The Fly and Pegasus -- If I did want to have an actual cabin (and I do), and not just an external depiction of one, then I would have to do some refashioning of those aft-most bulkheads. Something to think about there, and maybe now's the time? Second question: Here you can see The Fly's stem piece alongside a prototype of sorts that I made for my previous build, The Rattlesnake. The stem for The Fly is walnut, and fits into the keel with all the ease of a work of nature. But it's a single piece. The stem I made for the Rattlesnake consists of multiple pieces of boxwood jointed together with scarphs, which strikes me as being more historically accurate. Now, I am thinking, thinking (and maybe too much) that at least some planking with boxwood would look nice. On the other hand, I have admired the coppered bottoms of several other builds, and if I went that route the scarphing joints would be covered. Since I don't have the actual plans of The Fly or any Swan Class Sloop, deciding how to mark and cut the pieces for the stem would entail a good bit of guess work. And guess work contradicts "historical accuracy." One more factor in this decision: I looked over Greg Herbert's account of building the stem, and saw that he used a mill. Well, my work bench is complete, and it's time to mount my mill. Here's where my decision stands at the moment: I have the boxwood stock, so I think I'll do some configuring, cutting, and gluing, and see how it looks. If it's a bust, I can always use the kit supplied piece. Cheers, for now, and please feel free to comment, make suggestions, warnings, etc. Martin -
Hello, and welcome to my second topic! This one will be a proper log, as I am still pretty early in the build. Another HMS Fly by Amati/Euromodels, which I must say is a brilliant kit and a pleasure to build! So far, I've painted the hull and made a start with the decorations and stern. I went for a fully-painted hull, so I kind of blasted through the planking without spending too much time on the second planking. I think there is very little chance any parts of the hull were left in natural wood, and I prefer realism, so I went for a full pain-job. Pleased with the strakes and main whale, they came out pretty symmetric. Still to add a waterline and paint the bottoms white, but the paint kit came with a 'whitewash' that is very watery (actually more like a wash than a paint), so I don't have white to use and the nearest source of any paint is a 140 mile roundtrip for me 😂, so it will have to wait. The box and some materials and tools I was missing. Pretty exciting moment, when you open a box, isn't it? Frames on the keel, looking good. Started with fairing the frames to match the hull curvature. I did not add any fillers; I prefer taking more time to bend the planks to the right curve before I put them on, so they don't need too much support underneath. So that the final thickness on the skeg is not much more than the keel, I had to file off a lot of MDF in that area. My workshop. I am lucky enough to have the man-cave I always wanted as a kid 😂 -
1:64 Revenge 1577 – Elizabethan Race Built Galleon Amati/Victory Models Catalogue # A1300/08 The Elizabethan Navy Royal warship Revenge was built at Deptford and launched in 1577. Revenge was a new type of warship, a ‘Race Built Galleon’. She was built following the direct ion of Sir John Hawkins and supervised, it is thought, by the master shipwright, Matthew Baker. Revenge was about 500 tonnes and carried a crew of around 250 men. Contrary to popular belief, the new race-built galleons were not dwarfed by the Spanish galleons but were of equal or sometimes larger size. It is very easy to see the lines of Revenge as a precursor to the Prince Royal of 1610, the Sovereign of the Seas of 1637, or even the Prince of 1670. The armament of ships of this period varied greatly; guns might be added, removed or changed for many different types of reasons. Revenge was particularly heavily-armed during her last cruise. On this, she carried 20 heavy demi-cannon, culverins and demi-culverins on her gun deck, where the sailors slept. On her upper decks were more demi-culverins, sakers, and a variety of light weapons, including swivel-mounted breech-loaders, called ‘fowlers’ or ‘falcons’. She was considered the best all-round warship in the fleet, and in 1588 she served as the flagship of Sir Francis Drake, and was involved heavily throughout the Armada campaign. In 1591, Revenge and her captain, Sir Richard Grenville, both earned their place in history when the Revenge was overtaken by a Spanish fleet off the Azores. Sir Richard Grenville fought the Spanish fleet for 16 hours, crippling and sinking many Spanish ships before being forced to surrender. The kit Revenge 1577 is an Amati/Victory Models joint venture, as was the HMS Vanguard 1787 that I reviewed recently. However, this particular kit was only released in 2015, having been designed by Chris Watton. Like Vanguard, Revenge is packaged into the same monster-sized box so will look pretty imposing when it arrives, plus it will really please your postman who will have to bring it to your door! If you are remotely interested in this particular kit, you will have doubtless headed to Amati’s website for information on this release. That is given as thus: 20 sheets of plans 96 pages full colour building manual with step by step instructions Laser cut plywood, hardwood and MDF Double planked hull Highly detailed photoetched brass parts Precious paper decorations Brass culverins and burnished metal casted cannons …now it’s time to look deeper at this kit. Amati’s artwork for the box is perhaps a little more restrained than that of Vanguard, but still looks equally as impressive, with images of the completed model on the sides of the box. It’s also a fairly weighty box too. When you lift off the lid, you’ll note that the lid is merely decorative, with a single-piece rigid corrugated card box underneath. The lid is secured via large tabs and lifts up to reveal contents. The box is designed to hold large weights within and is very robust. Inside, we have several packets of laser-cut MDF, ply and walnut, a heavy pack with 20 plan sheets, a full-colour perfect-bound instruction manual, bundles of strip wood and dowel, printed flag set, and three large boxes of fittings/components. Everything is packed so as to minimise any movement of items within, and indeed, my sample looked like it had just been packed at the factory. Opening the first components box, we see a pack of sail cloth, just in case you wish to fit them to your model. I know the convention is to leave sails off, but at lease the option is provided for you here. The material is very pale and would benefit from some ageing using whatever your preferred method. Two thick clear bags are now seen, and these include parts for the cannon, in two sizes. The main bags themselves contain some beautiful cast guns with decoration on them, and these have an antiqued finish. I would personally paint these in iron, and the embellishments should look excellent if you then buff them up. Unlike Vanguard, this kit provides wooden gun carriages, machined as a single piece. Again, I am more than happy with this inclusion, and they appear to be walnut. A long piece of thin, narrow copper sheet is included to make the straps from. Two further packs include the eyelets, plus wooden wheels and axles. Very happy with those. Underneath these bags lie a few clear sleeves of photo-etch parts. Here you’ll find parts for the chain plates and for deadeye securing, doors, grates (maybe they were cast iron on these ships?), and also the Royal crest that adorns the transom. This is built up from two layers of PE and will require some painting. Two name plates are also supplied for the base. You will need to paint the lower relief and then drawn the part over fine abrasive paper to remove anything on the upper relief. The second box contains rope, rigging cord, anchor set, culverins, pre-shaped rudder hinges, brass pedestals to mount the model to the base, brass pins, copper eyelets, etc. Our last box has more goodies for the rigging, such as various-sized deadeyes, blocks and belaying pins etc. You will also find here some brass wire, cast figurehead ornamentation, barrels, stair kit, and parrel beads. All components are securely bagged within their own compartments. Amati include some nice timbers in their releases, and here we have bundles of strip wood for the double planked hull (lime for first plank), deck etc. The deck planking actually has a paper identifying tag. Dowel is of walnut, and again, quality is excellent. A single sheet of laser-cut ply contains the channels and rear gallery doors etc, and a further three sheets of ply are taken over with more channels, facings for the cabin access bulkhead, and the unusual Tudor circular mast-tops. Two small sheets of wood (not ply) contain rudder and windlass parts, chain knees, and the lower keel. All parts are finely cut and will of course require any charring to be removed, although this is a fairly quick job. Two reasonably large sheets of ply contain the beak grate platform, transom, and more bulkhead walls with pre-cut windows and doors. These will of course be individually planked, and various timber fittings and rails added to them. Smaller parts can be found here too, such as cannon shot garlands and rigging cleats. A further two thick ply sheets hold parts for the various decks, with the exception for the lowest main deck. The largest ply sheets are fairly thin and for good reason, as they contain the upper bulwarks and sides with the gun port positions pre-cut. These will need to conform to the concave curvature of the hull at that point, hence the thinness of them. They are also joined by an interlocking pattern, so you achieve the correct placement of them. More laser-cut ply here, with garlands, rudder and forward bow keel section etc. Five MDF sheets contain all main constructional components, such as the false keel, bulkheads, lowest main deck, deck beams etc. Whilst the curved sides of the bulkheads look very fragile, several builds here on MSW show that there shouldn’t be any real concern as long as you exercise some care and attention. You will doubtless have noticed that instead of the carved embellishments we see on later and Spanish vessels etc, this Tudor warship has coloured panels along the outer bulwarks etc. Thankfully, you won’t need to paint these at all as they are provided as pre-printed items. Now, the paper they are printed on is heavier than writing paper and is of a type which means that the printing won’t fade. I’m presuming it’s all acid-free paper etc too. Printing is super-high quality and against a wooden texture background for a reason I can’t fathom. Still, these look amazing when added and really bring the vessel to life. All paper parts are numbered, and sections of the sheet listed as for right/left side. There are 20 sheets of plans for this model, but as well as parts maps which cover several pages, the remainder generally looks to contain information for masting and rigging the ship, plus adding the sails, if you wish. There are other illustrations of the model too, but the hull and fitting out is mostly done using the instruction manual. When it comes to instruction manuals, Amati really do go to town. Their latest releases, such as the Orient Express Sleeping Car, contain glossy, full-colour photographic instruction booklets with clear English text (Italian also shown). Each stage of the build is clearly shown, and nothing should be ambiguous with this particular presentation. Lastly, unlike most model kits, this one does include a base, as previously mentioned. This is machined from MDF and will need sealing and rubbing back before painting. The edges of this are profiled too. With the brass pedestals and name plates, this should look very nice when complete. Conclusion This model was released in 2015 and comes from the stable of those designed by Chris Watton. Unlike his Nelson’s-era kits, this little gem doesn’t seem to get the recognition is deserves, although as I say, we do have some logs of the build here on MSW. Tudor warships, for me, really are beautiful in their style and execution. I’m a big fan of the Mary Rose (for which I also have a kit), but this particular vessel is more ornate than the Mary Rose and has the galleon-style features that we expect from a ship of this period. Timber quality is excellent, as are the various fittings, and of course, the instructions means that you shouldn’t go wrong during your build. The pre-cut gun ports and jigsaw bulwarks will also ensure a trouble-free project. Cornwall Model Boats currently lists this model for £364.99, and I think that represents really good value for money for a ship of this size (Length: 885mm, Width: 380mm, Height: 655mm) My sincere thanks to Amati for sending out this kit for review here on Model Ship World. To purchase, head over to your favourite Amati-stockist of online retailer)
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Hello all. After completing Bluenose this will be my 2nd build. This time I wanted something with guns. There is a lot of very tempting kits and finally decided to go with Mercury, which attracted me even when I was buying my first kit. The first impression is that this kit is of very high quality. Instructions are one of the best I have ever See, especially I like separate plan sheets for rigging which will be quite a job to do. My plans: -I like natural finish of wood as seen on NMM Greenwich models. This mean that most of the model is going to be unpainted, and I am going to change A LOT of materials provided in kit. For most of the build I am planning to use pear wood, maple And some walnut. As Ebony I will stain pear wood. Today I received wood from Germany (2nd picture) . -There will be no coopering on hull, reason is above. -Deck planking. Laser engraved plywood deck looks good, but not good enough for me. I will most likely use maple, but have pear For backup. As this is my second build and still don't wont to overcomplicate it I am thinking to use "normal" straight Pattern for planking like on brig Syrene for example, instead of curvature shape. -Armament. From personal aspect I like the look of guns instead of carronades on deck more. Don't ask me why, just like them . So I am still in research if there is any possibility that Mercury carried guns before carronades or has sister ship. This can be Seen on HMS Cruizer (guns) vs. HMS Snake (carronade) and Le Cyclope vs. Le Cygne. I have already purchased 6pdr Guns but will wait with that. If anyone could help me with this information I would very appreciate it. -Sails. I am planing to do Mercury with partially set sails Well, that's it for the moment. -
Seems to be a required rite of passage to publicly flail your way through a first build. For introductions, name is Jay and I'm director of production support for the MAP division at Visa that includes Cybersource and Authorize.net. That means I'm on call 24/7. So, no stress or anything. When it comes to the subject at hand I'm something of a ringer though, as I have extensive experience making small precise stuff in many materials, and I have two entire rooms dedicated to workshop. One is for medium-sized power tools and a small scale machine shop (mini-lathe, mini-mill, etc.), other is primarily a woodworking area for hand tool work (this is where ships will be set up). Well three rooms because the semi-finished "bonus room" has my full-sized table saw and I have plans for a Laguna bandsaw to go in there too. And I've already spent a couple years reading extensively on the ships and the building techniques while working on my game, which also needs to continue to make progress, called Line of Battle. Anyway, I have a crapton of tools and my home is arranged around my workshop areas, so you can assume I am divorced and have no constraints The plan for now, and I already have all the kits, is to go Lady Nelson -> brig Syren -> MS Constitution -> Victory HMS Revenge -> Caldercraft Victory. But I also want to do some very small scale also, we'll see. Since this part is uninteresting, only a couple photos - one of squaring up the transom bulkhead and the assembled frame. In case you're wondering, all my little brass flat sanders that are used with PSA paper were machined perfectly square so I don't need to fiddle with heavy machinist's squares except for outside 90s. In case you're wondering, it's being held in a GRS engraver's block. But anyway all clean and straight and square and ready to go to next steps. Planned next step is balsa filler blocks at bow and stern, and to make things super easy on myself I'm probably going to fill in the first three gaps on both ends, so everywhere significant bending is occurring I'll have a surface to work against. However, need some advice on wood. I bought the Crown Timber boxwood package for this, so I have a bunch of boxwood coming. However, I have my own wood and don't want to do it 100% in boxwood, whatever I don't use will get used later in something else. Right now what I'm thinking of is cocobolo for the keel, wales, and rails, lightly stained boxwood planking, and a holly deck. BTW these 1x1x12 American holly turning blanks are available at Woodcraft for $10, good deal if you can resaw to scale timber. However, I'm not sure about the cocobolo, the color of course is great but it has pretty strong grain and figure and may not look good in this small build. Also I'm not sure about the idea of having a keel/stem darker than the main planking. Anyway, advice appreciated, as I'll have this ready for the keel and planking soon. I know, I'll plank it in snakewood. Cut this into 4mm strips, cut in half (it's 5/16" thick) and then plank both sides with strips in the exact order we see here Just kidding of course. That's a $150 guitar fingerboard blank and will be used for that purpose in the future. -
I have just purchased victory models HMS Fly, I think I may be the first to do a build log for this model. While I am waiting for it to arrive I will be constructing a build board and sorting out my work area. Brian -
Hi. I started the relations of the model HMS fly. I try to make caulking with the black cotton thread. Two first rows of the planks are bad, but on this will be deck and it will not be seen. http://www.koga.net.pl/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=47195&p=84654#p84654 -
After completing some plastic model kits, I decided I needed to try a wooden model. Internet research pointed me to the Lady Nelson by Amati and I'm really happy with the quality of materials and clarity of instructions. Much better than the plastic model kits! This was a challenge for me also because I have no real woodworking experience at all, but I'm really loving it so far. I started this several weeks ago and only recently decided to join the forum, so most of the woodworking, finishing, and painting is out of the way, but to catch you up: I mostly followed the Modeler's Shipyard DVD that Amati has put online on their Facebook page. I found it to be a really helpful resource. I feel okay about the fairing job on the hull, but knowing now how planks lie I'm sure I'd take a bit more time and care with my next ship. One of the biggest mistakes I made was tapering the first layer planks from the wrong bulkheads, so there's a little bulge towards the bow. It didn't end up causing too much of a problem after sanding and filling. Not very proud of the first layer of planking, but it was sufficient in providing a solid smooth base for the second layer, which I took much more time and care with. The second layer went on like a dream. I was more careful with the tapering and also set up a rather crude jig to edge bend the planks with steam. I simply soaked the planks for a half hour and then used an electric iron as I bent them around the jig to steam the water out and lock the curve into place. I was a bit sloppy with the first two planks above the garboard plank (shoving splinters instead of spiling properly). I used wood glue/sawdust for filler, but WAY overfilled without removing excess and ended up sanding a layer of hard dried glue off the hull for a whole day. IMG_3090.HEIC I finished the hull with Tung oil, which was satisfying to say the least. IMG_3079.HEICIMG_3086.HEIC Here she is today, with most of the deck furnishings painted or stained and ready to be glued on. The masts and yards (which I had to taper and shape by hand) are finished and painted. What I want to do differently next time: 1. Find better ways to make sure the false deck lies at the proper curve against the bulkheads. I tried pins but they were extremely difficult to get through the deck, and many of them came out while the glue dried. So the deck is less curved than I'd like, and the gunports don't sit at an even distance from the deck. 2. Tapering the planks from the proper location on the first layer of planking 3. Not overdoing the filler that I used between the planks on the second layer of planking (or just making the planks fit tighter), so as not to leave glue on the surface of the hull. I sanded most of it off, but the tung oil revealed some missed spots. 3. I used CA glue with the second layer, which was fast and convenient as I didn't have to do as much shaping of the planks. It was an okay situation, but next time I'll try using wood glue and pins, which will help me get a tighter fit between planks. 4. Break up the deck planking into realistic lengths instead of having them run the full length of the ship. There's a lot more to add to this list, but those are the main issues I've run into so far. That, and just not having money or a car to go out and buy the tools that make things easier! Any constructive criticism or advice moving forward is more than welcome. Thanks for reading!- 11 replies
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Not much to see yet - this is the first planking of the hull just about finished. -
I've just joined up and introduced myself here You've probably seen it all a bunch it times, but here's the frame. I shimmed up the bulkheads with some thin card and they are all in nice a square. I used thick CA for gluing the bulkheads onto the false keel. It does look a little rough, but you won't see it. I glued the deck on with PVA, let it dry overnight and removed the pins. I used the pins in the kit with a nailer. The accuracy with the nailer was a bit hit and miss and I had a couple of goes with some of them. I think I would prefer some map pins or similar - maybe hold/push them in with nose pliers and tap them down... On inspection, I skewed the deck to starboard at the bow and to port at the stern, which was a little disappointing, but I think I can correct this with the deck planking. Off to port by a mm or so at the stern. So far so good (ish). I need to work a bit neater and take more care. Cheers, Stu
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