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  1. This is a commision I undertook for a good friend last year. We had a correspondence through Facebook, whether it was possible to turn his Victory Kit, which was still unopened into a 74. Several ideas and plans were put into consideration. The ship would have no sails or masts, and it would be a kind of "Admirality" type, just the hull sitting on a base resembling a launching cradle. With the exception of the Heller's Superebe and Glorieux, there are no other 74 on the kit market, certainly no british, and seems nobody had done something like that either. The plan was as follows: Rezze Victory by one deck, which was rather troublesome, especially because the bow and rails had to be remodeled. Increase the width of the decks, as they now sit one lower into the tumblehome. Remodel the quarter deck. Remove some gunports, turn the entrance into a gunport and reduce with width of the side ladders. I made it in a relatively good time, and he was very pleased. Here is the built log, I'll slowly updload them all today and tomorow, as I have to work on the bomb ketch as well! Here is the planing, in MS paint:
  2. This is my first build log. I was hesitant to post as this is only my second build, and I am not experienced as a wooden ship modeler, but I thought that I could add some information about the DeAgostini version of this popular model. First some general pros and cons: The best thing is the extent and quality of the instructions - 575 pages of very detailed text and photos, backed up with 63 build videos on YouTube. Even as a novice builder (I have only done the Occre Polaris before this), I have found all the work manageable based on the depth of instructions. I can't comment of the historical accuracy of this kit or relate it to other Victory models. I chose to order the kit in 12 installments, and it is worth your while to check each package thoroughly for parts - 7 of the 10 kits were missing parts. To be fair, they do have a 1-800 number where the reported missing parts were always replaced no charge, but as parts were sent from the UK to their North America office where I purchased the kit from, a delay of 3-4 weeks was common. I have spent the past 10 months working on the kit, so I will post with dates as I progressed until where I am today. On to the build itself. August 2020 Initial parts were nicely packaged, but they soon lost interest in that and sent parts in plastic bags. Most plywood parts were fine, but one bow structure was warped. I used a steam iron on high with some damp towels to flatten the part and pressed it with weights for several days which solved the problem. Later I read about plywood delamination issues - luckily I didn't know about that possibility before I started the process! Parts were cleanly cut with minimal charring, and the early stages were certainly the most satisfying, as assembling the keel and ribs went very quickly. The next steps (perhaps intended to break up the stages of the build) was a mini build in itself constructing one of Victory's launches, which was challenging on its own. A jig was provided to attach the frames to, and then after fairing the frames, a single layer of thin planking was done. After that the usual filling and gentle sanding and then the boat is cut out of the jig and painting started. Duckboards, oars, a windlass, rudder, seats and mast were then prepared and the launch is done to be put aside until the end of the build. I'll continue to post more of the build next time. Thanks for reading - I know that there are lots of mistakes in the build as I am learning as I go!
  3. OK my MSW friends. I am going to need a kick to get me started on my Heller 1/100 HMS Victory. I know it is going to be a long and enjoyable process so I have to eventually get started. I got the kit a good while ago but have only removed the plastic wrapper and peeked inside. Meanwhile I continue working on a previous build but see the box containing that beauty setting there in my peripheral vision. I have spent countless hours reading the build log of other Victory builders. That may be part of my reason for delay. Each time I have my mind set on how I want to proceed once I start I see an idea or technique someone has used and think “Wow that is what I want to do!” So I guess my concern is doing something a certain way then later seeing a better way and being disappointed. My initial internal debate is the process used to paint the hull, especially the stern? I think by far the design of the stern and the paint scheme is so distinctive on the Victory. You see it you know it is the Victory! So beautiful! If you are now building, or did in the past, what was your method to apply the black and yellow ochre.
  4. I had much less of a break after finishing the Alert than I had thought -- got the itch to start this kit, which I have been looking forward to. It's my first Caldercraft kit and I'm interested in the comparison with Amati and Vanguard -- my gold standards up to now. There are a number of build logs on this kit by builders with much better skills than mine, so I don't know how much added value I can provide, but I find these logs fun to share, and what I'll try to focus on (as in this post) are construction details and issues, and how I addressed them. So I've skipped the "what's in the box" opener, because what's in the box is what you'd expect. There are three manuals: one for the hull -- with pictures, one for rigging, and a third for parts -- which is great, as you don't have to wrestle multiple plan sheets up on the wall to figure out the wood panel and other cut sheet parts. I also bought some white posterboard to provide a better backdrop on my workbench for my pictures. I have finished the first phase of the frame: keel, bulkheads and lowest deck. This kit uses 5mm plywood for all of that -- in all of my other kits these parts have been MDF, and based on my experience with MDF where all the parts slide together easily without sanding, I found working with the plywood a challenge. NONE of the slots in the keel, bulkheads, or deck fit without some more-than-trivial widening. Regular sanding would take forever, and I tried a couple of times to use rotary tool sanding disks, but they get chewed up fast. So I found some 3mm rotary burrs on Amazon, and that did the trick. But with 18 bulkheads and 16 double-sided deck slots, it comes out to 68 slots to widen. Got it done, and everything fit together as you can see. This is a heavy ship because of the plywood and its size. I'm looking forward to digging into it. Regards, David
  5. Well, here we go. Thanks to invaluable advice on my members introduction page I've managed to start construction.
  6. Welcome to my ongoing log of my build of HMS Victory by Panart. Although I have modelled in the past, this is my first model ship, working in wood and metal rather than plastics. Having taken on the project with zero knowledge of model shipbuilding and working with wood at such a small scale it has been a great challenge building this ship to the high standard I wanted. I've built up my skills throughout, learning a lot from fellow modellers on this website, and can say this is my favourite project I've ever worked on. At this current stage I'm really happy with the results and would like to share the images of the build as it progresses.
  7. Well, this one has been a LONG time coming. I mean, this lockdown seems to have lasted a lifetime, so the original notice of Amati's now almost mythical 1:64 HMS Victory seems to have been such a long time ago! A lot of water has passed under the bridge since 2013 when Chris drove to Italy with the original design model in late 2013. Amati had enough general interest about their Victory from modellers to warrant then asking me to build a production prototype for the new format instruction manuals they now use. There were a few changes from Chris' original kit too, and Amati wanted those incorporated in the new manuals. Those manuals (yes, plural!) will contain (tentatively) around 1500 build photos, and be perfect-bound, glossy productions. I've already broken down Chris' construction into a multitude of chapters, with each depicting a specific sequence/task. For example, there will be a chapter for building each size of gun, each of the launches, the stove, first planking, but also for fitting out whole decks. For this build, I will use the existing manuals that Chris made when he finished his kit. Since Chris designed the model, Amati's laser manufacturer had changed the specs on sheet size that they could cut, so the sheet layouts needed to be rehashed for the new sizes. That was done earlier this year, but just when everything looked like it was going to plan (again), Italy, then the rest of the world, went into lockdown. So here we now are on the other side....just about. DHL delivered the HUGE box not long ago, and it is fantastically heavy! What is omitted at the moment are some first layer planks that they will ship when back in stock, and the cannon and figurehead. They won't be needed for a long time. They are also waiting on the copper PE, but I do have all the sheets of brass PE here. So, we have bags of laser-cut material (MDF, ply, timber), sleeves of strip (lots of them!), bags of PE and a whole bag of various fittings. I already have the thirty-one sheets of plans. Remember, this isn't a review, but just a build log. I cant review something like this which isn't quite complete. That's not the purpose. Inside the box, all the laser cut parts were bagged into two thick poly sleeves. These packs were of course the real weight behind this delivery. I'll open them later to look through them but I've included a few images they sent me of the parts before they shipped out. The sheer quantity of strip and dowel in this model is bewildering. The only time I've seen as much as this is when I've been in a hobby shop! Fittings. Usually Amati pack these into trays, but for this purpose, all the stuff is in little bags and sleeves and bundled into this substantial bag. You name it, and it's in here... Photo etch: Here's all the brass sheet stuff. I am waiting on the copper parts yet, but thought you'd like to see these. As I've been promising this kit arriving for a long time, I felt the need to stick my flag in the ground and start a build log showing the stuff that I now have. I won't be actually starting this until after 3rd August as I'll be away, plus I also have a project I need to take care of before that (written article, not a build). So....there we have it!!! **Apologies for phone camera pics too. The build will be done like my typical studio photos**
  8. Hello all. I've been a member of this forum for many years, but have never posted a build log before. I'm a little late to the party here, as I started this build over 11 years ago. I actually took a few years off in the middle, and am now in the final laps of this journey. I had made two previous models, and this time I wanted one that had a lot of detail, and was authentic, so I decided on Caldercraft's Victory. It was, in retrospect, a good choice, because there are tons of sites and photos of the actual ship available on the net for research. At this point I have put in a little over 4300 hours in the build, not to mention the hundreds of hours spent in research, making spreadsheets etc. I'm posting here a few pix of the current state of the build, perhaps later I can add some earlier shots as well. I apologize for the quality of some of the photos, as the light in the workshop is pretty poor, and I don't spend a lot of time trying to make them look pretty - they are more for documentation's sake. My build process is a little unorthodox, I guess, at least for the rigging part of it. From prior experience I have learned that fragile pieces sticking out are disasters waiting to happen. Therefore my masting/rigging process went something like this. (Note that all masts and spars have been previously built and have the blocks, etc attached). Install all three lower masts with tops in place and the bowsprit, then add lower shrouds and bobstays. Rattle down all lower shrouds, then add futtock shrouds. Next step is to add all topmasts and the jibboom, then install the topmast shrouds and rattle them down. So, these pix show that the topgallant masts and the flying jibboom are still uninstalled. At some point in the build I had to decide whether or not I wanted to add sails. I was generally disappointed in other sails that I have seen in that the stitching that is supposed to represent the sail seams was way out of scale and was way too apparent and obvious. I spent a fair amount of time developing a procedure for making what I think are more realistic sails, I am happy with them, so I am going for a full suit of sails for her. I also had to make a decision on how to display the model, and after much thought decided to depict Victory as she made her turn to port in her run to break the Combined Fleet's line. Her courses would have been clued up to avoid catching fire from the weather deck's muzzle blasts, and she would have been sailing in a light wind on a port tack. Getting the sails right to suggest this scenario is my current challenge, and I am wrestling with getting the fore course to look right. Presently 3 of the 4 head sails, along with the spritsail and sprit topsail, as well as the fore topsail are in place. After I get the fore course to look right, I will go on to the main course and topsail, followed by the main staysails. Then on to the mizzen - driver and topsail, then the mizzen staysails. The final step will be shipping the topgallant masts and flying jibboom and their sails. Enough for now; I'll add some more pix later on. Thanks for looking
  9. I had a build log on the now apparently defunct "HMS Victory Modeller's Knowledge Repository..." by Pete Coleman, but all this is gone now. I thought I'd just show a handful of progress shots, and the completed project. I never could have built her like she came out without that web site; it's a shame about it. For any readers contemplating a build, know that there are now available seven sheets of brass etch to enhance the kit. Everything from accurate shroud chains to nice stanchions to trigger locks for the cannon. They are superlative, although I only ordered two as this was my first model in decades and I had never seen brass etch to that point in time. You can find the brass etch here: http://www.dafinismus.de/plates_en#anker2 Never served thread before. After reading about serving machines I made one out of my old meccano. Here are the first served shrouds around the foremast head. The deadeye strops are brass etch. I later changed the jeer block lashings to natural colour, just to make them jump. I bought this kit in the early 80's. The decals crumbled to bits when I wet them, so I ordered adhesive vinyl lettering for the figurehead. I painted the false panels blue instead of black because I liked the look with all the other blue trim. The brass etch binnacle, with (barely visible) lantern and compasses. Home-made post and rails at the poop deck ladders. Syren 2mm blocks on the cannon tackle. Larger brass rod belaying pins so my big clumsy hands could tie off to them. Notice the brass etch boarding pikes on the mainmast. Hammock netting from HobbyLobby, on brass etch stanchions. Added brass handrails down the main companionway ladder. First look at masts plunked in dry assembled. Looking like a ship! Lower shrouds complete. Psychedelic mizzen ratline guide from cereal box. Why not the blank side, you ask? I have no idea now. Home-made topsail yard parral. Nearly there! Decided to rig bowlines too, hitched to yards. Stream anchor lashed to port sheet anchor. Also made anchor buoys, lashed to foremast shrouds. Copied Blue Ensign's idea to make little Lord Nelson and Captain Hardy figures. Faces aren't very good but ok to naked eye. Had a cast acrylic case made for her, atop a cherry cabinet I made for the purpose. Sat three of the boats on the shelf to allow viewer to see down to the upper deck through the skid beams, but really you cannot see even the cannon rigging on quarterdeck. At least my eyes cannot. Print hung above is Geoff Hunt's "England Expects", depicting "Victory" among the British fleet approaching the combined fleet on the morning of Trafalgar.
  10. 20th February 2020 I started this build almost exactly 7 years ago (February 2013) but parked it after perhaps 2 or 3 months for a variety of reasons. Every once in a while I’d half-heartedly take another look but, with no end of other calls on my time – a house renovation, a large garden, a family – it was always easier to justify further procrastination. I finally got going again this January 2020 and am enjoying it immensely this time. One of the reasons I parked it, to be honest, was demoralisation - I hadn’t really appreciated what building a 1:100 Victory would entail and there are some very tedious, repetitive tasks from the outset. I think I was probably expecting it to be something like building planes as a child just with more and different parts. Also, the poor Heller instructions had me scouring the web straight away and landing on Pete Coleman’s site, which was both a blessing and a bane. For those who didn’t ever see it, it was like this site, full of examples of truly extraordinary skill and craftsmanship. The trouble was, having seen what I should do, I couldn’t possibly just whack this together straight out of the box, as intended, and that meant hours and hours on small modifications lay ahead. However, it was always parked, not abandoned! I should say from the outset that this is my first go at high quality model-making. Other than helping my progeny with the odd bit of model-based homework I haven’t touched a model kit in perhaps 45 years. I chose the Victory for sentimental reasons, inspired by the books of Patrick O'Brian, not realising that this is probably the Everest of plastic sailing ship models. In fact the intention was that this would be the only kit I’d ever build, it was a project for one wet and miserable winter rather than a hobby. Who knows, that may change by the time I’ve finished the Victory (assuming I ever do). So, the object of this build log is two-fold; it’s partly to share my learning with anyone else in the same position, novice’s taking on this huge challenge; and partly to seek advice, as I go along, from the many experienced, expert modellers on this forum. It may help if I say what I’m aiming for. I’m not too bothered about true historical or nautical accuracy, just want a really nice looking ship at the end of the day. I’m unlikely to spend much if any time adding features below decks that can’t be seen, but I am making the ‘usual’ modifications like hull thickening, the admirals’ entry and altered side steps. It almost goes without saying that I’m constantly looking at the fantastic work of Dafi, Foxy, Bishophobbies and a few others, though I’m expecting my results to be more modest. That's enough of the intro - in a moment I'll start adding build content.
  11. Hello all, And yes, another Victory build! Welcome all. My apologies to Amati, but I couldn't wait any longer for their Victory. So I ordered the Caldercraft / Jotika instead as a present to myself on the occasion on my upcoming 40th work anniversary in August. And boy, she is big and heavy. A box filled with 15 kilo's (33 lb) of all kinds of goodies.
  12. Late summer 1805, the sun is burning inexorably from above, the wind is completely asleep, the sea is smooth as glass. The dispatches have already been exchanged. The master of the small cutter has just returned to his tiny vessel. Behind it there is towering the enormously massiv silhouette of the huge black and ocher striped three decker. Through the open gunports the lashed up guns can be seen. Also the officers' cabins ports are wide opened by the order of the Captain's to ensure an optimal ventilation of the hot and steamy lower decks. Clatter of activity on some guns being ran out cuts through the silence. The rumble of the heavy guns rolling over the decks and the trampling of countless bare feet and the short shouted commands supported by a multitude of hand signs originate from the ordered gundrill for new gun crews and their officers. In competition between the three decks they are fighting for the fastest rate of firing. The rest of the ships crew is occupied with cleaning and mending duties. The holystone are scratching on the decks. Above all the sails hang slack in their yards. No breath of wind moves them. They are nestled heavily over stays and fighting tops. The captain took advantage of the hot calm to put up all the canvas possible for airing. One of the studdingsails is taken in, the spar tied up with its inner end against the shrouds, in order to mend something on its fittings. Sitting on a swing seat pendent from the fore top, a crew member just is finishing painting over with ocher the originally black coloured mast loops. On the poop Captain Hardy monitors the young cadets´ training in navigation, supported by Lord Nelson, who uses the opportunity to entertain the cadets with stories of his actions and the ideas of his tactical concepts. But in the back of everybodys mind there is just one question - When will there be wind again ...
  13. hi guys and gals, after many many to many years of following i have decided to post a build log. i bought this kit in 2006 along with the snake and diana. i finished the diana last fall and started the victory in march after completing the duke william. to date i have lower gundeck, dummy barrel strips, stem, keelson and frames attached to the keel. i am working on beveling bow and stern frames. as soon as i figure out how to post some pictures i will and once i do please feel free to comment on any and everything you wish. thanks, mort
  14. Hello to everybody. Finally started the long voyage. I ordered HMS Victory Caldercraft from CMB and received it just a few days later by UPS, very well packed. I was a bit busy and could not start on it right away. Apart from that I was still undecided whether to install lights on it or not. In the meantime I prepared a rotating board to build it on and did some research on available led’s. I was also browsing HMS Victory Caldercraft builds on MSW. Very nice builds going on, congratulations to Gil Middleton, Seventynet, Rob G, Heinz746, Robert22564 and Dominic. I enjoyed going through their builds and tried to absorb some ideas. So my first decision to make was ‘lights or no lights’. If I opted for the lights I knew it was going to delay the start of my build as I had to do some planning beforehand. After some research on lights available and on builds with lights, I decided to go for it. I think the end result will be worth the extra effort. I sourced small 3mm yellow flickering led’s, candle effect and ordered some of them together with the resistors to see their effect. I dry fitted the keel and bulkheads and literally spent hours looking at it trying to plan how to put the lights in the lower and middle deck gunports. I don’t want the boat to look like the Titanic lit up for its maiden voyage. I decided to put a led in each gunport. I experimented a bit and tried to put the lights in a position where they give a very subdued light, as of course there is nothing to see in the lower gunports, except the dummy rails for the cannons. I wanted to create the effect of a very dim light where the gunports are still a bit dark but you can still see a very dim light with a candle effect. Finger crossed the final result would be what I am hoping for. I also planned from where to pass the wiring for them and for the upper decks. Another thing which was bothering me was the power supply for the lights. I do not want to use batteries as in the future I intend to put it in a glass case and it would be very inconvenient to have to remove the glass case each time you want to switch it on or off. On the other hand I do not want any cables showing coming out of the model. I decided to take out the cables from under the keel and through one of the mountings and base board of a future glass case. I drilled three holes under the keel, two to take the mounting rods and the middle one to pass the wires through. Now that I have visualised more or less how to install the lights for the lower and middle deck gunports I prepared the holes for the wiring in the bulkhead as it is much easier to drill them at this stage, painted the inside of the bulkheads black, and started gluing the bulkheads in place, taking care to have them all at right angles with the keel. Here goes a few images of my working table I prepared and the start of my build. It is going to be a slow start because of the lights. HMS Victory Kit arrived by UPS very well packed. Prepared a rotating working table for the model. Cut a tick MDF board, fitted a tv turntable to it and fixed to the table. The table is on wheels as well. Glued the walnut Stem and the front keelson to the main keel. Prepared and numbered the bulkheads. One of them was not pre-cut properly and repaired. Drilled the holes in the keel for the mounting studs and the hole through which the power will be supplied to the model. Fitted a nut inside the keel to take the mounting studs, and also reinforced the sides of the holes. Dry fitted the structure, sanding and making sure the joints fit without needing to use force. This is the method I used to bend the dummy barrel strips. I steamed the strip in a pot then put it on a flat surface and while rolling a jam jar over it, pull up at one end, repeating this process until the desired bend is achieved. Immagine there are better ways to do it, but for the moment worked fine. Started work on the lights. I cut small squares from a circuit board on which I mounted a led, resistor and a pair of wires. I drilled a whole in each gun port on the dummy barrel strips through which the led’s protruded from the back. This way I did not have to do all the soldering on the model, all I had to do in place was to loop the pair of cable to the next one. Each time I soldered one in place I checked all is lighting up so I don’t find any surprises later on. On the led’s if you switch polarity, it will not light up. Painted black and started gluing the bulkheads to the main keel making sure they are perfectly square. The middle gun deck is only dry fitted for the moment. I have to do the wiring for the lower gun deck first. Installing the lights. The red and black wires are to supply the upper deck lightings, which I still have to plan as I go along. Will appreciate any comments where I can improve, change or am doing any tasks the wrong way. Robert
  15. Thought I would start my build log, have just had a good look at Gil's build, am truly inspired, so here goes... Am currently approx. 90 hrs into a build that I started about 11 and a half years ago, two children and a major house move/extension have seen her in dry dock for 5 years now, but house work is nearly at an end so with a bit of luck should be back in the boatshed in the next couple of months, should be done for Xmas (note: didn't say which year!!)
  16. Started going over the instructions and list of materials before I begin this great ship.
  17. Hi, I'm Phil. I'm about ten months into my build. I've never done a ship of the line before, so this is a learning experience. I chose to build the HMS Victory because I wanted to do a ship of the line. I bought it off of E-Bay on an auction. The kit dates back from 1991. I've had a few difficulties due to the age of the wood and my relative inexperience (compared to most of you guys) in wooden ship modelling. I am very patient. I am very stubborn. I have lots of experience with other types of models to draw from. I have finished the rough work on the hull. Both layers of planking are on. The stern and quarter galleries are built and painted. I have the base color scheme painted on. I am going to be coppering the bottom of the hull. I have 3/16" copper tape, a pounce wheel and Gene Bodnar's article on making copper plates using self adhesive copper tape (thank you very much, Gene, for writing that, as well as the other articles that you have written), that I pulled off of this website. I plan on making very good use of all three . Here's where I'm at right now:
  18. Where do I start? First, it’s great to find this forum and be able to obtain nearly instantaneous expertise and advice! Of course the first piece of sage advice was in essence, ‘... first time builders don’t start with HMS Victory!!’... and I fully understand that sound advice. But with your help and good Lord willing, I will succeed. I do plan to spend some time rooting around on this grand site to find pertinent information of which I’ve already found and am reading some. But thank you in advance for all the assistance/advice I’m sure to receive (and want!). That’s always better than ‘I knew that would happen!’ After the fact. Background: I’ve been an avid fan of the sailing/warships/Nelson’s navy of the late 18th and early 19th century for more than 40 years, having spent some time in Greenwich (UK) visiting the Maritime Museum (during a Nelson celebration actually) and having been able to visit the Victory in Portsmouth in the 1980’s. I’ve also toured the USS Constitution in Boston - as I’m sure many of you have as well. I purchased this kit (if memory serves) in the early 90’s and have been carrying it around with me for some time now. Having just retired from the workforce, I thought ‘Finally, now is the time!’. Well here goes. As I read in an earlier post, the model directions are a train wreck. I’ve read through the directions and have laid out the various reference items for easy reference. I don’t speak or read Italian so some of the information is difficult to interpret. The below picture is where we stand today having fitted the parts, but not glued anything but the keel (3) sections. I first found that the supporting horizontal beams did not readily fit into the slots. I then went through sanding/scraping the slots to ensure the beam would fit. Couple of observations: (1) The horizontal beams stick out beyond the first frame at the bow. I plan to cut off the ends to align with frame #1 (2) Looking from bow to stern, the various frame tops are not in a horizontal line. That is, starting with frame #10 (through 16) is the frame tops are progressively higher. The result will be the deck will not be horizontal. I’ve verified the frames are all seated correctly but wondering if those frame tops should all be at the same height. If so, I’ll need to remove and sand/adjust the tops accordingly. (3) An initial fit check of the deck closest to the stern (#27) seems to indicate an extremely tight fit... I take it I will need to adjust accordingly. (4) Anything I should know before I glue everything below after (1-3) above are covered? Finally, I’m wondering if the kit has simply ‘expanded’ over the years so that it will be ill fitting across the board.... or perhaps the kits are ill fitting to begin with? All for now; Thanks again for your help/assistance and I hope everyone has a great weekend!
  19. Hi fellow builders, After 2 years of trying to build the HMS Victory, using the Caldercraft kit I think it's time to show some of my efforts on this forum. I live in Utrecht, The Netherlands, and I regard this as a 10-year project. Building is the fun part, time is of no essence as the fun is much less when the model is finished (speaking for myself). I chose the HMS Victory for several reasons: - The Caldergraft kit is essentially historically correct, although some research is still necessary. - The kit is technically very good, most parts fit without much adjustment - The "original" 1805 Travalgar version of the ship can still be visited in Portmouth and plenty of photo's circulate on the internet, therefore building a historically "correct" model is easier than of many other ships. - Many books can be found on the subject like Longridge, McKay and others. over time I collected a (very) small library on the subject. - There are some build logs of the Victory on the internet of excellent builders, notably Gil Middleton. In some instances my choices differ from theirs, but I will explain my choices as much as possible. In the weeks to follow I wil show the progress so far, which is as far as the 30 cannons on the Upper Gun Deck. Some basic facts about the HMS Victory: The HMS Victory was (and is) the flagship of the English Navy which defeated the combined French-Spanish fleet during the Battle of Trafalgar. Admiral Lord Nelson was mortally wounded during battle by a French sniper, but England won the battle. The HMS Victory is the 5th ship with this name and the largest by far. The ship was ordered in 1758. It is a First Rate Ship with more than 100 cannons. The design of the ship was completely devoted to firepower In 1805 (Trafalgar) ther were: - on the Lower Gun Deck: 30 cannons for 32-pound balls - on the Middle Gun Deck: 28 cannons for 24-pound balls - on the Upper Gun Deck: 30 cannons for 12-pound balls - on the Quarterdeck: 12 cannons for 12-pound balls - on the Forecastle: 2 cannons voor 12-pound balls and 2 carronades for 68-ponds balls(!!) The total length of the ship is about 70 meter, water displacement more than 2000 tons and almost 5500 square meter of sail can be carried. Some other numbers: 40km rope in the rigging, 1400 blocks, 300 tons of "potable" water, 50 tons of coals, 20 tons of wood, 50 tons of beer, etc. Index First and second planking Wales Gunports Coppering Upper gun deck, cannons and fittings Quarter Deck Forecastle Bow Poop Deck Stern Fascia Quarter Galleries Hull details First an impression of the progress so far. I will try not to bore you with every individual bulkhead and plank. Details will be provided on request (of course).
  20. Hi everybody ! As I mentioned on my new members introduction, I restarted my modeling hobby during this lockdown after many years of inactivity. Searching for a new plastic kit online, I found a really good opportunity to get a HMS Victory Corel model at a fraction of retail value. The price was so tempting and the model so challenging that I decided to buy it. It arrived home on August 28th, so it has been almost a month of great enjoyment. This is only my second wood model ship after the Artesania Latina's Swift. I was satisfied with the result, but planking it was really a nightmare. I hope this time I will do it much better with your advice. These are some pics of the first stage, setting the frames, keel, lower deck and longways beams; planking of the lower deck, construction of the stairs and setting of the lower deck gratings. Contrary to what I had read, all pieces fit together perfectly, and very little sanding and correcting was needed. I set the planks with the three-butt pattern, used a soft pencil to highlight the edges and used semi-gloss polyurethane varnish. Second stage picks will come soon. Any comment and advice are welcome!!! Eugenio.
  21. A model I collected some years back now and have been working on it all this time it's DelPrado kit, but iv made many improvements by looking at models and ships on Pinterest. I have spent many hours on this model, its in full paint. It's my first and I just wanted to make it look as real as possible. Oz
  22. Introduction here : http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9692-new-member/ With the workshop sorted and the kit in my hands it's time to get started.
  23. Hello after pausing the construction of the HMS ANSON 64-gun vessel, I open the shipyard for the construction of the first-class vessel HMS VICTORY 1765 following the drawings of the Greenwich NMM in 1/48 scale. A greeting
  24. Some background: I started this build a year and two months ago. I did some modeling when I was a kid, but discovered other joys of life when I reached puberty :-) In the meantime I settled down and decided to take it up again (I'm 30 years old). I decided to go for a challenge and went for the Heller Victory. I wanted to try all the new and exciting tools & techniques I did not have the money for when I was a kid. I started out using acrylics by brush, but invested in a good compressor and airbrush a couple of months ago. Too bad I did not have this at the start of my build! The finish is so much nicer! The goal is not to make a true to life representation of the actual ship, but a nice looking model in warm colours with lot's of detail that looks good under glass in the living room. Enough background, here are the pictures: You can clearly see half of the hull bee lines haven't received the sepia wash yet I use to give it more depth and a warmer tone. I also need to rework the figurehead a little bit. The white crown is a bit to big and the white horse needs some TLC as well. Otherwise, I'm very happy with the look of the ship! I used some styrene sheet to make the gun port thicker. I like that look even though it's out of scale. After a lot of trial and error, I finally settled on a style of gun carriage lashing. I used 2mm single blocks and Morope rigging chords. The most difficult part was making the two holes in the top blocks. I ruined quite a lot of blocks just to get these guns finished :-) Will need to order lot's more! I was not completely happy with my decks. The colour was a bit to pale, it missed some 'life', and some parts were damaged a bit. So, in a moment of temporary insanity, I went out and got a second Heller Victory kit. Maybe a bit drastic, but now I have spare parts for everything and this allows me to experiment a bit more. I tore out the old deck. This meant I also had to take out the four guns I tackled already, unfortunately. I redid the decks using the same technique, but this time I added two coats of MIG brown filter. This added a nice weathered wood tone. I'm very happy with the result, but judge for yourselves (the foto does not do it justice, though): The stanchions were made using 2mm eyelets and 0.1mm Morope rigging chord.
  25. Hi Folks, This is my first time here so hopefully everything will upload correctly! This model was started nearly two decades ago but ended up in the loft due to career changes and various other factors. Primarily the build was stopped because I became petrified of ruining the stern section in the absence of any real dimensions or detail. No one will be surprised I guess that, yes, this was my first model which I got at an engineering exhibition whilst displaying some metal. At the time of purchase a guy tapped me on the shoulder and asked me that same question. He said I was looking at at least three years and in anycase shouldn't I start something simpler! His words came back to haunt me later..... Anyways, having found this wonderful website, here I am about to restart the build having found suitable drawings and other info from far and wide. My sincere thanks go to fellow member Grant Dale who started the ball rolling again and gave me the incentive to bash on. I won't say anything about the Corel drawings or the translated instructions as for more experienced people they're probably fine. My other sources now are; McKay,Longridge,Underhill,Roth and Dressel. My local printer has very patiently enlarged some 1/92 detail for me and I now have enough 1:98 drawings to check out the stern below the galleries. These were 'lifted' by the way by enlarging to 195.5% and seem spot on and agree more favourably with the Corel ones. My intention now is to make up some templates for the carving checks and take my time over getting this aspect right. I cannot honestly say how often I shall post but at each significant stage I will. Meanwhile 'management' keeps telling me they built the real one in around six years! Left hand down a bit! Cheers, Chris
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