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Found 22 results

  1. Hi there, I went through the topics of the board and saw that there are general issues in getting the right wood for building your ship model. My recommendation is to go to your local carpenter and see what kind of wood he is using in his daily work and which comes from the area you life. You can spend a lot of money in ordering wood via a retailer and get a glossy and nicely wrapped material. I believe that the beauty lie's in a non perfect wood. All of the woods I use are mainly out of the area where I live: Swiss pear, cubed pear, walnut, plum, boxwood (mainly from old graveyards) and many more. On the pictures which are attached you can see three different kinds of wood: Swiss pear, boxwood (approx. 450 years old) and Argentina Lapacho which I got from a turist who visited my Museum (e.g. the Lion is made from this wood). What are your suggestions? Best regards, Ivan
  2. Greetings all! My first post is to display the find that brought me here. I found this kit in a thrift store down the street. They wanted $100 for it, but gave me a military discount! I was thrilled, since I have been to see the ship when I was on a business trip in Boston. It really made an impression on me. I enjoyed the museum. I learned about the time during a storm when the ship came loose from its lines and was swinging around on its remaining moorings. It swung into the modern steel warship moored next to it and did extreme damage to it, while taking only scratches itself. An amazing ship, undefeated in battle (even if it required her crew to man the boats and tow her out of the doldrums.) My background in making stuff is mixed. Plane models as a kid, home repair, car modifications, machining, and extensive gunsmithing. I have never done anything more detailed in wood than a pinewood derby car, but I'm ex-military, and believe I can follow a manual. Looks like everything is here. We'll see!
  3. I found this canoe at a second hand store a while back. Even before I thought of building ship models. I had it on my shelf all this time and decided that I could do something with it. Definitely inspired by @Osmosis and his beautiful Peterboro, recently completed. I always thought that this canoe is out of scale; 20.25” long and a beam of about 3.25”. I has no tumblehome, no keel, no thwarts and a large rocker. But I think I can do something with it. I initially thought I would somehow cut it down to 16” to make it more proportional to a typical canoe but decided against that. I've sanded all the paint off of it. As you can see the planking was very well done. Interesting on how the builder crossed the planks at the bottom instead of meeting in the center. I don’t know if that is a usual way of planking a canoe. I’ve never seen that before. I removed the fore and aft decks and then the gunwales. I want to clean up the inside but I don’t know how. Any advice is appreciated! I plan on stemming the whole thing and compressing the beam by about 1/4” - 1/3”. It’ll be a long skinny canoe but I think that will take away the flare profile to make straight sides or maybe a little tumblehome. I would like to build up the bow and stern to change from a touring profile to a more traditional profile. I think that will help in making it look more proportional. At least to my eye. I’m going to plank over the existing planks. Add a keel and stems. Add nice decks and gunwales. Add seats and thwarts and finally make a nice pair of paddles.
  4. Hi all!! Finally my kit arrived yesterday evening. I had to wait for her for 8 weeks. I wanted to take a picture of all what is in the box but my hobbyroom is simply not big enough to show it all. Sergal renewed the building inscription, now also in Dutch. I putted my new topic on the wrong place and also dubble, so I had to delete it all, so: @Jörgen and @Sjors, you both have to renew your follow and @Eddie, thx for the tip. I hope I did it right now Some pictures...
  5. This area of the forum was a great resource for information on where to buy various types of wood. Let's rebuild that information using our collective knowledge and experience. I've given credit in parenthesis to those who have contributed the name of that source. Sources of milled wood (Australia): Modellers Shipyard (Shazmira) - A limited selection of sheet and strip stock. They also have kits, tools, and other supplies. Ships internationally. Sources of milled wood (Germany): Arkowood (TRJ) - A bit on the expensive side, but good for smaller quantities. All major wood varieties, including swiss pear, box, lime. Massivholzwerkstätten Horschig (Redshirt) - Good assortment of wood, high accuracy and good price. Sources of milled wood (UK): Hobby's (AntonyUK) JoTiKa (Marsares) Cornwall Boat Models (Marsares) The Model Dockyard (Marsares) Sources of milled wood (USA): Ocooch - Good source for milled sheetwood of all species but no Boxwood, swiss pear or holly. Syren - sheets and strips of milled Boxwood, Alaskan Yellow Cedar and Swiss Pear. Itasca - Mainly a source for basswood. Their "Half Price" wood is still of good quality and excellent value. $20 minimum order size. 20% military discount. National Balsa - Another source for basswood, Maple, Cheerry. More expensive than Itasca, but they have a greater range of sizes and have lots of dowels. tallships_model_builder (themadchemist) - An eBay store with several items targeted towards model ship builders (eg. Deck planking and sheet wood). May be willing to cut custom sizes for you. http://www.northeasternscalelumber.com/shop/index.php?PHPSESSID=fbf4aea8bc5623641aa53ab405ec4c6a - Northeastern Scale Lumber Sources of rough lumber (Australia): Trend Timbers (1492) - Local, imported and exotic timbers. Anagote Timbers (Jim Lad) - Local and imported timbers. Named after a pet goat called Anna. Australian Furniture Timbers (BANYAN) - A wide selection of timbers. Avilable in 1 meter lengths. Sources of rough lumber (UK): Workshop Heaven (AntonyUK) - Various sized chunks of exotic wood Yandles (Kevin) Sources of rough lumber (Spain) Maderas Barber (ymperivm) Sources of rough/billets lumber (USA): Gilmer Wood Company - Mainly Exotic wood and much of it highly figured. The main species of interest for ship modelers will be boxwood, ebony, and holly. $100 USD minimum order for Internet purchases, no minimum for walk-in purchases. Ships internationally. Cookwoods (mtaylor) - Exotic hardwoods. Ships internationally. Righteous Woods (davec) - Domestic, imported and exotic timbers. $100 USD minimum order for Internet purchases. Ships internationally. Tallgrass Custom Wood Productsfff382 (Thairinker) - Domestic hardwoods. Located in Kansas, does not appear to offer shipping. Woodworkers Source (Sephirem) - Domestic and imported. Lumber is organized based on geographic region that it comes from. Rare Woods USA (ChrisLBren) - Ships to Continental USA only for online orders, but is free for orders >$100 with conditions. Sources of rough lumber (global): A local hardwood store - Usually a great place to buy domestic wood and some exotics. I have seen ebony and purpleheart at Woodcraft. A local hardwood flooring store (muzzleloader) - Mahogany, maple, cherry and other hard woods. Inquire about sales of remnants at bargain prices. A note on Gilmer: This is a local business for me so I am fortunate that I can visit. If you've purchased milled Castello Boxwood for your model then it probably came from here. They told me that they don't have a source for this wood anymore, but in addition to the large stack of wood towering over me they also had a bunch more in another warehouse. The Castello Boxwood starts out as rough 8/4 (2" thick) boards around 6" wide and 7' long. When the stock on their website gets low they pull down a board, clean it up in a planer, spray with shellac to bring out the color, then seal the ends with wax. They told me if I was to buy a board off the top of the stack it would be $30 a board foot (1"x12"x12") but that if I wanted to dig through the stack they'd up the price to $35 per board foot. Indeed, the chunks on their website were about $35 a board foot when I last ran the numbers. Ebony is tricky stuff as it all looks the same in pictures so ask them to select a board with straight grain, if you tell them it is for a ship model they will understand what you need. When I was there last they showed me how to hold the ebony to the light to check the grain for straightness. Also don't be too concerned if the description of Castello Boxwood on the website is "figured" as that is what they listed my piece of wood as and it was actually fairly straight. Not all wood can be sold to customers outside of the USA because of laws to protect endangered species.
  6. Good Morning all I hope that I am not in contravention of the rules of MSW and if i am please let me know immediately and I will remove this post. (this is NOT about commercial gain, it is about limiting my waste and hopefully yours too) I am a fruit farmer in South Africa with access to an almost unlimited supply of fruit woods(Pear, apple, peach, apricot and plum). As it currently sits I use this wood for barbecuing, as there are mountains of it on the farm and on farms all around me and we are creating more ever day as we pull out old trees and plant new ones. This post consists of 2 parts, firstly, if there is anyone who would like some of this timber, either in block shape or a specific curve or curves please let me know and I will be happy to ship to you if you can cover shipping costs once the timber arrives at its destination. Secondly, I do not want any money for this wood BUT I am a new modeller and equipment can become very expensive very quickly, if anyone would like to trade old/used/damaged equipment/plans/parts for this wood I would really appreciate it. Please remember that the primary point of this is to not let tonnes of good pear wood go to waste so if you do need some and have nothing to trade for it please let me know and we can make a plan to get supplies to you. Kind Regards Haiko
  7. I was making yet more parts today and thought I should share what I think is the best wood I have ever used for turning/carving. Photinia Robusta is a plant used mainly for hedges. Some plagiarism from Wikipedia They are a part of the rose family (Rosaceae) and related to the apple. The botanical genus name derives from the Greek word photeinos for shiny and refers to the often glossy leaves. Most species are evergreen, but deciduous species also occur. The small apple-shaped fruit has a size of 4 to 12 mm and forms in large quantities. They ripen in the fall and often remain hanging on the bush until well into the winter. The fruits are used as food by birds, which excrete the seeds with their droppings and thereby distribute the plant. The natural range of these species is restricted to warm temperate Asia, from the Himalaya east to Japan and south to India and Thailand. They have, however, been widely cultivated throughout the world as ornamentals for their white flowers and red fruits. It is better than Box, Pear or Apple. It machines and cuts like hard plastic and does not come apart. The flange next to the measured one is 0.2mm thick, The small shaft is 0.5mm did. With more care even smaller is easily obtained. Now I won't be held responsible for all the disappearing hedges around the world. Regards Allan
  8. all, My Halve Maen build was already on hold, but during our move to a new house in November 2015, she got lost because one of our friends put her box on the pavement instead of in our car. After that the enthusiasm to build was completely gone. I spent last year enjoying my other hobbies. But, as a Dutch saying goes: 'Blood is thicker than water' and the urge to build another ship came back. So, May I present to you the Spanish Galleon Nuestra Señora del Pilar De Zaragoza (Our lady of the pillar of Zaragoza), a Spanish Treasure Galleon. Measurements Length: 1110 mm Height: 970 mm Width: 520 mm History During the 17th and 18th centuries Spanish galleons served the Spanish crown as merchantmen and warships. Many of them sailed between Acapulco and Manila, transporting South American silver to the Philippines and exotic goods from Asia to Mexico, from where the treasures were sent back to Spain. Commisioned in 1731 and launched in 1733, Nuestra Señora del Pilar de Zaragoza (Our Lady of the Pillar of Zaragoza) was one of these Manila Galleons built of the finest Philippine wood, she was 112 feet on deck and displaced 1,000 tons. A 4th rate of the Cavogonda class, she was fitted with 50 cannon, two stern chasers and six swivel guns. She carried a crew of 385 men. For twenty years she sailed the route from Mexico to Manila and in 1750 underwent a complete refit in the Port of Cavite. In 1750, on her last voyage, she set sail from Manila bound for Acapulco. Despite being overloaded, and contrary to the opinion of both pilots and Master, her Captain insisted on weighing anchor at the beginning of September. En route for the Mariana Islands, in the Pacific, they began to have difficulties after sailing into a heavy storm, and she sank taking all of her crew down with her. Frames dry fit. Frames glued in place. Reinforcing pieces not glued yet. Frames glued in place. Last three frames fitted and glued. Reinforcing pieces glued. Close-up bow section Close-up stern section Enjoy and thank you for watching. Anja
  9. Greetings, I'm from Hungary, and until now, I built mainly WW2 ships and planes from plastic kits. Now I decided to build a tall ship, and I ended up with two kits, but I can't decide which to buy. One is the 1/96 plastic model of the Cutty Sark from Revell (Nr. 5422), and the other one is from wood, the 1/124 Thermopylae model of Sergal. Which of do you recommend to a beginner in sailing ships, and why? If you know alternatives for a maximum of €80-100, in the category of XIX. century ships, I would appreciate it too. Thanks in advance.
  10. Welcome to my log. Sovereign of the Seas was a 17th-century warship of the English Navy. She was ordered as a 90-gun first-rate ship of the line of the English Royal Navy, but at launch was armed with 102 bronze guns at the insistence of the king. She was later renamed Sovereign, and then Royal Sovereign. The ship was launched on 13 October 1637 and served from 1638 until 1697, when a fire burned the ship to the waterline at Chatham. Source: Wikipedia. Click here for more information. Enjoy. Sjors
  11. Many, many years ago I bought a Brazilian boxwood trunk. I had it rough sawn into planks ranging from 3/4” to 1/16” thicknesses (see attached photos). The planks are about 36” long. I now want to use this now well-seasoned wood for a model, but I need to finish the timber before I can use it. I’m seeking advice as to the best and most accurate way to achieve a smooth surface finish with a consistent thickness throughout the length of each plank. Should I use a planner/sander, or...? With thanks in advance!
  12. I'm midway through a build of the Emma C. Berry. I took a year+ off due to buying and renovating a new house. In the meantime, people have been anxiously awaiting promised updates of progress. I thought a fun project, or couple, would be to recreate some of the parts of some amazing builds on MSW. A recreated frame w/ blackened nails or a full keel. Accompanied by some plans and shadowboxed. I'm struggling on two parts: I can't seem to get wood to save my life. I have placed an order at Wood Project Source, but two weeks later realized I neglected to supply a unit number in my shipping address (please note, this is an error on my end - not theirs). Reading before placing a second order, due to demand, it may be 2-3+ weeks before I can get some wood to work with. Any US vendors than can delivery relatively quicker? Looking for pear and boxwood preferably. I don't have accurate plans for a frame (and it's parts) or keel. Are there accessible plans with a minimal cost that are limited to the parts I want? I know this question extends beyond the scope of this forum, but advise would be great. Thank you all, and a silent tip of the hat to all the builds I've been watching that have inspired me. Ryan
  13. Starting my first log! This is my second POH ship and was looking to start afresh in my ship modeling seeing as my last model didn't survive my most recent move and I need a nifty new mantle decoration. Adventure is a "pirate" schooner kit offered by Amati. The last ship I completed was also an Amati in 2014 and I now recall frustrations from the vague details in the instructions provided. I rushed through that model, had plenty of very, very visible mistakes and only admired the finished product as it was my first. Luckily I found another build log here for Adventure that has been helpful, and I figured I'd document my current build here also to further the available info for future "Adventure-rs". I'm on break from school for the next few weeks so I really hope to get a lot done with the build. I've already completed some of the first steps (deck planking, first hull planking), I'll be posting pictures soon! Thanks!
  14. On Tuesday we had a big storm in Germany in y neighbourhood a walnuttree was knocked down - today I can get some wood for helping to saw. So I'm going to help. For the work I'll be able to pick some of the wood. Due to the price of wood the do want to get for sawed wood in the internet I'm willing to invest a bit of time and sweat. But my question is how to handle the wood. I know it must lager for a timeof about two years to get dry. So that I can't use the wood imediatly. So I have to peel off the bark? Or shall I try to cut the branch in to quater or eightedge bar. They will be around 5-20cm / 2-9' diameter abd 30-50cm / 12'' - 18'' long. With a bit of good luck I'll get a bit thicker parts. I have only got a little table saw by Proxxon and an old scroll saw to cut. Hope you don't say after all this work: “Sorry fot you but just walnut has the wrong grain for 1/64 shipbuilding.“ Thanks for your intrest und help.
  15. Are any of you builders of small ships aware of a technique for bending woods like mahogany, teak, maple etc utilising liquid ammonia? It apparently plasticises the fibres of the wood so it can be easily bent to shape where it will return to its wood state staying bent. i would be interested to hear if anyone is familiar with this technique. cheers David
  16. I found this website during browsing for another thing. It has a lot of good info but also ideas of what we builder can built ourselves to help us in the workshop and having some diy tools. Specially lathe setup with a power drill seems interesting.
  17. This build is in planning at this time, should start in the next month or two. I have the kit and have checked the parts and started to prep them for building.
  18. The other day during last week, I made a visit to my local WoodCraft, to get some glue of various kind. A week prior to my visit I had recieved a news letter with savings, ..... put it this way, I paid 76 dollars for huge drill bit set along with five different type of glues, and saved almost 40 dollars. This is one of them, which I am very curious about. The Chair Briwax is to be used as a First-Aid for Ailing Chairs............. but then my mind started... Becuse this glues works as a filler as well. On the other hand it is not sandable according to what I have read. This is what the back of reads: ChaiRX Joint First Aid Glue by BRIWAX International works by penetrating the wood cells, swelling the joints and locking the glue in the fiber of the wood. The unique formula permanently swells the joints and bonds them together. I could see this glue to be useful when it comes to framing of all the ships of ours. I have to try the product and test will be attached later.....
  19. We will be cutting up and disposing of a large fallen poplar tree at the school where I work next week. This is the European poplar - very tall and slender - not the North American variety also known as tulipwood. Does anyone have a view on whether it is useful for ship modelling, case construction or any other purpose related to our hobby? Rob
  20. Many of our instructions reads: "after placing the first two or three hull planking under the deck, find the most natural way for the "main" strake. With my current project X, I have found not one but four natural lines for the planking strips to follow without twisting and bending. Should I follow them and add in the missing and twisted? I have divided the hull into three sections, and just following the hull line seems more natural to me. Again, just my two cents
  21. Hi. Just starting on my triton cross section and needed some timber. Found an UK outlet for timber and thought I would share it with the rest of me ship mates. http://hobby.uk.com/materials/wood.html For timber. http://hobby.uk.com/materials/metal/etched-mesh.html for mesh. There are other bits on the site that might be of interest to us. Got my order today and the quality is spot on. Postage was very cheep and was send 24 hour delivery. Regards Antony.
  22. Greetings, While visiting Wisconcin last week I stumbeled across a great place to purchase the wood for your model's baseboard. Some of you may have heard of it, they are called "Timeless Timber" I'll post their story below. I purchased a piece of Birdseye Maple for a half hull of the Shamrock V, I plan to build, the piece of wood is loaded with eyes, it's truly beautiful... If you are in the area stop in and look at their selection of wood. Timeless Timber 2200 East Lake Shore Drive Ashland, WI http://www.timelesstimber.com/index.php Timeless Timber uses premium wood which is milled from logs that sank during the logging boom of the 1800's and early 1900's. These logs were perfectly preserved by the icy temperatures and low oxygen content of the waters of the Great Lakes. This is a unique niche business that has attracted national and international attention. Timeless Timber products are all environmentally sound, created by recycling a squandered resource lost generations ago. Unlike other mills that cut wood from today's young forests, Timeless Timber uses antique quality wood that has not been available in any significant quantities for almost a century. Timeless Timber is proud to be an environmentally conscious company. All of the reclaimed wood we mill is ecologically sound, and carries the environmental Scientific Certification Systems (SCS) seal of approval for 100% reclaimed underwater salvaged recycled timber. This means that none of our reclaimed timbers were harvested from current old-growth forests. We are committed to educating wood product consumers of the importance of using "sustainable wood products" and the benefits of reclaimed and recycled lumber. Underwater logging reduces the negative impacts of commercial forestry by utilizing existing resources more responsibly. We currently recover, reclaim and process two million board feet of lumber each year without sawing down one single tree. By recovering and reclaiming the vast amount of logs that sunk during the logging boom of yesteryear, we are able to help reduce the need to harvest existing forests to meet the current demand for wood. Timeless Timber logs are reclaimed without damage to wildlife habits. Every site is carefully assessed to prevent disturbing existing fish and wildlife habits. Timeless Timber gives manufacturers, craftsmen and artisans the ability to utilize this fine, old growth lumber to create the "antiques" of tomorrow. Timeless Timber has the same fine grain and texture as the antiques of 100 years ago, because it's from the same forest. The fine designs of today will take on a whole new 'look' with the use of this rare, fine quality lumber. Through extensive research and development, Timeless Timber has successfully refined its proprietary drying technology to preserve this treasure for generations to come. The mill is unique because all wood is cut to customers' specifications, such as violin and guitar makers, furniture manufacturers, craftsmen, and artisans. Anyone who appreciates fine quality wood the feel, the texture, the color, the depth that is present in fine antiques, will appreciate this treasure. Cheers, Tim

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