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  1. Greetings my honorable colleagues. Asking the admittance to “the Dutch club”🙂 I have found the drawing in the internet, scale 1:30. I’m planning on working with the pear tree and black hornbeam. I would be very grateful for the advices and constructive critics. For the moment the model has a certain level of readiness. I will download the report in the chronological order. I also wanted to say that English is not my native language and I would have to use the translator sometimes. Due to this the terminology and information could be mistranslated. In advance, my sincere apologies if this may happen. Respectfully yours.
  2. My new project is a steam yacht from 1884. It's Loreley. The drawings are made by myself which I shared some time ago in this forum.
  3. Aveți cumva planuri pentru YACHTURI de lux?
  4. Hello, I am starting to build a model of the imperial yacht De Krone, donated to Peter I by the Prussian King Freed. Wilg. I in 1717 and brought to St. Petersburg in the spring of 1719.
  5. Good morning! As my Amati HMS Victory is currently on hiatus due to needing a good number of sheet replacements, I'll start work immediately on the future Vanguard Models release of the Royal Yacht, 'Duchess of Kingston'. As with my other VM stuff, this will be for the kit instruction manual. Chris conceded that (1) he hadn't taken enough photos of the original build, and (2) the design had changed significantly enough from his own build to merit a new build anyway, so the manual is representative of the final product. Yesterday, I received a large box with the final production parts, and also a second set of earlier parts, including PE sheets. The photos here are of the production parts, and I'll cobble together a dry fit of the bits later, to give you a very quick idea of how this goes together, before work starts proper. This kit must've taken an age to produce with all the sheets of pear, plus the pear overlays and beautiful engraving too. Here's what you can roughly expect to see in a final production kit: MDF Maple deck Ply parts Pear parts Other laser parts Strip wood Photo etch Resin parts Fittings etc. Rigging cord Acrylic display stand (with engraved name plates) It's interesting to see some of the design ideas, such as the stern/transom where the resin ornamentation sits atop the pear panel, and that panel has recesses engraved into it to allow the PE window frames to sit within! I'll post a dry fit image of the hull a little later on...
  6. Hi folks Well, I’ve been a bit impatient lately and started on my next model, Sapphire, before my previous model, Genesis is completely finished. Anyhow, Sapphire is based on an actual mega-yacht called, Okto (https://www.yachtcharterfleet.com/luxury-charter-yacht-43054/okto-yacht-charter-printable.pdf). As is customary with all of my miniature models, the interior accomodation will be fully detailed and viewable through removable decks and superstructure. I hope you can join me on Sapphire’s journey. Cheers. Patrick
  7. After some time away from model building ( about 3 months ), I finally have enough of a break to get a start on building the Buzzards Bay 14ftr. Designed by L. Francis Herreshoff. This will be my 3rd build log on this topic ( I have always had an admiration for this Boat ), However this build will be done in the upside down fashion.( the other 2 were built using a Keel/strongback setup ), I belive that building the Boat in this manner will ( the same as if it were built full scale ), will give a more accurate boat. I started by setting up the building jig, Cutting out the frames and setting them up in the jig. Here are the results
  8. One more new small project. My thanks to Cap'n'Bob for support. Best Regards! Igor.
  9. I started making Pen Duick a few years ago and I had long break. Now I am making the deck, and I will show pictures from the beginning. Pen Duick was named since 1935, is a cutter drawn in 1898 by William Fife III, famous naval architect, and built in Ireland under the name of Yum. With an overall length of 15.1 m and 10 m to the floating for 2.9 m of maximum width, it supports 160 m2 of sails. Since 1938, Eric Tabarly sailed on the Penduick bought by his father. The Penduick was restored a first time in 1958, to reinforce the hull by a thickness of polyester, then was rebuilt completely between 1983 and 1989. The mast is raised 20%. She remains one of the most beautiful classical sailing ships. drawings: differences between Yum & pen Duick: Images of the ship: Pen Duick sailing - (scan from the book) The scale is 1:20 The hull is made of wood - plywood ribs, maple, coated with epoxy resin. Deck is made of pear wood, more shades. Cheers, Matija.
  10. Hello Model Friends. After much research and more considerations, I decided to build the model of the "ROYAL CAROLINE 1749". The history of the Royal Caroline has been written x times, so I'll give up on more details. After the sparse construction drawings, as well as various to scale without drawings in the book by AotS I have strong doubts about the success of the project, but I try it anyway. The plan drawings by Boudriot, Delacroix from ANCRE publishing house, on the other hand, are top class in their own right, i very first cream. Thanks Mike for the help of the frame drawings. To the model: Scale: 1/48 Wood: German Elsbeere Overall lenght: 655,0 mm I will build the model with visible frames from the second barwood, as well as the interior. I have already installed the "backbone" of the model on/in the slipway building board. There are no photos of the individual parts, smoothly forgotten. Next step is the construction of forty-five douple frames, each frame consists of twelve parts, so I am busy in the near future. Karl (Sorry, Google translator)
  11. I have just been given this old yacht or coastal trader by a guy at work in his 60's,his dad used to play with this model as a young boy.It will be a slow restoration there is some good work on it,brass and some plastic.It looks like it's carved out of solid timber.It's about 1 metre long.The name on it is from a steamship that used to call into Lyttelton.I may strip all the paint off wait and see the deck is 10mm solid wood,the strip at the bottom is lead.Any info or advice to it's restoration will be greatly appreciated thanks ron.
  12. From the album: The Gretel

    © The Gretel by Ekis

  13. The wife bought me these plans last Christmas after seeing me looking at them on the NMM website, last week before Xmas she asked me where were they and why hadn't I built it yet???? I had actually copied the plans and made bulkhead patterns The plans appear to be at 1/32 but the stem of the boat is missing so full length isn't known however extending the lines and using the deck plan a reasonable assumption can be made A false keel was made from ply along with the bulkheads, the ship plans say longboat in the notes but it is fully decked with a state room, and fireplace below deck and a large capstan and large windlass, sliding bowsprit gives the impression of a cutter rig and layout so that's what im aiming for, I've gone for bulkheads as there's no framing plan and as its full decked out I can show some nice deck planking hopefully
  14. Hi fellas. I am currently building Emma on another thread but I want something just a bit smaller so as to carry it in a bag ( by train) to the model sailing club some 20 ks away. Some of us have to or prefer to do without a car. As a kid ( and older! ) I have built numerous Vic Smeed designs. In fact my claim to fame is that I came second in a " Tomboy " free flight competition at Middle Wallop in the UK some years back. Needless to say the " Tomboy" was a Vic Smeed design and he appeared on that day. THAT!!! was my day bowled over. They are all simple and they all sail/ fly. Vic was a genius. I met him. He was a charming English and very clever Gentleman. Always immaculately dressed mostly in a suit. I have just recently learnt that he was a fighter pilot. This in itself gains even more respect. He has written so much about model aircraft and also model boats. Model boats was always his high. He loved them. Anyway..having obtained my plans and complete building instructions from Canada to Australia ( building instructions written by Vic himself) , I have commenced the build. I just love the way that he has gone to depths of explaining the cost of each material in pounds , shillings and pence! Superb!. This alone has set me on a course of vintage model yacht building. When I tried to explain to the young cashier at Bunnings ( Australia ) that the item should cost 2/6pence as per plan, she looked at me in total disbelief!!! Not really... but just a bit of fun. I have used the old fashioned methods of replicating the drawings to wood by using tracing paper. Yes...they still make tracing paper. The build techniques are archaic but then so am I so it matters not. Here are a few starter pics. Pete
  15. Disclaimer This is all Pete's fault. Because I already have too many builds on the go I thought why not another one. I know there are a few others here who merrily go about building a few boats/ships at the same time one of them shall remain nameless but we all know who it is. Pete has already done enough waxing eloquently about the merits of the Herreshoff lineage of boat designs so there is no need for me to go into any great details here except to say that I completely agree with him on the elegance of the Herreshoff lines no matter what size he designed. Build Part 1 Pete sent me a printed copy of the drawing he is using for his new boat it was already printed at 1 1/2 inch to the foot. (thanks Pete) I scanned it in order to trace it for developing some detailed model plans the lines plan is 50% and the body plans are 100% I spent a lot of time studying the various images of the 14 on the net and was particularly drawn to the Port Hadlock WA Boat school photo stream There are a lot of pictures of the 14 under construction and it is this version of the hull that I intend to model as far as the main structure of the hull. I have chosen this one because of the clarity of the construction methodology visible in the pictures. Unfortunately there are no pictures that I have yet found of the beginning of the Port Hadlock boat which would have confirmed a few things about how they prepared the frames and if they used a set of mold forms with ribands to prepare the bent frames, but I suspect that is the method that was used. I used corel draw this time instead of Autocad because I am more familiar with all the curve functions in corel. I used the line width function to shape the frames instead of drawing the outlines of them and this seems to be working well. This hull will be a test of my skill at doing a proper planking job, I have learned so much since the first post on the Pilot Cutter (still planning on sailing her next summer) where I basically did not have a clue about what I was getting into and built that hull as if it were a strip built canoe. I have chosen 3/4 inch thick planks for the hull (3/32 inch) and wondered a while about what wood to use. I want to have the planks varnished and not painted (visions of Chucks planking job on his cutter for the clarity and elegant execution) as a goal but with a more reddish colour. I remembered the redwood panels from the salvaged garage door and did a little re-sawing to get enough planks for the task. stripped up to 3/32 x 9/16 (3/4 x 4 1/2) Next I tried to bend some 5/32 square stock by all the different methods that I have read about on this forum and snapped most of them (what am I doing wrong?) I remembered that I had a 5 foot by 5 foot sheet of 1mm birch aircraft ply so I cut some 3/16 strips up on the paper cutter, it worked very well surprisingly. I also printed and traced out one of the more challenging mould forms to add the frames to. Next I used the wide throat jewelers saw to fret out the mould to use as a form for laminating the rib/frame the material is 1/4 inch Baltic birch ply. The mold form was pinned to some cork covered homasote (at least that is what I think it is) and the 4 layers were laminated together. In order to cancel out any discrepancy from side to side I laminated two of the same side, I will cut out the middle of the mold to help with the clamping of the planks. This will now continue for the rest of the frames that will fit over the molds Michael
  16. Dear friends model builders, I am starting here a new build log in the name of my very good friend Mile Bijelić. We have registered Mile last weekend and since Mile has limited access to a computer and is just learning in getting used to it, I will be posting his photos more often. Nevertheless, Mile will read the comments and reply - possibly with a certain delay, you may excuse him. First to introduce Mile Bijelić from my point of view: Mile is a very kind and dear person who impressed me since many years with his extremely exact way of working with the models. As far as I am concerned, Mile made something over 20 model ships of higher complexity. I myself was always getting my jaws dropped when looking at the beauty he managed to express with his models. All the photos I made cannot express the feeling when I observe them in the nature. At the same time, Mile is an extremely uncomplicated, openhearted person willing to help without end. We were sitting, I can remember the winter where we had some repairing at the electrical installation in the district of the town Zagreb and it was cold, we were sitting in the coats in his room for 13 hours and in the evening we were using our pocket lamps. He was and is always here for me to support me with my (challenging) project (De Zeven Provincien, 1665 in scale 1:45). Mile won gold at the world Championship twice: in August 1998 with the Royal Caroline 1749, scale 1:35 and in September 2013 with the Royal Prince 1670, scale 1:70. Just for the introduction, I will post here the photo of Mile (he is in the blue shirt on the right, Royal Prince in the middle and myself am on the left side) and a second photo of Mile with his awards. From now, I will add photos under my name and Mile will write from his account directly. Cheers Dražen (in the name of Mile)
  17. Dear colleagues. Today, April 8, 2016 start construction of another ship model, the imperial yacht Standart. To begin with a brief historical background, drawings, historical photographs.and photos of the model of the Naval Museum in St. Petersburg. It was founded October 1, 1893 at the shipyard Burmeister and Wain in Copenhagen. Launched Aug. 4, 1895. It entered into service in 1896 as the Imperial yacht. Delivered to the port in May 1918. In 1933-1936, it converted into a minelayer. He participated in the productions of mine, the evacuation of the base Hanko garrison, fire support of ground forces. April 3, 1942 awarded the title of Guards. In the 1950's converted into a plavkazarmu, and in 1961 - into a floating target for tests of missile weapons. Scrapped in the early 1960s. Displacement 5480 tons. The dimensions of 112.2 x 15.4 x 6.6 m. Voruzhenie 8 - 47 mm booking Gears 2 steam engines 12000 hp 24 boiler, 2 screws The speed of 22 knots Cruising range 1400 miles at 12 knots. The crew of 16 officers and 357 sailors After conversion into a minelayer Displacement 6189 tons. The dimensions of 122.3 x 15.4 x 7 m. Voruzhenie 4 - 130/55-B 13, 7 - 76 mm 34K, 3 - 45 mm 21K, 3 - 12.7 mm machine gun (2 DSHK and Vickers 1) Booked conning tower - 12 mm Gears 2 steam engines 11426 hp 4 boilers Yarrow 2 screws The speed of 18 knots cruising range of 2260 miles at 12 knots. The crew of 29 officers and 361 sailor
  18. Dear friends I have started to build a sail ship model based on a french plan for which it was impossible to get additional information. The reason was that I lost my job in 2000 when the internet hype broke and never ever since than been employed again. Since than I have worked on all kind of issues and after years my old degree as a technical translator has proven to be the best source of income until in April 2012 I was hit by a stroke which has degraded some how my abilities. But this project has proven over the years to be a source for having every day an agenda that has no empty space and have my life organized, my mood up and my grey cells active I am telling you this, for one reason because this might help others to find in this hobby a way to stay on top in hard times, but also because this explains my main objective. I am not building this model to finish it, but to have a platform that keeps me studying, give a red line to keep touching fascinating areas of competence into which to dwell and stay modest and try to help anyone that might benefit from my knowledge, as I have benefitted from many who helped around the globe. My objective is to build a sailship modell able to navigate along a regatta course autonomously. Lets start with the description of the Carina. A project that started in 2008 as a "light version of the Sabrina", the first hull that I started in 2002. The Sabrina proved to be too demanding to start and so, because my son Andreas had to engage into a 1 year project for the school, he decided to do this with his father as Mentor and I hoped that the love for modelism would jump to the next generation, in which I did not succeed. This plan, a bit in bad shape because I did not take it into account to care more, was all I had to start with. As a consequence I decided to make the first step to digitize the content of the plan. Goal was to correct errors in the original plan that I found during the construction of the hull for the Sabrina. So Andreas started by pasing the image of the views of the hull onto milimeter paper by oiling the paper of the plan and pinching with needles to pass the lines onto the the paper with 1 mm squares on it, 3/64", sorry we are metric outside the USA. Then we passed the digitized values into a CAD SW. We did digitized and passed the following points of each frame along the longitudinal axis of the view of the hull. As a base line we took the waterline, assigning it the value "0" and moved upwards in steps of 20 mm or 60/64" documenting it by increasing the digit next to the horizontal line. So frame 3 is already above the waterline. Traditionally we recorded the deck line to document where the frame changes from the hull to the deck. We than passed the values into an excel sheet to get visually the information where the digitized values were wrong by one or more reasons. The aim is to get continues curves. Today I would do it differently. After making sure the smooth curves in the CAD images of the frames did result in smooth curves we did print the pictures of the frames onto a thicker paper, about 160 gr paper, 5,65 oz, to prevent the glue with which we fixed them onto the wood, would modify the shape by it making it wet. The would choosen is a kind of triplex which is used to form the boxes were concrete is put into in construction. 5 mm thick, or 45/64". The reason is the wood is very brittle and so it can be removed easier later. I choose the method of putting the frames onto a table, upside-down in a way the waterline of all frames was in one level. You can see the tabs at the edges and how they were mounted on the table in the folowing picture that shows how I am removing the finished hull from the table.
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