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Metal - brass or Ali - turnbuckles


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Hi everyone. Starting to detail the hull and deck of my Leeuwin so the rigging won't be too far off. Unfortunately being a modern tall ship, she uses turnbuckles for all stays and shrouds. I know some are available through kit manufacturer accessories but wanted to give making them a shot as I need about 36-38 of them. Anyone tried this in the past? Or anyone have any tips mainly.

Thanks

Anton T

 

Current build

1/78 Sovereign of the Seas - Sergal - kit bashed

1/72 Arleigh Burke class DDG flight iia/iii - Sratch built RC - no log

 

Waiting for further inspiration

STS Leeuwin II 1/56 scratch built (90% completed)

 

Previous builds - completed

1/72 HMAS Brisbane, Airwarfare Destroyer 2014 -Scratch built RC - completed

1/64 HMS Diana 1796 - caldercraft kit - completed

1/75 Friesland 1668- mamoli kit - completed

1/96 HMAS Newcastle FFG 2011- scratch built RC - completed

1/75 Vasa - Billing Boats - completed

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Thanks mick. Those are actually perfect, though at 1.54 euro each... About $3 aus. Also turns out I need 30 18.5mm and 28 14.5mm turnbuckles... So that's a whopping $160... Just for turnbuckles.... They do look good though.

Edited by Tallshiptragic

Anton T

 

Current build

1/78 Sovereign of the Seas - Sergal - kit bashed

1/72 Arleigh Burke class DDG flight iia/iii - Sratch built RC - no log

 

Waiting for further inspiration

STS Leeuwin II 1/56 scratch built (90% completed)

 

Previous builds - completed

1/72 HMAS Brisbane, Airwarfare Destroyer 2014 -Scratch built RC - completed

1/64 HMS Diana 1796 - caldercraft kit - completed

1/75 Friesland 1668- mamoli kit - completed

1/96 HMAS Newcastle FFG 2011- scratch built RC - completed

1/75 Vasa - Billing Boats - completed

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I agree with Mick.  If RB Models - the source I use for turnbuckles - has anything close to what you want, but y them and alter the body or ends as needed as this will be a lot less work.  I have not been able to find left hand thread taps in the sizes I have needed to even consider making them from scratch.

Kurt

Kurt Van Dahm

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Butch O'Hare - IPMS

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Thanks Kurt, yeah that was my same result over here. I may just have to bite the bullet and order them.

Below is rb's working version and one of the mizzen shroud turnbuckles. Have to say, damn close looking wise.

post-18517-0-69895500-1426438819.jpg

post-18517-0-20128600-1426438924_thumb.jpg

Anton T

 

Current build

1/78 Sovereign of the Seas - Sergal - kit bashed

1/72 Arleigh Burke class DDG flight iia/iii - Sratch built RC - no log

 

Waiting for further inspiration

STS Leeuwin II 1/56 scratch built (90% completed)

 

Previous builds - completed

1/72 HMAS Brisbane, Airwarfare Destroyer 2014 -Scratch built RC - completed

1/64 HMS Diana 1796 - caldercraft kit - completed

1/75 Friesland 1668- mamoli kit - completed

1/96 HMAS Newcastle FFG 2011- scratch built RC - completed

1/75 Vasa - Billing Boats - completed

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Kurt, was wondering about the needed left hand taps and dies. Might be able to find someone using a jewelers lathe with a lead screw that could make a tap or two or three, when hardened use one to thread several tap blanks. Made from tool steel and hardened and tempered they should be durable, just make several while set up. Someone on this forum probably knows how or someone who has done it. Could be a fun little project of it self.

jud

Edited by jud
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Anton,

Have you considered just using brass rod and tubing and making some (without the threads)?  They would be none functional, of course.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Hi mark, yeah I will try that. Though just like the thought of having scale looking ones without the price haha. I'll do a couple mock ups and see how they look.

Anton T

 

Current build

1/78 Sovereign of the Seas - Sergal - kit bashed

1/72 Arleigh Burke class DDG flight iia/iii - Sratch built RC - no log

 

Waiting for further inspiration

STS Leeuwin II 1/56 scratch built (90% completed)

 

Previous builds - completed

1/72 HMAS Brisbane, Airwarfare Destroyer 2014 -Scratch built RC - completed

1/64 HMS Diana 1796 - caldercraft kit - completed

1/75 Friesland 1668- mamoli kit - completed

1/96 HMAS Newcastle FFG 2011- scratch built RC - completed

1/75 Vasa - Billing Boats - completed

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Anton, I've made (non working) bottle screws by using a length of brass tube for the body and brass wire for the screws.  Just cut the tube to length, form an eye in one end of the wire, pass it through the tube and then form and eye on the other end at the appropriate length.  A spot of solder on the eyes and in the tube will keep everything in place.  A bit tedious with the number you need, perhaps, but you'll be able to say that you made it!

 

John

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  • 1 month later...

Anton

I need to make 70 plus for a 4 master schooner. I bought 200 cap screws 0 x 90 say 11$ then 3/32 brass tube and 1/16 rod for support while filing. I crimp the cap screws into the tube and the each turn but don't pull out. I then make either ring or clevis. This works for 1:48 scale where I need them to be under 4 feet up top or nearly 5 feet 1.25 inch for the shrouds. If smaller say 1:96 I used 1/16 tube and copper wire glued in or perhaps solder if under any

Load.

I am still an amateur at this but am researching and thought to share. There are photos on my link.

Cheers

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Depending on thee size you can fudge the threads I think.  But it would be nice to have them threaded to add to the look.

David B

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