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"Rowing Dinghy" - a kit build to learn basic skills (moved by admin)


jsolka

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I want to learn gradually so I can eventually build my real Spray to travel the world round and round:).

It is also a very basic guide on sanding for very basic absolute beginners.

I used a glass surface to guide my sanding block so it stays at the right angle. I also glued pieces of sandpaper to it so I could have more control over sanding.

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Edited by Joshua
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First mistakes - sanded too much, and now the pieces are a tad smaller than they appear on the plan (and surfaces weren't perfectly true). This could be not entirely me fault since the precut pieces didn't allow for sanding (perhaps?). While building from scratch this could be compensated by cutting pieces a bit larger. Also I think that when I would really like surfaces to be perfect, I may consider using planes for truing surfaces rather than sandpaper. Does anybody have any advise/recommendations about hand planes that can be used in model making. I've seem some cute brass and wood micro block planes, but wasn't fully convinced. 

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good start ... but now I am hungry!

Alan O'Neill
"only dead fish go with the flow"   :dancetl6:

Ongoing Build (31 Dec 2013) - HMS BELLEROPHON (1786), POF scratch build, scale 1:64, 74 gun 3rd rate Man of War, Arrogant Class

Member of the Model Shipwrights of Niagara, Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada (2016), and the Nautical Research Guild (since 2014)

Associate member of the Nautical Research and Model Ship Society (2021)

Offshore member of The Society of Model Shipwrights (2021)

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On a more serious note...

 

I have an old marble pastry rolling flat to use to keep items flat for assembly but hadn't thought to use it (or glass) for sanding

 

I have seen here on the forums (and so have used) nail file boards for sanding.  That was handy and timely.

 

It is tough learning when to say "when" (to know when to stop sanding).

I've read where some use old fashion carbon paper slipped between pieces during dry fitting to mark / highlight the bumps to sand.

 

I have also found it is easier to stop early and dry fit pieces to check many times than it is to stop late and have a bad fit ...  I have a good scrap collection started to prove it.

Alan O'Neill
"only dead fish go with the flow"   :dancetl6:

Ongoing Build (31 Dec 2013) - HMS BELLEROPHON (1786), POF scratch build, scale 1:64, 74 gun 3rd rate Man of War, Arrogant Class

Member of the Model Shipwrights of Niagara, Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada (2016), and the Nautical Research Guild (since 2014)

Associate member of the Nautical Research and Model Ship Society (2021)

Offshore member of The Society of Model Shipwrights (2021)

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Lee Valley tools makes a set of miniature planes - low angle block and shoulder - that I've used successfully on my models. Even tho they are super small they have a very sharp edge and cut very well. See http://www.leevalley.com/US/gifts/page.aspx?p=70138&cat=4,104,53212,70138 and http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=64300&cat=1,230,41182,64300  They also have a set of miniature chisels and spokeshake, both of which I have and use frequently. But they are miniature and holding them in your hand takes a little getting used to. They work just as well as their full sized models.

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For finger planes you cannot beat Lee Valley I have some of there planes and think hey were worth every penny.

David B

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I've read where some use old fashion carbon paper slipped between pieces during dry fitting to mark / highlight the bumps to sand.

 

 

It seems a good idea. And yeah, checking during the process... I know. Measure twice, cut once, I have to work on it.

Thanks

Edited by Joshua
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Lee Valley tools makes a set of miniature planes - low angle block and shoulder - that I've used successfully on my models. Even tho they are super small they have a very sharp edge and cut very well. See http://www.leevalley.com/US/gifts/page.aspx?p=70138&cat=4,104,53212,70138 and http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=64300&cat=1,230,41182,64300  They also have a set of miniature chisels and spokeshake, both of which I have and use frequently. But they are miniature and holding them in your hand takes a little getting used to. They work just as well as their full sized models.

 

 

For finger planes you cannot beat Lee Valley I have some of there planes and think hey were worth every penny.

David B

 

"Supplied in a French-fitted embossed leatherette box" - hmm... Sounds a little effeminate:)

But seriously - I know Lee Valley, and their tools are very good. And what was I thinking to consider planes that cost $10 for three. Best to spend a bit more. One question - can you use a honing guide on their blades?

 

What do you think of those?

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=50232&cat=1,41182

 

There are some more, but don't won't to push the envelope.  I think the most useful would be one with good square shape for shooting. The also have an edge plane. Okay, that's enough.

 

Thank you gentlemen.  

Edited by Joshua
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