Izzy Madd Posted March 17, 2015 Share #1 Posted March 17, 2015 Hi, Im what I describe as a Re-Newbie, as it's been so long since my last kit model. I'm about to start on the Heller 1/100 HMS Victory. While this is plastic I'd like to add a set of wood decks. Simply because. Working with wood is no problem as I've been making scratch models of furniture for years. Usually 1/1 scale :-). I was a cabinetmaker until illness. But enough of that. I'm struggling to find any idea of how the planks were laid out, what size they should be, width and length, how far the treenails should be placed. Anything really. I'm not after über accurate just looks good. Can anyone help, with anything even just a link or decent image. Thanks Izzy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
druxey Posted March 19, 2015 Share #2 Posted March 19, 2015 Deck planking in the time of Victory would have been 10" to 12" wide. It was in lengths of 24' 0" to 28' 0" with butts sitting on a beam. You will need to know where the beams are located. C. N. Longridge's The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships will be a good guide for you. It has extensive illustrations, of the ship, plans and text. Have fun! Izzy Madd 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philg88 Posted March 19, 2015 Share #3 Posted March 19, 2015 The decks on the Victory used a system known as "four butt shift planking" so that no planks attached to the same beam within four planks widths of each other - plank joints aligned athwartships every fifth plank. A Google search for the term will give you a bunch of images, which should help. Cheers, Philip Izzy Madd 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted March 19, 2015 Share #4 Posted March 19, 2015 Have a look here for planking schemes: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Izzy Madd Posted March 19, 2015 Author Share #5 Posted March 19, 2015 Have a look here for planking schemes: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php I've already scoured through the very helpful articles. I'm looking for information relating as much as poss to the Victory herself. Izzy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted March 19, 2015 Share #6 Posted March 19, 2015 Ah... blew it... back to my hole. I've already scoured through the very helpful articles. I'm looking for information relating as much as poss to the Victory herself.Izzy Izzy Madd 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Izzy Madd Posted March 19, 2015 Author Share #7 Posted March 19, 2015 Ah... blew it... back to my hole. Thanks for the pointer as it was only a few days ago I found that section. And it does help in explaining the butt systems just not specific ships. So don't dissape too far down that hole. Just sort of regroup for another salvos (-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Izzy Madd Posted March 23, 2015 Author Share #8 Posted March 23, 2015 Having just got my hands on a copy of "Anatomy of Nelson's Ships" I'm forced to ask a question of the profound knowledge to be found here. Most wooden decking I've seen and I think this may include Dafi's, but not sure. Show treenails in pairs. But Longridge who claims to have gotten hold of "Several accurate blue prints" only places one treenails at each joint and beam. So which is the accepted norm for the Victory? As a wood butcher before now I'm well aware of the logic of using only one nail at each anchor point. But I'm also aware of the dangers involved if the planks aren't quarter sawn. So any pointer most welcome. Thanks Very Dizzy Izzy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted March 23, 2015 Share #9 Posted March 23, 2015 Izzy, I think it depends on how wide the planks are. I've seen planking patterns with as many as 3 treenails on each plank at the beam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
druxey Posted March 24, 2015 Share #10 Posted March 24, 2015 Longridge simplified his deck treenailing, I believe. In reality, wood plugs were used over nails and the grain matched that of the deck, so were virtually invisible. At 1:100 scale, I'd leave them off. JerseyCity Frankie, mtaylor, justsayrow and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philg88 Posted March 24, 2015 Share #11 Posted March 24, 2015 I don't know why Longridge's plans show it like that, but if you look at McKay's later work The 100 gun ship Victory, he doesn't show any treenails so maybe it's down to artistic licence. 19th century practice seems to have used four trenails (two per plank) at each butt joint plus a single run of treenails into each deck beam abaft. There are plenty of photos of Victory's deck knocking about that confirm use of that system but as Druxey says above, they wouldn't be visible at 1:100. foxy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxy Posted July 24, 2015 Share #12 Posted July 24, 2015 (edited) I use 2mm and 3 mm maple wood for my 1/100 build. 2mm through out. 3mm for the edges were shape matters. Joins at four apart with three apart for the poop deck. For the cwalking I use a felt tip pen one side. Hope this is usefull. Frank Edited July 24, 2015 by foxy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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