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I'm new to the world of staining, and I need some info on how best to approach this. I am ready to stain the deck on my Niagara, and was wondering what tips/process and product(s) would work. The wood is typical basswood and it's 90% sanded. Some pics are in my build log. Any info will be greatly appreciated!!

 

Thanks!

-Rich

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I think a clear coat would be fine, unless you want to change the color of it. I have had good luck with Minwax polycrylic, but others will probably have some better ideas.

 

Russ

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When working with basswood (and most hobby woods really),  you want to use a conditioner on the wood before applying the stain.  Minwax makes a good one which I have had success with.  It gets into the wood so when you apply the stain it evens out the color and reduces/removes blotchiness, giving you a nice even finish.

-Adam

 

Current Builds

Santa Maria - Artesania Latina (1:65) POB

MayFlower - Model Shipways (5/32"=1') POB
Blue Shadow - Mamoli Revolutionary War Brigantine. (Fict) (1:64) POB (Recommissioned as the Kara June)

 

On The Shelf Waiting so Patiently

USRC Ranger - Corel (1:50) POB

18th Century Longboat - Model Shipways (1:4) POF

La Nina - Artesania Latina (1:65) POB

U.S Brig Syren - Model Shipways (1:64) POB

 

Completed Builds

Phantom NY Pilot Boat - Model Shipways (1:96) Solid Hull

 

Decommissioned Builds
(Time and conditions were not good to these. They have been cancelled =( )

Willie L Bennett - Model Shipways (1:32) POF
USRC Harriet Lane - Model Shipways (1:128) Solid Hull

 

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Okay, for basswood, I use Minwax prestain conditioner and then the stain. You apply the conditioner and it will create a surface that will absorb the stain evenly. Otherwise you could have a blotchy appearance. I have used this routine on basswood with good success. The typical sanding sealer may not do the trick. I have seen some cases where people had uneven results using a sanding sealer.

 

You should definitely create a small mock up of your planking and test before you do it on the actual model. \

 

Russ

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I second the suggestions on using pre-conditioner.  Minwax makes cans of stain about 6oz. in size but the pre-conditioner is a little larger.

 

One thing to keep in mind.  If you pick a stain color, say Golden Oak, it's fairly dark.  If you want to lighten it up, dilute with the 'Natural' stain.  For example, I used about a 50/50 mix throughout.  If mixing, always use the same brand of stain.

 

And yes..........experiment before you take brush to actual model.

 

Good luck!

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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I am not sure about the size of the prestain conditioner. I have a large can of it and that may be all that they have.

 

Russ

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I just checked mine Russ.  The stains are 8 oz. the pre-stain 16 oz.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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Hi Rich

i will be interested to see what you do. Generally decks are quite light in colour given all the cleaning they are subject to. 

So i am going to matte varnish ( not colour it) only, 

 

Regards

Ken

Under construction  US Brig Niagara

 

Completed  HMB Endeavour - Caldercraft

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Ken,

 

That's what I kind of want to do- keep it light, yet bring out some color in the wood.  I just made some test pieces to try with Minwax Golden Pecan, so after dinner I'll try the conditioner, sand, then add the stain....  we shall see~~~

 

-Rich

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Do not sand the conditioner at all. Follow the instructions on the can. Put it on, wait about 10 minutes, wipe off the excess, and then stain within a couple of hours. I would stain it right after you wipe off the excess conditioner. No sanding in between conditioner and stain.

 

Russ

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  • 3 months later...

I just finished staining my deck and used a very quality line of products from the prepping to the stain itself. Storm System products come in five different levels based on the climate conditions the wood will be enduring and also then color options if you do not want a clear finish. The application and durability of this line so far has been phenomenal and I highly recommend looking in to purchasing it for your staining needs!
 

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  • 4 weeks later...

instead of stain i use dried shellac flakes. they are disolved in denatured alcohol and goes on very smoothly. i build colonial reproduction furniture and that is how i finish my projects. just do a google search. it comes in many different shades from a blonde to a dark garnett. you can darken or lighten the color by the amount of flakes you add. the flakes store forever and you can mix up just what you will need

current build : model shipways willie bennett

 

 

 

" Never make a promise that you can't keep , a man's word is his honor" 

 

Scott I Pollack

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Ok personally i think decks look better if they are lighter (deck furniture can get lost in the darkness), and as others have said start lighter and test!!

Kits owned: Mamoli Royal Louis, Mamoli Friesland, Mamoli HMS Victory 1:90, Occre Santisima Trinidad, Constructo HMS Prince

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