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HMS Warspite by Old Collingwood - FINISHED - Academy - 1/350 scale - PLASTIC


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Good day all,   another good day on the ole girl,   I managed to paint up both x and y turrets including doing a bit of shading and dry brushing, by using a fine pencil and dry white painting.

 

So both turrets are now glued in position and I can move on to the main structure.

 

Here a few pics showing where I am at this stage.

 

OC.

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Evening all,   once again many thanks for the likes those taking the time to view my build.

 

I made my first steps at assembling the main forward block - first stage is to work on the first level oerlikon deck,   after tyding up the bulwarks I made the decision to fit some wood decking - this required me to make a paper template first to get the correct shape of the fittings already on the deck,  after cutting and test fitting a few times, I then transfered this onto the wood deck pieces I have left over, then I gently cut them out.

I then painted dark deck grey around the edges where there is no decking,   next stage will be to add the middle gun tub and the bottom pieces.

 

Just the two pictures.

 

OC.

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Evening all,   more progress with front lower section, I added the middle gun tubs and filled and sanded the area,  then a few areas of painting was completed, finishing off with the two sides being fitted.

 

Just the two pics showing the state of play with the assembly dry fitted on the deck.

 

OC.

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6 minutes ago, lmagna said:

I can't see where you are creating any boredom OC. Looking over your last few sets of update pictures you are getting 4-10 "reactions" to each post. So you must be keeping someone happy.

Thanks lou,   I had wondered as sometime to me the work im doing can feel repetitive - touching up work then going back over it to correct some over paint,   so when I post some work on here it can be from several hours work - but not show much for it.

 

OC.

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nawwwww.....just throw it out there!  if it sticks,  your good!  :D  :D     sometimes I show stuff that's taken me over a day to do.......I do try and limit redos........for fear that someone will like it,  and I go and change it {not often I do them anyway}.

 

lead on Mc Duff............Lou is keeping score  ;) 

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At the scale you're working a lot seems as a trivial update, whilst you may have been at it for any number of hours ... Yesterday I chucked some brass eyelets (8pcs), a "balcony", and a grating on a funnel the size of an inch long pencil ... it took me 3 hours, and it doesn't show it, hell, you can hardly see the brass on the funnel ;)

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14 hours ago, cog said:

At the scale you're working a lot seems as a trivial update, whilst you may have been at it for any number of hours ... Yesterday I chucked some brass eyelets (8pcs), a "balcony", and a grating on a funnel the size of an inch long pencil ... it took me 3 hours, and it doesn't show it, hell, you can hardly see the brass on the funnel ;)

Very true mate,  its easy to get lost in the scale when working  under a magnifier and taking macro photos,  in the same way we can be very judgemental f our own close up work ( I keep seeing a dusty messy job with my work - one day in the very distant future I must try to save up for a sprayer)

 

OC.

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Evening all,   on the subject of dust (from my previous post)   I have been working on the same area adding some tiny derrick brackets, then painting the two camo colors, then I fitted the two derrick cable support arms, these fitted with ca, they slide down smearing ca glue over my paintwork, when dry I scraped the hard ca glue to try to remove it, then re touched the area with my brush,   then I painted the plastic derrick and ca'd some wire to the end - then I glued to the barckets the derrick - again this moved as it was so small and flimsy marring the paintwork with ca, again this had to be scaraped away and the touched up, just not as neat as the original paintwork.

 

So just the two pics tonight.

 

OC.

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34 minutes ago, cog said:

On the matter of close ups ... take more distance  ;) :)

 

Can't you strain the paint through a fine sieve ...

Im already scraping the barrel with the paint quantity,     some folk used to suggest straining paint through some types of cloth,   if I tried that I would have no paint left, to be honest I looked at the three main plastic jars AP507A. AP507B and AP507C  befor I statted my recent re build  and thought even then that 507B and C  where both looking a bit worse for ware and low, but I thought best to just carry on regardless  and see how I get on.

 

 

OC.

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1 hour ago, lmagna said:

You might try a few drops of paint thinner and stir it really well. If you do need to strain it an inexpensive coffee filter that you may even already have on hand can do pretty well.

Just my amateur .02 worth. 

No mate, I just drink coffee out of a jar that just requires milk and water,   I have tried thinning it down with disstilled water,  I found the bottom of the jars had collected alot of sediement, and even after  vigorous stiring and shaking till my hand nearly fell off, it still has some residue that comes out and I cant brush it out smooth enough on the model.

Thing is im down to about a fifth of the remaining paint so no wonder im getting all the sediment off the bottom.

 

OC.

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Good day all,  so  despite my paint woes I have been able to fix somemore bits on the forward lower deck build-up,  these were painted earlier being small parts consisting of  - the other derrick and wire cable,  a small section of railing the two paravanes,  then I  drilled out a few port holes but left a few closed.

I then gave the completed section a quick coat of clear matt by hand to seal it,   then I glued it down onto the deck.

 

Here are a few pics showing this stage but also the with hanger/boat assembly dry fitted just to get an idea how its all coming along.

 

OC.

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19 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

I have tried thinning it down with disstilled wate

Maybe someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I believe water just thins the paint but does nothing about dissolving the pigments back into solution.

 

I have had MUCH better results with older paints using, in my case, Testors Model Master Acryl Universal Acrylic Thinner. I have a 4 oz bottle that has lasted a LONG time. The bottle recommends a four-to-one mix depending on the viscosity of the paint being used. I believe that it not only thins the paint, but also brings the pigments back into solution.

 

It is only slightly more expensive than a new bottle of paint and goes much further. You may want to give it, or something like it a try instead of water. I also use window cleaning solution, (Blue) instead of water as a thinner.

 

In spite of all your paint issues your build is looking good.

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30 minutes ago, lmagna said:

Maybe someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I believe water just thins the paint but does nothing about dissolving the pigments back into solution.

 

I have had MUCH better results with older paints using, in my case, Testors Model Master Acryl Universal Acrylic Thinner. I have a 4 oz bottle that has lasted a LONG time. The bottle recommends a four-to-one mix depending on the viscosity of the paint being used. I believe that it not only thins the paint, but also brings the pigments back into solution.

 

It is only slightly more expensive than a new bottle of paint and goes much further. You may want to give it, or something like it a try instead of water. I also use window cleaning solution, (Blue) instead of water as a thinner.

 

In spite of all your paint issues your build is looking good.

Thanks lou,   I always assumed water was ok to thin and break down the thickness of the paint?

 

OC.

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Guys, I'd use the branded thinner recommended for the line of paint you are using, since you're trying to dilute and spray or brush it onto your model. You want it to go on smooth. Use the water, Windex, or home brewed other thinners to clean brushes and air brushes. And wash the paint crumbs, stuck up in the bristles, out with soap and water. I have some old brushes I used to apply oil based paint, back in the day. Now I use them for dry brushing.

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1 hour ago, Old Collingwood said:

Thanks lou,   I always assumed water was ok to thin and break down the thickness of the paint?

It is certainly OK, almost everyone just uses water to one extent or another to thin and clean Acrylics. Some also use window cleaner, (Windex or similar here in the US) and/or Alcohol as thinners or dryers etc.

 

My suggestion on using actual Acrylic thinner instead of the other choices was only for the possible added benefit of rejuvenating the pigments in old paints.

 

I have used this bottle of Testors to revive a number of jars of paint from numerous manufacturers over the years for both brush painting and airbrush use. Some of the bottles were almost maple syrup thick. Once I even revived a bottle of dried paint when my grandson left the lid lose and used it for brush painting. Had to let it sit a few days, and I did not try to airbrush with it at all, but it worked fine for painting figures which is what my grandson and I were doing at the time. (Just shows how cheap I am though). 

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33 minutes ago, Canute said:

I'd use the branded thinner recommended for the line of paint you are using

Ken

In some cases the bottles of paint I own are made by companies that are no longer making model paints at all! In fact my bottle of Testors Universal is marked with the logos for Model Master, Pactra, and POLLY Scale! I think these are all paints made by Testors today but the bottles no longer are labeled the same. Maybe I have been lucky but this particular bottle/brand of thinner has worked fine on everything I have used it in.

 

Now watch the next time I use it turn the paint into some kind of curdled mess! :huh::(

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That's some excellent looking brush paint work, OC. I like it a lot. It shows your talent with a brush, and that's something most of us have forgotten how to do or maybe never learned.

And it seems to me you are enjoying yourself by doing it. After all, that is the main purpose of our hobby, enjoy it, relax, and unwind. 

  

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I'll just mention this one little thing that often amounts to a big thing (with paint) down the road.

Each and every time you remove the cap from your paint bottle, wipe off any excess paint from the rim of the jar and also wipe down the inside of the lid where it screws down to the top of the paint bottle, before you put the cap back on the bottle.

Why? A large cause (if not the cause) of paint chips inside you bottle is dried paint that accumulated at the lid and came off and fell inside the bottle when you removed and reapplied the lid. That's where all the little bits and pieces of paint are coming from that you can't break down for a smooth flow. Once that bottle gets enough of those pesky dried paint flecks inside it, your paint jobs and frustration will grow and grow.

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20 minutes ago, lmagna said:

Ken

In some cases the bottles of paint I own are made by companies that are no longer making model paints at all! In fact my bottle of Testors Universal is marked with the logos for Model Master, Pactra, and POLLY Scale! I think these are all paints made by Testors today but the bottles no longer are labeled the same. Maybe I have been lucky but this particular bottle/brand of thinner has worked fine on everything I have used it in.

 

Now watch the next time I use it turn the paint into some kind of curdled mess! :huh::(

Thank goodness for Acrylics - it was the best day of my life when I first started using them over enamels, no more turps/thiners  smell in the room with the wifes acute nose and dislike of strong smells,   and the shear convenience of just having a jar of distilled water to clean brushes and a rag between color coats.

 

OC.

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2 minutes ago, CDW said:

I'll just mention this one little thing that often amounts to a big thing (with paint) down the road.

Each and every time you remove the cap from your paint bottle, wipe off any excess paint from the rim of the jar and also wipe down the inside of the lid where it screws down to the top of the paint bottle, before you put the cap back on the bottle.

Why? A large cause (if not the cause) of paint chips inside you bottle is dried paint that accumulated at the lid and came off and fell inside the bottle when you removed and reapplied the lid. That's where all the little bits and pieces of paint are coming from that you can't break down for a smooth flow. Once that bottle gets enough of those pesky dried paint flecks inside it, your paint jobs and frustration will grow and grow.

Yep, I try to do the same but perhaps I was guilty of not doing it enough beforehand.

 

OC.

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