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Right on Henry. If I were fifty years younger and knew what I know now, I might make a pretty good sailor on the real ship in Boston.

 

Besides all the things you mentioned that I have learned, I actually am having fun doing and learning more. in the last year or so, I have honed my small wood working skills, learned how to braze and solder better, etc. etc. I even know how to run a sewing machine a tad better than my wife (so she tells me here on Valentine's Day).

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I just had to add two more blocks near the mizzen mastcap. It is a real jungle up there.

Mind you, if you don't add sails things are a lot simpler, but not as much fun. B)

 

In the picture below I counted 14 blocks, two of which are not yet rigged. Then there is one more hiding behind the mast. The main topsail braces come back here also and then down the mizzen mast.

Now I know why I was confused and frustrated a few weeks ago. But I just try to take in stride. :D
 

Of course, if I had taken the time to study all of this and put the blocks where they belong before mounting the sail . . . .?

post-246-0-25341900-1392425827_thumb.jpg

 

I hate these close-ups. They show all the mistakes and flaws.

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Yes, but as you pointed out, the cool thing is that you now understand not only how to use and recognize each line but also how to rig it properly.

Your last word is not quite correct.

I have rigged and in some cases 'rigged' the line in the wrong direction. As I mentioned earlier, I think I know the purpose of the various lines, but not where they are (or are supposed) to go. Many of those blocks and lines were installed when I didn't know any better and was too far along to correct my mistakes.

There is always a 'next time'.

Thanks  Henry.

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Jay,

 

Are furled sails any easier to work on than flying sails?

 

Harvey

Absolutely yes.

The furled sails don't require a sewing machine if you simply use a pencil line for the seams. You don't have to add all those lines like the leech, bunt and clew lines (plus all the blocks that go with them), etc. The only line I used for the furled sails was the sheet which is attached to the little piece hanging down. The sheet goes down to the spar below and I simply tied it off underneath that.

 

When I decided to add some of the flying sails I wanted to also include most of the lines that go with that. Hence all those blocks. The only lines I have not included are the lifts, the lines that allow the spars to be rotated vertically. They were used primarily in port.

 

When you only use furled sails you can get by with having the halliards, the sheets, the braces and a couple more such as the jack jeers. It makes the rigging a lot less complicated.

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Another hold up.

 

My admiral and I noticed this morning that cabinets along the wall in My Garage were tilting, hanging awkwardly and needed some attention, might come crashing down on tools, etc.

It was probably one of those earthquakes we have here, you know.

 

But it is taking me a lot of time to re-do things in my 'Work shop'.

I am even thinking of making space for a mill!!

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right Harv

 

I am looking at the Micro Mill from Little Machine shop, Model 4660 with the ER-16 spindle. It can go up to 5000 rpm. Along with their Tooling Package it should set me back a grand or so.

I wonder if anyone has one and what there thoughts are.

Perhaps I will have to post the question elsewhere.

 

I just played 'Mr. Electrician' this morning and now it is back to hang cabinets the right way. Earthquake proof them and keep the real heavy stuff lower to the ground (but not too low because then the termites can get to them).

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Thanks Tex.

As you can see from the above, right now I am trying to decide about a mill that fits our modeling 'needs'???

It is another 'toy' but will be useful to make some fixtures and do a lot of other things I have been thinking about for my 'next one'.

 

Keep up the work on your Connies, my friend. It is a real challenge, but very interesting.

Are you building both at the same time???

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Hi Jay, I had a Sherline mill and lathe. Both were wonderful. Lost in a divorce. Can't afford another one at the time. My Conny is finished,except the final mount, which I have but haven't finished yet. I'm currently starting to rig the C.W. Morgan. The Conny started when I was 19, finished last April...I'm 64 now...long project. Good luck with the mill. One good thing about Sherline is they have all the "toys" to go with them.

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Hi Jay

Know nothing about that mill and I couldn't get one in NZ in any case. Since I keep on contemplating getting a mill my research headed me towards the Proxxon Micro Mill MF70. I know there are better but at a significantly greater cost. The Proxxon appears in many milling pictures in many logs here and that, as well as the relatively low cost, convinces me that if I ever get a mill it will be a MF70. I wonder if it is more $$ than your selection?

 

Cheers

Alistair

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Hi Alistair,

I am not surprised about your reply regarding the mill.

I just placed the order for one and found out that to ship this Micro Mill to New Zealand would add about $400 US to the price tag. I am sure you are aware of these costs because they can add up fast. The whole crate of this mill alone would weigh about 124 pounds (at least here in the US).

LMS does not add a 'handling' charge, just the cost of the freight. The extra cost for me was about $66.

 

I am anxious to try this baby out and have made room in the garage. More later about this when I get it next week.

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Congrats on the new purchase Jay! I am sure you will be whizzing out barrels and banisters in no time! I'll be watching for the videos!...lol

Thanks again guys, but I will not be whizzing barrels that fast. I did make some, castings actually, but did not like the results.

They were all lob-sided and were hard to control with all those trimmings such as the bands that go around each one.

I still hate close-ups but here it is.

Now I am also experimenting with making my own out of wood using a lathe. But that is another story.

post-246-0-04678400-1393032897_thumb.jpg

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The bands are tricky. I used electrical heat shrink tubing to make mine and they turned out fairly well (although the bands are a little too thick - it is traded off to a clean look). I found some hardwood dowels that had a nice multicolor grain and shaped them on a simple drill press. The multi-colors took on the look of staves surprisingly well for such simple effort.

 

 

post-916-0-96103100-1393051599_thumb.jpg

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Thank you David. All it takes is time and patience.

Lambsbk I like your barrels.

There was an earlier discussion about the sizes of barrels. If you are interested go to http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2151-barrel-sizes/?hl=barrels#entry55441

 

When I find time I'll have to make some more out of dowel like I did before (in the post above) and forget about those dumb castings. In fact, I am sorry I even showed them and wasted my time trying to put those bands on by hand.

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Hi Geoff, I don't have the mill yet. I just ordered it on Thursday.

 

About making barrels and those bands. Here is a possibility in addition to the shrink tape Lambsbk used.

I have some pin striping tape that I was going to use for window panes, but never got around to using it.

Sorry, the picture is not very clear, but the tape I have is white, but it is available in black and other colors.

The one to the right is 0.010 inches wide which translates to 0.75 inches actual. The other one is 1/32 inch wide (about 2.5 inches). I tried to add some 'rust' and that is questionable.

Any way you get the idea.

post-246-0-93291800-1393093565_thumb.jpg  post-246-0-72580700-1393093581_thumb.jpg

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More about barrels. I tried it one more time with the white tape.

I think with black this could work out ok.

The 'barrel' is not quite the right shape, but for this try I didn't care too much.

The 2.5 inch width in two places and the .75 inch at the top. I could have added the bottom also, but got lazy. ^_^

When I am going to order more tape I might see if they have .020 inch width in black.

post-246-0-38440400-1393215056_thumb.jpg

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I am getting away from my model, but this is a barrel of fun. B)

For my next project I need a lot of barrels. So here is what I intend to do:

 

I took a piece of old but thick saw blade (0.053 inch thick). Put it in the tool holder of my mini lathe and some shims so that the top edge of the saw blade was above the centerline. I then used a round Dremmel grinding stone to cut the contour of a barrel shape in the front edge of the saw blade.

post-246-0-03426300-1393285714_thumb.jpg

Then I put the blade back in the tool post with a thinner support. That way the front edge is now close to the centerline and there is a slight clearance below this edge. A piece of dowel and there is a barrel in the making.

post-246-0-10448400-1393285728_thumb.jpg  post-246-0-44399000-1393285740_thumb.jpg

 

Earlier I have tried this and included two small grooves for the bands. It worked but I like the result of using the black pin striping tape better. I have ordered some from Model Expo in three widths, including the 0.010, 1/64 and 1/32 inch wide.

The plan is to put this on the dowel before I cut the barrel loose. I might also put a dab of Verathane on it.

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That is very clever Jay. Nice tip.

The idea of using saw blades for this kind of tooling is not mine. There were some other threads about making moulding using razor blades carved with a grinding wheel. Then Lad ? in Australia, used this technique to make spindles for a wheel.

 

All you have to do is remember, but then it becomes difficult to remember where it was that you saw or heard it before.

 

This approach should be good to make many (several) barrels of the same size.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello Jay, haven't seen you around for a while, hope all is well.

Thanks for asking Tex.

Indeed my Conny is in waiting, needs attention, but I have been busy, nevertheless.

 

I had another big birthday and we decided to spend a few days in the sun of Hawaii. Did a lot of hiking, climbing, whale watching, snorkeling and drinking mai-tais around the pool. The admiral is still complaining about her sun-burnt feet (who ever puts suntan lotion on those things down there?)

Then there was the mini-mill I just got from Little Machine Shop. After careful practicing with this new toy, I am getting the hang of things again. It has been many moons since I had a crack at running a milling machine.

I will post more details about my current project with that toy shortly.

 

At least the Conny gets some visual attention since I had to move it to our dining room table to make room for other stuff.

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Hello Jay, good to hear from you, glad you enjoyed your break. I love Hawaii, been there 23 times, almost moved to Maui in a past life. Happy Birthday also. Glad your new toy came in. I just finished making myself a poor boy's mill. I found a decent Microlux Drill Press on ebay, and then added a Proxxon Slotted Drill Press base and cross slide to it, along with a Drill Chuck and some mill bits. I should be able to make what I need also. Please keep us updated with pictures and how-to's as you work with your mill. I know it sure helps me see how you make parts and pieces as you continue your build. Thanks again, see you in the shipyard soon.

John

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