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10th-11th century Byzantine dromon by Louie da fly - FINISHED - 1:50


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1 hour ago, Cathead said:

I've got a Viking ship, it may end up at the bottom of my pond.

I didn't know Vikings had submarines! :wacko:

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I'm still waiting for the lower tier of rowers ;)  (Ducks for cover to avoid the dynamite)

 

That has turned into a very interesting and well executed model Steven, so I am guessing that  that if you are going with the same sort of theme - your new build will have crew to carve, be quite colourful and very rarely modelled?  Now what fits into that theme........

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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Gee! I've barely finished after five years of work and you guys want me to rush into a new model! Gimme a break!:P

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On 10/20/2020 at 9:51 PM, Louie da fly said:

Gee! I've barely finished after five years of work and you guys want me to rush into a new model! Gimme a break!:P

 

No rush... take the weekend off.Pirate2.gif.221c0f9dacb2acb353b8116f604f4fd8.gif

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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OK we'll be generous, have a make-n-mend also, and as we're in a good mood, you can also have an extra tot :)

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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Absolutely gorgeous Steven.  It’s not just one aspect that sets it apart, but your carvings, painting and work you put into researching the actual design. Bravo, good sir, bravo.

“The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever.”
― Jacques Yves Cousteau

 

Work in Progress: US Brig Syren

Completed Works: Thermopylae

 

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Thanks everybody.

 

The last thing I'll be doing is to make a case - I'm off to buy perspex today.

 

A final comment - If I were to build the model again there are quite a few things I'd change. For a start I'd make it about 2 metres longer (full scale) - the poop deck needed to be considerably bigger than I'd made it in my drawings if it was to take the awning and the steersmen, and I had to sacrifice an oarbench on each side to fit it in. I'd also start the curve of the "tail" further forward so it was higher - the poop deck had to be lowered so it didn't overlap the sides of the ship.

 

And I would have made the forecastle higher - according to the sources much of the Greek Fire apparatus should have been underneath the foredeck, not on top. The pump would still have to be on the deck, but the oil tank and brazier should have been below. At the time I was worried that the parapet would get in the way of the lateen yard, but I believe I could have had a higher parapet and still not had a problem.

 

I'd also have been a lot more careful about the placement of the benches - they weren't spaced as equally as they should have been. I do know the benches on the Yenikapi galleys weren't exactly spaced, but the differences were pretty minor. As it was, the spacing between the tholes and the benches was different for every oarsman - another reason I couldn't mass-produce them.

 

And I'd have a double-sheaved calcet (integral block) at the top of each mast, not single, as I've since found large numbers of near-contemporary calcets - all of them double sheaved.

 

However, having said that, I'm very pleased with the model as it turned out. Certainly it could have been improved, but I think it's pretty darned good.

Edited by Louie da fly
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Steven, you're being too hard on yourself.   

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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@Louie da fly Steven, it a master piece! Congrats. She is a beauty and an excellent model, am going to download a few pictures for my archives and I shall also send them to Prof. Maritime archeolol. Demesticha of the Cyprus Univ.  She is teaching byz. sea archeol.

 

Great work sir!

 

Christos

Edited by MESSIS
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Congratulations!  Beautifully done!

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
 

On the building slip: 1:72 French Ironclad Magenta (original shipyard plans)

 

On hold: 1:98 Mantua HMS Victory (kit bash), 1:96 Shipyard HMS Mercury

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

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I'm working on making the case for the dromon. A plywood body,

 

20201106_131755.thumb.jpg.6312463d0a329211d27da072ecbbb864.jpg

 

with the "glass" made of [Edit] polycarbonate acrylic [/Edit].

 

Front view

 

20201106_132319.thumb.jpg.baec413b316e015808cb6d0c7d9a8148.jpg

 

Back view (from "inside")

 

20201106_132419.thumb.jpg.5b06c3b408b0eb5d802800472116bfe1.jpg

 

The [Edit] polycarbonate acrylic [/Edit] is a separate structure which will be screwed to the body once the model is inside.

 

 

20201106_132202.thumb.jpg.cb59f2f62b3800dd9cf88ccab7b65bc4.jpg

 

I used "metal" screws because of their fine threads. Because the [Edit] polycarbonate acrylic [/Edit] is so fragile I had to be very careful about making the holes - first I drilled small pilot holes through both body and [Edit] polycarbonate acrylic [/Edit] - then larger ones - almost as wide as the outside of the screw threads. I rubbed each screw against a bar of soap (to provide lubrication), and slowly and carefully turned the screw, which acted as a die-cutter, making a female thread in the hole in the [Edit] polycarbonate acrylic [/Edit].

 

The guy who supplied and cut the [Edit] polycarbonate  acrylic [/Edit] to size showed me how to do the gluing between the pieces  - didn't reckon my inexperience, so there are a few places where the glue has interfered with the pure clarity of the surface. But not too bad for a first time.

 

I'll be staining the plywood so it doesn't just look like cheap pine. And I have some ideas for the background panel. But don't expect anything to happen for a while. I have other things that have to be done first.

Edited by Louie da fly
Discovered that what I thought was polycarbonate was really acrylic. Apparently both are available clear, but polycarbonate is used where a stronger material is needed - which isn't in a display case.
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Museum quality model. The base you have chosen using the marble, adds to the actual historic time period is really a sharp idea. Love the color scheme also with all the individual men and shields blending in with the ship. Outstanding work, next years calendar show image for sure!

 

:imNotWorthy:

 

Congratulations!

 

:champagne-popping-smiley-emotic

 

 

 

 

 

 

Current build project: 

CSS Alabama 1/96

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/20148-css-alabama-by-jonathan11-revell-196-scale-kit-bash-90-historical-accuracy/

Finished build projects 2018:

H.L Hunley 1/24

CSS Arkansas 1/96

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Christos,

 

The [Edit] polycarbonate  acrylic [/Edit] was 4.5mm thick (any thinner and the joints don't join), and the glue was supplied by the people I bought the [Edit] polycarbonate  acrylic [/Edit] from, so I don't know what it was. If you're looking to make a case the same way, the people who sell you the [Edit] polycarbonate  acrylic [/Edit] might be able to provide glue, or at least tell you what to get and where to get it.

Edited by Louie da fly
Discovered that what I thought was polycarbonate was really acrylic. Apparently both are available clear, but polycarbonate is used where a stronger material is needed - which isn't in a display case.
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Thank you Steven. I had untill today made my display cases out of glass, its costly and the seller joins the glass by a sort of laser welding maschine. The problem is, its heavy to carry home from the shop and also fagile, I broke that of Hermione's the other day. 

 

I dont know where I can find polycarbonate to buy here in Limassol, may be Amazon does sell.

 

Anyway thank you very much for your help Steven.

 

Christos

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Just be aware that [Edit] polycarbonate  acrylic [/Edit]has disadvantages as well - the main one is that it scratches easily, and if you get glue on the surface where it's not supposed to be, the surface goes "cloudy".

 

But if you're careful enough (not like me!) this won't happen - but I found the glue sometimes spurts unexpectedly out of the nozzle of the tube of glue as you squeeze it. So take care!

Edited by Louie da fly
Discovered that what I thought was polycarbonate was really acrylic. Apparently both are available clear, but polycarbonate is used where a stronger material is needed - which isn't in a display case.
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From the research to the build, your model is museum quality to me. I plan to build a case within the next few months so I’ll be using your log as a guide! Thanks for the history lesson!

 

Bradley

Current Builds:

Flying Fish - Model Shipways - 1:96

 

Future Builds:

Young America 1853 - Scratch Build - 1:72

 

Completed Builds:

HMS Racehorse - Mantua - 1:47 (No pictures unfortunately)

Providence Whale Boat - Artesania Latina - 1:25 (Also no pictures)

Lowell Grand Banks Dory - Model Shipways - 1:24

 

Shelved Builds:

Pride of Baltimore 2 - Model Shipways - 1:64 (Also no pictures)

 

 

 

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Bradley,

 

I've found [Edit] polycarbonate  acrylic [/Edit] very good. Nice and light, and rigid so long as you do your gluing properly. But be cautious with the gluing - I got spots of glue on the [Edit] polycarbonate  acrylic [/Edit] surface when I squeezed the air out of the (really thin!) nozzle as instructed, and drops of glue flew into the air and landed just where I didn't want them to. And once they're on the surface there's nothing you can do about it - trying to wipe the glue spots off just smears them and makes it worse. And if you squeeze too hard when applying the glue down the length of the joint it spreads out onto the surface instead of just staying within the join. I think it's mostly just a matter of practice, but forewarned is forearmed.

 

You run the glue along the inside of the join and surface tension "pulls" it into the space between the two surfaces. It's really quite cool to watch. It doesn't take long to dry solid, either. I found one joint came apart a bit and had to be re-done. But once everything's successfully glued together it's light, strong and self supporting. Pretty cool!

 

Making the first join is the hardest because you have to somehow hold everything together in exactly the right configuration while you're gluing. Once the first two panels are joined it becomes easier because they support the following panels.

 

 

Edited by Louie da fly
Discovered that what I thought was polycarbonate was really acrylic. Apparently both are available clear, but polycarbonate is used where a stronger material is needed - which isn't in a display case.
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Steven, The proper adhesive for polycarbonate is, I believe, methylene chhloride. This a bit toxic and you have to hold the sheets in jigs and run the liquid along the seam with a needle and syringe. This will actually fuse the sheets together. Superglue will produce clouding at the join. I elected to put he polycarbonate in slotted wooden frames which means they can be replaced if scratched. This is the third large case I have done this way ( see my round ship build, last page). Also see this link:

https://www.cutplasticsheeting.co.uk/blog/uncategorized/how-to-glue-polycarbonate/

Current build: 

 Le Gros Ventre 1:48 POF   http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/564-le-gros-ventre-by-woodrat-scale-1-48-pof-1767-french-exploration-vessel/

 

Past builds:

Mycenaean War Galley by Woodrat - 1:48 - Shell first Plank on Frame:https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33384-mycenaean-war-galley-by-woodrat-148-shell-first-plank-on-frame

Venetian round ship 14th century by Woodrat fully framed - 1:40 scalCompleted

https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/17991-venetian-round-ship-14th-century-by-woodrat-fully-framed-140-scale

Venetian Carrack or Cocha 1/64 by woodrat   https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4915-venetian-carrack-or-cocha-164-by-woodrat        completed

United States Frigate Essex 1:64 POF   http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4496-usf-essex-by-woodrat-scale-1-64-fully-framed-from-takakjian-plans/ - completed 

Yenikapi12 by Woodrat - 1/16 scale - a small Byzantine merchant vessel of the 9th century

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23815-yenikapi12-by-woodrat-116-scale-a-small-byzantine-merchant-vessel-of-the-9th-century-finished/

The Incredible Hulc by Woodrat - an experimental reconstruction of a mediaeval transport

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25641-the-elusive-hulc-by-woodrat-finished-a-speculative-reconstruction-of-a-mediaeval-merchantman-132-plank-on-frame/

 

 

 

Location: Perth, Western Australia

 

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Superglue won't hold Steven. You can take it apart again without to much force. Dick is right, you need a glue which fuses the polycarbonate. Not certain if MEK works, but there are a few glues which are specially used for this material

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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There is a glue called Craftics Thickened Cement #33 that I have used for gluing small pieces of polycarbonate to styrene on my plastic model, and since it is not too thin, I think maybe one could mask the edges of the polycarbonate being joined to protect the surfaces from overflow and “spider web” strings from extruding glue, without the glue creeping under the tape.  The surfaces would probably need to be masked on the inside and the outside of the seams.  Here is a link:

 

https://www.craftics.net/ShowItems.aspx?Category=80&ParentCategory=3

 

Craftics makes thin glues too that can be used on polycarbonate.  I do not know if any of these are available outside of the United States, however.

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The glue I used was supplied by the people I bought the [Edit] polycarbonate  acrylic [/Edit] from, so presumably it's the right glue for the job. It's not superglue.

Edited by Louie da fly
Discovered that what I thought was polycarbonate was really acrylic. Apparently both are available clear, but polycarbonate is used where a stronger material is needed - which isn't in a display case.
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