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JesseLee

Syren by JesseLee - Model Shipways - scale: 1:64

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Thanks for the comments and likes everyone!

 

Did the lugs and got them on the carronades. Painted them with Testors gunmetal enamel. Having trouble with them not looking as smooth as I would like after painting. Some have a slight lumpy look. We have very humid summers here and the paint isn't drying very well. Wondering if the paint is too thick and maybe thinning it down will work better. Some of the rings are breaking off and I'm having to re-do them.

 

Getting a little frustrated because I feel like I'm spinning my wheels in the mud and getting nowhere. I feel like I've been on these forever. Seems I can't get these carronades done so I can get to putting them on the sleds and rigging them.

 

Jesse

 

 

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Jesse - don't get discouraged. It's a marvel what you have done to build these scratch. If it's any consolation, carronades are just a pain to build, even using the CC aftermarket kits was a very time consuming, expletive laden experience so hang in there. On the flush decked ships they are so key to the overall look that you'll be glad you took your time.

Edited by Beef Wellington

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Hey JesseLee, I'll echo Jason's advice, don't get discouraged now and that after you have done such an outstanding job in hand-making those carronades.  If the final paint job looks a little rough try to twirl them in some fine sandpaper, like 360 grit or so.  Then put another coat or two of thinned enamel.

Actually, a little roughness to the finish may simulate cast iron and once on the ship it should look just fine.

On the photo they look quite nice, great job so far.

 

Cheers, 

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Jesse, I think they look pretty darn good. The paint is a bit rough. Once you come up with a good way to smooth them out you will find that thinner paint will go on much better. Don't get frustrated. You have a knack for working things out.

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Hi Jesse

 

AI is correct 2-3 coats of thin paint is better than one thick one.

 

But you could have used a sanding sealer, then a rub with some fine wire wool and repeat that twice then apply your paint.

 

Denis.

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Hi Jesse

 

I said use fine wire wool to rub them down, I said this because wire wool will mold its self round the contour of the cannon.

Sand paper will not.

 

Hope this helps you.

 

Denis.

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JesseLee,

 

You'd better thin the enamel. When it's humid it will dry quicker, but you need to add some more layers.

 

The fibres coming up, that's what I wrote about some time ago: First layer should be very thinned, than you sand with a fine grid paper, or as Denis wrote wire wool, although, that can leave metal particles, and in humid surroundings: rust. After that more layers of paint. I like Piet's remark about the cast iron look though.

 

Depending on brush or airbrush you thin it down as required. The advantage of an airbrush is the drying. If you spray well, you can almost immediately spray again. It should be dry to the touch. After that the paint needs time to cure/harden and that will take time. Although, with the modern acrylic paints that takes considerable less time.

 

Hope you're feeling better again

 

Cheers

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Hi Jesse,

first of all I also want to emphasize that you did and excellent job on those carronades. Handcrafting these little guys is not easy at all, and yours look very nice! Where the painting is concerned I can only agree with what was already said here by our fellow modelers - the trick is to have several coats with VERY THIN paint. And yes, it can get frustrating at times as building these carronades takes quite a while. I think it took me close to a year from start to finish until I had my carronades done - and I have not even rigged them yet. However, on the good side - on the Syren you only have to do 16 + 2 guns . . . now just think of a ship of the line  :)

 

Thomas

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Hi Jessie,

You cannons look good. I think that the suggestions about sanding or using steel wool should help greatly.  Your cannons are carved nicely and have a great appearance.  Much nicer that the ones supplied.  It is especially nice to see them to scale and happily they still work with the sled supplied. 

 

I am working on turning my own out of boxwood.  I tried a few different ways to paint but was not happy with any of them. At my skill level they looked painted.  So, to try and get a smoother look that kept the detail, I decided to try wood dye.  As I experiment I liked the way it is turning out.  If I look really closely I can see it is wood not brass. 

 

Actually, after a coat of poly it is beginning to look better.  Just for a comparison, I may go back and try painting using the suggestions listed here.  I am experimenting on cannon rejects. The good news is that I have lot to experiment on.  The bad news is that... I have a lot to experiment on :-) 

 

I will be posting the pictures on my build log. Your work has been great to watch and since I am only a bit behind it is very helpful.  

 

Thanks,

Richard

Edited by rtropp

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Thanks as always for all the input & support!

 

The fine steel wool is working pretty good. I'm still having one problem with the paint. Even though I'm using thinned enamel (Testors), When I handle them it still gets grungy & picks up super fine dust & stuff & turns really dull looking somewhat losing the metal appearance. Were cannons dull looking? Would a clear coat make them look too shiny?

 

I also just found another potential problem. The instructions say the barrels should be about center or very near center of the gun ports. Test fitting the carronades & sleds mine look like the sit too high. It seems to show more by eye that the picture shows. I have experimented with thinning down one sled & lowering the plug. This lowers it some but it is still not centered. Is this acceptable? How would you raise the gun ports at this point without almost complete deconstruction of the sides? Kinda freaking out here.

 

Jesse

 

 

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JesseLee,

 

Sinc your gunports aren't square you could increase the hight by 1 - 2 mm ... they would b touching the rail. Another additional option is to take some weight from the upper and lower parts of the slides aswell, make them thinner

 

concerning your other question. Something between mat and brilliant (we call it satin) the gloss would take it to far

 

Cheers mate

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Jesse,

I had the same problem with the guns being too high.  I removed most of the lower lug, which you can't really see anyway, and added a pin to secure the cannon to the sled.  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8410-us-brig-syren-by-sald-–-model-shipways/?p=344563 

 

My cannons still ended up a little high in the ports.  I wouldn't mess around with the ports at this stage of the build. (just my opinion)

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Hello Jesse,

As soon as you go with slightly "more substantial" barrels than provided in the kit you run into this problem. My solution to this was exactly what Jparsley suggested: not to worry about it  :). Your carronades look good the way they are. 

 

Thomas

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Jesse,

 

Looking back at some of your previous entries I found this pic - I thought it was weird that the plans called for a larger cannonade than the kit provided, but when the proper size was installed the positioning was off.  I read that you experimented with the thickness of the sled; it's hard to tell scale in a photograph... are your sleds really 1/16th of an inch thick as described in the plans in the photo?  That seems really thin... 

 

I think it may be an academic discussion.... I agree with everyone else's comments. It all looks great as is!

 

Stubby

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Jesse,  I'm a new member also building the Syren.  Before starting I studied many logs including yours.  I'd like you to know I find your close up pictures among the most useful for answering questions.  Thanks for sharing. 

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Hi Jesse,

I built a home made mini lathe using a electric hand drill. I am having trouble getting decent cuts with the miniature cutting tools that I have. Did you make some  custom cutters to get those fine lines? If so, care to share?

 

 

Regards

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Thanks everyone for all the input, encouragement & advice.

 

By the time everyone began telling me to leave them like they are I had already started thinning down about 5 of the sleds so I'm continuing with that. Picture updates will be coming soon.

 

Michael,  I had a lot of trouble with that too. I don't know if it is my cutting tools or the wood. I got much better results from the mini files. They will give you the finest edges & lines. I used a flat square & a square, & a triangle file to get the shapes I needed. I also used a hobby razor edge to cut the thin line between the 2 raised lips. Hope that helps.

 

Jesse

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to leave 'em or make the adjustments........you can see that there was no real answer.......only the one that you decided on  ;)   personally,  I would have left them too......especially after seeing that picture of the instruction diagram.    your on the right track Jesse.........wonderful progress!  :)

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JesseLee,

 

Remember: it's your build, and we can only say what we would do, or what possibilities are open to you ... you are the docyard super/master shipwright in here ;)

Edited by cog

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I have been slowly working on it while I've been sick. Decided to thin the sleds. Had to pop the metal piece off thinned both wooden components and thinned the wheels down a lot too.

 

While all this was being worked on I looked over my ship & saw a lot of battle damage. Replaced a broken bumpkin, glued down a lot of copper plate corners, and glued some gun port lids back on.

 

I also filed the gun port openings slightly, not much but every little bit will help with lowering the carronades. This also gave me a chance to even them up better than I had them before.

 

 

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Very good, Jesse. It looks good to. As you know, slow is good, less chance on mistakes. Glad you are moving on, eventhough you still don't feel good. Hope you feel better soon, you're in my thoughts.

 

Cheers

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Thanks for the comments, encouragement & the "Likes".

 

I added a small lip or foot to the brackets. This was very small detail & a lot of extra time but I thought they looked a little better this way. Kept losing the darned little things so I strung them all on a wire loop - lost none after that. Pinned them through the lugs with wire & managed to keep them all movable somehow. (sorry some of the pictures didn't come out focused very well)

 

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