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JesseLee

Syren by JesseLee - Model Shipways - scale: 1:64

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Hello Jesse, Your modeling is nice to follow,you put thoughts,patience together ending with a fine result, with the mountains you often climb you always make it to the top,a joy to watch.Edwin.

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Good questions on the planking JesseLee.  That stern to counter area is tricky, to say the least but it looks like you got it under control now.  Looking really good.

 

Cheers,

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Now starts the planking. Cutting & filing out around the gun & sweep ports. Glued on some of the first few planks. Here is where you find out if you got the spacing on both sides right on the previous steps. Looking at the sliver of planking under the gun port on each side looks like I am very slightly off by a millimeter or less. Think I can live with that!

 

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Hi Jesse thanks for the like, I'm looking forward to starting, been following your blog a little bit. I will take a lot more notice of yours and others

from now on. It is such a good looking ship, has a bit of everything in it.

Thanks Chris Hooroo

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Haven't posted much- have been plugging away at the upper planking around the gun ports. This has been going slow for me. I can only work on it so long & my pain sets In & I have to stop. Anyway I noticed that there was too much of a dip in the planking curve on one side. The planking wasn't lining up at the same height on both sides. A little alcohol & a thin blade got this corrected. Re-glued it & continued on.

 

Oh, almost forgot to show the method of caulking I ended up using. I tried to do the pencil but I kept indenting the edges of the planks because I couldn't seem to maintain an even pressure as I marked the edges. I also smudged it all over the place. I experimented with a few things & settled on this. I use a makeup sponge applicator thingy my wife dropped on the floor & paint the edge with some black paint. I smear this with my thumb to keep it thin. This seems to work well for me.

 

Every day as I work on the ship one of our dogs, Lucy, faithfully lays at my feet as long as I work there.

 

 

 

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Hey Jesse, I like the makeup kit approach to caulking. I went to an art store and bought an artists graphite pencil. the lead is really soft and I didn't have indent problems near what you can have with regular #2 or such. The smudge from the light graphite, especially when sanding, gave the wood a little bit of a weathered look. Anyways you've seen what I did, that was my secret. I also found that creating tree nails was pretty easy with a hard lead pencil - because they do indent well. Trick was to always keep sharp.

 

Looks awesome.

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Slow progress right now. As I neared completing the upper planking I had another area  where the planks didn't line up with the top & bottom of the gun ports the same on both sides so I got out the alcohol & unglued the planks again to rework it so they lined up the same on both port & starboard sides.  (pics to come later). As I am working on that I have been studying ahead & going over others Syren builds. I noticed the plans instruct to make simulated sheaves in the hull sides. I was thinking of making them go through like the real ones and realized that I don't know how to rig this. In the simulated version I would be gluing the end of a line into a false hole. If I were to have a real sheave where does the end of the line go to? Does it pass through the hull to the deck side to a cleat & tie off? Does it end in a coil? Any info that could be provided will help me decide which way I want to do this. If I do real sheave I think I should go on and build them in now before I complete the planking.

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I think a simulated sheave would just be 2 holes with a groove etched between them. A real sheave would have a pulley instead of a groove. Both should operate the same way with a line feeding through the hole and through the bulwarks to a pin or cleat, with the remainder coiled. Sheet-lines for instance, would be tied off after going through the sheave.

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Hiya Jesse:

 

Now that you found me, I found you!  Just finished a long post with my bulwark planking struggles, maybe you'll find something useful.  After your comments and work on the counter, I'm going to take another look at that on mine

 

Good Luck!

 

Robert

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Had to pull up some planking where it didn't line up with the gun ports the same on each side.  When I got to the stern I found the same problem. The pencil marks on each side shows I had it half a plank off. Pulled this up & got it right. Added the counter planking. Cut out the gun port holes in the transom  & glued it into place.

 

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Decided not to have the fake sheaves as the kit instructs. I don't have a lot to work with so I made mine by layering pieces of wood. Glued & shaped them. I didn't have an easy way to make pulleys this small so I just put a toothpick through without the pulley. I figure it's so small once the rope is pulled through you wont see the difference anyway. Cut out the spaces for them in the planks & glued them in place. They still look rough- need sanding down & the openings shaped up more even. Will work on this as the planking is done.

 

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Very ingenious. That small stuff is fun to work with but a bit tough on the eyes! Looking good!

(btw - interesting look with the red paint smeared over the gunports before covered up. Looks like a massacre occurred...)

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Skipped ahead to the tree nailing of the upper hull area that will be stained. Tested many methods on scrap wood. Tried wood filler, glue/sawdust, brass wire, even broom straw. Brass looked too different. The others didn't turn out looking as overall round. My drilling wasn't so perfect. I remembered seeing Dave Bullocks work in person & how good his looked. He uses the tooth pick method. So that's what I went with. They turned out a little bigger around than I had planned but they all looked perfectly round. I have tried multiple times to load my pics today but they will not load in the right order at all so I will try another day.

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I held the tooth picks in my Dremel & sanded them sharp on some sanding sticks- first coarse then fine. Just a dab of glue & stick it in the hole. I snipped them off with fingernail clippers. After sanding them down I am satisfied how they look. I just hope they wont look darker when stained because they show their end grain.

 

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I tested toothpicks for nails in my decking, and when applying clear satin wipe-on poly they got much darker.  You can just make a quick test off the ship to see what they'll look like before investing too much time on the ship itself to make sure you'll be happy with the results.

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Great job on the tree nailing so far, I believe you will be happy with the end result. You are definitely moving right along. Looking forward to future updates.

    

     Happy modeling.

                 Marty G.

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Great progress! I like the clean straight edges of your gun ports.

 

You chose an interesting method for tree nailing. I have never done it with tooth picks. On my first model I used bamboo sticks thinned down to the right (in scale) thickness with a draw plate. It looked fine at the beginning, but as soon as I applied wood stain there was a certain diffusion effect along the edges of the holes and the tree nails and the final result looked a bit larger than intended. Hopefully you won't have this problem  :).

 

Thomas

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Fine detail Jesse! After seeing some of the pics of the Hermione it looks as though treenails can be a bit bigger than I had initially thought. Have you seen pics of what they look like on the outside of a ship?

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