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Cruizer class brig by Timmo - 1:36 scale Radio

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I didn't force the issue, but let it happen naturally after sailing.  There's nothing wrong with your copper looking "new" for a while, it was "new" on the real ship at some point.  Goodness, next you'll be wanting a foot of sea grass hanging from her bottom.  ;)


Anyway, you can still take her for a dip despite not having her rigged as yet - she looks like she's ready for a float and some sexy pics at the beach.

Edited by JerryTodd

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Jib boom, gammoning cleats and martingale completed today. Pics to follow.

I'm quite liking the copper now. It's dulled off nicely and has a fairly random gentle tarnish to it that's looking quite nice. I expect it will develop more as time goes on and it's nice to have a living element to the ship that will change.

I'm thinking I'll apply a bit of very gentle weathering to the rest of the paintwork to get away from the freshly painted vessel look.


Jerry, I've got to round up some more ballast yet but I'd love to have her in the water and doing something by the end of the year. It'll be a mate's swimming pool first.

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The gratings are nearly all cut. These were made with a light timber of unknown type. It might be beech. I'm after a contrast with the surrounding coaming as these will be among the only natural timber finishes aside from the mast and deck.

A billet about 5-6mm thick was cut on the bandsaw and slots cut with the table saw using the micrometer. The slots were 2mm wide and the Byrnes saw is amazingly accurate.

The individual battens were then sliced off and the gratings assembled with a vice pushing them all together title and diluted white glue securing them.

The excess was sanded flush for vice looking gratings.


A test grating with matai timber



A final version under construction.



Finished gratings. One has lost some sections but these are easily replaced with cubes from leftovers.


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Just had a look back at old pics and it's nice to see the copper is mellowing nicely one month in. I'll post a pic in daylight in near future.


In the meantime work on the deck furniture continues.


The gratings have all had coamings added. These are just the sort of thing I could cut and have installed, a side at a time, in a spare half hour before going to work each morning. That seems to be my main building time now with the odd bits in the weekend aimed at prepping to line up a series of these bite-sized chunks that could be knocked each morning before heading off to the salt mines.



The shot garlands have been added on this grating section for the rear access hatch and there's plenty more to come. I'll have to get more 4mm caldercraft shot (32lb carronade rounds) as I've woefully underestimated how many I need. It'll be somewhere around 120 in the garlands.

For the garlands a basic measurement was taken from a sample made by eye to look right. Pilot holes were drilled with a pinvice using a 1.5mm bit and a 3mm bit in the dremel drill press used to finish. Some are a bit off but most are ok so it's not noticeable. I'll get a proper drill press one day.


Here's why we need shot - his majesty's armoury has provided guns.




Rather fellow modeller Tim Bowman and his expertise on CAD software has. Tim is building a 1/24 scale Cruizer from a SC&H kit but has redesigned practically every part and had it 3D printed. Check out his highly impressive build here http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1716548.

Have a look if you want to see what the future of the hobby holds.


Tim was kind enough to rescale his 6lber long guns and 32lber carronades. A carronade on the printing sprue is pictured in the background. It's a result that would have taken me weeks to do by turning a master and casting in resin. I love working in wood and will never give it away but I hope to develop some rudimentary CAD skills to print some of the finer mechanically oriented or repetitive parts of future builds.


The long guns even have crests on them that should pop out after painting and weathering. The carriages were home made on the table saw using the anatomy of the ship Diana as a guide scaled down from 18lb carriages. The carronade is shown mounted with Royal Navy issue Blutak (not) on a sample slide knocked up to check the fit. They will have brass elevation screws from the hardware store and assorted block and tackle and ironwork rigged eventually.




The rudder has been prepped for mounting. Bolt Holes have been drilled in gudgeons and pintles ready for blackening and a tiller made.

This is mounted in a brass sleeve through the rudder head to prevent wear. The tiller is made of a piece of timber with a slot cut in it and brass rod epoxied in and the slot timbered over and sanded to shape. The seams are on the bottom so they won't be seen.

A hole drilled vertically through the rudder head into the tiller's brass rod allows a secure fixing with a pin made from an old railing stanchion. It's very strong and should stand up to the lateral pull of the tiller cable. The blue you see is the clear acrylic rudder extension covered in tape to prevent damage. It should be invisible in the water.




Next up it's the capstan and also the main entry hatch housing on the grating section pictured above and a chimney for the ship's stove. Those later two will be removeable and cover the nut and threaded rod poking up through the hull to secure the ballast keel.


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A bit of progress.

The capstan drum was turned on the proxxon lathe with the square holes cut with a square and file.


The axle was a simple square section filed and planed to shape with the flanges cut on the jigsaw.



The fancy finishing touch is a little bespoke harrier hawk, to personalise the vessel, carved for the top of the capstan drum.

This was sketched up using a bird photograph from google as a reference and draw onto a piece of Castello boxwood.

It's the first time I've used a piece of this and I was very impressed with its density and ability to hold fine detail.

The shape was cut with he jigsaw and and the rest carved with a no11 blade and files.

The piece was sanded thin from the bottom.





The final result



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Thanks Mark, it was a bit of a test to see if carving decorations on future projects would be feasible. This is only two dimensions but an encouraging result.

The base circle made of ply is a little smaller than it should be due to measuring only once rather than twice before cutting but it looks ok so not worth changing.

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In other developments.... the steering gear has been completed with a wheel from RB models mounted on a bespoke frame.

Brass tubes protrude through the deck under the wheel to deliver the cable from the servo.

These are topped with wooden blocks cut to hide the tube. A fake cable will run around the wheel drum and down to the fake blocks. The live line will run from the tube/ block assembly and out through two working blocks to the tiller. I wanted I keep the exit tubes as near the centreline as possible to avoid water across the deck getting into the hull.

There was a bit of test fitting to get it so the rear most carronade wasn't fouled.

The proper arrangement would have another block on the tiller for extra purchase but this seems to work best without the added complexity.


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The 3D printed long guns are painted and finished minus the rigging blocks. These are quite cool. Thanks to a Tim Bowman for the files. The crest pops out nicely with a light rub of graphite. The retaining chaining is from RB models.



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The hawse bits were made with bass tube running vertically through the uprights. . These exit facing forward and will allow the lines for the foresail and jib the travel from servo to sail. You can see the holes here

The aft face of the bits has a single timber half round facing as per Petejus, his was to stope hawse chaffing. The brass chimney is painted and sits loosely to cover the ballast rod and nut when installed.




Also most of the rest of the deck furniture is installed minus the little raised windlass (proper name escapes me) aft of the main mast and the pumps. Also pinrails and belaying pins added. Chainplates are next.


His majesty's brig Harrier as she stands...



Edited by Timmo

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Thanks for the kind words all.

Progress continues with the yards with four completed while I await more brass rod to finish the chainplates. Pics will come soonish. Once the yards are sorted I'll arrange the passage of the yard braces from the servo positions up through the deck and to the yards. This is one of the most important bits of making it all 'go'. I'll be stealing ideas from luminaries like Gerry Todd for this.


Once the underdeck blocks and tubes for this are done I can install the masts. This will be a crucial step and mean I can revisit the square sails later on and possibly just get the driver and foresails rigged to get Harrier on the water in a partially rigged fashion. It's coming up 20 months into the build and time we saw some sailing action but the mad dash to Christmas is here and progress may slow.


Jason, if you ever want to borrow the Irene book, just shout.

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The chainplates have all been completed with about half installed. These were made as one piece of brass rod bent to shape on a simple jig (nails in a board), silver soldered and held in place with a small brass plate pinned into the hull side. It's not the multiple chains of the real thing but it's a good compromise between looks and strength.



In somèthing of a milestone the first elements of rigging have been installed with the stand rigging of the bowsprit added.

This is a range of synthetic braid from about 2mm on the forestay collars to 1.6 on the gammoning and 1mm for things like the bobstay and bowsprit shrouds. They range from 25-150kg breaking strain. The hemp lines are .5mm line dyed with some left over outdoor decking stain. Once installed it's all very solid with the load spread across multiple lines.

It makes you realise what an exercise in physics a sailing vessel is.


The forestay collars were cut from sheet acrylic left over from the clear rudder extension. Timber at that scale would not be strong enough.




The martingale stay is added with an adjustable plate to change the tension on it. It's like a tent guy rope. The jib boom is removeable for transport so the stays attached can be slipped off and tightened again once reattached.



One set of studdingsail irons have been made from brass for the main yard. These will serve no functional purpose but it's the sort of little detail that'll make the rigging look busy and real.


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Happy new year all.

Some of the cool bits that'll make this thing go have been either completed or temporarily knocked up in the last month or so.


First among these is the steering rig, which was built up as per the earlier test. The servo drum was wound tight enough and is close enough to the fairlead up to the deck that it gets around the issue of tension.

This all works quite well and gives about 45 degrees of rudder each direction.

This was also the first opportunity to wire up the battery, receiver and use the transmitter. Lots of fun although my wiring needs some work. I've also filled my ballast tube with about 9kg of lead which works well in the bath but is awaiting testing in a friend's pool. The threaded rod mounts have been left long to allow it to be adjusted to allow it to sit either flush to the keel or hang below to increase stability if needed. This will be sorted once the amount of stiffness needed is worked out with all sails on.




The other interesting bit has been rigging up a temporary spanker. This is pretty much a test of materials for the sail (not the final version) and to see how it all behaves with the rigging. It sprang out of just wanting to see some flags rigged.

The servo is a simple arm arrangement with (temp arm) and works well. I wanted to use a double block arrangement on the boom as per the original but after some experimentation realised this also doubles the pull of the sheet needed for the same distance of travel. This is possible with a winch servo but results in issues of keeping tension on the line to stop tangles on the drum.

Simple seems best, hence the arm and a single sheet with a dummy block for looks.




I've got a plan to jury rig the foresails and servo and try a small, controlled maiden voyage so have installed some temp stays on the foremast in preparation for the this. These follow the same tent guy rope style of the martingale stay to allow for adjustment. It works so well I'll likely keep it but tidy it up to make the little slides less noticeable. This can easily be taken off as before the masts can be permanently with shrouds etc as I've still got to make underdeck blocks to guide the yard braces up from the servos. In the pic below you can see the lines for the foresail sheets emerging from the fairleads in the forward bits.




I've added a little jack staff on the bowsprit with a union flag. I'm not sure it is accurate so comments welcome.


A little history of the real Harrier's adventures and reason for the blue ensign to come in a future post.post-271-0-61674800-1484120452_thumb.jpg

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Looking amazing Wayne.  The Jackstaff looks great, one thing BE pointed out in his log is the fact that the bowsprit cap would have been asymmetrical to allow additional space on the stb side to mount the jack staff.  Looks like you made it work perfectly.  Another tid-bit, the union jack is only flown on ships in harbor or at anchor, not sure your plans there.  I think the obvious explanation is that it would be rather impractical with rigging and sails billowing...

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So it IS a boat you've been building!  ;)

Some folks put a cover over the drum of the winch servo.  It has to fit close to keep the line from getting between the flange and the cover, but the idea is to trap the coils of the sheet on the drum when there isn't tension.  While to my eye it's looks sketchy; like if you pay out the sheet in no air, and the coils get inside each other on the drum; but the folks that use this seem happy with it; like John Dowd on his Bluenose and J-class Endeavor and Antony Bell on his Jolie Brise.


Here's the works in Dowd's J-Class, note the main sheet winch on the left;



My sail arm servo runs the "3-arm-sheeter" for the heads'ls, and it also sheets the driver/spanker (there used to be a difference) on the servo's arm directly.  It sheets out the spanker with the servo centered, and sheets in when moved left OR right.  With a servo-stretcher giving it 180° of travel, that gets me plenty of sheet.  The spanker sheet anchors in the waterway, runs through a block on the boom, then to a fairlead in the opposite waterway, and on to the servo - so it is "doubled."


My issue with the whole thing is the servo moves too fast.  I'm sure there's some expensive item available that will deal with that, but I don't have one.


Speaking of tension on drums, you may consider mounting your brace winches on their sides so the drum is vertical.  Slack is much less of an issue this way, and it may help you out with space limitations and access.


This pic shows two winch servos with a couple of Bizarroland drums to illustrate the idea, I hope.  The braces would run athwartship from the drums, but you can turn this anyway you like I'd think.



This idea is based on the old Rattlesnake that inspired me in the first place.  L'Heureaux used a motor and slipping belts that I doubt gave him very good fine control, but that's not an issue with winch servos.  The braces don't develop so much slack for this to be a problem if the flanges are deep enough, the spanker sheet can develop much more slack and could be a problem, even with the winch on it's side..



Edited by JerryTodd

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Thanks Jerry, the side mounted servo is something I hadn't considered.

I understand the concept of a drum enclosure to trap slack line but I'm with you in that it feels like there's too much reliance on what would have to be close tolerances for it to work consistently.

Plenty of trial and error ahead.


Jason. You are right about the jackstaff hindering the headsails. It'll have to go for sailing days and slips out easily enough.

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Harrier was laid up in ordinary for a while due to other projects like building an outdoor fireplace over summer and general issues like having a life and job. 


But there has been some decent progress. I haven't many pics through this stage of the build as it's been mainly incremental. 



IMG_1516.thumb.JPG.919e74017bb8d716433edd1ac43e6133.JPGHere's the highlights:

-The yards have all been completed, including a yet to be mounted spitsail yard. topgallant yards are done but just absent for the pic. 


-the standing rigging is largely complete with just ratlines to be tied (joy). This follows Petrejus fairly closely and includes shrouds with catharpins, stays and backstays, martingale stay etc.

The shrouds are fixed as due to limited lateral movement the only issue there is the cord stretching. The deadeye lanyards can always be tightened if this happens.

The main and forestay are likewise fixed as the lower masts won't really move but the top stays and up are rigged with adjustable length plates (think tent guy ropes) so tension can be adjusted. 

This is necessary as the top and and topgallant masts can drop by about 6-7 inches combined for transport. Likewise the jib boom can come inboard by its own length.

I'm impressed with how rigid the masts are both fore and aft and laterally.

- working rigging blocks for the top and topgallant masts have been made to allow working braces run from servos.

- Sails have been made, just the main course to be done once I decide how much wire bracing to include (more on this later).

-servos are all installed (pics to come) and all yards have been temporarily rigged to check functionality. Fore and mainmast yards rotate independently on separate servos with about 55 degrees of rotation to each side.  ( video to come which will explain the concept better.)


More pics:

Foretopmast stays etc at the front end. The hearts are made from wood. The bowsprit stays with dead eyes are fixed while the fore topmast stays, to the right in the pic, running through the bees abaft down through the bowsprit cap are adjustable due to the wooden blocks acting as length plates to disguise their real function. I want to avoid anything that looks less than period correct near the hull. Higher in the rigging is not so obvious.



Forestays. The white line visible are the temporary sheets for the forestays. They travel from the servo through a brass tube in each side embedded in the forward bitts. The black line running from the deck straight up the mast is the temporary main brace rigging.



Fore chains and shrouds, with backstay dead eyes at left. If the line ever stretches and slackens it's easy enough to just cut the lanyards off and rerig.IMG_1519.thumb.JPG.f626f430b5bfcbb4a56026c0773d9886.JPG

Topmast shrouds and stays. The upper masts have a brass pin through them which can be removed to drop them a bit. The mast caps are also not fixed to allow this to go a bit easier. Close tolerances and the rigging tension keep them very firmly in place. 



Maintop and yard etc. The main and top yards on each mast are on a rotating pin set forward to allow a greater arc of rotation.

Also visible here are the working blocks to take the brace sheets to the yards. These were made from timber with brass sheaves from RB Models. I've used their blocks elsewhere on the model where they don't have major stress on them but they don't seem to make the large single blocks anymore and I'm a bit more comfortable with these made from NZ Matai timber which is fairly hard. 


IMG_1521.thumb.JPG.ce6107194fc6fdfa575a06e418adcd6e.JPGRunning braces from this position isn't accurate but borrows from concept used by the likes of RC square rig kit manufacturer SC&H.

Attribution time- this design is based on looking at their fine products (I wanted a smaller scale and couldn't afford theirs with shipping to the ends of the Earth) and many fine builders and modifiers of their work including Dan Lewandowski and others, plus the work of Jerry Todd, who you've seen commenting here.

Also you can see the mouses/mice (?) on the main and main spring stay.


Main topgallant top. Same concept as before but smaller.


The driver sail is a temporary job. The other has been made but not fitted. It's hard to find a backdrop given the size of the vessel.


Next steps are bending the sails and installing running rigging. This is waiting on the rigging. I've been unable to find the right sizes in a white or otherwise braid. I've got .5mm and 1.1m in white which can be dyed ok but while the smaller is ok for the deadeye lanyards etc neither size is right for braces or other similar functional rigging.

RC square rigger Dan mentioned above has been kind enough to offer to make me some rigging line on his rope walk. A true gentleman who not only doesn't worry about me using his ideas but makes the rope for me to do it with.


While I wait for the rope I'll tidy up the servo wiring and install fuses (pretty clueless with electrics), and test the ballast keel weight and depth below keel in a mate's pool.


There are still carronade slides to be made and guns installed and the spritsail yard but these are cosmetic and I'll concentrate on the bits that'll get Harrier in the water soonest before moving on to the pretty bits.


I'll post a vid of the yards in action soon. The optimist in me wants me wants her on the water in the next couple of months The weather should be better then.


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