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Stuntflyer

HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale

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The sling is now completed. It is made from Chuck's .035 Dark Brown rope and served its entire length with 50wt thread. Adding the thimble and seizing it was straight forward. The rope length was measured so the bottom of the hook falls about 3/16" below the gaff. A small eye was seized to one end of the rope, while being careful to maintain the proper rope length. This was all done off the ship. After feeding the sling around the mast, the remaining end was inserted through the eye and the last intertwined eye was made when the sling was in position. Seizing the last eye proved to be quite tricky. The sling is short, so holding onto it while seizing the eye proved to be awkward. It took several tries before I managed to do it.

 

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Mike

 

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I finished the Forestay today. The rope is .054 Brown served with 50wt thread. To thin out the splice as much as possible I decided to include only one served end into the splice. To make this work I had to measure exactly how much length of serving would be needed. That turned out to be 4". The serving adds quite a bit to the thickness of the splice, so doing it this way reduces the overall thickness of the splice considerably.

 

Here you can see where the serving ends (as indicated by the green arrow) and where the beveled cut rope was glued to the served side.

 

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As you can see, I didn't tighten anything up yet.

 

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The gang of ropes turned out to be a bit too tight once the Forestay was added and it's crushing the ropes below it. I'm thinking that perhaps I should move it up as shown in "Rigging Fore-and-Aft Craft" Lennarth Peterson: The British Naval Cutter

 

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Mike

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Looks very good Mike.   I wouldnt move it like the book.   Think about what would happen over time if on the actual ship it was there.  Small movement in the mast would cause that rope to shimmy back and forth and move around.  The top edge of that strap although not razor sharp would slowly act as a knife weakening and  tearing/cutting through the stay over time as the mast moved ever- so slowly back and forth.....

 

Can you picture that?

 

Chuck

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The main stay isnt situated on top of the shroud gang....just slide it over and around the back of the shroud gang...This is actually more stable and typical.   Take a look at this contemporary model... although it is not a cutter, it is still typical of how the stay appears around the shroud gang rather than stacked "next in line" on top very neat.  If that makes sense.  It need not be stacked.  Although mine did seem to fall that way naturally.

 

shroud gang.jpg

 

loweryardslingrigged.jpg

shroud gang.jpg

loweryardslingrigged.jpg

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The stay collar should loop around behind the gang of shrouds rather than over them. As the stay tightens, the shrouds will be cinched in slightly. As Chuck says, avoid that strap!

Edited by druxey

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I've been tidying up a bit lately. Managed to get some paint on the chainplates, which are now ready for weathering. I just need to decide what look to go for. Most of the rigging needed some tightening up as well. The two eyebolts that secure the bobstay to the hull where moved forward to prevent the bobstay from interfering with the anchor hoisting. The eyebolts are now 1 1/4" from the stem. The original holes where filled and re-painted. The two ladders that were apparently not glued down securely and knocked off during the rigging process are now on the deck.

 

The thrill of the day, at least for me, was getting the starboard side ratlines completed. The shrouds where checked after every square knot and clove hitch was tightened to insure that there was no hourglass shape creeping in. I found this to be an very interesting process. I learned a lot and planning ahead definitely helps things go easier.

 

Hopefully this is what ratlines are supposed to look like. . .

 

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Mike

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4 hours ago, Erik W said:

The ratlines look great.  How long did it take you to do the them?

 

Thank you, Erik! I'm embarrassed to say, but almost three days. The third day was spent getting the lines into some sort of uniformity. Some of the clove hitches needed tightening and some of the line lengths needed adjusting. Not a big deal, just time consuming.

 

Mike

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Hello everyone,

 

I've completed a few projects ahead of finishing up the standing rigging. One being the repainting of the workroom and the other being the necessary shortening of the two yards, as per Chuck's instructions. No doubt he will have the drawings and related comments available when he has time. I could have made all new ones, however I wasn't really happy with the idea having to do that. Since the stock thickness remains the same for both. I just shortened them and re-tapered them to the proper spec with the use of a hand drill. The lower yard needed new sheaves and there was just enough length available to allow for this. I left them unpainted so you can see what they look like at this time. I was able to salvage those pesky to make stops as well. 

 

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Mike

 

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