Bomb Vessel Granado by Rustyj - FINISHED - 1:24 - cross-section

[harvey1847]

Only three hours?  I guess we all work pretty much the same way... Have you seen albert´s workshop? the one who is with the Naiad. It´s like a surgery room.

 

Anyway, I always like to see the workshops of the people around. No room in the house smells like our shops with all that dust, oil, paints, jars and thousand of hours working there to build jewels.

 

Enjoy the weekend!

 

 

Daniel.

[Rustyj]

Hi Greg. It would be an honor to clean up after you!

 

Hi Michael and Grant, It just struck me as funny when Antony was talking about “clean build”

and I knew I had all that cleaning to do.  So it was fun to share with you all.

 

Oh yeah when I first started building it was on a small table in the corner of the living room.

You know I kept that a whole lot cleaner with the Admiral right there.  

[Rustyj]

Hi Daniel, We were posting at the same time.   Yeah I’ve envied all those spotless,

well organized shops for years. But then once I walked into one of those they would

never be the same again!  

 

I agree the aroma of the shop is something else but I also find that we are the

only ones who truly appreciate it.  

[captainbob]

Glad to know I'm not the only one Rusty!

I suspect if you took a poll there are quite a lot uf us.

 

Bob

[Timothy Wood]

 It's been a while since I've checked in on your build, I must say I have missed much!  You are doing a fantastic job and it's been a pleasure catching up on your build.  

 

Cheers,

Tim

[Rustyj]

Again thank you all for stopping by. The deck has been tree nailed and I will

have the inboard planking completed this weekend.

 

 

 

I have been ignoring the 800 pound gorilla in the room. I now have to address it.

So I’m finally looking ahead to the cannon and mortar. You see I do not own a

lathe and I’m hard pressed to spend $400-$800 dollars just to make a couple of

cannon.  I’ve also looked at the less expensive lathes like Proxxon but that only

does wood. If I spend that much should I spend more for a metal lathe but would

the cost be justified and worth it and on and on my mind goes!

 

One alternative was to see if I could commission someone to make them for me.

As they are so big I’m thinking they could be turned out of boxwood or holly or

some such close grained hardwood.

 

I forgot to put a ruler on the plans but the cannon is 4 ½” long and ¾” wide.

 

 

The mortar is 2 ¾” long and 1 ½” wide.

 

 

Oh decisions, decisions, decisions!  

Edited April 8, 2015 by Rustyj

[gjdale]

Well Rusty,

 

With the quality and volume of your work, and given that you are truly a "dark-sider", I would say that there is nothing for it but to take the plunge and buy yourself a lathe for Xmas. And you may as well be hung for a sheep as a lamb, so go with the metal-working lathe. I can thoroughly recommend the Sherline.

 

Looking forward to seeing pics of your new lathe :P

[Rustyj]

Oh Grant you are such a help!

[Decoyman]

Gerard Delacroix, in his instructions for his Chaloupe Armee en Guerre, outlines a method of turning a cannon using 'standard' electric drill (not a mini-drill), two trestles, a length of broom handle, a 40 x 60-80 mm block of wood and a 2.5 mm nail. You will also need some bungee-type elastic luggage straps. He used these bits and pieces to turn a cannon about 85 mm long and 15 mm in diameter, not dissimilar to your dimensions.

 

Essentially the first trestle forms a stand for the drill, which is held on using one of the bungees. The nail is driven into the wooden block at the centre-height of the drill above the trestle. The second trestle is placed alongside the first and the broom handle strapped to it. This forms the tool rest for a chisel, to be used to shape the cannon. You fix the timber blank for the cannon to the drill chuck using a screw run into one end and with its head removed. The nail in the block locates into a hole in the other end of the blank. A third bungee holds the block with the nail to the first trestle and then you have a rudimentary lathe.

 

Delacroix used beech dowel for his cannon. I haven't decided what to use myself, but I do have some decent chunks of ebony, so I might try one of them. I will probably also have a go with brass or possibly steel, since I do have a small Cowells lathe available (sorry).

 

 

Regards

 

Rob

[fnkershner]

Rusty - I was just about to suggest something very similar to what Rob mentions above. Do you have a Drill Press? I picked one up at Home Depot for $150. It can be used as a poor man's lathe. And I have seen others use a Drill press to make cannons.

[mtaylor]

Rusty,

 

I agree with Grant.  It depends on what your future plans are.  Lathes do have their uses for other than cannon. 

 

Otherwise, use the drill press method.  I did some small cannons (1:85) using a Dremel and files.  The drill press would just be "bigger".

[fnkershner]

Just remember - one of the reasons we do this hobby is to justify more tools!

[augie]

1"+ stock on a drill press with files ?  I know some folks can pull almost anything off....but wow!

 

Much as I hate to say it, I think Grant is pointing you in the right direction.  Or perhaps he'd agree to be your outside contractor!

[Rustyj]

Thanks all for your comments.

 

I have a drill press and haven’t thought about trying to turn something like this in it yet. I have done

small stuff in it but as Augie says the size is an issue. The first issue would be cutting the block or

dowel down to ½” so it would fit in the chuck. Then if that was successful I would need to get a good

set of tools for turning which I now see are quite far ranging in price. I assume that in general terms

cheaper is not better when purchasing these.  But then I’ve seen sets for 200-300 hundred dollars.

 

Mike, I too agree with Grant that “dark side” builds lend themselves to getting a lathe but I don’t stick

to just scratch building either. There are several kits I want to build too. Although I will do some

modifications to them…..Hmmmmmm.

 

And then Floyd mentioned my weakness and that is I LOVE TOOLS.

 

Crap, in my mind I’m getting nowhere. Anybody have a rich uncle?  

[gjdale]

Sounds to me like you've already decided Rusty. Now you're just trying to get us to help justify the expenditure to the Admiral!!! ;)

[Decoyman]

No rich uncle I'm afraid. If there was one I'd be first in the queue.

 

You don't need to turn the blank down to fit in the chuck - just drill a hole in the centre, run a screw in and cut the head off. You can hold the smooth part of the shank of the screw in the chuck.

 

Rob

[mtaylor]

Rusty,

 

Ok.. forget the lathe for second... or two.   What Rob said about the blank.   No expensive tools needed... sandpaper, files, maybe a chisel if you feel dangerous.  Oh.. and time. 

[Rustyj]

Hi Rob, Thanks for the screw idea!

 

Mike, As you said it will take a long time I think as some parts require the removal of 1/4"

or more of material. That's a whole lot of sanding and filing.

 

Ok the planking in board is complete. As I mentioned before I used red heart.

I also cut some thin veneers to line the inside of the gun ports. I did not think

far enough ahead for the sweep ports so they will be painted red to match. They

are so small I don't believe anyone will know the difference.

 

That is except for all of you.  

 

 

 

 

Edited April 8, 2015 by Rustyj

[fnkershner]

This is a excellent example of coloring with wood. And a great result.

[Rustyj]

Thanks Floyd. It's really fun to do.

 

Nothing really exciting to show all of you. I have cut the wales from cherry and installed them.

Once they are sanded I will be coloring them black with Fiebings leather dye. This will be the

first time I have used it so this might be interesting!  

 

I have depleted most of my ebony and will probably discontinue using it anymore. It’s bad for

you, I’m not religious enough about wearing a mask and it’s just messy.

 

 

As far as the rest of the planking goes I will be using Boxwood. The plans show planking

only above the wales but I may put two or three rows below the wales too.

Edited April 8, 2015 by Rustyj

[Timothy Wood]

Rusty,

 

Nedless to say, I'm looking forward to seeing the completed project.  You are doing a beautiful job on her!

 

Tim

[ChrisLBren]

Hi Rusty,

 

Good luck with the Fiebings - love this stuff - just make sure to mask everything - it splatters easily.  

Chris

[Rustyj]

Thanks Tim.

 

Hi Chris. I’ve played with it a bit. It is as thin as water. The best way I found to do it on

something this large is to use a cut up cotton tee shirt. Using rubber gloves of course I

dipped the tee shirt in the dye squeezed the excess out and then rubbed it in. At the ends

I did tape it off and used a small brush to better control it. I’m very happy with the way

it came out. After it dried I also installed three rows of planking below the wales. That

is the extent of hull planking I will do.

 

 

Edited April 8, 2015 by Rustyj

[mtaylor]

Sweeeeeeeeeeeeetttttttttttttt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[WackoWolf]

I know everyone here expected nothing less from you. Beautiful Work. I will be waiting to see this in person come April. Wish you and the family the best. Keep the pictures coming.

[gjdale]

Looks fantastic Rusty. One question if I may. What is the reason that you (and others) use the Fiebings leather dye for staining the timber, instead of say, an ordinary black spirit-based timber stain?

[Decoyman]

What method do you use to get those neat black lines between your planking? Do you use the same system for the deck and for the hull?

 

Rob

[Rustyj]

Thanks everyone for your comments and likes.  

 

Mike, Ttttthhhhhaaaaaannnnnkkkkksssssssssss.  

 

Hi Joe, thanks and I try to remember to take pictures. Sometimes I get so wrapped up in

what I’m doing I forget to take them.

 

Hey Grant, The main reason I chose the Fiebing Dye was that I saw and liked the results

from others using it. Also for me there is not the smell associated with spirit based stains.

 

Hi Rob, It is the same for the deck planking. I edge glue black construction paper to one

edge, trim it tight and then glue the plank down. Repeat as needed.

[ChrisLBren]

Looks great Rusty - i can't tell from the photo - do you have a top finish on it or not ?  Ive seen the dyed used with or without - personally i like a bit of glow on my dyed wales so in my case Danish OIl Worked well as does Tung Oil.  Im sure Wipe On Poly wood have a similar effect.

[Rustyj]

Hi Chris,

 

Yes there is one coat of satin wipe on poly on the wales and hull planking. I do it as much for the look as the

protection. I have yet to try the danish or tung oil but I am thinking of trying that too.