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Thanks George, Mark, Russell (you didn't have to wait long :D ) and Janos :) .

 

Ribs

 

I used the plug to form the 1/32" square ribs, once again using Tamiya tape to hold them in shape while they dried. The Tamiya tape holds onto the resin plug very well, and is easy to apply using the tape holder/cutter. The tape is 1/4" wide :

 

Ribs 001.jpg

 

A couple of hair clips hold the rib in position whilst the glue dries :

 

Ribs 002.jpg

 

The aftmost rib. The tops of the ribs will be trimmed when they are all fitted :

 

Ribs 003.jpg

 

:cheers:  Danny

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Hi Danny,

 

Been following along from the back row. To echo what all above have already said...just gorgeous work.

 

I also just want to say thank you for posting this method. Exactly what this newbie needed as a guide as I try to scratch out a ships boat to replace what came in my kit.

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel.

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Next jobs were the Fore and Aft Platforms. Card templates were made for both :

 

Fore Platform 001.jpg

 

The first plank of the fore platform. The glue has just been applied and not yet cleaned up :

 

Fore Platrform 002.jpg

 

A pic of the fore platform at a later stage of the build :

 

Fore Platform.jpg

 

The aft platform. The Knees have also been fitted in this pic, but I later removed them to fit the stern sheets (seats) :

 

Aft Platform.jpg

 

:cheers:  Danny

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Thwarts

 

The Thwarts are next. The central one is fitted with the clamp that holds the mast, and a step is fitted to the keelson below it :

 

Thwarts 002.jpg

 

Thwarts 003.jpg

 

The Stern Sheets and Knees :

 

Thwarts 004.jpg

 

The upper fore Platform and Breasthook in the bow :

 

Thwarts 005.jpg

 

There are three eyebolts and rings fitted, one each in the stem and sternpost and one amidships. These are the smallest ones I've made so far - 0.35mm wire, the ring is 1mm inside diameter :

 

Eyebolt and Ring.jpg

 

:cheers:  Danny

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Gunwales

 

I cut the gunwales from a single piece each side after first tracing around the upper hull. A compass was used to get the inner edge parallel. It is 2.5mm wide :

 

Gunwales 001.jpg

 

It's a bit hard to see in these pics, but I've scribed a small moulding into the outer edge :

 

Gunwales 002.jpg

 

Gunwales 003.jpg

 

Masking tape was used to hold the gunwale down while the glue dried :

 

Gunwales 004.jpg

 

The completed gunwales :

 

Gunwales 005.jpg

 

:cheers:  Danny

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Hi Danny,

 

As usual your workmanship is impeccable. You continue to raise the bar!

I've been trying to understand the "rolling bevel". I've been staring at the pics for 15 minutes and am still trying to get my head around it. It's important to me since I'm planning on scratch build of a Glouchester Mackeral Seine boat which will be clinker planked as well. Thanks.

 

Best, John

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Hi Danny,

 

As usual your workmanship is impeccable. You continue to raise the bar!

 

I've been trying to understand the "rolling bevel". I've been staring at the pics for 15 minutes and am still trying to get my head around it. It's important to me since I'm planning on scratch build of a Glouchester Mackeral Seine boat which will be clinker planked as well. Thanks.

 

Best,

John

I hope I understand correctly - if not, I would appreciate having my error pointed out.

As I understand it, a 'rolling bevel' means that the bevel on the planks is not fixed to a specific angle, but gradually changes from none mid-ship to almost 90 degrees at bow and stern - hence it is rolling along the edge of the plank?

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Thanks very much for the kind replies Christian, Greg, George, Johann, John and Highlander. They are much appreciated :) .

 

Christian - no, I won't be building the Pinnace.

 

Johann - that's some seriously good work you are doing on your Longboat :) .

 

John - It took me a while to understand the purpose of the Rolling Bevel as well ;) .

 

Highlander nearly got it right, except that the bevel only rolls for the last couple of (scale) feet from the bow and stern. Picture the Rabbet - it's a parallel groove the thickness of the planks, whereas the clinker planking overlaps each plank by a couple of (scale) inches. As the plank approaches the bow (or stern) it needs to transition from Clinker to Carvel, hence the "Rolling Bevel". The diagrams below may help explain how it works - they are copied from the Cutter Instructions written by David Antscherl :

 

Rolling Bevel.jpg

 

:cheers:  Danny

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Thank you John - I had an idea you may have been lurking on this build :D .

 

Russell - I was only quiet on the computer. It was doing it's "hissy-fit" thing again for the past week or so, making posting very difficult. I've actually finished the Cutter, more posts are about to follow.

 

Regarding the "1mm" ring - I wrapped the wire around a 1mm drill to roll it round. The drill bit is only a cheapie and actually measures 0.098mm :D .

 

:cheers:  Danny

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Rudder and Tholes

 

Here's a pic of the Rudder. The hinge straps are paper coloured with wood stain. The hinges themselves are non-existent, the rudder is simply glued to the transom :

 

Rudder.jpg

 

The Tholes are the period equivalent of rowlocks. I made the support braces using my "mass production" method - most of the shaping work was done on the Byrnes saw, the final rounding done was done with needle files :

 

Tholes 001.jpg

 

Tholes 002.jpg

 

Tholes 003.jpg

 

Tholes 005.jpg

 

Tholes 006.jpg

 

Tholes 007.jpg

 

:cheers:  Danny

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Oars

 

I made the oars from English Box. The Byrnes thicknesser and sander did most of the work, the rounded middle section was done in a similar manner to shaping masts and yards. The first pic shows the oars before any hand finishing started.

 

Oars 002.jpg

 

Finished 002.jpg

 

The square thicker section near the handgrip acts as a counterweight to make rowing easier.

 

:cheers:  Danny

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Dan

 

love the build

re the oars

we called them sweeps on the 32' cutters and 27' whalers back in the 70's

not sure if that is a relatively new term or not

the blades had a definite curvature to them... once again that could be a newer thing

 

Alan

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