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DocBlake

Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style

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I tackled the transom problem today.  Because of problems with the lofting of the after cant frames, the frames did not line up with the transom. The last 4 frames tended to curve inward, like the bow, rather than flow straight to the transom.  The only solution was to cut each of the final frames and "bend" then outward to meet the planking which is already in place.  The frames were then  glued to the planking, and when the glue is completely dry, I'll fair the inside of the hull where the "surgery" took place prior to planking the inner bulwarks.  It was REALLY difficult to chuck a cutoff wheel into my Dremel and cut the frames off after all the work that went into building them!  Fortunately, I'm planking both sides of the model down to the wales, inboard and outboard, so the "fix" will not show.

 

The first photo shows the problem, the second shows the cuts and the third shows the frames straightened out and glued to the planking. 

 

Now on to the port side!

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Thanks, Brian.  Here's a final shot after fixing the port side also.  The port side wasn't nearly as bad as the starboard.  Next up is finishing the fairing of the transoms and installing the wales.  When that's done the framing is complete and I'll begin work on the lower deck.

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Hi Lou!  Thanks for looking in.

 

  The alignment of those last frames is a design flaw that was supposed to have been corrected prior to release of the kit.  Apparently mine got through without the correction.  Obviously, setting the angle of the transom could change things a bit, but the issue here Is the angle that the frames sit and not the transom angle.  Had the transom been less wide, a fix may not have been necessary.  All in all, it turned out fine.   I just need to sand and pare the wood inboard where the fix was made to prepare for the inside planking. 

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Busy day, yesterday.  I installed the wales below the black strake on both sides.  I also glued the transom timbers in place.  There are supposed to be two horizontal timbers, and two vertical ones that hug the stern deadwood.  There is supposed to be a space between the top transom timber and the wing transom.  After some thought I added a third timber where that space would have been.  It seemed to make the fairing easier and I think it looks OK.  The planking is done on the bulwarks and the transom timbers are faired.  Once the counter is planked, I'll trim the bulwark planking, the black strakes and the wales to their finished length.  BTW, the transom timbers appear pinkish in color on the photo.  That's just the lighting.  They are maple, just like all the framing.

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In regards to the aft framing and transom, I will need to check mine before I get that far.  It may allow me to adjust the width of the transom as you mentioned.  Of course, mine was one of the last kits, so it may not be necessary at all.

 

Your model is coming along wonderfully Dave.

 

Jeff

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Thanks, Jeff.  Don't hesitate to ask any questions...I'll help if I can.  The practicum is one thing, but building experience is another.  This is almost a custom-kit, and a lot of modifications have to be made.  I asked Mike Shanks a million questions as I've been building, and this has been a huge help.  I've had to make over  multiple parts to fit my model, so this is good practice for scratch building. The later kits may not have as many "glitches", though.   Don't worry. It will come together!

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I finished all the treenails in the outer bulwark planking.  I also changed the stern.  Something didn't look quite right back there, and I realized that the counter planking needed something to divide it from the framing visually.  Like the black strake and wales separate the bulwark planking from the framing.  So I simply had the black strake and wale "turn the corner" on each side and end at the sternpost.   I think it looks better, and it's not without precedent, even though it's not in the plans!

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Thanks, Brian.  The black strake/wale just "ends" on this model, unlike the MS AVS kit which has the wale continue up as the fashion piece and then the taff rail.  It needed an upgrade!

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I guess with the wale extension you won't be adding the fashion piece? Either way she's looking beautiful. What are your plans for finishing the transom outboard?

hamilton

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I finished up the third coat of poly on the exterior.  Before I did that, I added some trim made of purple heart above and below the great cabin lights.  It carries the color scheme of the topsides around to the stern of the ship. 

 

I cut out and cleaned up the lower deck beams,  I'm planning to change a few things down there, so I started scratch building the ship's stove.  The kit provides a very nice 3-D printed stove, but I wanted my own.  It's kind of a modified Brodie stove without the chain-driven rotisserie.  The first step was to build a "core" out of 2 pieces of wood.  I then added the sides out of 1/32" plywood.  The grid irons are brass rod passing through holes drilled with a #75 drill.  The boiler tops and lids are made of wood, the handles and the diagonal reinforcing rods are steel wire.  The oven doors, firebox door and ash tray door are all 1/64" plywood...the hinges are cardstock.   I made the spit racks out of brass rod, soldered them together and trimmed them to shape.  I need to add the legs, build a grease pan and add some trim to the stove before priming and painting.

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Here's the finished stove.  I still have to finish the grease tray.  The stove was to have a guard rail surrounding the top cooking surface, but I felt I had to draw the line somewhere.  The hinges and firebox door/oven doors are far from perfect...even in this scale every little error shows.  Still, I do like working in the larger scales in general because of the detail it allows one to add.

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Just discovered your log.  It's really impressive! 

What is your inventory of power tools?  I'm always fascinated with scratch models, but I don't want to acquire all the power tools that seem necessary.

Great build and helpful log. 

Cheers.

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Thanks, all.  David:  The stove is flat black - the lighting is giving it a kind of weird color in the photos.  The Charly Noble will slip down over the protruding brass chimney.  It will be made of brass and blackened.

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Sorry, Ken I forgot to respond.  I'm a woodworker, so I have a full compliment of tools in my shop.  Most of them are not applicable to model work because of scale issues.  Those I use for modeling include a Byrnes miniature table saw, a Dremel tool drill press and router attachment (both cheap and helpful) and a regular old scroll saw.  Of all these, the Byrnes saw (or equivalent) is probably most important. I small benchtop sander is helpful, also.

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