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La Pinta 1492 by samejia - Amati - scale 1:65


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Hello everybody, this is my first build and im full of questions, I have read hundreds of posts and the ship modeling simplified book. With this I thought I could begin. So my first post and first question, im triying to dry fitt everything but it doesnt quite match, heres what happens (see pic).

 

Thanks for any help you can give! does the deck piece need bending? never heard that before!

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Hi there:

 

That last post wasn't too helpful, but I think you might need to widen the bulwark slots on the sub deck. The deck piece should have little slots around the edge that fit around the bulwark extensions. Often times these slots are not in exact position or are cut too narrowly. The sundeck piece should be flexible enough that it will just bend into place - you shouldn't have to steam bend it. Some decks I've worked with are pretty fiddly and need to be worked into place with a bit more effort than others....work the slots a bit with a square needle file to widen and/or deepen them as necessary....

 

You might also check the bulkheads to make sure that their tops are flush with the centre keel when they're fitted. If they aren't then the deck will ride up a bit and cause a bit of mayhem. It's hard to tell from the picture whether this is an issue or not.

 

Hope this helps

hamilton

current builds: Corel HMS Bellona (1780)
 
previous builds: MS Phantom (scuttled, 2017); MS Sultana (1767); Corel Brittany Sloop (scuttled, 2022); MS Kate Cory; MS Armed Virginia Sloop (in need of a refit); Corel Flattie; Mamoli Gretel; Amati Bluenose (1921) (scuttled, 2023); AL San Francisco (destroyed by land krakens [i.e., cats]); Corel Toulonnaise (1823); 
MS Glad Tidings (1937) (in need of a refit)HMS Blandford (1719) from Corel HMS GreyhoundFair Rosamund (1832) from OcCre Dos Amigos (missing in action); Amati Hannah (ship in a bottle); Mamoli America (1851)Bluenose fishing schooner (1921) (scratch)
 
under the bench: Admiralty Echo cross-section; MS Emma C Barry; MS USS Constitution; MS Flying Fish; Corel Berlin; a wood supplier Colonial Schooner Hannah; Victory Models H.M.S. Fly; CAF Models HMS Granado; MS USS Confederacy

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I can't quite tell from the pictures but it looks like the tops of the bulwarks are going to need to be faired just like the exteriors do for planking.  That's a really impressive upsweep on the deck.  I'm looking forward to seeing your progress on this one.

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Thank you very much Hamilton, the file seems to be working and the piece is falling nicely in pace, ill see if the bulwarks and center keel are flush to make sure its level and wont cause trouble later on. Ill post a couple of better pictures tomorrow morning.

 

Thank you very much! help like yours helps new guys like me takle through this troubles and is greatly appreciated

 

I extend this thanks to you too shane! ill keep you posted

Edited by samejia
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Hello, I will be observing your progress. I have the same model waiting to be built...

Have fun

Paweł

Paweł

 

 

Current build: HMS Pandora: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3409-hms-pandora-by-jastrz%C4%85b-constructo-185/

 

 

 

Finished projects:

Roar Ege 1:25, Billing Boats

Albatros 1:55, Constructo

Santa Maria 1:50, Mantua

 

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When you're putting a false deck on a plank-on-bulkhead (POB) model, you need to be aware of multiple curves and angles and the way the bulkheads fit to the keel piece. I can't tell for sure on this model from the photo, but on most ships, the deck curves from side to side (that is, it is higher in the center than at the edges) and it also curves from fore to aft. When you sand the tops of the bulkheads in preparation for attaching the false deck, you need to make sure you are aware of these curves. The illustration below may help visualize this:

 

Note how the top of the bulkhead (in the side view) is angled to match the angle of the keel piece. (The sides will eventually be angled as well when you prepare the hull for planking. That process is called "fairing" the hull. It is necessary so that the planks will lie flat on the edges of the bulkheads.) As you sand the angle on top of the bulkheads, you want to be aware of the side-to-side curve as well - you want to maintain that curve - not sand it away. Try using a small block of wood (maybe 1-inch by 3-inches) with sandpaper glued on to it to sand the tops of the bulkheads. Take your time and once you think you have it right, put the model down and go do something else until the next day. Then come back and look at it again and you're almost guaranteed to see something that could be improved. As with a house, you are building the foundation of the ship. If the foundation is bad, you'll have more problems down the road, so it's best to get it right in the first place.

 

Cheers -

John

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It's nice to see that I'm not the only beginner on the forum. I've just finished my first build which was Albatros from Constructo and I'm currently waiting for my next project to be delivered. Looking forward to follow this build and learn from all the useful comments.

 

 

...anders...

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No problem! Best of luck - I'll be sure to keep an eye on the build as it comes together

hamilton

current builds: Corel HMS Bellona (1780)
 
previous builds: MS Phantom (scuttled, 2017); MS Sultana (1767); Corel Brittany Sloop (scuttled, 2022); MS Kate Cory; MS Armed Virginia Sloop (in need of a refit); Corel Flattie; Mamoli Gretel; Amati Bluenose (1921) (scuttled, 2023); AL San Francisco (destroyed by land krakens [i.e., cats]); Corel Toulonnaise (1823); 
MS Glad Tidings (1937) (in need of a refit)HMS Blandford (1719) from Corel HMS GreyhoundFair Rosamund (1832) from OcCre Dos Amigos (missing in action); Amati Hannah (ship in a bottle); Mamoli America (1851)Bluenose fishing schooner (1921) (scratch)
 
under the bench: Admiralty Echo cross-section; MS Emma C Barry; MS USS Constitution; MS Flying Fish; Corel Berlin; a wood supplier Colonial Schooner Hannah; Victory Models H.M.S. Fly; CAF Models HMS Granado; MS USS Confederacy

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When it comes time to gluing the false deck down, I've found that plenty of rubberbands hold the curves in place until the glue dries. No fancy clamps needed.

Bob

 

"Even while the storm raged at it's worst, my ship was wholesome and noble." - Captain Joshua Slocum

 

 

Current Builds:

L'Hermione 1780 - 1:89 - Artesania Latina   http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10261-hermione-la-fayette-1780-by-bobstrake-artesania-latina-scale-189/#entry305929<p>

 

Louise - 1:26 - Constructo  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/11855-louise-by-bobstrake-constructo-scale-126/?p=360370
 

Completed Builds:

Carmen 1850 - 1:80 - Constructo - First Build   http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10398-carmen-1850-by-bobstrake-constructo-scale-180/#entry31137

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I usually use straight pins to batten the sub deck down....but this can be a pain.....rubber bands are never plentiful enough in my house to take that route - the kids always manage to get at them somehow.....

hamilton

current builds: Corel HMS Bellona (1780)
 
previous builds: MS Phantom (scuttled, 2017); MS Sultana (1767); Corel Brittany Sloop (scuttled, 2022); MS Kate Cory; MS Armed Virginia Sloop (in need of a refit); Corel Flattie; Mamoli Gretel; Amati Bluenose (1921) (scuttled, 2023); AL San Francisco (destroyed by land krakens [i.e., cats]); Corel Toulonnaise (1823); 
MS Glad Tidings (1937) (in need of a refit)HMS Blandford (1719) from Corel HMS GreyhoundFair Rosamund (1832) from OcCre Dos Amigos (missing in action); Amati Hannah (ship in a bottle); Mamoli America (1851)Bluenose fishing schooner (1921) (scratch)
 
under the bench: Admiralty Echo cross-section; MS Emma C Barry; MS USS Constitution; MS Flying Fish; Corel Berlin; a wood supplier Colonial Schooner Hannah; Victory Models H.M.S. Fly; CAF Models HMS Granado; MS USS Confederacy

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Hello Everybody about time for an update! We decided to start planking the hull after dry fitting everything, the deck will need to be bended using the rubber bands but were confident it will work. Planking has been a difficult process, we started from top to bottom on one side only (next time ill try to alterante sides) and as we got closer to the bottom we realized we may be doing something wrong, holes started appearing between planks but the shape seems to be fine, we filled the wholes and sanded and the results are as follows. A quick noob question, the planks for the bottom part of the hull will need to be cut shorter in order for them to fitt right? here are some pics of our progress so far! Everybodys help has been invaluable to our progress so far and we really appreciate it, it really keeps us going.

 

 

 

Santiago Mejía

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Hello Samejia..

For a very first build, I think you are doing an excellent job.  

I am concerned, however, that you have planked one entire side of the hull before starting the other side. Planking one side entirely before planking the other side can cause the hull to warp.  I hope you are going to plank the port side very soon before any warping can occur.  Normally, hulls are planked one or two strips on each side at a time.  I don't mean to be critical, just helpful.  I look forward to the rest of your build.

Best to you,

Jerry

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