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Seventynet

HMS Victory by Seventynet - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 72

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Thanks to your thoughts Boyd, upon closer examination I would say that almost all of the 1 by 5 walnut planking supplied with the kit is edge grain on the face whereas the 1 by 16 is typical face grain. I think this has caused the spiled planks to look quite different. I would guess that all of the planking should be face grain (I hope I am using that term correctly but you can probably guess what I am trying to get at) if it is to be a final surface.

Ian

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Thanks Arthur! Yes I've tried moistening the area to see if that would give any improvement but it does not. I'm going to quit fretting about it and continue until I can find some suitable wood to replace those planks or just copper the thing. But I'll continue trying to do the job as if it is the final surface.

Best, Ian.

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Hi Ian, you will find that a lot of this "walnut" in kits are just walnut look a likes. There are lots of species of wood called walnut but are just that(name only), if you have a Windsor Plywood close by check and see if they have Mansonia aka African Walnut, I found some here and it looks real close to lots of the kit walnuts. I got mine for $4.99/bf, not too bad of a price for "Walnut"

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Don thanks so much for the tip on Mansonia. I shall visit my favorite store today.

 

Ian

 

Edit: Windsor Plywood (Calgary) say they haven't carried it for over 5 years - and talked to one of their buyers for me. They didn't appear too eager to hunt any down for me - probably when they learned how little I needed.

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Hello Ian, I think your planking techniques are exceptional . I never thought that it is your first build. You are doing a great job, so clean and neat...I will follow along.. :)

 

Kind regards

Dimitris

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Thank you for the praise Dimitris although it is undeserved. I think the difference between a beginner and an expert is primarily the time it takes to figure out and do something. Anyway it sure is nice to see others follow my build and give me advice. Thanks again.

Best, Ian

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I'm closing in on my starboard side second planking, at least from the middle gundeck down. We'll have to see whether a good sanding can improve the looks of this so-called "walnut" planking. But anyway, I think after the 481st plank I'm beginning to get the hang of it. :P

Best, Ian

 

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Thanks for the kind words Heinz, ZyXuz and David and the likes Dimitris, Ken, Arthur, Mort, Shihawk and others. Very much appreciated. I finished up the starboard side. Last plank installation below :).

Tomorrow I am going to cut the excess at the sternpost, fix a couple little issues, give it a sanding and then I'll be back.

 

Best, Ian

 

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Thanks a lot Don. I'm really not sure that masonia wood deserves to be shown off. I'll reserve judgement until I sand or scrape to a finer surface. Speaking of which I will look into scraping as an alternative to sanding Arthur, but I actually know nothing of scraping. I'll have to do a bit of research on this site.

Thanks, Ian

 

Edit: Ok, I'm sold: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10704-do-you-use-a-scraper-in-shaping-instead-of-sanding/page-1#entry323292

 

I just need to figure out what tool to use...

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My limited experience of Masonia is that it changes shade when looked at from different angles ,i,m not sure if yours is the same . But i have to agree it would be a shame to cover such a great planking job ,as always it,s your call ???

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Thanks for the likes Ken, Mike and Dimitris. Arthur you have turned me into a hardened scraper for life! ​It really is a superior method for surface preparation. I bought a cheap plastic holder from Stanley and a box of blades.

 

Shihawk you are right the wood does take on different character depending on the light. See my pictures below.

 

Can I ask for those in the know; should I seal the planking now? I won't likely finish the port side for 3 months given my various plans and typical snail-like pace. I am thinking that I'd use minwax wipe-on poly. My main concern would be whether that would limit the adhesives I might use if I do go ahead and copper. 

 

Best, Ian

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Hello Ian, 

 

today I have the time to tell you, that I really like the result of your planking job. I could not help you answering your question whether to seal it now or later. Are you planing to work out the spaces between the planks and fill them with wood filler like I have done it? Your work is so clean you don´t have to do this. Otherwise it will underline the running of the planks and make them more visible. 

 

Maybe there is another point interesting for you: the black wood filler make the wood look older and used. The color of the wood changes (it´s getting a little bit darker) and make differences disappear.  I am thinking on the few planks in the bow, you know? 

 

Best wishes for you and your model!

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Dimitris, Heinz and Gunther thanks for following my progress and the likes.

 

I have not yet decided whether I should cut in and fill spaces between the planks, I've just got my head down planking the other side. But I will say that I love the look you have created with your model Heinz. Whether I have the energy and skill to do that might be the real issue. Interesting what you say about the wood getting darker with time. That may be the solution in the end because I have been unsuccessful finding a source of mansonia wood (aka African walnut) to replace those spiled pieces.

 

Best, Ian

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Good day edge benders,

 

For what it's worth I thought I'd post a technique I've been using for quite a while now as I work through the second planking on my Vic. The reason it may be useful for CC builders is that unless you have elected to source different wood for your second planking with options for wider stock from which to spile from (and you're not going to copper) you will need to practice edge bending. I have been successful using the following technique (note I am not concerned at this particular juncture with using 85 mm planks because this part will be covered by the lower wales):

 

1. mark the required plank taper on the hull

2. transfer the taper measurements to the plank

3. plane and sand the plank to those measurements

4. soak the plank for 1/2 hour

5. cellophane the area where the wet plank will be bent on (cellophane because the wet plank will mobilize the glue from the adjacent plank (etc.) so it won't stick and pull fibres and just generally make a mess

6. clamp the piece using elastic bands and cut up erasers - ensuring that the top edges that otherwise want to lift up from the edge bend are pressed down

7. let dry

8. glue plank on the bare wood using the same clamping system.

 

The key thing is the use of elastics (wear eye protection) and erasers. Both of these things allow you to minutely adjust the pressure points and the erasers have the added benefit of sticking or holding the piece in place.

 

While you cannot tell in the picture, this bend is not a simple one plane bend - hence the need for a slight edge bend here.

 

You will see that my first planking has a severe uplift near the bow. That's where the planks want to go without spiling. So that's also an option with the second planking. But if you want to simulate a more lateral orientation you need to spile and edge bend (or just spile if you have the stock).

 

Sorry for the length of this post. Hope some may find this to be useful.

 

 

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Hello Ian

 

Thanks for looking in to my Paragon build.  I've looked through your log and you're doing an excellent job.

 

A few days ago there was an exchange about scrapers.  Lee Valley tools sells a set of small scrapers I find very useful:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=32672&cat=1,310,41069&ap=1

 

The site also contains a PDF of instructions on how to sharpen scrapers (click on the 'Inst' link)

 

Cheers.

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Thanks Arthur. These are not available for shipping to Canada. However a little more searching on Lee Valley shows a curved and gooseneck scraper along with a burnishing tool: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,310,41070&p=32644. I can see how useful the gooseneck would be around the stern and stem.

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Thanks for the kind words Greg. I find slow and easy gets me where I want to go with this beast. BTW I've asked the admiral for the Cape Cod Catboat kit for Christmas. We'll see but I am feeling lucky so I might have a good distraction from the Vic early in the new year.

Best, Ian

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Thanks for looking in and the likes and the compliments Mike and Dimitris. Should I be half as accomplished as any of you!

 

I have to confess, I now feel like a serial edge bender. When I was initially reading up on this hobby I kept seeing the advice on how you should spile and minimize edge bending. And my experience in spiling the starboard side, notwithstanding the mismatching wood issue, was positive. But given my circumstances edge bending is a reality for the port side. So far I am amazed how well it's working.

 

I have shown one picture of a plank to be edge bent against the adjacent planking to give you an idea of the bend. Of course I plane/sand/cut the bottom part of each end to the extent the narrowing plank trace allows - sort of a poor man's spile - then steam, clamp in place, remove, fine tune and then glue down.

 

Anyway I haven't had to install a single drop plank at the bow and probably won't in contrast to the starboard side. How much of that is careful drafting of the bands or edge bending instead of spiling I don't know.

 

Best, Ian

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Thanks for the likes and kind comments. I have decided to have a small update on my way to finishing second planking (below the wales anyway). It seems like a small step but in fact it has been a rather large effort getting this planking done. I'm going to take a bit of break before I post again.

 

Happy New Year to you all!

 

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and it just never seems to end...

 

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