Fair American by rafine - Model Shipways - Kitbashed

[KenW]

Since you have been great answering my questions, I have another one.   (Punishment?)

I know I am getting way ahead of myself, (I am still carving the bow and stern filler blocks), I was looking at your stern molding and the bow knees and rails.  It looks like you are able to score the wood perfectly down the middle making it look like you glued two pieces together - similar to the way you glued together three pieces of wood to make the head rail.

Is there a trick to the scoring, or your hand real steady with the x-acto blade, or did you glue two pieces together.  (Also, any tips about the round "ball" on the upper cheek knee would be appreciated.)

Thanks.

[rafine]

As they say Ken, "no good deed goes unpunished".  Just kidding. 

 

All of the work at the head was done with laminations -- I find it very difficult to do accurate scoring. I know that others use homemade scrapers to do this work. The stern moldings and those on the outside of the sheer rail were done with double bead molding from Northeastern Scale Lumber. I have no memory of doing the "ball".

 

Bob

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

i

[KenW]

Thanks.  I will do some research on this company's site.

[KenW]

Next question:  Where did you get the "chain plates" from?

I don't see anything like them in the kit.

Sorry to keep bothering you.

Cheers.

[rafine]

My best recollection, Ken, is that I used some long brass backing links that I had on hand from somewhere unknown. I cut off one end and then bent that end over.

 

Bob

[KenW]

Thanks Bob; I will keep a lookout for a source either deep in my cellar or the local hardware stores.

Edited August 25, 2013 by KenW

[Walter Biles]

Bob,

I seem to recall from my navy days, that when reporting aboard, before you stepped off the gangway, you saluted the Quartermaster and asked permission to come aboard, and when answered in the affirmative, you faced aft and saluted the colors, which when getting underway, were moved to the masthead.  This may explain the after flag staff, and it's apparent interference with the aft boom. It probably had a place to be stowed when underway. 

 

Walter Biles

Edited September 6, 2013 by Walter Biles

[KenW]

I am in the process of framing out the stern windows.  I agree with you that I will eliminate the two windows that are actually outside the cabin.  (Also, the kit only came with 6 windows.)

But I was wondering why the center window is a "dummy".  Was there a support there or something?  Why not have 5 "real" window.?

Thanks.

Cheers.

[rafine]

The best answer that I can give you is that the rudder passes behind that window and is probably enclosed, making a real window useless.

 

Bob

[EdatWycliffe]

Hi Bob,

 

I'm ready to rig cannon tackle and want to emulate your build. Is the breach rope threaded through the eyelet on the cheek that does not have the ring? Is the recoil tackle connected to the eyelet with the ring? Did you use two single blocks for the recoil rigging or a single and a double block? Thanks again for the help. Ed

[rafine]

Ed:

 

The breaching rope is seized to the ring bolts. The tackles (2 single blocks) are hooked to the eyebolts.

 

Bob

[EdatWycliffe]

Bob, (1) where do you purchase fittings such as split rings, eyebolts and chains? (2) Is there any place you know that supplies black (on brass) split rings and chains? (3) Is there a trick to painting brass? I have a dickens of a time painting the brass black. It seems to peel off at the slightest touch. Thanks, as always. Ed

[rafine]

Ed:

 

Rings, eyebolts and chains can be obtained from (among others) Model Expo. They can also be made from wire. I'm not aware of anyone that supplies them in black. As far as coloring the brass parts, I alternate between using chemical blackeners and paint. The blackeners can be frustrating, and I often give up and use paint. If you paint, try sticking the eyebolts (or the made up ringbolts) in holes in a block of wood to paint them. Let the paint dry thoroughly and use at least 2 coats. Try not to handle them too much and expect to have to touch them up.

 

Bob

[EdatWycliffe]

Thanks for the help, Bob. Your log and advice are super valuable. Ed

[EdatWycliffe]

Bob, do you recall the size of the eye bolts and padeye you used on the deck?

[rafine]

I'm sorry Ed but I don't recall, and I'm in Chicago at the moment and can't take a look at it.

 

Bob

[EdatWycliffe]

Thanks, Bob. Never a hurry. Enjoy Chicago. Still the best pizza outside of Little Italy.

[KenW]

I have yet another question: 

On your quarter badges, you have the window divided into 4 frames.  Did you use the two unused window frames from the stern?  If not, how did you create them?

Thanks.

[rafine]

I don't really remember, but looking at the model, that appears to be what I did. It wouldn't be difficult to make the frames from 1/32" x 1/32" strip wood in any event.

 

Bob

[cruiseholidays1]

RAFINE,  I HAVE BEEN CLOSELY WATCHING YOUR BUILD OF THE FAIR AMERICAN AND AM QUITE IMPRESSED WITH YOU EXPERTISE.  I AM TOTALLY IN AWE OF YOUR WORK.  THIS IS MY FIRST BUILD WITH HEAD RAILS, THE FAIR AMERICAN, AND AM HAVING ALMOST NO LUCK IN PUTTING TOGETHER THE HEAD RAILS.  DO YOU HAVE A SOURCE REFERENCE FOR THIS PART OF THE BUILD.

KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK. THANKS FOR THE INSPIRATION.

CHUCK 

[cruiseholidays1]

CAN ANYONE HELP ME IN GETTING GETTING A GOOD REFERENCE FOR BUILDING  HEAD RAILS.  I AM IN THE PROCESS OF BUILDING THE FAIR AMERICAN AND AM LOST AT THIS POINT.

THANKS IN ADVANCE

CHUCK

[WackoWolf]

Chuck,

 

   Please use lower case when typing. Upper Case and people think you are yelling. Have you done a search for others that are building the same ship. there are a couple of them, I am sure someone can help you with your question. Do a search for the fair American and you will find the logs and then you can ask the builder.

 

Welcome to MSW.

[rafine]

Chuck, I did the head rails on this build by laminating pieces of strip wood that were bent to shape and the edges sanded to the molding shape before gluing together and cutting to final length. Most builders seem to cut.the rails from sheet stock and then carve or scrape the moldings in.

 

Bob

[cruiseholidays1]

rafine, hi it's cruiseholidays1 (chuck) again.  i am reading the instructions on rigging the fair american.. they seem quite complicated and confusing if you follow the plans.  what did you use on a rigging sequence and plan?

your help is greatly appreciated.

[Mirabell61]

Bob,

 

what a lovely model !

I love everything on it, well done!

 

Nils

Edited June 1, 2014 by Mirabell61

[rafine]

Thanks so much Nils. It was one of my favorites to build.

 

Bob

[EdatWycliffe]

Bob, Fair American is progressing nicely. I'll post pictures soon. Quick question re channels. How did you achieve the look of a continuous loop of wire around the deadeye, through the channel and around the chainplate hook? Did you just hide the ends of the wire loop in the the channel slot? Solder? Slight of hand? Thanks, Ed

[rafine]

Glad to hear from you again Ed. On Fair American, I twisted a loop of wire around the deadeye, nipped off one end at the twist, passed the other end through the channel slot and then looped the wire through the bend that I had made in the chain plate and then bent the wire back on itself under the channel using tweezers. I hope that makes sense.

 

I look forward to seeing your photos.

 

Bob

[EdatWycliffe]

Perfect! Thanks much, Bob. Pictures this weekend.

[KenW]

I have another question.  The netting on the bow sprint rigging - did you tie it as the plans show, or did you use some netting or window screens?

Thanks.