WASHINGTON GALLEY by yamsterman - 1/48 SCALE P.0.F

[yamsterman]

hi chuck

i had to look twice myself at the wing transoms.....and the rest of em!!!

 

the wing transom starts off as a sqaure block of timber,slightly thicker than is required but wide enough to paste the plan view on top.

 

i had a play around this morning and remade the piece in 1/24 scale,primarily because its easier to photograph and secondly it shows the round up better.

 

i havnt gone to any great lengths to finish the piece,made from a bit of ramin i had lying around,but the photographs should show the construction sequence in the order i did it.

 

the rear face of the wing transom need to have its face angled in order to be in the same plane as the rabbet of the stern post......not shown on the plans.

the ends of the transoms may need to have an angle planed on them in order to fit flush against the rear face of frame 22.......the bottom of the wing transom will fit against the top of the rear part of frame 22.

 

hope this makes sense.

 

the following photos should be in the right order for the construction sequence.

[yamsterman]

hi ken and christian

thanks for looking in.........happy with the first frame to go in.....the aft cant frame may need some more work,need to study the plans a bit more!

looking forward to more frames and a ship slowly emerging!

cheers....mick

[kurtvd19]

Mick:

Absolutely a great job.  Your clear explanations and photos are surely helping a lot.  Chuck asked the question before I had a chance and your photos and explanation were very helpful.

Thanks,

Kurt

[Chuck Seiler]

Thanks Mick.  The one you are showing is transom piece 1.  I was more interested in piece(s) 5.   ...or are you still getting to that?

 

Chuck

[druxey]

Nice, clean work there, Mick. Those other 40 frames? Slow and steady does it. You'll get there.

[yamsterman]

Hi Kurt

Glad to be of any help.....good luck with your build

Cheers....mick

[yamsterman]

Hi Chuck

The counter fashion piece's? Yep I had a trial run at those to try and work out a method......must have got the wrong end of the stick with which bit you were interested in...oops!

Ideally those pieces need to be cut from a single piece approx 1 1\2 inchs wide by 4 inchs long by 1\2 inch thick.....with the test piece I laminated two1\4 inch pieces together.

The first profile I shaped was the stern view. I then superimposed the longitudinal plan on top of the previously shaped piece....trying to ensure the bottom and knuckle line corresponded with the previous piece. I did post some pictures in the previous post......if you would like I can rearrange those into a seperate post....pictures tend to be clearer than a thousand words.....these were only practise pieces and may not be good enough to include on the model....I need to get the stern framing up first and test fit them.

Hope this helps.

Cheers...mick

[yamsterman]

Hi druxey

Thanks for stopping by......I'm managing one frame a day at the moment. No rush.....should keep me out of trouble for a while!

Cheers....mick

[cog]

I thought you would do 1/2 a frame a day (keeps the doctor away) ... those enlargements make it 'sligtly' clearer ... the half frames are cut from 1 piece ? or are those made from multiple parts ...? if from a single piece, will you make frames from multiple pieces (4 or more)?

 

Cheers,

Edited September 9, 2015 by cog

[yamsterman]

Hi Carl

Half frames are cut from multiple pieces...there's a fore and aft side both sides made from 1\8 inchstock giving a frame thickness of 12 inchs full size. Once fore and aft side are glued the respective bevels are worked in and then the frame bolts are simulatedwith copper wire.

The main sqaure frames are made exactly the same way except that now there's a floor timber and rebate for the keel to contend with.

I try and avoid going to the docs....they keep finding reasons to send me away and slice me up!!!!

Been falling apart ever since I reached 40!!!!

Cheers....mick

[kurtvd19]

Mick:

I am not building the Washington - just following your build with great interest.  Too busy shipping plan sets out and all the day to day NRG stuff to tackle this one. 

I am very interested in seeing the way you are laying out and making up the parts for the whole stern area.

Kurt

Edited September 9, 2015 by kurtvd19

[Chuck Seiler]

Carl,

    To expand what Mick said, the full frames consist of up to 9 different pieces; 5 on one face and 4 on the other.  Those little short nibs at the end of the forward halves are killers!

 

Kurt,

    C'mon.  You move into management and suddenly you can't build a fully framed model?  Pfffff!!!!  What else are you doing?   

[kurtvd19]

Chuck:

Actually I am working on two fully framed models.  One is a commission for the WI Maritime Museum and the other is a canal boat from the Illinois & Michigan Canal.  The first is 75% done and the latter is on the drawing board/CAD/final research stage. 

Kurt

Edited September 9, 2015 by kurtvd19

[dgbot]

Kurt wish I could be there to see it built up close.

David B

[yamsterman]

Hi Kurt

Thanks to your supreme efforts,along with Jeff staudt and Mary's prompt dispatch of the plans I have my first full hull p.o.f on the building board.....a great introductory model....not too complicated but more than enough to present some interesting challenges! So thank you!!! It's a shame to can't have a go yourself but then there's only so manyhours in one day!

Before I tackle the rest of the stern area I'm planning on getting all the half frames and cants done fore and aft.

Midships frames are,hopefully , more straightforward.

She's quite broad and uniform in the beam so I suspect that this was an established design for cargo carrying utilised as an ad hoc gunboat at short notice?

The alternative rig would have required less manpower to operate?

Hopefully it will provide a nice contrast to the previously built sloop.....one for the Brits and one for the colonials!!

Cheers....mick

[yamsterman]

Re previous post

Alternative rig should read lateen rig......blasted predictive text again!!

Cheers...mick

[cog]

That last post would make a response to easy, Mick (LOL)

 

Thanks, Chuck. I might have to study some plans more closely(!). You know what management does to people ... at least here in Holland we say: "They are incapable of any work, but get the biggest salary" (I would like to emphasise get in contrast to earn)

 

Kurt,

Nothing personal ...!

 

Cheers

[grafting]

Hi Mike, 

I just received my plans for the Washington, planning on using mostly cherry that I had left over from several past woodwork projects.

Nice application of your indexing jig, never thought of using it for the keel frame floor timbers. I have used the same type of jig for making box joints in cabinets and drawers.

What is the make of your milling machine, or is it a drill press with X-Y Table? I'm in the market for one and haven't yet decided if a full blown mill is worth the investment for just a few applications in a ship model.  Regards Grafting  (Steve Laychak)

[yamsterman]

hi steve

welcome to the washington galley project!!!!

the milling machine i use is a micro mill/drill and matching x/y table from the seig(chinese manufacturer) machine company.

in all fairness its not a bad machine,cast iron construction,belt driven with two speed ranges and coarse and micro feed. you can knock out the tapered arbour fot the drill chuck and replace it with a collet arbour if required.

ive been using it four about four years now and to be honest have no complaints.

however if i were buying one today i would probably go down the proxxon/sherline route.

there is an english manufacture called cowells who make a beautifully accurate cast iron miller.....ideal for modelmaking......if you want to part with  £3500 .

the mill is an extremely useful piece of kit......if you can get aftermarket accessories such as rotary table and chuck , rotating and angled milling vices etc it opens up a world of possibilties.......its also a nice accurate pillar drill.

look forward to your start on the galley project

cheers....mick

[yamsterman]

washington galley part 7.....stern framing

 

 

hi all

been a busy little bee making frames.

the aft most gunport has now been framed. all frames have been left slightly over length....i will mark in the sheer and trim the frames at a later date.

 

you will see from the photos that i have been trying to ensure as much accuracy as possible.

 

however the top of the lower starboard gunport sill is approx 0.28mm lower than the port sill.

 

in my book this is accurate enough! im not sure what tolerances the original shipwrights would have worked too but this difference equates to about 1/2 inch in real life.

 

ive also now started to construct the first two half frames at the bow.

you can see from the photos how much offset there is between the front and rear components of the frame.....the bevel when cut will bled all of that in.

 

i have also ganged up ablock of 1/8 inch stock ready to cut the hawse pieces at a later date.

 

anyway photos enclosed for your perusal...comments....critiques....most welcome 

 

cheers....mick

[cog]

Mick,

 

marvelous ... (silence ... master shipwright at work)

[dvm27]

The hardest part of building a fully framed model (at least for me) is establishing a nice clean run of the gun port sills. Cumulative error makes it very difficult to add the mortises for the sills before raising the frames. I believe Toni (?) cut all hers after fully framing the model and drawing a nice shear line across the entire hull. However, it is a bit more difficult to cut the mortises when the frames are installed. Of course if you are planking the model it makes no difference as sills can be cut back or padded as needed to match the planking.

[yamsterman]

Hi Greg

I did think about leaving all the gun ports till after but it struck me as more difficult....and being ham fisted at times I'd probably break a frame!

So I decided to follow the practicum which recommends cutting the mortices as the frame is being built. The planking extends to one plank below the sale and all the planks up to the sheer plus the internal planking from deck level up.....so I guess there is a margin for a small error.

As this is the first complete hull I've attempted in p.o.f style I've elected to follow the practicum and not try to be clever.

Small steps!!! Hopefully this will lead to hms echo and ultimately hms euryalus.......with a few other practice pieces in between , increasing in complexity to further enhance my journeyman skills.

Thanks for looking in

Cheers....mick

[yamsterman]

Hi Carl

Silence? Not like you!

Cheers...mick

[yamsterman]

Hi don

The vertical measuring device is a mitutoyo vernier gauge fitted with a carbide scribing blade.

To buy one new would probably give you palpitations!! These gauges are primarily designed for the engineering industry for use on a surface plate in either inspecting components or for marking out. This one was given to me some time ago buy an engineer I work with.

Probably the best place to look is on eBay.....I recently brought a brand new Moore and wright micro meter depth gauge for 1/10 of the catalogue price plus a couple of other mitutoyo items.

Hope this helps

Look forward to following your Washington build

Cheers....mick

[yamsterman]

Hi don

Search for engineering tools or try mitutoyo,Moore and wright,starrett etc

Cheers....mick

[dgbot]

Don, I bought my Starrett straight edge 12" rule for almost nothing on EBay just look and be patient.

David B

[druxey]

Whether to cut in port sills before or after erecting the frames is a bit of a dilemma. If one has the discipline, temporarily erect the frames first, mark the sheer of the sills, disassemble again to cut the scores and finally reassemble permanently. That way gives one the best of both worlds. Sure, it's a bit more work, but....

[yamsterman]

Hi don

Great to see someone else building the Washington galley.....a nice introduction to a fully framed pof hull.

I did have to study the plans very carefully.....the practicum is a suggested order of building only and didn't give any measurements.

With regards to the keel I measured it as 3/16 inch thick (moulded dimension) by 7/32 inch in height....this was then cut on the Byrne's saw. The hog or rising wood that the frames are notched into was made as a seperate piece and again cut from 3/16 inch wide piece but 3/32 inch in height. The scores are 1/4 inch wide for the frames and each score is exactly 9/64 inch apart and 1/32 inch deep.

All other components for the stem are cut from 3/16 inch stock.....photocopy the relevant bits from the plans and cut out to use as templates.

The deadwood fore and aft were cut from several individual pieces of 1/8 inch stock. The stern post has to be cut from 1/4 inch stock as it tapers from its head to where it joins the keel.

The false keel was also cut from 3/16 stock 1/16 inch thick.

Hope this info helps

Cheers....mick

[yamsterman]

Hi druxey

Thanks for looking in.

Yep that's pretty much the way I'm going about it.....this is quite a small model even in 1/48 scale....being a clumsy sod sometimes I think if I tried to cut the rebates for sills and sweep ports after the frames are assembled I'm inviting a disaster.....so rebates are cut as frames are built....the acid test will be when the frames are up and a nice flexible batten is run along the the bottom edges do we arrive that lovely gentle sweep as per the plans?

But then again there's always isopropanol and some early Anglo Saxon language!!

Cheers....mick