Jump to content
src

Enterprise by src - Constructo - 1:51 - or Lessons in Adapt Improvise and Overcome

Recommended Posts

12 hours ago, src said:

Jonathan, thanks for the good words. 

I bought all my rigging from chuck@ syren ship modeling. There should be a link in the home page here. 

His prices are pretty reasonable and a very fast turn around here in the States 

Many thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got a bit of build time in this week. Between comments here and some PM time I got the driver boom figured out, thanks to all.

I found some stain that closely approximates the finish on the mahogany planks. They still need a bit of oil rubbed on them. The color is not perfect but by the time I get some rope coils on them you will never notice. I didnt take pictures of that yet. tomorrow or the next time I update. I think this weekend is going to entail re-tensioning my back stays, they flop around when the AC is on and my Main and Fore Stays have developed a slight sag. Very mild tension on both top masts at the heads relieves the sag but introduces additional sag in the back stays. It shouldn't take to long but will be easier now than later.

I think also I may look into some different belay pins, the ones Construco provided just look out of scale to me. I think the length may be ok but the thickness seems overly fat. They scale out at 20" O.A. with about 11" above the pin rail. The fattest part though is about 4.75" thick. I may have spaced them to closely, nothing to do about that now though.

belay-pins.thumb.jpg.bed58cc537623eb645f6c7421e93a3d3.jpg

 

Pictures or it didnt happen!

Driver-Boom-03.thumb.jpg.03c9ed2880a5f281aae967d9fb119429.jpgDriver-Boom-04.thumb.jpg.2136568aceaeac2b794fb9872cc03139.jpg

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You might even give some thought to metal pins, Sam.   I bought some that do look better (more in scale) but they do need painting.   I think I got them from Model Expo or Ages of Sail.  I bought the brass not the cast white metal.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mark, Vossie, I will check those out.

I kind of bleeped over the metal pins at Model expo. The big question is will they fit in my pre drilled rails.

Sam

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mark thanks for the thought. That was more me thinking out loud rather than asking you if you can see across 500 miles of the US and measure my pin rails. 😀

I ordered some 8 and 12 mm brass pins from Model Expo. We will see what happens when they arrive. If I really have to I can throw the kit parts in a drill and try to sand them down to a more reasonable diameter.

Sam

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

While you have received some great recommendations for other sources, have you considered modifying the one's you have.

I have this kit on the shelf and I pulled out the belaying pins.

 

If you have a small rotary tool with an adjustable chuck, it shouldn't be beyond the skill you have demonstrated with this kit..

 

Image1.jpg.2c50012de49e13ca6a7737c2b7ec9b88.jpgImage2.jpg.98e0b473adf33e45f80640fe9565bd28.jpgImage3.jpg.acf9e5fc2508d7cd2dbc098c7487b650.jpgImage4.jpg.46b55247b69db9ef553c53015a40f517.jpg

 

Started with a fine file, and finished off with an emory board..

This was real quick, and I could have refined the final result a bit..   I would also add a little stain.

 

TP.jpg.3c8b42f7b6c75b7d1c0ec0069013b49b.jpg

Here is one I made from a tooth pick using the same method.  Might be a bit long for this kit.

Edited by Gregory

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Gregory, that is my fall back position. My schedule is always a bit erratic so at the moment I am looking at off the shelf items. I do like your idea of the dremmel as apposed to the drill motor I was considering. THat would eliminate the crushing of the lower portion of the pins by the jaws of the chuck I think.

BTW, it ALL about the hokey pokey!! :)

 

Sam

Edited by src

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, src said:

The big question is will they fit in my pre drilled rails.

Hi Sam Great looking work.

 

If they are too small for your already drilled holes you can always fill the original holes back in using toothpicks tree nail style Then you should be able to re-drill new holes at the size and spacing you want. After you drape the excess rigging over the pins you will never know where the original holes were let alone how big they were. 

Edited by lmagna

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, src said:

Its been 10 years this month

Glad you like the idea. Makes me feel at least a little useful, instead of only being useful as a bad example as my wife likes to remind me!

 

Still having the vision at all after 10 years is an accomplishment all by its self.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lou,

You (and I) will ALWAYS be bad examples to our Better Half's!!

So I got my brass pins in. ME had 8 and 12mm. The 12 mm are just a tad small but fit the holes. The 8s fall right through unless I rest them on the edge of the hole. I may check out some from Cornwall they have some walnut in 10mm, I am just not really looking forward to VAT. When I bought my cannon barrels they ended being much more expensive than I anticipated because of the overseas taxes as I recall.

 

Belaying-Pin-02.thumb.jpg.9c791136465c7589f38a043542490255.jpg

 

Murphy stopped by for an uninvited extended visit. I have been using Modeler 12's video of Benders technique for tying blocks to yards. In the past when I have stropped my blocks I was using Dullcoat to lock in my knots with good results. It seems to penetrate into the waxed fly tying thread very nicely. However once I started using the technique in the video my knots started failing! I have had to go back and redo every knot related to my Boom and Gaff. Almost every one has failed at least once. I am now soaking them in 50/50 white glue and distilled water. That seems to have solved things. I have one more block to tie a hook to for the Gaff Peak Halyard, that is going to be interesting trying to strop my hook back on without redoing the entire halyard from the tip of the Gaff to the ring on deck. Then I can go and retension my back stays. Murphy, I banish you to the lower reaches of Hades!! LOL!

Sam

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lou, they are about 6 scale inches taller than the kit parts. Not sure if that is more or less accurate height wise. They certainly look better. 

Now cleaning these up to either paint or blacken them. 

Sam

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

5 hours ago, src said:

I am just not really looking forward to VAT

Since you are outside the EU, Cornwall ought to charge you VAT excluded. You could try to buy and stop before you finalise the order to see if you will be charged VAT. If so you can ask them through email why you are charged VAT, as they ought not to do so. So much for the financial advice (being mean I should charge you for it ;) )

 

The larger pin does look more like the kit's, and to me better in scale. You may want to paint or blacken them as you mentioned, that will reduce an important difference between the species, equalise them so to say ... which in turn will make your decision easier

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, SHIPSCAT said:

you are a master builder.

HAHAHAHAHAH!!!! Jo, you should be a comedian my friend! Thanks for that, I needed a laugh. I do appreciate the well intended comment though thank you. 😀 While I am very pleased whith what I have built, I know where the skeletons are and know I can do much better on my next build.

Carl, I will try your trick, I thought all purchases from EU no matter where they shipped had VAT applied?

Size wise they are close to the kits and I will most likely go with them. In my bumbling way I was saying I dont really know how tall a belay pin should be; I have been too lazy to look it up. I will most likely blacken them as there is no other paint on this build. prepping them for either is going to be a chore, has anybody here ever tried putting brass in a bullet tumbler to clean them for blackening? Might be time to take my own advice to others ond go spend some time in the help forums....

 

Sam

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, src said:

has anybody here ever tried putting brass in a bullet tumbler to clean them for blackening?

I don't know if your tumbler system is the same as mine Sam, but mine not only cleans the brass but coats it with a lube to assist in resizing when you get to the reload stage. I think I would be more inclined to clean them with a chemical.

 

If you don't want them to be black and still don't want to paint them you may want to try this formula:

https://www.sciencecompany.com/Patina-Formulas-for-Brass-Bronze-and-Copper.aspx#1

 

With some practice it may give you the brown color you are used to with the wooden pins.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, src said:

I thought all purchases from EU no matter where they shipped had VAT applied

They may apply it, but they shouldn't apply it when shipping abroad, i.e. outside the European Tax Area. It is not a trick, it is your right to be charged without VAT. If you live in the EU as an American you would be charged VAT on your purchases, untill you take it out of the country, where you can get the VAT amount returned through customs (most non EU citizens do not know that) Usually that excludes food as you are normally prohibited to take that on e.g. a plane.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Lou, yes, mine is the same way. I figure I would have to clean the bowl out with denatured alcohol and then soap and water. Then use Some #60 sand from our sand blaster at work. I don’t think corncob or walnut husks would do it. I have not had good luck with just a chemical dip for cleaning, I have had better results with an abrasive cleaning followed by soap and water then an acid like vinegar to get the last of the impurity’s off. Even then small parts have never really come out the way I would like. 

Carl, that’s good to know because at some point better half and I are supposed to take our “real” honeymoon to Ireland. 

 

Sam

Edited by src

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sand blasting sand should do a great job even though it may be a little harsh on your polisher as well. An extra pIus is that you can get it from work!:D I kind of wonder how Kitty litter, or what ever you may call it where you live, would do? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, src said:

HAHAHAHAHAH!!!! Jo, you should be a comedian my friend

Hello Sam

Well I am pleased I made you laugh but I stand by what I said.

Carl is correct, if you order from the UK they should deduct the VAT before they invoice you, that is if the cost includes the VAT if not on the invoice in the VAT part should read 00.00.

 

Jo.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
×
×
  • Create New...