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HMB Endeavour 1768 by Cabbie - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - Kit Fiddle

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Ok, Ok, you lot,calm down. I know that you have been clamouring for another Endeavour build, so I am going to

do one for you. ( with a lot of help from everyone, i hope) Which is lucky for me because thats what I really want to do.

The Syren will have to sit on the shelf a bit longer.


The reason for calling it a kit fiddle is that i don't really know what I am going to do or how to do it.

I will just fiddle with it until i get the look  I want.


One thing that I know I am going to do is cut a lot of my own timbers and planks ect.

I have read that the Replica has used Jarrah on the hull planking below the wales, and and Oregon Pine

used above the waterline. The hull will be left unpainted, I hope, if my planking is good enough.


This is another learning build for me as such i want to try spiling, and bending the hull planks and

just to see what ends up happening.


I have plenty of jarrah, and a lot of Kauri lining boards that I will use for the decks instead of

the oregon.


One look that i do like on some models, is the stripey lines of the bigger ships with the constrast

between the wales and planks, something that I want to do here, if i can.


Something that I do not like at all is the red paint that is used. I really hate it. Therefore, there will not

be much painting done except for the blue that is used. (maybe)


I think that it will be done as what i am calling hybrid planked, double planking for the wales and below  and

single planking above. To get the look of the replica as much as possible.


The kit is 20 yrs old, hence some of the ply is bent and needs some serious blocking, to straighten and

square up.


Enough talk here is a few pics





Kauri and Jarrah


PS it is going to be a slow build, which is good, because i am a master procrastinator.


Hooroo Chris


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Hi Chap,

Where did you get your Kauri from?

I think that your build will be EXTREMELY interesting using Native New Zealand timber!!

(I guess you will "Re-Saw" your material? Hull or Deck?)

I am picking Deck? (Close Grained, light color and very Hard!!)


Have been thinking about Native timber selection in the past, but, how to mill it without waste? I have some planks of Kauri but are in my ceiling space to facilitate "Crawl Way" for light maintenance, Etc in between Roof Trusses.


Am now thinking that I should recover and mill.


Most of my timber is Rimu/Matai, good for cabinet work and I also have a few planks of Teak, given to me a few years ago.


I am thinking that the Kauri that you are in possession of is not the 6,000 - 10,000 year old variety, (Swamp Kauri), but more of the 200 year old timber. (Kauri takes a very long time to grow.)


Logging of Kauri is now prohibited, as is most NZ timber, you are very lucky to have this in your possession, as am I!! :) )


(I think that Cook had a bit of a "Chop" regarding NZ Trees with Endeavor repairs, so, appropriate that you choose NZ Native timber.)


I am very interested in how you will mill you Timber without undue waste.



Edited by hof00
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Good Morning Hof

Yes I am hoping that the 2 timbers look good together, something a bit different I hope.

Am I correct Hof, in saying that it is Kauri, the lighter one?.

Interesting to hear that Cook might have put some into the Endeavour


It is left over from kitchen jobs from 20 yrs ago, it was a trend back then to use recycled timbers in kitchens,

The timber was machined to make lining boards 12mm thick to use as door panels in cupboard doors.

It is amazing to see the size and quality of timbers that were used to construct buildings in the early days.

Some of the Oregan that has been reused, was, as my machinist mate says it, "its like cheese you could eat it".

It was very fine, straight grained, and no knots


The Kauri is going to be used for the decks, and the hull planking above the wales, which I am hoping

to do as single planking. I might use some below the wales to get the stripy look I like.

Mostly below the wales will be the Jarrah as 2nd planking, and I am going to try and use

radiata pine for the 1st planking there. I have about 15 1.5 metre lengths of the Kauri LBs


I have a sliding table panel saw to break it down a little bit, but i am going to buy a proxxon

mini saw to cut into planks, after i thickness it to varying widths .


Only time will tell if I am capable of doing what I want.


Hooroo Chris

Edited by Cabbie
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PS Its going to be a slow build between here and Christmas, work is busy, I am still getting organized.

I am waiting for the new AOTS to come out early October to see what they are saying

And after Christmas I have to do a kitchen reno for myself.

BUT there will be some time for modelling.


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Hi Chris


Welcome to the endeavour club.

I built this kit twenty something years ago, your box looks identical to mine, so same age I reckon. When I built it I left everything natural wood except for some blue on the upper part of the sides and stern. I wanted it to be an ornament more than a scale model, and it still holds pride of place on the shelf in my living room. There are pics of it in the gallery on here if you want to check out the finish etc. 




Edited by shipaholic
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Geez and I thought I had an original idea. That's all the painting i was thinking of.

I want to be as scale model correct as i can, but have the look with the timbers i want.

The first planking in this kit looks to be be a bending ply about 2mm thick. It bends easy enough.

But i think it would be tricky to taper the edges. Hooroo Chris

Edited by Cabbie
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Good Evening

A little update, Some of the ply was warped, and bent and it needed a serious build board to

put it in the right shape. I cut the slots for the masts and a rebate for the planks to fit in

along the false keel.


Can any show me how the ship is bolted to a base board through the keel.

I have seen some examples but they don't show totally what is happening.

Can hollow pedestals be bought?


I am getting ready to start glueing bulheads and blocks in place.


A few pics






Thanks Chris

Edited by Cabbie
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Hi Chap,

I can't comment on the warped stuff other than your "Blocks" will most probably  straighten things out. (Clamp and glue your Bulkheads/Keel. Your "Jig looks really robust.)

Pedestals will come much later in your build, after Planking.

So, my thoughts, get everything straight, Blocks inc. to real;ly lock things in and install and Glue your Bulkheads.


Think of this stage as a miniature Joinery project.


Wot comes later is also a miniature joinery project, no straight lines!!


Pedestals are available, pre-drilled`but expensive, (For me anyway. Have to import), in NZ 


Any Help?

Edited by hof00
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  • 4 weeks later...

Good Evening All

Time for an update, not that there is much more to see.

I have blocked in most of the sides of the ship, and have done a lot of the fairing.

And I have nailed the decks in place.


Can anyone tell me about the gunwales. The pieces supplied are 5mm x 5mm,and if I fix them to

the decks, they will lean out from the ship due to the slope of the deck. So I assume that I should

plane an angle on the bottom so that they lean in as per the replica. And I suppose that they should

be faired as well like the rest of the ship?


All comments and advice will be much appreciated. Thanks Chris


A few pics





Edited by Cabbie
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Hi Chris,


Just came across your build here and wanted to offer you words of encouragement, mainly so that I might be so inspired to get off my duff and start back on my Endeavor.  Started the bloody thing back in 03 and kinda hit a mental block on what to do next. Like you,  I have been fighting what to do with the gunwales midships.  I planed at a angle the quarter deck but the waist is still an issue. So your question is a common one.




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Hi Chap,

If I am correct these are bits of 5.0mm X 5.0mm along the edge of the Decks?

From what I get from the instructions is that these are sanded to fair in with the upper Bulkheads.

After the first layer of planking, they get tapered lengthways.


I Laminated mine from 2.0mm X 2.0mm Walnut as this I thought would be easier to form around the edges of the Decks.


Any help?



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Hi Hof, Your right,  with later reading the instructions do say to fair the gunwales with the line of the ship.

And I have decided that i will angle the bottom of the 5 x 5 so that the inside of the gunwales is parallel to

the outside after fairing.


Hi Scott the model is looking good ,but i don't know how you will find time to restart it, as well as start

the Sea Witch, and finish the other one, and do more house renos, but good luck.


From looking at photos I have seen that the top of the gunwales slowly tapers up at the start of the poop deck,

and rises a bit sharper at the bow, and it does the opposite in the other direction to give a long slow curve.

But with a step in the middle. And the wales and planking run parallel to that curve.


I have made the poop deck a bit wider midships so that the gunwales, balusters, and handrails

will all run in the same line along the ship as per the replica. My kit has the waist deck handrail outside the line of

the poop deck handrail.  I hope all this makes sense to people, this is all totally new to me.


For anyone wanting photos to look at here is a few links








This last album has some clearer pics without so many humans in the way sometimes.

Edited by Cabbie
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Hi All,

I think of the Gunwales as a little "Sacrificial" at best as there is a 1.5mm X 8.0mm Walnut "Finishing" that goes over the first layer of planking and the Gunwales/Bulwarks, so, the Gunwale material might get a little thin but will be covered up.


In saying so, the "Bevel/Tape"r is important and the Bulwarks get level when they are tapered. (File across the Deck.)

If you chamfer to the Bulkheads, I reckon you can't go too wrong, it seems to "Flow" a bit.


Anyway, I'll post some photos of my efforts soonish.


(Have had to re-do the Fore Deck Planking as cut through the 0.5mm material, might be a blessing in disguise.)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Good evening all

Time for a little update, Poop deck is planked but not finished.

I couldn't help myself, I had to put some poly on to get a better idea on how it was looking.

I think that the colors and caulking have come up pretty good. I don't like the caulking looking too obvious.

Waterways will go on next, then do the other two decks.

I have tried to copy the replica deck, just going by  photos. I think that it is

reasonably close to it.


Now to see if i can put some photos up to show.




Edited by Cabbie
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Good morning Andrew, Michael and Canute, thanks for the likes and comments.


The decking is recycled Kauri, a New Zealand wood, and the waterways are to be Jarrah 2mm wide strips, a West Aussie wood.

The caulking was supplied courtesy of a Neocolor ll water soluble, wax pastel, applied to one edge. Which

actually looks better than it does in the photos.

Thanks Chris

Edited by Cabbie
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  • 2 weeks later...

Man, it takes time doing anything on this build.

It has taken a week, to take photos, to show the waist deck planked,

But in the mean time the fore-castle deck has been planked, and the waterways

have had the hot water treatment, and bent into place. I will

glue them in tomorrow.

Thanks Chris





Yes Ok I will admit it the water ways are fake, they don't have any shape

to them. But they look the part.

Edited by Cabbie
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Hi Scott thanks for looking in.

No heroics around here, that is 2 pieces each side being bent.

I tried to cut them from wider pieces, and put a couple of joins in,

but it needed a scroll saw to cut, which I don't have yet.

And thanks for the like. Chris

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Good Evening All

A little bit more progress, forecastle deck is planked, and has been

given a coat of poly.

It has been fudged a little bit, so don't look to close.


And I have started fitting the gunwales






I thought that the gunwales would have been relatively quick to do.


Well ha ha ha ha ha, HA, should have known better, very fiddly little things.

Getting angles machined on the bottoms, so that they lean into the ship, and fitting them around the planking.

But I think that I am doing them the hard way.

Oh well good fun anyway.


Here is a pic of me over killing it a bit, using the panel saw to cut an angle on the bottom

of the gunwales.




Hooroo Chris


Edited by Cabbie
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Good Evening everyone

Big day today spent a few hours doing a final fairing, and trueing up the ganwales.

And I marked out the top of the wales. I think that they are close to the right position.

They mostly seem to be parallel to the top of the gunwales.

One good thing I discovered about doing a lot of blocking was that

it makes it easier to hold the ship by putting it in the bench vice.






Lastly this evening I have given a few planks the hot water treatment,

fitted them to the hull, and clamped in place to see what they bend like

Hooroo Chris


Edited by Cabbie
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Help needed please

I am just starting to sort out the first planking below the wales, which I am

hoping to spile? and do as well as I can. Does the garbord plank, and the cardboard template look to be right?

Or do i have the curve too sharp?

All comments welcome

Thanks Chris





Or am I going about it the wrong way?

Also what would be the normal width plank that would have

been used to cut a curved one from.

Thanks Again

Edited by Cabbie
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looks to me like you have the wrong side of your garboard strake tapered. I believe you want the other side tapered, the way you have yours tapered you are going to create a downward sweep, which you don't want. Looking at your picture, you should  taper the top edge of the plank, in your case you have tapered the bottom edge. I hope this explains it clear enough. 

 Your decking looks great.

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Hi Steve

Thanks for looking in. I really want to have a go at spiling and try it here,

where it was going to be covered up.

I have Chuck's Syren coming up next and wanted to improve my skills.

I have to do a good job of the Syren or people might talk.


Before i get going i just wanted to know if i was starting out right.

Thanks Chris

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HI Chris,

I agree with Steve, plank from the main wale down.

The first plank to the keel is the Garboard plank.

Are you planning to have a rabbet on the stem ? where the planks run into ?

I only did this on the 2nd planking layer.


Let the planks lay(go) where they want to wrap on the hull, otherwise they will twist and (I) got into a bit of problem in this area until I got them back on track.


Good that you want to practice the spiling and steelers ?

On the second layer, it will look a treat.



Dave R

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Hi Dave Thank You

I am waiting until i get my copy of AOTS before i do anything up top.

I want to see how, what I have done, compares to it. My first planking is actually radiata pine,

and it is flexible stuff especially when wet. So I am thinking

that it will bend, along with some spiling, to where I want it to go.

Its a learning exercise, just to see what happens when i do something.

Cheers Chris


And yes Dave I faired back the whole of the bow blocking, to leave the

narrow strip sticking out that will form the rabbet.

I will fine tune its shape after the first planking.

Edited by Cabbie
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