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Charon Boatman of the river Styx by bensid54


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Builder: Bensid54

Engineer: AEW 

 

I've started another head as you can see in the pictures, I've got an outline of what I'm going to make in my head and hope to start it this weekend. It will begin with his torso from there I'll build and mount his movable neck because those are his only moving parts, the rudder will come into play once I start building the boat.

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Builder: Bensid54

Engineer: AEW

 

My art ability could be comparable to that of your average soap dish, which translates into no talent. What is in the pictures is the start of the Ferryman and what I want to know is do you think the proportions are correct? I plan on using dowels etc. to round out his limbs and keep in mind everything except his face will be under a cloak so he doesn't have to be perfect. Another question is how should his stance be? Should he stand with his feet together or should the be apart as in braced to paddle? I'm thinking to have his feet slightly apart because he won't be rowing very fast. All input and opinions are welcome, thanks in advance.

 

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I would imagine that even the Ferryman of the Underworld would need to brace against wave motion - after all, it wouldn't be very dignified for him to be falling over all the time.

But I would also think that his cloak would hide his feet/sandals.

CaptainSteve
Current Build:  HM Granado Bomb Vessel (Caldercraft)

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Another idea for a boat- a Venetian Gondola. They are pretty creepy as is and are specifically designed to be rowed (not poled or paddled) with the gondolier standing up. Designs are readily available. The heavy figurehead at the bow balances the weight of the gondolier in the stern. The boats are made deliberately asymmetric to offset the turning effect of the gondolier always rowing on one side.

 

Roger Pellett

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Work on the arms now, I've grooved them both to fit the servo horns one level the other 15 degrees. The reason one is 15 degrees is because his left arm has to cross over his chest then his elbow will be bent to make up the rest of the distance. The right arm will have a free pivoting elbow but the left elbow will be pinned or set screwed to not bend once I have the final setting. When I make the hands the right one will have the ability to spin and pivot whereas the left one will only be able to spin. Next I will be machining the servo horns to fit the shoulders.

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Charons friend that will reside in the bow of the boat. This skeleton came with three sets of hands so I'm debating about rebuilding Charon to work with one of the pairs of hands. So far the mechanics have been troublesome so hopefully the electronics can be sorted out, if not there is always plan "B" which I know can work.

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From what I've seen so far, you can get past, "troublesome mechanics".

 

Bob

Every build is a learning experience.

 

Current build:  SS_ Mariefred

 

Completed builds:  US Coast Guard Pequot   Friendship-sloop,  Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard,   Spray,   Grand-Banks-dory

                                                a gaff rigged yawl,  HOGA (YT-146),  Int'l Dragon Class II,   Two Edwardian Launches 

 

In the Gallery:   Catboat,   International-Dragon-Class,   Spray

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Thanks Bob and you are right a difficult hurdle has been cleared. The electronics work and this is so nice because between Charons Electrical Engineer and myself (the later doing the least) we spent in the neighbourhood of around eight hours just getting this thing programmed to work. Now time for the video!

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Hi Ben, you'll have to start feeding that passenger soon, they're nothing but a bag of boners ;)  :)

 

Great to see you've sorted the electrics.  A question though.  i don't recall if this will be a floating/working model.  If so, how will you get the oars to lift out of the water on the forward stroke so that it doesn't counteract the after stroke (propelling forward)?  If it is a working static, won't be an issue.  I am sure you have some clever system worked out with Arthur.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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Ahhh! that makes sense, thanks Arthur.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Builder: Bensid54

Advisor/ Electrical Engineer/ Patient person: AEW

 

Scrapping the first set of arms and will be starting on the replacement arms. I predrilled the elbows without realizing they need to be drilled at 120 to 130 degrees instead of the 90 degrees that I drilled them, so they are now scrap plastic. The reason I'm using Nylon over wood or metal is I think Nylon will give a bit of flex at the elbows and I think that will better represent the properties of ligaments and joints on the average person.

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I need to find pictures of wrecked and beached wooded boats. I want the hull to appear weathered, beaten and something neglected so close up shots of beached or wrecked boat sides would be good. I have a picture in my mind how I want it to look based on the look that you see with Viking ships. Broken boards that are poorly repaired would be part of the look I'm after too.

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Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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I need to find pictures of wrecked and beached wooded boats. I want the hull to appear weathered, beaten and something neglected so close up shots of beached or wrecked boat sides would be good. I have a picture in my mind how I want it to look based on the look that you see with Viking ships. Broken boards that are poorly repaired would be part of the look I'm after too.

 

Try these:

 

http://www.shutterstock.com/s/derelict+boat/search.html

http://www.alamy.com/stock-photo/wrecked-wooden.html

http://www.gettyimages.com/photos/wrecked-wood-ships?excludenudity=false&family=creative&phrase=wrecked%20wood%20ships&sort=best

http://www.istockphoto.com/photos/wrecked+wood+boat

 

Richard.

Richard

Current Build: Early 19th Century US Revenue Cutter (Artesania Latina "Dallas" - messed about)

Completed Build: Yakatabune - Japanese - Woody Joe mini

Member: Nautical Research Guild & Midwest Model Shipwrights

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Stain the wood a weathered light gray and let dry. Dab rubber cement in spots on the hull and then paint over the whole hull in your next color. When that dries pop the rubber cement off the hull and you should have bare spots and peeling paint. Used it on some structures; works good.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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Ben,

 

Look to the model railroad types also.  They use weathering powders and other trick for wood structures.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Dings and splits would be appropriate in the wood. Just don't get too carried away. ;)

 

Check out this Pan Pastels link: http://www.modelingcolors.com/

 I like them because when you over-spray, they remain in place and don't fade. Most other chalks & powders do.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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Google "derelict boats" and go to images, you will get tons of pictures.

 

Bob

Every build is a learning experience.

 

Current build:  SS_ Mariefred

 

Completed builds:  US Coast Guard Pequot   Friendship-sloop,  Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard,   Spray,   Grand-Banks-dory

                                                a gaff rigged yawl,  HOGA (YT-146),  Int'l Dragon Class II,   Two Edwardian Launches 

 

In the Gallery:   Catboat,   International-Dragon-Class,   Spray

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You might leave gaps between some of the planks, like a dried out derelict, and fill the gaps with clear epoxy.  I'm sure whatever you do it will look great.

 

Bob

Edited by Cap'n'Bob

Every build is a learning experience.

 

Current build:  SS_ Mariefred

 

Completed builds:  US Coast Guard Pequot   Friendship-sloop,  Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard,   Spray,   Grand-Banks-dory

                                                a gaff rigged yawl,  HOGA (YT-146),  Int'l Dragon Class II,   Two Edwardian Launches 

 

In the Gallery:   Catboat,   International-Dragon-Class,   Spray

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