HMAV Bounty by PriceMachine&Design - 1-64 POF

[PriceMachine&Design]

Hello , thought I would share this here since its all your fault im doing this , too much inspiration on this web site, thanks...I think. After spending the last month or so off and on completing a stern replacement for a model I had bought at auction years ago that needed a complete rebuild, what was I thinking?, i have decided tentatively that my time might be better spent doing what I really want to do which is a POF ship.This would be a first POF for me and depends on whether I can find the Hahn or other plans available.I had purchased the Mamoli kit, which is very nice, to help refit the ship and thought I could do a little better on the stern and quarters than what's supplied, everything else in the kit is really very good. So my plan so far is to scratch build the hull and use what fittings I can. Recently a friend gave me a large pile of English boxwood (!) so im thinking swiss pear and boxwood mostly, I do also have some gaboon ebony also for trim. Here are some photos of the stern to get started......some where in those boxes of wood is the rest of the ship hopefully.

[PriceMachine&Design]

Well I had to figure out how to get useable lumber out of those boxes of odd shaped cutoffs, I've not done that much woodworking since the 80's having worked mostly in metal the last 25 years so im rusty and have forgotten a lot of tricks.I found this one on youtube and it works great.Had to make an indicator holder for my little saw I bought way back then, a maple carrier board and a zero clearance throat plate, buy some tape and off to the races. This tape is only 10 bucks for 42"s and it STICKS, I use L thinner to clean up.

So you start by getting a flat edge on your work piece, sanded,jointed or sawn, attach it to the board and zero your indicator and make a first pass, there after just add the saw kerf and desired thickness.....I've been able to cut as thin as 10 thou using this. It will work until I have my little bandsaw back online and tuned up but I think this might work better anyway....and I still have all my digits

Edited November 4, 2015 by PriceMachine&Design

[lionfish]

Well I had to figure out how to get useable lumber out of those boxes of odd shaped cutoffs, I've not done that much woodworking since the 80's having worked mostly in metal the last 25 years so im rusty and have forgotten a lot of tricks.I found this one on youtube and it works great.Had to make an indicator holder for my little saw I bought way back then, a maple carrier board and a zero clearance throat plate, buy some tape and off to the races. This tape is only 10 bucks for 42"s and it STICKS, I use L thinner to clean up.

So you start by getting a flat edge on your work piece, sanded,jointed or sawn, attach it to the board and zero your indicator and make a first pass, there after just add the saw kerf and desired thickness.....I've been able to cut as thin as 10 thou using this. It will work until I have my little bandsaw back online and tuned up but I think this might work better anyway....and I still have all my digits

thats a really cool idea, my step father has a table saw and a bunch of raw apple wood, gives me some ideas

[PriceMachine&Design]

It does work really well for small odd stuff and keeps your fingers away from the blade. Its actually 42 feet ,not inches, of tape for 10 bucks which is hard to beat compared to the other double sided tapes out there. Im using it on my mills also rather than a vacumn  table which is iffy on the small parts, one caveat is if your milling through a part like the window frames its best to use the glued up or another work holding method as the glue from the tape likes to ride along on the end mills.There are 3 grades of carpet tape I've found , plastic, cloth and fiberglass being the most expensive but much stickier and its also easier to remove by pulling up the glass weave then clean with some L thinner.

The pieces I've cut so far have been slabs big enough for machining the stern parts and they were coming off the saw with only a thou or so variance in thickness and a surface finish that only needed a very light quick sanding, a new blade is good insurance for this.

This boxwood is not fully seasoned yet but I've been microwaving the stock a bit after sawing and so far it seems to work fine with these small pieces, im a little impatient when it comes to watching things dry LOL.