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Julie Mo

America's Cup UK Challenger Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35

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14 hours ago, Julie Mo said:

Been doing a lot of CAD work trying to find the key to the city.  This is one part 3D, one part one-line perspective of how the S130 setup might look.  Still a lot of work left to be done.

 

Dark blue lines are vertical in the cockpit and helmsman pit.  Green lines represent horizontal edges and breaks between deck finishes.  The brown box is a sub-pit for the 60" wheel.  There would be a raised wood wrap around both the helmsman pit and cockpit.

 

Believe it or not, the squares just before entering the companionway represent two more companionways that go down to the lower level.  Please don't ask me if I am going to recreate those stairs.  I've already committed the rest of my life to this. :rolleyes:   

 

 

Hi Julie

 

Nice hi-tech way to approach the project.   Not sure I know exactly what I'm looking at but I suspect this is your CAD drawing of the S130 cockpit ... no changes.

 

Anyway, will be a nice clean layout.    Are you thinking about using their same style of windows?    

 

F

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Here's the S130 cockpit blowup of the CAD section I drew up above:

spirit-130-deck_cutaway_03.jpg

The raised wood surround isn't drawn up in CAD but would be used in the model. 

 

As for the windows, I really like the flush deck windows but I'm not so sure about the side windows.  It would seem more aesthetically pleasing to have windows on the front, too, and for the windows to be wider and fewer.

 

On another note, I added 4# of shot as ballast.  It doesn't seem enough weight.  It would have been desirable to get the weight into as much as of the keel as possible but the moveable centerboard occupies most of that space.  Maybe a trip to pick up another 2#-4# of shot will give the hull a better feel.  But I do like the additional weight.   

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23 minutes ago, Julie Mo said:

Here's the S130 cockpit blowup of the CAD section I drew up above:

 

The raised wood surround isn't drawn up in CAD but would be used in the model. 

 

As for the windows, I really like the flush deck windows but I'm not so sure about the side windows.  It would seem more aesthetically pleasing to have windows on the front, too, and for the windows to be wider and fewer.

 

On another note, I added 4# of shot as ballast.  It doesn't seem enough weight.  It would have been desirable to get the weight into as much as of the keel as possible but the moveable centerboard occupies most of that space.  Maybe a trip to pick up another 2#-4# of shot will give the hull a better feel.  But I do like the additional weight.   

Windows ... That's what I was hoping you'd say. 

 

More like this maybe?

5968ff21df6c5_MWSnap1932017-07-1413_26_38.jpg.c6e9658a05a510774a36484aa9655cdd.jpg

Is this going to be a sailing model?

 

F

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If you mean RC model, no, it will be a dust collector. :rolleyes: 

 

Where I'm struggling is with the classic J and the modern raised cabin deck.  The raised cabin shouldn't obstruct the view of the helmsman, at least not for a racing boat, but with the almost full keel, it could only compete in the J Class.  There's an F Class deck that better matches with the aesthetics

3934447_20140925015906807_1_XLARGE.jpg&w

But there is no raised cabin and I kind of like that look, like in your drawing.  Then we're back to clashing aesthetics. 

 

I'm definitely going to do the lowered deck for seating and at the helm.  Where I go from there, time will tell.

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As long as you keep a free view from the "wheel pit" you can make it as high as you want. Furthermore, that dip in the deck doesn't need to be as deep as the bottom of the boat ... else you give the helmsman a crate to stand on ;)

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1 hour ago, Julie Mo said:

If you mean RC model, no, it will be a dust collector. :rolleyes: 

I was guessing it was going to be a sailing model because you mentioned adding shot ballast.    Maybe I missed something there as my "dust collectors" don't require ballast and they work VERY well in that regard.   ;)

Frank

 

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14 hours ago, cog said:

As long as you keep a free view from the "wheel pit" you can make it as high as you want. Furthermore, that dip in the deck doesn't need to be as deep as the bottom of the boat ... else you give the helmsman a crate to stand on ;)

Sometimes you need a step ladder...  I've been at the helm of boats that provide an amazingly free view and some you need X-ray eyes.  Nothing worse than that boat you are trying to miss running into suddenly disappears behind a raised deck or genoa.

13 hours ago, albergman said:

I was guessing it was going to be a sailing model because you mentioned adding shot ballast.    Maybe I missed something there as my "dust collectors" don't require ballast and they work VERY well in that regard.   ;)

Frank

 

I guess it's confession time, Frank.  I am an addict.  A sailing addict.  Since I can't feed my addiction with the good stuff, I'm doing it through modeling and I want that boat to feel bottom heavy just in case a stiff breeze blows in and...  See there I go again.  Last night I spent several hours perusing Yachtworld and found me a gorgeous Little Harbor 44.  Next thing I was wondering is how long it would take to sell the house. :rolleyes:  

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Don't encourage me, Per!  I'm this close to calling a realtor! :rolleyes:

 

Now back to reality...

DeckWdwrk_005.jpg

The S130 deck plan scaled well. 

DeckWdwrk_006.jpg

The "T" piece on the right is the floor of the cockpit.  The other one is at the seat level.  I had nothing to cut horizontally through the frame.  Dremel saw blades on order.

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5 hours ago, Julie Mo said:

Don't encourage me, Per!  I'm this close to calling a realtor! :rolleyes:

Oh my ... I found that 44 too and what a beauty!   I see why it appeals.   Is the house listed yet?

 

Ah well, fun to dream.  

 

OK, carry on with the J boat.

 

Frank

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Have you ever sought out a solution but drew a blank all the while knowing the answer is right in front of you?  That's been my last 48 hours.  I knew I had a way to cut into the frames of the hull to allow for the modifications but drew a complete blank.  I get up at 7 this morning, walk into the workshop, look around and then the light bulb turns on.

DeckWdwrk_007.jpg 

If it's good enough for guitar inlays, it should be good enough for modeling.  The bit is 1/8" diameter.  I have bits that go to 1/32", if needed.

DeckWdwrk_008.jpg

I was doing this by eye so I started out with light passes.

DeckWdwrk_009.jpg

Rough work complete.

DeckWdwrk_010.jpg

From here I used the edges of the plywood as a template to finish the routing.

DeckWdwrk_011.jpg

Next is to cut out the seating in the crew cockpit.  I will have to add a brace at the bow end to support the deck and foot well of the cockpit, then rout that out.

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Took you some time to recall what's in your toolbox ... :huh: I would have bought the tool, to find out I already had it !!! :wacko:

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I added a brace for the crew cockpit and routed it out to accept the seating.  Still have to rout the brace deeper between the seats.

DeckWdwrk_012.jpg

In the photo below, at the forward edge of the cockpit sole there is nothing underneath the plywood.  That's next on the to do list.  Should the cockpit be built outside the hull and inserted or built as part of the hull?

DeckWdwrk_013.jpg

DeckWdwrk_014.jpg

Still lots left to do here but it's been fun doing something creative.

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, donrobinson said:

Looking good Julie. Is that a actual router or an attachment for your rotary tool? Either way it looks like it would come very handy.

Don, it's a plunge base for a Dremel tool.  Turns the Dremel into a mini router.

8 minutes ago, cog said:

Took you some time to recall what's in your toolbox ... :huh: I would have bought the tool, to find out I already had it !!! :wacko:

Yes Carl, I too am afflicted with that condition. 

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Any room left on that 44, an escape to sea seems in order. Forgot to comment on your masterful router prowess. A very crisp job, Julie.

 

Considering your question about the cockpit (strange word), I would expect it to be part of the hull, compared to fitting it afterwards as a loose item. As an integrated part it will give strength to hull itself, where it is weakened to make the space for the pit. In the end it is up to you, keep in mind how you want to finish the deck etc around the the pit

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7 hours ago, cog said:

Any room left on that 44, an escape to sea seems in order. Forgot to comment on your masterful router prowess. A very crisp job, Julie.

 

Considering your question about the cockpit (strange word), I would expect it to be part of the hull, compared to fitting it afterwards as a loose item. As an integrated part it will give strength to hull itself, where it is weakened to make the space for the pit. In the end it is up to you, keep in mind how you want to finish the deck etc around the the pit

Carl, you have to stop egging me on about selling the house and buying a sailboat.  I'm very weak willed when it comes to that, you know.  All common sense drains from my brain with vortex-like force.  And there is no cure because it's in my heritage.  My last name is derived from the Gaelic words "Muir" (Sea) and "Cearbach" (Skilled).  See?  I'm sea-skilled. :rolleyes:

 

Thank goodness you distracted me back to the model.  We're on the same page with the crew and helm cockpits.  This morning I glued some balsa filler in the areas where the pits will be.  I'll be heading back soon to rout them out and then I'll glue in wood planks.  For the trim, I'm going to take a stab at making laminated pieces that will rise above the deck.  Now I have to get away from the computer so Yachtworld doesn't suck me in again. 

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When the mind's door opens to solve a problem, one realizes the solution can be applied to other problems.  This time the problem was how to cut the thin plywood accurately without a scroll saw.  The router came into play again.

DeckWdwrk_018.jpg

By using a 3/64" diameter bit, I was able to easily cut the curve of the raised deck.  1/2" foam board saves the bit from needless wear and makes cutting easier.

DeckWdwrk_017.jpg

Not CNC accuracy but close enough to the line to leave little work for the fine tuning.  I switched to a 1/32" diameter bit and cut the first glass out of the oval forward of the raised deck.  Then I realized if the glass will be flush with the deck planking, I need to return to the drawing board and design a solution that will accomplish the flush appearance.

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5 minutes ago, cog said:

At least you can look up ;) Nice solution, cutting with the router

 

(What about that 44?)

Thanks, Carl.  As for the 44, Yachtworld, for some strange reason, crashes Firefox repeatedly.  I think the boat gods are telling me something - "If you can't afford to buy, you better fly!"

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2 hours ago, Julie Mo said:

When the mind's door opens to solve a problem, one realizes the solution can be applied to other problems.  This time the problem was how to cut the thin plywood accurately without a scroll saw.  The router came into play again.

 

By using a 3/64" diameter bit, I was able to easily cut the curve of the raised deck.  1/2" foam board saves the bit from needless wear and makes cutting easier.

 

Not CNC accuracy but close enough to the line to leave little work for the fine tuning.  I switched to a 1/32" diameter bit and cut the first glass out of the oval forward of the raised deck.  Then I realized if the glass will be flush with the deck planking, I need to return to the drawing board and design a solution that will accomplish the flush appearance.

Looking good Julie.    Will you be planking this deck at some time?

 

Frank

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"Thanks, Carl.  As for the 44, Yachtworld, for some strange reason, crashes Firefox repeatedly.  I think the boat gods are telling me something - "If you can't afford to buy, you better fly!"

Ah but there is an alternative for that. Not my taste but it'll do the flying part ;)

 

If it must be flush with the deck planking, you make it so it will rest on the plywood, and have the deck planks run against the glass. You will need a "kit"or rubber band to seal the glass from letting through water by the side/bottom/top to finish it, at least in reality

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2 hours ago, albergman said:

Looking good Julie.    Will you be planking this deck at some time?

 

Frank

Some time?  Yes.  But when depends on how long it takes me to recreate what's in my mind's eye.  Right now I see mahogany framing for the raised cabin.  The challenge here is to determine how many frames there should be and then building them so as to recreate the look of the S130 raised cabin.  The plan is to at least build the upper level interior and if that's successful to build the lower level saloon. 

1 hour ago, cog said:

If it must be flush with the deck planking, you make it so it will rest on the plywood, and have the deck planks run against the glass. You will need a "kit"or rubber band to seal the glass from letting through water by the side/bottom/top to finish it, at least in reality

Yet another challenge set before me.  Masochism must be in my blood. :rolleyes:

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1 hour ago, Julie Mo said:

Some time?  Yes.  But when depends on how long it takes me to recreate what's in my mind's eye.  Right now I see mahogany framing for the raised cabin.  The challenge here is to determine how many frames there should be and then building them so as to recreate the look of the S130 raised cabin.  The plan is to at least build the upper level interior and if that's successful to build the lower level saloon. 

Yet another challenge set before me.  Masochism must be in my blood. :rolleyes:

I was only asking because I thought you might want to have it down before you make your cabin.    No doubt the planking could just as easily be cut to butt against it after the fact.

 

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